How can I fit a power cord inside a locked gunsafe?


July 18, 2009, 08:26 PM

I was wondering with people who use drirods or other things that require power to be running the whole time.

How do you manage to get a power cord inside. There's no permanent holes in my gun safe that could fit the head of a power lead inside my safe.

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July 18, 2009, 08:37 PM
mine has a hole in the back.

July 18, 2009, 08:40 PM
How big is the hole?

July 18, 2009, 09:17 PM
a Goldenrod has a plug that comes off the wire so you can fit the wire through a small hole and then reassemble it. I had to drill a hole in mine to put one in - works great.

The Lone Haranguer
July 18, 2009, 09:20 PM
I see no reason why you could not drill one. Use a rubber grommet and perhaps a strain relief bracket where the cord goes in (and emerges through the inside, if the safe has double walled construction), both to prevent chafing/short circuits and to seal the safe from outside air. This may compromise its fire resistance ability to some degree.

Guns and more
July 18, 2009, 10:12 PM
Most safes come with a hole in the back through the steel but not through the insulation.
The hole is big enough for only the wire. Drill the insulation, stick the wire through, and add the male plug. My safe guys mounted the dri-rod under the bottom shelf. It doesn't take up any space and it can't be seen.

July 18, 2009, 11:11 PM
If your safe has a fire rating then it probably uses a heat-activated foam sealant around the door and any pre-existing holes (for electrical cords). Simply drilling a hole for an electrical cord may degrade that fire rating.

July 19, 2009, 07:12 AM
+1 to what everyone else said regarding installation. It's easily a do-it-yourself proposition if the actual steel of the safe has a hole in it (and maybe even if it doesn't, but is thin enough).

Just one thing: I've had a goldenrod in my safe forever, and maybe I have an older model, or the goldenrod was never the very best solution, etc.

At any rate, my safe is on the ground floor of the house, in the morass of humidiity known as South Carolina. The goldenrod by itself is simply not enough here. I also use the canisters of silica crystals that turn color when saturated so they can be dried out in the oven and used again (repeat as necessary).

Anyway, my whole point here is to get some other dehumidifcation solution/apparatus to put inside the safe as well, if only for the purpose of making sure the electronic one is proving effective.

July 19, 2009, 07:37 AM
I'm no expert on safes, so i can't point you to any specific models, but I am certain there are safes that are designed for just that purpose, with a power cord coming out of it and an outlet inside.

Others have pre drilled holes, like a few people have already said.

Ohio Gun Guy
July 19, 2009, 08:37 AM
If you drill a hole, you can get some fire safing / caulking from a commercial caulker, plumber, hvac guy if you know one; to keep the fire rating.

July 19, 2009, 09:36 AM
Just get an Eva-Dry unit and plug it in once a month or so to dry out the media. It works great for mine and no holes.

July 19, 2009, 09:52 AM
If you have to drill a hole in your safe and are afraid it has compromised it's fire protection ability I you could try some fire rated caulk. I use it at work when i have to caulk around duct work that penetrates a fire rated wall. 3M makes it and I have seen it for sale at most hardware stores.

July 19, 2009, 11:59 AM
You can buy fire resistant caulk at Lowes etc. It is used round flues and chimneys.

July 19, 2009, 12:54 PM
I wouldn't waste my time with the fire caulk. I have seen plenty of burned gun safes, both with and without electrical access holes. It doesn't make a difference.

July 20, 2009, 02:39 AM (

This is in the bottom of my safe. There is some sticky tape there to hold it pointed downwards so it naturally curves down so it doesnt poke its head out and touch the guns. (
This is on the outside of my safe to connect it up to a regular power supply.

The connection on the right is the part I had to pull apart to get through the small holes. There is 1 screw to unscrew that pulls it apart. Then there is these other two screws that holds the tiny metal caps on each of the two wires. Then you have the 2 exposed wires in your hand and you feed it through the hole tale first. Then once you have it out you reassemble it.
You may need an electrician to do it depending on local laws.

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