Wow, serious squeak and drag on RCBS Uniflow?

Just loaded up 50 9mm, and the RCBS Uniflow suddenly developed a loud sqeak and drag, meaning it needs lube? Now, what lube and where? I don't want to put something on it that will ruin powder, obviously, so anyone here have done something like this? Or should I just call RCBS?

Spray silicon lube is what I used on mine lightly around the micrometer stem and sides of the barrel. This stuff dries up but still lubricates making it ideal for this app. Lubing my uniflow turned it into a brand new tool

I use Tuf-Glide (http://www.sentrysolutions.com/sentry_solutions_product_detail.php?product_Code=91060). It is a dry lube that works well on measures. Be sure to lube it when empty, and let it dry well. I haven't tried the silicon for measures, but it should work well.

Dry graphite,the same stuff used to lube door locks will work wonders also. Be careful though, it can be messy if you spill any on your bench or floor. :)

I had good luck with dry graphite. I got away from it when I realized the cylinder is anodized aluminum. Graphite and aluminum don't play nice. Graphite will corrode bare aluminum severely. I've since gone to using LPS 1 aerosol lube. It evaporates completely and is very slick.

You can likely make it acceptable again just by taking it apart and wiping off the parts. Very little or no lube is necessary.

Bear something in mind when dealing with a Uniflow..... The body casting is aluminum and the drum is steel, 2 dissimilar metals. Whatever you use (I use PURE graphite on all of mine) must be compatable with both metals.

Never used anything on mine in over 18 years of reloading.

I'd take it apart and check for something between the frame and the drum.

Graphite is nice from the standpoint it will not contaminate powder but I have read several places to NOT use graphite on aluminum. Graphite can corrode aluminum severely.

Benchrest shooters like to swab the bore with colloidal graphite (lock-ease). Folks have had problems using graphite on competition guns with aluminum actions like Stolle Panda's. Graphite etches and pits aluminum. As long as the anodizing is good on the cylinder it probably won't be a problem but I don't recomend it. They function fine with nothing other than a good wipe down.

Mica powder used in lubing internal case necks, works well to lube your dispenser, it is available through Frankford Arsenal in 4 oz. jars. Disassmble the dispenser and dust the internal parts with a small paint brush, or you can do the same with powder graphite.

I agree with Steve in PA, take the measure apart before you go lubing it.

I have never used lube of any kind on my Uniflow in 25yrs of loading either.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record it is NOT ADVISABLE to lube aluminum with graphite. It's a pretty well known rule that can be Googled.

Gentlemen: I agree with your comments that graphite can corrode aluminum. However, as a chemist I must tell you that for this to happen, moisture must be present, or extremly high percentage of relative humidity(close to 100%) must be present. If this were the case, would you be reloading or storing your equipment or components under this condition. Wouldn't your dies be rusting, powder lumping, and possibly primers becoming inert. After 45 years of using graphite, my RCBS powder measures(2) are as good as new w/o any corrosion whatsoever. Finally are you all aware that powder manufacturer's tumble their finished powder in graphite to contol it's burning characteristics and to insure that it's freeflowing? FYI, I am now using powdered Teflon as my dry lube since it's a better lube and much less dirty. If you Goggle Teflon, you will find it causes respiratory problems so I hope I'll still be around here next month. LMAO! :D

Thanks for all the replies! The nice young lady at RCBS had me take it apart, clean the cylinder and mount with alcohol, and run a pound of powder through it. That helped. She said graphite would work, but the thing is designed to self lube with graphite from the powder itself.
Thanks, guys!

I took mine apart after close to 20 yrs it developed similar issues. I polished the inside of the housing with the grey scotch brite, then the drum. After this I cleaned it with denatured alcohol and applied several coats of Johnsons Paste Wax and never looked back. IT has been running smooth and free for the past 5 yrs with no other issues.

I've never done anything to mine but wipe the drum and bore with Hoppe's #9 once in a while and put back together. BTW when did they start using aluminum, mine is cast iron?

Don't say anything about that.......you'll give away your age. LOL!

My uniflow causes a squeaking sound coming from my wallet.

Beelzy, I thought that might happen. ;)

Here's the "old guys" mantra....

The Uniflow you can trust
Is the Uniflow that can rust !

My uniflow causes a squeaking sound coming from my wallet.
Yep! :)

In China aluminum is more plentiful, the cast Iron,ones were evidently made in the U.S. I have never had a problem with mine and have had it 25 years. Thousands of rounds through it. Thanks USA craftsmanship.

They make em out of aluminum now?

About once a year I take my measures apart clean them well and dust the wear surfaces with powdered graphite then reassemble. Then I take some old propellant (unusable) mix with powdered graphite and run through the measures a couple times. All set for another year or so! As with anything a little time invested in maintenance is worth it to me.:D

The old propellant is sprinkled on the lawn, it makes great fertilizer. :cool:

+ about five on cleaning it.

I bought mine in 1974. About every two years it seems to start getting kinda' different - won't two finger throw quite so smoothly. That's how I know to take it down and clean it all up like shiny new.