Well, I did it... I waxed my pistol.


October 21, 2003, 04:12 PM
I picked up my FEG today, and at the edge of the grips, I saw --

RUST!!! :uhoh:

So, I did a full wiping down ro remove the rust, applying oil liberally. Then, after it sat for a while, I waxed it just like I'd wax a car. I guess we'll see how it turns out. :confused: I was lucky to catch it early, though -- there wasn't even any pitting.

What really gets me stumped is wondering how the rust formed in the first place. I wipe down my guns every night, whether I've handled them or not, with a silicone gun cloth. Apparently that's not enough for the blued FEG, but the epoxy-finish Browning is still just fine. :confused:

I'll let you all know how it turns out.


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October 21, 2003, 04:42 PM
Waxed? :scrutiny: I've not heard of anyone waxing their firearm...what kind did you use? Did you just wax the external frame & slide? How did you wipe/buff off the excess?

Brian Williams
October 21, 2003, 04:50 PM
I have used rennesance (sp) wax and good old Johnson's paste wax. Rub some on and into the finish with a piece of old T shirt and then just buff it in, the thinner the coat the better.

October 21, 2003, 05:06 PM
How does it affect the performance?

Old Fuff
October 21, 2003, 05:17 PM
Waxing the pistol's exterior was probably a good idea, but if you waxed over a coat of oil I'm not sure the wax will work like it should.

The choice of which wax is important too. Be sure what you have has something called "carnauba" in it.

Wax is especailly good on polished blue and plated surfaces. Less so on matt finishes because it's harder to rub out - but it will still work. Wax also won't hurt wood or plastic surfaces like some oils will.

And if you haven't done so, remove the grips and wax the metal underneath them.

Also be sure that there aren't any rust pits left. Once it gets established it will keep going.

Mike Irwin
October 21, 2003, 05:38 PM
Agree with Fluff, waxing over oil is not going to work.

I've waxed my guns with Johnson's Paste Wax for many, many years.

Works like a charm.

October 21, 2003, 05:48 PM
Johnson's Paste Wax
Agree, works well.
Have cleaned and degreased first myself

October 21, 2003, 05:56 PM
Let me clarify. :D

I oiled it up with very thin oil, wiped the excess off, and laid it where the sun and air could get to it and waited for whatever was left to either evaporate or to go wherever it is that oil goes. After it was dry to the touch, I used pure carnauba wax (just like for your car) on a rag to give it a nice thin coat. Wait a few minutes for it to harden (just like on your car), and buff it off.

I think it worked, because it feels different to the touch and still smells like car wax.

As before, updates will follow. ;)


October 21, 2003, 05:58 PM
Don't most of these waxes have mild abrasives in them? Wouldn't that be harmful to the blueing?


Mike Irwin
October 21, 2003, 06:06 PM
Don't know about car waxes and abrasives (but with today's soft clearcoats, I'd hope not), but I do know that Johnson's Paste Wax has no abrasives.

October 21, 2003, 06:07 PM
Actually, Steve, if you use a modern paste wax, there should be no abrasives.

Abrasives USED to be in waxes, but that was in the good ol' days, before clearcoats.


Standing Wolf
October 21, 2003, 06:14 PM
I oiled it up with very thin oil, wiped the excess off, and laid it where the sun and air could get to it and waited for whatever was left to either evaporate or to go wherever it is that oil goes.

The oil doesn't go anywhere. A microscopically thin film of it remains on the metal, which is why we oil guns. Whether it will weaken the wax remains to be seen.

October 21, 2003, 07:32 PM
I collect nickel Smiths and use Flitz on all of them. Have used car wax on my shotguns also.

October 21, 2003, 07:39 PM
Wax is great for blued & shiny guns. Great protectant too.

Think about the millions and millions of cars that sit out in the sun, rain & snow year after year and still shine because of that thin coat of wax on them. They get more abused than the majority of guns.

October 21, 2003, 07:43 PM
Due to inherent laziness I have yet to complete some waxing again .. but it is IMO a good protection for external surfaces.

It has been said - correctly ..... even a miniscule film of oil remaining will impair the wax adhesion... probably best to rub over these parts first with some alcohol and then apply wax before getting skin grease (or even sweat - horrors!) on the finish. Then the applied film should be quite durable.

Fumegator ....... ''edge of grips'' ... know what? That is one area to watch real careful ....... seems as tho a small amount of sweat can creep into that small space and stay .. even if you'd think your wipe down with the cloth was good. I have learned that after a range session (and carry particularly) ... good to remove grips and ensure the wipe get under grips too. My ole blued snub has suffered a bit just a fraction above grips, near cyl release ..... that from body sweat creeping unbeknownst to me.:(

October 21, 2003, 07:47 PM
Don't most of these waxes have mild abrasives in them? Polish has abrasives, wax should not.

Be careful to use wax and not polish. It's not always apparent. Read the labels carefully. A clue is when it says "safe for clearcoat" it should contains no abrasives.

This applies to your car also. When I was a teenager, I literally polished the paint off my first car because I didn't know the difference.

October 21, 2003, 09:18 PM
I've been using car wax for years and have had good luck with it. About a year ago, I switched to RENAISSANCE Microcrystalline WAX POLISH after reading about it in the Rifleman. It works very well on blued & SS guns.

Of course, the first cylinder full gives off a little smoke.

Check this site:



October 21, 2003, 09:26 PM
Whenever I set up any of my guns for long term storage, i always blast it with a liberal dose of Boeshield T-9 which is essentially a lubricant/wax in a solvent carrier. When the solvent dries, a thin film of wax is left for protection. Do this religiously now after a relatively new 1187 rusted on the side of the receiver about a couple of years ago.



October 21, 2003, 10:20 PM
hksw ... I have tried most things and some are good ... but I cannot resist trying out one not previously come across .. this is one such and i have ordered some to try.:)

October 22, 2003, 02:30 AM
Spray-on wax. Kewl! :cool: Remember to give us a range report, Chris. :)

I haven't carried a blued gun since I discovered wax, but it works great on my Dillon press.

October 22, 2003, 01:15 PM
Here's another spray on lubricant/wax that does the same thing. I've used Eezox for several years now and highly recommend it.



October 22, 2003, 03:21 PM
I also use "non-abrasive" car wax on mine.

October 22, 2003, 05:08 PM
Heh.... "Waxed my pistol" sounds so dirty.

October 22, 2003, 06:15 PM
I've been meaning to try out a can of Eezox but am still using up my Boeshield (8 years now).

October 22, 2003, 11:40 PM
What I want to know is, how did your pistol grow so much hair that it needed to be waxed in the first place???

:what: :eek: :evil: :p :D

October 23, 2003, 02:34 PM
Waxing your guns.......this is the first I ever.........who'd a thunk........why...but......are you sure......I never.........hmmmmmm

Smoke shakes his head and exits stage left not sure what to think.

C. H. Luke
October 23, 2003, 06:41 PM
"I always blast it with a liberal dose of Boeshield T-9....."

Boeshield works Great! It has stopped the "perspireation" rust of the
Bo-Mars on my 1911's dead in its tracks. Stuff lasts too.......

October 24, 2003, 05:28 PM
I wax my old surplus rifles, at least the ones I don't shoot that often, with Turtle wax. I've had alot less problem with rust since I switched from oil.

October 25, 2003, 02:35 PM
The NRA National Firearms Museum uses Renaissance wax on all of their firearms. An article by the museum curator that I found on the web explained that Reaissance wax is chemically inert, which other waxes are not. A ultra thin coat produces a waterproof barrier that resists damage by fingerprints also. They use Renaissance wax on all smooth surfaces, guns, knifes, leather, et cetera.

I've been using Renaissance wax for years. But recently, I started to use it on guns. What I do, is after cleaning the gun, but before I reassemble it, I give it a thin coat of wax. Then I reassemble it, using Militec-1 on the bearing surfaces, and then after reassembly, I coat the gun with a very light layer of oil.

It works like a champ.

I am never without Flitz polish or Renaissance wax. They are among the two best products of their type around.

I have never found a "hard" wax that buffs out as easy as Renaissance wax. A 7 oz can lasts for years. The key to its use is to use as little as possible. It is better to use several coats than one thick one.

October 25, 2003, 03:37 PM
Been using good old Johnson's paste wax for nigh onta 40 years now with excellant results. Perspiration and water (rain) beads up and rolls off, the blue looks great and best of all, no rust.
Im told that Eskimos in the arctic have been Johnson's waxing their firearms for ions, I got the tip a long time ago from a fellow LEO who worked as an Alaskan State Trooper.
Johnson's paste wax is abrasive free, very inexpensive and a one pound can could last a lifetime. It really works.---------Jed

October 25, 2003, 11:00 PM
Well I just ordered some aerosol BOESHIELD to try also. It was a little cheaper ordering from the manufacturer than Brownells due to shipping. Never thought of "waxing" my guns but I do have some in the safe that I don't shoot and would like to try this product on them.

October 26, 2003, 08:37 PM
Same here QB ... mine arrived Friday ... in fact the ''set'' of that, in a 12oz and a 8.45 oz ''Rust Free'' .... yet to fully evaluate but - does seem to get good reports.

Always searching for the ''ultimate'' .. even tho maybe it does not quite exist!

October 26, 2003, 08:49 PM
Yep its and old method of protecting metals, including firearms.
I still use RIG , heck thats probably what the lump was in my crib. Johnsons Paste Wax was the 2nd yellow label I remember when I my eyes opened. Growing up these were staples around the house. Men got into trouble for stealing the ladies wax for the floors for use on firearms ,and woman got into trouble for stealing the RIG for use on the Iron...the one next to the fireplace...thats before the electricity was strung and one could use a electric iron.
Two products been around a bit, and still work well.

December 5, 2003, 06:31 PM
So why don’t Remington etc market a gun wax?

Old Fuff
December 5, 2003, 06:50 PM
Because their "back East" marketing people aren't into guns enough to have heard about it yet. For that matter most gun users haven't heard about it either.

You'd be suprised (and probably disapointed) if you knew just how little the folks that build and market guns actually know about them. Of course there are exceptions, but the exceptions usually don't have much say-so.

Generally speaking, the smaller the company is, the more actual knowledge the management has.

December 6, 2003, 01:41 AM
That’s a shame, then again, Ford never came out with a car wax. One of these days some smart cookie will market this and get rich. I waxed the inside of my 40-year-old mags and they are much slicker.

December 6, 2003, 08:46 AM
I received my BOSHIELD a while ago and finally have the time to wax my guns and mags. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

December 8, 2003, 08:19 PM
Cleaned, waxed, and lubed (Militec1) 5 of my guns last night....two stainless and three polymer (HK Expert & Elite and a Beretta Storm) They look fantastic. Will see how they hold up after a trip to the range. One thing for sure, after waxing the polymer guns they looked very sharp (I waxed the frames, slides.....everything). I do think I'm going to like Boeshield!!!!

December 8, 2003, 08:28 PM
QB ....... not had my Boeshield that long either. Plenty of guns still await ''the treatment''.

But I am trying something I think can work quite well too .... so just a suggestion for your consideration.

My long standing method for ''whipedown'' has been a cloth heavily impregnated with CLP .

I have now prepared a Boeshield cloth to use for same purpose. This one tho I have given a good soaking, but also ... put it in a Ziplock bag. When used, you can see the ''coating'' going on ..... so seems it could be useful to keep that around as well as useage straight from the can.

December 8, 2003, 10:19 PM
Thanks for the suggestion. I in fact did sort of do the same thing but with some large cleaning patches that I soaked. I have been using a Tuff Cloth but since I really like BoeShield I think I'll do just as you suggested and make a "Boshield" cloth and keep it in a zip lock.

Great idea!!!!!

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