Rust prevention & my toxic sweat


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conw
July 21, 2009, 04:48 PM
Hey guys,

So I got my blued KT p11 back recently, like new from factory with replaced slide and barrel, and I carry with a belt clip. Expected it to hold up fairly well, but it is rusting faster than ever. I do steel wool and car wax every couple days as has been suggested here before, but what are my options? I know about hard chroming, and KT will do it for $30 IIRC, ,but I don't want any more time w/o my only carry gun.

I also know of Wheeler spray and bake finish and Dura-kote, but have heard little about the former and mixed reviews of the latter. I don't need a total solution to rust, just something to make my sweat bead off rather than corrode immediately. Wheeler and Dura are both $30ish, too. Cheaper and easier would be better, even if less permanent.

Anyone know of a home brew solution? I don't even care about refinishing it or not, repeated applications are fine.

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Zerodefect
July 21, 2009, 05:11 PM
Send the slide and barrel off to CCR.

I've found that my Keltec rust as quickly as my 1911's. Can't even mention the world rust at my place, dem's fight'n words.

conw
July 21, 2009, 05:20 PM
Zero - what's CCR?

blakeci
July 21, 2009, 05:31 PM
CCR
Creedance Clearwater Revival- best music ever! J/K:D

conw
July 21, 2009, 05:34 PM
Have You Ever Seen the Rust? my least favorite song!

MikePaiN
July 21, 2009, 05:40 PM
My PF9 slide has never had the slightest hint of rust....it is factory parkerized.
I carry ItW also, there is almost always some moisture from sweat on the gun.

todd_g
July 21, 2009, 06:03 PM
Try Rem Oil, I have been using it for years for cleaning and protecting the finish of all of my handguns and hunting rifles, Rem Oil has teflon in it making water bead off of it, with continuous wipe downs every few days or every week you will never see rust again, also you will not have to worry about sand or dirt sticking to the surface as it will not leave an oily film.

CoRoMo
July 21, 2009, 06:04 PM
conwict...

I remember your thread about the broken ejectors, but was that what you sent it back to KT for? I couldn't find any other thread of yours about the P11's issues other than that one.

Here in Colorado, it never gets as humid as it does where you are. Mine has never even shown a spec of rust as of yet.

conw
July 21, 2009, 09:04 PM
I sent it back because it broke 3 or 4 ejectors. The guy on the phone said it was 99% sure to be a tolerance issue. I wasn't doing anything crazy with it, either. It would break sometimes after 500, sometimes after 150 rounds of WWB.

I wish I had paid them to Parkerize it before I got it back.

Basically it's got very little between my lower back/hip and the finish, if anything. The finish comes into contact with skin, sometimes sweaty, sometimes for hours a day. And it is rusting immediately. Just surface rust, but ugly and I want to prevent it before it starts to get deeper.

I have CLP and Rem Oil, I will try these out after buffing it tonight with 0000 steel wool.

AK103K
July 21, 2009, 09:23 PM
Try Eezox. Theres really nothing better chemical wise for keeping rust at bay.

If you want something a little more permanent, then get it hard chromed.

Fumbler
July 22, 2009, 05:21 PM
If Kel-Tec will hard chrome a slide for $30 then that is your cheapest and best solution for rust prevention.

I don't know what the prices are, but I find it hard to believe that you can get a slide refinished in something like Duracoat for as cheap as $30.

Like I said, hard chrome would be the best way to go. If you don't want to disable your carry gun then you could refinish it yourself with a bake on finish (Duracoat takes weeks to fully cure).

I've refinished a few things with KG Gun-Kote with good success.
All you need is an air brush ($25), canned air ($10), and Gun-Kote in your favorite color ($8). That costs more than the hard chrome, but you could do quite a few slides and magazines with a small bottle of Gun-Kote.
If you don't want to spend that much, just buy a rattle can of bake on finish. The finish won't be as consistent, but would definately be good enough for a carry gun.

You will also need to have your slide sandblasted. I don't know if you have access to one, but some machine shops will do it for you. Just take the barrel, extractor, and firing pin out first.

The process for refinishing with a bake on finish goes like this:
-Strip off all small parts
-Clean slide (brake cleaner)
-Sand blast with aluminum oxide until the original finish is gone
-Clean slide with soap, a nylon brush, and water to make sure you get all the grit out.
-Clean slide with brake cleaner again, but be sure not to touch the slide with your skin or anything that is dirty (I hang the part on a metal wire before the final cleaning so I don't have to touch it)
-Preheat part in oven
-Spray on the finish
-bake following manufacturer's instructions

Zerodefect
July 22, 2009, 06:33 PM
LOLz.

CCR: http://www.ccrrefinishing.com/hg.htm

conw
July 22, 2009, 10:02 PM
Thanks guys, very helpful. For now CLP has been working to keep it at bay, applied daily.

kmullins
July 22, 2009, 10:08 PM
Eezox does work wonders. I thought it was just another snake oil rust preventing gimmick but I'm addicted to it now. It's keep the rust out of a Remington 870 barrel that has a tendeny to get dark after only a few weeks of leaving it to sit. Give it a shot.

conw
July 22, 2009, 10:35 PM
Thanks a lot man. Will do. Where do you order?

kmullins
July 23, 2009, 12:51 AM
I ordered some from MidwayUSA, it was around $4.99 for a 4 oz can. It says to use it very sparingly and it can last a long time.

c919
July 23, 2009, 01:00 AM
So, are you carrying without any holster? Just the KT belt clip?

If so, it would probably be best just to get a good IWB to put a barrier between you and the gun..... and to have the safety of a trigger guard.

stevemis
July 23, 2009, 05:32 AM
I've had good luck lately with CLP. I apply it liberally and let it "bake" for several hours under a halogen light before wiping it down with a microfiber towel.

You could probably heat the pistol up with a hair dryer or leave it in the car on a hot day... I just put the gun on a cardboard box on top of the stove (to elevate it) and turn on the halogen lights in the vent hood. My pistol gets up to about 120 degrees in 20 minutes and will stay there as long as I leave the lights on.

You might want to reconsider steel wool. You're probably leaving tiny pieces of it on the gun and causing rust.

tydephan
July 23, 2009, 10:41 AM
I would agree with changing your method of carry. Get a good IWB holster that provides a barrier between your sweat and the gun.

It would probably be your most immediate option without further modifying the gun or having to be without it for a certain amount of time. Comp-tac's line of holsters have served me well, but they are more pricey than your quoted refinishing price. I paid $80 for my CTAC for my M&P9c. I have a high toxicity level in my sweat as well and this solved all my issues with rusting.

Good luck to ya!

conw
July 23, 2009, 02:46 PM
Steve, thanks. CLP is still working well, will try your method also. I have stopped with the steel wool since the rust is no longer forming. Just using a microfiber to wipe the CLP off.

As far as IWB holsters, I will have to give it some thought. Honestly this method works better than you'd imagine with a good belt, and I don't get my panties in a wad over ADs (get it? my undergarment would have to wad up in a bizarre way to pull the trigger, it was a joke :p). I think I'll go try out some clip-on IWB holsters in a shop though and see if I can still conceal easily in a tank top, etc. This belt clip lets me conceal in anything. Oh, and I am into bodybuilding and my waist size fluctuates a bit...it's on the lower end of the spectrum now, so I can easily fit more into my waistband...LOL.

conw
July 26, 2009, 05:27 PM
CLP seems to do the trick for now. Cheap and easy. If I get an IWB holster it will probably be the Robert Mika clip-on IWB.

John Parker
July 26, 2009, 06:08 PM
Try Rem Oil, I have been using it for years for cleaning and protecting the finish of all of my handguns and hunting rifles, Rem Oil has teflon in it making water bead off of it, with continuous wipe downs every few days or every week you will never see rust again, also you will not have to worry about sand or dirt sticking to the surface as it will not leave an oily film.

I used to oil my 1911 daily with Rem Oil, and it didn't help at all. I wonder why we had such different experiences?

DNA
July 27, 2009, 05:55 AM
Another thing you can try is the dry lubrication sprays with teflon, such as the Liquid Wrench brand of dry lubes. A friend of mine used to carry a blued 1911 that would rust even if he wiped the bugger down every day with oils. The teflon spray worked very well for him and he swore by it after using it. :)

Dan

vanfunk
July 27, 2009, 07:44 AM
Likely a modest contribution, but I think the rubbing with steel wool may make the problem worse. First, the steel wool will remove rust, but it'll also remove finish. Second, "bits" of steel wool are likely to embed themselves in the metal of the slide, which then rusts.

For a long term solution, I think KEl-Tec's offer to hard chrome the slide for $30 is the way to go.

vanfunk

conw
July 27, 2009, 03:00 PM
I think I was off, think HC is likely to be $60. Blued P11 MSRP: $333, HC P11: $390.

They will probably exchange if you pay the difference, would be my guess.

The CLP is working great though...just let it soak every few days for an hour or so then wipe off. I am going to try baking it like someone above said.

If it ever stops working have Rem Oil and Rem Drilube to try too.

M2HB M240
July 28, 2009, 12:59 AM
Eezox is the best CLP that I have found and I have been using it since the 1980's. Breakfree will work well, but not as good as Eezox. Pick the finish you want, I prefer Hard Chrome when available and then I clean all of my guns with Eezox.

hwp
July 28, 2009, 03:41 AM
Breakfree CLP is a great rust preventer.

I would get the slide hard chromed or some other wonder finish applied. A little thing called life gets in the way of daily or even weekly wipe downs of a EDC handgun.

My EDC guns are tools. I have no desire to spend time every day wiping them down.

My two EDC guns are a G23 and SW442. If either needed to constantly wiped down they would be packed with lint from my clothes. Most carry guns should be carried as dry as possible IMO. Most gun nerds use way too much oil.

Jason_G
July 28, 2009, 10:48 AM
Have You Ever Seen the Rust? my least favorite song!

I think this one is more like "Who'll Stop the Rust".

Maybe NP3 (http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm) it if it's worth it to you. Guaranteed against corrosion.

Just another idea. Costs a little $$ though.


Jason

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