[roc1]

I heard of using peroxide and white vinegar 50/50 solution for lead removal?
Has anyone used this and does it work on handguns like I have read? I was told to be careful on blued guns to protedt the finish? Will it remove rings in the cylinder as well? I am open to any good solution to leading problems as this is the only real drawback to lead bullets.Lead builds up some no matter what and can be a real pain to get out less scrubing really hard. I use the jacketed bullet method down the tube which works ok but would like other ideas as well.The Lewis remover or the lead away cloth take some real work sometimes.
Thanks
roc1

[Dirty Bob]

If I recall correctly, this question was a source of a religious war in a black powder forum, with some saying it was great, and others stating that the peroxide would eat away steel with repeated uses.

I got spooked and have never tried it. Perhaps someone here has some real data for you.

Regards,
Dirty Bob

[Virginian]

Get you some soft gas checks. Shoot ten at the end of a shooting session and no lead. One of the landmark discoveries in my handgun shooting journeys.

[roc1]

Virginian how do you load them? Will the jacket bullets do the same thing or not? I have not used gas checks before do you load them under bullets or by themselves?
thanks
roc1

[armoredman]

I've been told to buy a Chore Boy copper scrub pad, the kind without any added "stuff", cut a piece off, and use in in your slotted tip to scrub after application of solvent.

[DickM]

I've been told to buy a Chore Boy copper scrub pad, the kind without any added "stuff", cut a piece off, and use in in your slotted tip to scrub after application of solvent.

That's what I use, and it's one of the best gun-cleaning tips I ever got. Just be sure that the pad is real copper (Chore Boy brand is) - some of them are copper-coated steel. I find it easiest to wrap the piece of the pad around the right size bore swab, but do what works for you. It's basically a homemade Lewis lead remover, which also works perfectly but costs a good bit more.

[pps]

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l96/pps_2006/Lewisleadremover.jpg

One pass with the Lewis lead remover works for me. Chore boy works just as well.

[snooperman]

I have been shooting and reloading lead bullets in revolvers for decades and have been using the Lewis lead remover for years. If you shoot lead bullets in your revolvers this instrument is a "MUST HAVE" .

[GRIZ22]

I've been told to buy a Chore Boy copper scrub pad,

I don't think the Chore Boy is abrasive enough to cause any damage but I've never found reason to use anything but Hoppe's #9. You just need to let it soak (5 minutes or so) between swabbings followed by a a few passes with a bronze brush. It takes time but is friendlier to your barrel.

[Vern Humphrey]

Has anyone used this and does it work on handguns like I have read?
Yes and yes.

I was told to be careful on blued guns to protedt the finish?

Yes, you need to protect the finish. With automatics, it's simple -- remove the barrel. Leave all the blued parts aside. With revolvers I sometimes put a bit of Johnson's paste wax on the barrel.
Will it remove rings in the cylinder as well?
Rings in the cylinder are mostly carbon, not lead.

[Virginian]

With soft gas checks, you just press the sheet on the charged casing with your thumb before you load the bullet, and it cuts out a perfect check, just like a cookie cutter. I assume the check vaporises and gets under the lead and blows it out with the round, but I don't know; I have never seen any high speed photos. All I know is the lead is gone. Mike Venturino wrote about them some time ago. One of the few useful things from him.
The checked rounds go to the same POI as the unchecked rounds, and all you see is a little more smoke, a little smell, and a little more soot.

[armoredman]

I really have to interject that I was told to buy the Chore Boy, but never needed to, have been lucky that none of my lead loads seem to leave any serious leading behind. :)

[Walkalong]

With soft gas checks, you just press the sheet on the charged casing with your thumb before you load the bullet, and it cuts out a perfect check, just like a cookie cutter. I assume the check vaporises and gets under the lead and blows it out with the round, but I don't know; I have never seen any high speed photos. All I know is the lead is gone.If you are talking about wax gas checks, you are right, they really work. Not only will they eliminate leading, but like you said, they will clean out a leaded barrel as well with a few shots. They really work. A bit of a pain, well, slow, to assemble, but good stuff.

PS: If you are taking about something else, what is it?

[Dirty Bob]

Is this the same thing as a "lube cookie"?

I found a good chapter on wads at the Los Angeles Silhouette Club website, at:
http://www.lasc.us/Brennan_6-5_WadsFillers.htm

They also have a chapter in which the method for making sheets of lube is described. The chapter is at:
http://www.lasc.us/Brennan_5-0_BulletLubes.htm

Table of Contents: http://www.lasc.us/IndexBrennan.htm

Regards,
Dirty Bob

[Virginian]

If you are talking about wax gas checks, you are right, they really work. Not only will they eliminate leading, but like you said, they will clean out a leaded barrel as well with a few shots. They really work. A bit of a pain, well, slow, to assemble, but good stuff.
Yes, wax gas checks. Like I said I only load about 10 out of every 200 or so. I just buy them.

[DAVIDSDIVAD]

Is there anywhere to buy these wax gas check cartridges pre-assembled?

[Deanimator]

Lewis Lead Remover (or equivalent), and if things get really bad, a Tornado. I've only ever had to use the Tornado once, and the Lewis a few times.

[dogrunner]

I don't recall just where I picked up this formula but I've used it with good success and zero damage to either blued or browned muzzloaders...........plus when used in small amounts as a wipe it performs as well or better than several commercial products I've tried.

1/3 rubbing alcohol, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide, 1/3 common liquid hand soap.......mix thoroughly & shake it before applying..........

As I said, zero damage to blued surfaces on my Kodiak double and Remington & Colt copies.........Also worked well with no finish deterioration on a nicely browned Pedersoli long rifle. Great for wiping a crapped up pan & frizzen during a shoot session too.

Bore cleaning consisted of a small amount to flood the bbl's, then wiped & of course oiled well prior to storage.