Spray painting a gun, need help with high heat paint

Hi!
SO I painted last few inches of my Saiga 5.45 after conversion. Now I'm waiting for it to dry... well it's been like 4 days and the paint still feels a bit sticky to the touch and it comes off VERY easily. Even by gently rubbing against paper towel or paper it comes off.

WHAT'S UP???

I used Rust-Oleum high heat spray paint. Do I need to bake it on??? Why doesn't it stick and harden properly? Yes, I did sand the metal first.

PLEASE HELP!!!

I did too - 98 Mauser I built into a .280 Remington. It took almost 8 months for the paint to harden or cure or whatsoever so it wouldn't rub off. for weeks I could rub it off with a paper towel. I didn't bake it on - don't know if it would have helped. Shore wouldn't have hurt any...

Bump. I would like information too.... :) I want to paint an AR15 and want to do it right!

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2007/12/28/rifle-painting-tutorial/

Might give you some ideas

I cant remeber what brand and type of paint that we used to use when painting HK's . After we would paint the guns we would bake them in an old oven (just like the one in your kitchen) for a couple of hours on 350 and when we pulled them out we would shoot wd 40 all over it . You might want to call an automotive paint store and ask them about what you are trying to acheive . I do not know how you prepped the surface, but , I would take something like eletrical contact cleaner that you can get from the parts store and shoot all of the steel you are painting and let it evaporate , then without touching the steel with your fingers paint it and let it cure for an hour and then bake it .

You should be using Duracoat if you want to spray paint your arms without the finish turning to poo after a few uses.

+1 on the duracoat. Learn on some toys or poke around for some broken airsoft guns, then do the real thing. You can do any color from ACU pattern camo to Pepto Bismol. You will need to completely de-grease the gun, an air compressor, airbrushes and an in-line water filter. The basic starter kit is on Brownell's for about $100.

Looks like i'm gonna have to bite the proverbial bullet, and buy the duracoat starter kit for $100... http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=41772/pid=17640/sku/Level_II_Starter_Kit

:uhoh:

Krylon has worked great for me $5 a can

No need for the $100 Duracoat starter kit--they sell spray cans of firearm-specific paint in cans.

For my own use, I like either Rustoleum or the high-temp paint I've got. Air-dry overnight then, like Bruno said, throw it in the oven at 350 for two hours or until you remember about it.

Did that with Rustoleum on a paintball marker that gets beat up worse than any firearm I own, and still not a scratch.

AlumahydeII from brownells works great and is sturdy as well. When you paint your surfaces make sure that they are as follows. #1 clean, if you can sand off the old bluing. #2 prep the surface till you think you are done then prep some more( media blasting is great) but progressive grits of sand paper and a final scotch Bright pad works as well. #3 put on some rubber gloves and clean the surface with acetone or brake cleaner really well, let it wash off any residue.#4 hang the part on a steady surface that allows you full access to spray around in a clean and wind current free area like you garage, then clean the part with acetone again. #5 spray only when you can meet the conditions on the can, like 70-90 degrees and low humidity. #6 start with a light coat that does not fully cover the part and allow it to flash dry for 30 seconds to 1 minute, after that run 1-2 coats to cover the part. If you want/need more coating leat the part sit for 3-4 days before re coating. Good luck and take your time.

Ya know, I've never painted guns before, and I've been skeptical of those who have. But let me tell you...

About 5 years ago, my Father-in-law painted his lawn furniture - then a hideous green color - with some (likely store brand) "outdoor/patio", Rustoleum type flat black paint. He's no artisan, or even all that handy with a paintbrush or hammer. But that paint has held up really, really well, and is quite hard right now. It has weathered the severe weather changes we have here, as well as some very cold winters and rain w/o rusting.

I think the trick is that the chemicals need to out-gas properly for the paint to properly bond. It's not going to do that in a confined area at room temperature, at least. That's where the heat comes in - it helps activate the chemical reaction more quickly. If my experience with epoxy and glue serves me, the longer something takes to dry unaided, the better the bond typically is. So, if you get some heat and/or airflow, and maybe some UV.

Also, my experience with rustoleum has been, as a general rule, pretty sub-par. I'd say hit it with break cleaner and start over with a different brand, but maybe you just need to let it cure properly. A propane grill (and some judicious rifle waving) or a heat lamp might do the trick. (Or, as you're in Florida... put it on the patio for a couple hours. That sun will warm it right up!)

Porches are the default everywhere. Better in Florida, if you bring it inside during the daily rains we're finally getting again.

Trick for oil painters: leave it in the backseat of the car when you go shopping. Should work for other things, to a point.

Propane grill is a no-no. One of the by-products of burning propane is water vapor which, at best, isn't helping any. At worst, could cause weird cracking, wrippling, or running, or a weird reaction that keeps the paint permanently tacky.

Did you make sure and use brake cleaner or gun scrubber on it first to make sure the surface was completely oil free? Did you bead blast it?

Extended tackiness usually results from a contaminated surface or a poorly mixed product, whether you're painting guns or cars.

Propane grill is a no-no.

Only if you put your items inside the grill. Close the grill, put everything on top, then cover it all with one of those big disposable aluminum pans (and foil, if needed). My wife wouldn't let me use our high-dollar oven to thermal coat engine parts, so this was my workaround. Worked like a champ - many times (and didn't stink up the house or the grill).

A cheap digital temperature probe can help you keep the temp where it needs to be, and bent up coat hangers make great stand-offs to keep the parts off of the lid surface.

Of course, if your grill doesn't have a flat top, it might not be so easy.

Fine!
I just parked my car in Florida sun! It will sit there till at least 5pm today. Hopefully that Rost-Oleum high heat on the barrel will harden nicely.

And yes, I did prep the surface. Sanded it with 400 and 600 paper, and cleaned with nail polish and then rubbing alcohol. So it was clean and dry to bare metal.

EDIT TO ADD: Forgot to mention, duh, but my saiga is in the trunk getting warm :)

VW GTI baking in the Florida sun:

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=104578&stc=1&d=1251812054

There are 2 types of paint I'll use to paint a gun with, BBQ Grill paint and Engine paint. I've never had a problem with either ones drying time. Engine paint is rated for about 500 degrees and works wonderful, you should try it.

I once had a turkish mauser that was so white the slightest bit of humidity the gun would get surface rust. I went to wal mart and bought the cheapest spray paint possible (I was 15 and no job) went home stripped the gun and painted away. It looks pretty good and has stood up all these years, (4) and it wasnt sticky or anything after an hour or so. Can't remember the name of the paint but it was only $1. I have also used that turkish mauser every deer season to date, haven't killed anything with it, but I do say it is my "deer rifle"

You're in my parking spot! Just kidding. Just a thought, but does Rost-Oleum require a primer on the prepped surface.

Let us know how it turns out!

For guns that you value, use a purpose-designed gun coating (Duracoat, KG GunKote, or one of the excellent Brownells products). If you can fit it in the oven, you can use a bake-on finish (some must be baked to work properly). I used KG GunKote on my 1911:

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/stealthyblagga/SA1911A1.jpg

If you can't bake the gun and don't want the expense/hassle of an airbrush etc., you can try Dupli-Color Engine Paint (which I used on a MAC upper with excellent results) or Rustoleum Textured Paint (which I used on a Saiga12 receiver, also with excellent results). Although not as nice nor as rugged as purpose designed gun finishes, both are cheap and available locally:

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/stealthyblagga/M11-9withOEMupperdotPGfoldedandopen.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/stealthyblagga/Saiga12grass.jpg

One of my firearms is gun-koted. It's extremely durable. My gun still looks near-new after being shot a lot.

Many high heat paints for stoves, BBQ and engines need to be heated up to cure. Try a heat gun, oven or even a hair dryer to cure that stuff.

Duracoat on the other hand does not need to be heat treated but is more durable if you do.

You can cure it in the oven too, if it will fit. Read the can, it should say what temp it takes to cure. Make sure you shake the can before use.

Yes, use Duracoat and bake it in the oven. There will be instructions on the Duracoat package.

I tried to use the 1200 degree rustoleum paint on my saiga and it never got hard and was always a smeary mess. I ended up using 400 degree duplicolor engine enamel from pep boys. A little shiny but it dried up and has been fairly durable.

I had good results with Duplicolor Ceramic engine paint. Baked it in the gas grill. Did my FAL 2 years ago and it still looks good.

well, i just painted the front sight block after sanding and cleaning it. i'll bake it in few minutes. hopefuly the paint will harden at 350. will report back soon on that experiment...

Whats the reason for the paint? Is it to try to restore the original as close as possible, or are you doing it for another reason?

I've been painting guns since the 60's. Most of the time, it was camo jobs, and mostly using Testors Military Flats with a couple of three clear flat lacquer over coats. I still have guns that have been painted with the same paint about 20+ years now. I've also stripped guns of those paint jobs and never found a speck of rust under them, even after that long. These were "high use" guns too.

If your going to use one of the more gun specific type paints, be aware, your probably going to have to bead blast them to get them off in the future, unless you just paint over them.

Testors, will come completely off with some work, and it looks like Kylon will too, but I've only had limited experience with it now to say for sure. It seems to come off like the Testors though.

Brownells makes a couple of good gun specific paints. When applied according to their directions, you will usually get very good results. They also have some good videos you can watch on their web site addressing application, which also works well for other paints too. I've used their Aluma Hyde II a lot, and with real good results. Done everything from guns and accessories to bicycles.

I reparked my MP5, and then repainted over that with Aluma Hyde II in matte black. This is what the results were....

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7d700b3127ccec27eaaeb39f000000010O00CYuWbdo5bsQe3nwk/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/


Same gun with the factory finish on the A3 stock.....

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7d700b3127ccec27fde23194e00000010O00CYuWbdo5bsQe3nwk/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Do you bake Aluma-Hyde II on for better results?

No, just spray it on and let it cure.

well, aaaaaaaa.... that didn't work so great...
i spray painted the front sight block, after cleaning and sanding and all, and it hardened in some places great, and in some it created like bubbles and stuff.

GRRRRRRRRRRRRR

looks like i need a new front sight, but what about the barrel??? the paint still scratches off easily. grrrrrrr

Do you have any Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner? I'd try removing what you just did with one of those, and try again with one of the other paints.

Screw that!
I'm ordering some DuraCoat.

LAME!!!

If what you have on there is still bubbling, your going to need to get it off before you paint it with anything else. Either that, or replace the part itself.

If what you have on there is still bubbling, your going to need to get it off before you paint it with anything else. Either that, or replace the part itself.

x2.

Id say use naval jelly or something like it. It should remove all the paint down to bare metal. Then remove ALL that residue and dry (maybe rubbing alcohol - brake cleaner should do you well) before attempting to paint.

AK103K,
Duh! :D
I'm going to get the part sand blasted, or something. I'm in no hurry really. Just want to do it right.
Nothing will probably happen until next week. I just ordered DuraCoat from MidwayUSA. Now we wait...

Im not sure if I would cure it in an oven myself - at least not one I used to cook food in. Sure it would work, but there seems to be a possibility of those fume residues making their way into your food.

Not stating this to be fact - just a warning to do a bit of research before attempting.

musick,
too late.

that chicken does taste funny though :P

UPDATE

I DuraCoat'ed it tonight. It's drying now. So far looks good. I can't wait how it will hold up once it hardens. I'll post pics as soon as it's dry.

+1 on Duracoat and Alumahyde, I'd say you probably really need to scrub and clean and do a better prep.

Duracoat worked wonders!!! FSB and barrel are painted and look awesome!

http://www.larsontactical.com/index.html

These guys do a fantastic job! If u wanna kick out the money I mean if u are gonna pay the money for duracoat then kick out the extra money and let these guys do it!!! ----I am not affialiated to them in any way but i have done hours of reasearch finding the place i like the best and this was it!

Don't waste money on Duracoat. Buy yourself some Duplicolor wheel paint.