Any other method instead of bullet pullers?


September 8, 2009, 02:22 AM
I have quite an interesting experience. i have used the Dillon RL550B for a couple of years but it seems I'm getting "bulges" on my 9mm reloads near the rim. It is the part you can see when you insert them in the barrel chamber. I have many of these after using mag-tech shells.

Also it seems that after "belling" the empty cartidge on the second stage, the handle is quite difficult to lower. The "belled" shell seems to be stuck most of the time. It can be too tight or too thick.

Because of the above enumerated problems, I have lots of bullets that doesn't pass my bullet gauge because of those bulges.

Any recommendations on taking out the heads, primer and powder? What do you use. I don't like my experience with Dillon's bullet puller much. Maybe because I really haven't used it since don't made that too much mistake in the past. It would be a waste if I just throw away the "erroneous" reloads.

Thanks very much.

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September 8, 2009, 02:45 AM
A kinetic bullet puller, the one that looks like a hammer, will do a fine job of pulling the bullets. A few wraps on a hard surface and the bullet and powder drop inside the puller. Bump it into a tray and you have your components separated from the brass. Use your normal decapper to remove the primer even though it's live. I've done it many times without one ever going off. I have also reused every one of those primers and all went bang. (use safety glasses just in case)

September 8, 2009, 02:48 AM
I get these on my 38spl brass which is the only thing i load right now. I figured it was just because of the shell holder covering the bottom part of the case it cant be resized for the full lenth and everything gets pushed down there.

I dont know if this is correct or not but someone here will know. I have never had an issue with it but it may be different for a semi-auto gun.

September 8, 2009, 08:40 AM
Valor1, I have the same problem with 9mm and my 550, it happens during the powder drop stage. The powder tube is a little out of line every now and then, just peak to the left of the press and slightly adjust shell plate if needed. Yes it is a PIA but it stopped my one sided crumples.


September 8, 2009, 09:47 AM
1) the stuck case at the second stage / PTED die, and
2) the "bulge" at the rim that is obviously an out-of-spec cartridge.

First, I suspect that your dies may need cleaning--a thorough cleaning with disassembly. Depending on your case preparation / tumbling-cleaning procedures, you may well have detrius built up on that die, and on the seater-crimper dies as well.

Second--for whatever reason, it does sound like the dies are out of adjustment--particularly at your seating-crimpiing dies. Specifically, you may find your seater and / or crimper die body is set too low, and / or that the crimper needs to be re-set to provide only the minimum taper.

As cbm1948 pointed out, you might have a case alignment problem as well. Check the shell holder for junk in the rim slot--again, a thorough cleaning is called for. Brake fluid / GunScrubber works fine for me, complete with a HD nylon or Bronze brush scrubbing, then recoating the dies with oil--but not on the PTED.

Jim H.

September 8, 2009, 12:08 PM

RCBS Kinetic bullet puller.

Put the cartridge in. Pound until the bullet comes out. Don't worry about breaking it. Be more concerned about what you are pounding it against.

September 8, 2009, 09:22 PM
Well you can put the round in a vise and take a center punch and a hammer and. . .

"Don't try anything you see here at home. We're what you call. . .professionals!"

Seriously tho, I would opt for a kinetic puller. I've had to strip rounds and they've been pretty fast. Keep some cans handy to dump the components into and then you can punch out the primers with a decapping die or a Lee decapping tool. Wear ears, eyes, and gloves when decapping live primers and make sure there is nothing flammable or explosive in the vicinity.

September 8, 2009, 09:36 PM
I'm a "C-" class 9mm shooter/reloader, but I'm closing in on Grand Master with the kinetic puller.

A faulty chrono had me pull over 300 rds a few months ago.

I have a very inexpensive "Frankford Arsenal puller and it keeps on tick'n.

P.S. Follow the instructions and mine works 1 or 2 hits.

September 8, 2009, 09:44 PM
I have a Lee factory crimp taper die for 9MM. I can sometimes use this and recover the round in a single stage press as a separate operation. If not I will use the kinetic puller to disassemble the mistakes. Note use a shellholder in the puller, slide it over the bullet base drop them into it and screw the cap on. This works better than the collets supplied. My save rate is better than 60 %. You can buy the die for less than $15 from several vendors.

September 8, 2009, 09:57 PM
I must reprint one of my favorite posts on the subject, from July of 2007. :evil:

However!!!! There are a few anoying people on this forum I would like to rename Ed, because they are "special". I would recommend the following method of bullet removal to them. For those unnamed speical Eds in the audience, grasp the cartridge with your teeth at the rim with the bullet inside your mouth. Now! Bang the back of your head with large mallet until the bullet comes out.

September 8, 2009, 11:55 PM
He He He :evil:

September 9, 2009, 02:50 AM
A kinetic puller is great for a few mistakes per loading session, but I keep a Hornady Cam-Lock puller set up in a single stage press. It is much faster, and MUCH quieter.

September 9, 2009, 11:40 AM
Suddenly I felt like an amateur again. Well, I did cleaned my 550B for the nth time and adjusted my dies again. Seems ok for the meantime. Maybe until I use the dreaded bullet puller again.

Maybe a bit off topic. What do you guys use or recommend as a more durable bullet puller. I'm currently using a Quinetic bullet puller. Any more inputs?

September 9, 2009, 08:11 PM
My old Quinetics pulled the "heads" from my "bullets" quite well. ??

Has your's broken or .... ? is there something else?

September 9, 2009, 10:34 PM

currently my Quinetic is doing well. just thinking of some mods or other methods for better and quicker bullet pulling.

September 9, 2009, 11:15 PM
+1 for the Hornady cam-lock bullet puller.


September 10, 2009, 12:36 AM
I never had to pull a lot of bullets before.... I can see the kinetic pullers getting a bit tiresome after more than 20 rounds....

tasco 74
September 10, 2009, 12:58 AM
a reloader can't really do without a good kinetic bullet puller IMO........ if a guy is careful enough about useing it you can get the bullet ALMOST out of the case then use your fingers to get it the rest of the way out without the bullet slamming to the bottom and screwing up the tip.... i got a short piece of 2by 4 to whack the puller against instead of the concrete floor in the basement loading room..... i had more screwups before i got my set of lee speed dies....... now i can't even find them on the lee site........ i really like em and glad i got em when i did.............. my kinetic puller is a midway branded one and it works just the same as the others..............


September 10, 2009, 01:12 PM
On the bullet puller, the more solid the surface you hit it on the easier better it works. I have a piece of angle iron 1" thick, 5"x7", and about a foot long, it makes a great anvil.

Call Dillon you may need a new powder drop funnel. Tell them the problem and if you need new parts they are free.

September 10, 2009, 01:30 PM
When using the kinetic type of puller, if you put a foam earplug or similar in the bottom of the chamber, the bullet nose doesn't get deformed........;)

it is simple, easy to use - remember you don't need to slam it like a hammer - it needs to arc and snap against a wood block or so to make that kinetic energy do the work. Some folks use it like they're trying to pound nails in a wall - wrong method

September 10, 2009, 01:39 PM
Get a Hornady Cam-Lock puller, you can easily go through a pile of ammo in no time at all. The kinetic pullers are okay, but not for anything more than a few rouds. Especially if you have great neck tension!

Well you can put the round in a vise and take a center punch and a hammer and. . .

Yeah you can. Works great but be aware that if you don't use a punch as large as the primer it will back out and can cause issues with feeding into the shellplate on progressives with case feeders.

Also, check the expander in your powder measure and make sure it is in spec. It isn't unusual for it to stick a little bit if you don't lube the inside of your cases but it should never be much more than a little tension as it pulls free.

September 10, 2009, 01:45 PM
On my 550, a little steel wool, or scotch-brite pad does wonders for the powder funnel. Clean+shiney things work best!!:)

September 10, 2009, 04:16 PM
I have been loading for over 29 years now on a Dillon press and have no probs with it. the trick to getting really great performance out of the 550B is locking the die nut with the ram all the way up. sounds simple and it really is!! when the ram is all the way up WITH a cartridge in the die and the die nut loose, it allows the cartridge to center the die in the threads on the die( 7/8-14 threads ARE fairly loose!!) tighten the nut with the ram tension on the die and it will stay centered in the threads after the nut is tight. it dosent get the chance to move around!! when you drop the ram the die is correctly centered and edge crushing should be a thing of the past. as for the sticking cases on the 9mm (or any size for that matter) funnel, simply drop the funnel into the case cleaner with the next batch of brass. again simple works!! it cleans off the "micro-burs" and machining marks on the funnel leftover from the machining process that made the funnel in the first place. these burs and marks are almost too small to see with the mark 1 eyeball but an hour in the corncob with some of the Dillon brass polish in it and problem gone!! i did all of mine that way and the problem disapeared across 17 different calibers!!

and make sure you use the Dillon dies!!!!!!! they work!!!

this info comes from reloading for 14 different police departments and over 160 clubs and individuals over a 34 year history of loading 58 calibers and 2.9 million rounds on Dillion equipment and no, i am not a sales man for them.

i simply dont have the time to waste with problems in the middle of a 10,000 round order of 9mm or .40 S&W or .45 ACP. (less than 1.4 / 8 hour days on a 550B) and with a 30,000 to 40,000 round a week work load, i still get to take Fridays off for a 3 day weekend with the wife. ( i promised her she could shoot at Camp Perry for our 18th aniversery, she helps with the loading)

i have read a lot of the threads here and am amazed by the huge abundance knowledge here. i have used some of it myself ( i DO NOT know it all but i know a lot!!) i use the Dillon hardware because it works. 2 big brass cleaners, 4 550b presses and 2 650 presses, more die sets and tool heads than i want to count, the powered case trimmer makes life sweet, i even have the primer pocket swag. it all works!! its no nonsense equipment that literaly pays for its self, pays my mortgage, and for my shooting and hers.

also, if you have a problem, CALL 'EM!! their help is free!! and you talk to a real person!! and if they cant fix it, emaill me

last thing, there are 2 really good bullet pullers out there, the RCBS collet puller which actualy is a die you use in a press with the right collet and the hammer type (quinetics is the best i have found but they all work) simply use these tools as provided and instructed and DONT MODIFY THEM.

feel free to email me at any time, i may not get to it right away, but i will get to it! im usualy up all hours anyway!

best quote; "when in doubt empty 2 clips and see if it moves!!"

September 12, 2009, 10:40 PM
This is what I like about this forum the abundance of information and resource people/forum members. Now I see more light. Thanks guys.

September 12, 2009, 11:05 PM
Someone some time ago on this forum mentioned he hit the wrong end using a kinetic puller. I don't think you want to do that.
I've used one for some time and will probably keep using it. It's cheaper than a die set and I manage to salvage most of my screwups. If you catch the mistake before you crimp you salvage the bullet as well.

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