New to forum and reloading, with questions

I joined this forum because 99 percent of the time i search for answers i find it here.

I just got 500 plated bullets in a trade and i was wondering about crimping them since they dont have a groove in them. I have a set of RCBS dies with a roll crimp. Is this what i need or should i get a taper crimp?

Also if anyone could post a picture of what a roll crimp should look like i would be thankful. I have been loading 38spl with 125gr XTPs with 6.5 grains of HS-6 with a crimp that looks enough to hold the bullet but i still get powder residue in the last casing. Thanks.

i didn't see the caliber you are shooting on your post.

LGB

Sorry about that, it is .38spl out of a Smith and Wesson 642

Roll crimp should be fine for a revolver. It won't take much crimp for a .38, just crimp into the side of the bullet lightly.

A profile crimp is another option, but not needed for the .38spl.

Taper crimps are generally for auto pistol rounds.

HS-6 may not be the best choice for the .38spl. It is a very dirt powder untill the pressures get high. It's top fuel in small cases like 9mm and .38 Super.

P.S. Welcome to The High Road.

Thank you. i get greenish colored flakes of powder than will dump into my hand while removing spent brass, is this becasue of a light charge like you said?

I believe so.

Until I get near max loads, I get a lot of unburned powder flakes.

There's just too much room/too little pressure in a .38 for HS-6.

Unique might be a better choice.

There was a thread here within the last two months about 'pet' loads, give it a search, there was a lot of good info on the .38 special.

Lyman #49 shows 125 XTP & HS-6 as follows.

5.6 = 600 FPS - 9,400 CUP.
7.4 = 862 FPS - 16,000 CUP.

Your 6.5 load is probably only getting 750 FPS, low pressure, and incomplete burn.

If you are going to load mild loads like that, you would be better off with a faster powder.

Look at Bullseye, 700X, Titegroup, or AA #2.

If you want to bump it up to normal .38 Spl. velocity, your HS-6 will probably work well, as will WW-231, and Unique.

rc

with the plated bullets tyr not to crimp to hard. a heavy crimp could go through the plating. .38spl usually does not need a heavy crimp anyway. I have had great results using bullseye,aa#2, blue dot and unique in 38spcl.HS-6 is not a good choice for .38spl. save the HS-6 for .45 acp. It works very well in this cartridge with a wide range of bullets.

Thanks for all the answers, looks like the powder was the culprit all along. I think i could get some Clays for the time being would that be a better choice?

Look at a powder speed chart, like the one on reloadbench.com

Look at the powders on the chart in the general vicinity of the powders RCModel mentioned.

I think Clays is an excellent choice. I use only Clays and Titegroup for light .357 loads. I think Clays is the better of the two for light revolver loads.

If your new to reloading be aware that there are several different Clays powders, there is Clays, International Clays, and Universal Clays.

Watch your data closely.

I reloaded 20 rounds today to the maximum .38 load, since the gun is rated for +P i will still be well below the +P load . I will shoot them tommorow and see how it goes. i have a pound and a half of HS-6 and nothing else to use it for.

All the HS Hodgdon powders are hard to ignite. HS-6 is the only one still in production while HS-5 is gone but you can still find some HS-7 on the shelves. I get my best results using a Magnum primer when loading HS-6. I also use it for my .38 Special +P rounds but I won't tell you the charge because it's not in any of the current loading manuals. (it is in some of the older ones) I find it to be very accurate too, especially when loading lead bullets. HS-6 is a good powder because it will generate high velocities while producing less pressure than other powders in it's burn rate range. I'm a big fan of HS-6 but it should be loaded near the top of the charge range and a fairly firm crimp used. (as well as a Magnum primer IMO) If not you will find unburnt powder and it will be a little dirty. Most of the older manuals list a Magnum primer with all the HS powders and that's for manuals as current as 10 years ago. Hope this helps some...

Welcome to thew forum and good luck reloading.

I reloaded 20 rounds today to the maximum .38 load, since the gun is rated for +P

That's an assumption I would never make.

I loaded them to 7 grains, the max is really 7.2 I am still .6 grains below the +P load for the same powder and bullet.