[rwhichel]

OK, I have a question for you guys that are loading for the 38-56 win. First a little background. I am the owner of a model 86 Winchester in 38-56 cal. The rifle was originally my grandaddy's in 1902. He was a mounted cavalry trooper in Troop B, 3rd. U.S. Cavalry. He returned from the war,(Phillipine Insurection) in 1902. Upon his return, he was sent to Fort Yellowstone,(Yellowstone National Park) to finish out his hitch. At Yellowstone he was a mounted patrol trooper. His mounts name was "Bingo" and his rifle was my model 86, 38-56 winchester. I am 69 years old and I have had his rifle for many years. Having been used alot with black powder, the bore of the rifle was shot when I got it. I have always wanted to get it fixed. Guess what, I just had it done. Wanting to leave the rifle as original as possible and after a lot of research I decided to have the barrel relined in the original calaber. I now intend to shoot grandpops rifle and even kill a deer with it before I pass it on to my son. I plan to load/reload for the rifle myself. My plan is to load some nice mild (original black powder pressure level) loads with smokeless powder. I have purchased a set of Lee 38-56 dies. I have also purchased some new 45-70 brass. Now for the question. In forming the 45-70 brass into 38-56 do I need to buy a case forming die or can I simply do it in my 38-56 Lee resizing die? Do I need to anneal(spelling?) the 45-70 cases first? It looks like I can get a redding case forming die from Midway for about $70. Some of the stuff I have read however, seams to indicate that I can do it in my resizing die if I go slow. If you are forming or have formed 38-56 cases from 45-70 cases, I need your advise. All responses will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ron W.

[fireman 9731]

I have never tried it, but I wouldn't know why you couldn't. Resizing 45 down to 38 is a decent change, but as long as it fits in the die to begin with it should work. 45-70 brass is fairly thin so it shouldn't be too bad. Just keep an eye out for any duds.

Just take your time and use plenty of a good lube, I recommend Hornady Unique or Imperial sizing die wax.

I wouldn't worry about annealing the cases, they should be fine without it.

Its good to hear about a great old rifle with a great history to go with it :)

Good luck!

[Seedtick]

Hey Ron, I wish I could be more help to you. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing such a cool heritage with us.

ST

[jim in Anchorage]

Going from .45 to .38 is going to leave the neck brass way to thick. Make sure you turn the case necks.

[steveno]

get a copy of Mike Venturino's book "Shooting Lever Action Rifles of the Old West". it has good information in it and very good reading.

[Jim Watson]

I had to use a CH-4D form die to go all the way down to .33 WCF for an 1886, but you might be able to do it in the reloading dies at .38-56. I have seen it recommended to run brass into the seating die to start necking it down but have not tried it; I just bought some .40-65 brass for my Browning instead of reforming .45-70.

Don't screw the die all the way in to start. Just run the lubed brass in a fraction of an inch at a time where the press leverage is good. Then resmear the lube and screw the die down a little more.

Or you could pay Buffalo Arms to do it for you.
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,212.html

Mike Venturino's book probably has some smokeless load data.
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,3121.html

[fguffey]

RCBS part number 58306, close to $220.00

1 800 533 5000

F. Guffey