[scythefwd]

I have some sabots at home that are very tight when ramming them home. My question is this...

How tight is too tight for a sabot or patched round ball? Would you say if it can support a 10 lb weight without moving and without being seated the projectile is too tight in the bore? I am worried that these sabots will act more like an obstruction and less like a projectile if I try to shoot one. I am seriously looking into some smaller sabots, but I would still like the voice of experience.

Thanks
Scythe

[mykeal]

If you can get it down the bore, the gun will shoot it out with no damage. The only problem occurs when the projectile does not seat on the charge - just being 'tight' does not present a problem.

Why do I always catch the spelling errors after I hit Post, but not during the second re-read?
There's a very good reason for that: the text is reformatted when actually posted and thus looks different than it does in the composition window. That change in appearance makes the mind look at it as new information, and things which don't look right stand out. When in the composition window the mind tends to see what you want it to see since you've already seen it before. I'm an editor for a glossy magazine - we NEVER publish until printed copies in different formats have been proofed just for that reason. The different formats ALWAYS show up errors that have been missed in previous proof reads.

[Chawbaccer]

Patched round balls are only too tight if the ramrod breaks when trying to get them down bore, even then a new rod and more force will do the trick.

[scythefwd]

Thanks. I'm still pretty new to this and it is nice to have my worries answered. I'll just make sure I get it seated. I only have one ramrod right now, and it is marked... but I will have to mark it again after I do some loose powder development. Time to break out the paint pens.

[arcticap]

Try to find the right tools to load them without needing to strain, at least until you get the narrower sabots or looser projectiles.
A stout ramrod with a comfortable handle, a starter with the right tip, a tiny bit of lubrication in the bore or on the projectile, swabbing in between shots to keep the barrel clean and a mallet of some sort to gently tap the projectiles 1/2 down the bore if necessary.
Also use a solid rifle rest while loading and ramming for better leverage.
Usually the tighter sabots are more accurate but not always.
Picking the best load is a compromise between loading difficulty and trying to obtain the best accuracy.

[scythefwd]

articap. I load with the butt of the rifle on the ground. It isn't getting much more solid... but that dang recoil pad that shipped on the gun is squishy as all hell so it doesn't help.

I don't expect to get a second one of these sabots down the barrel without a field cleaning. Hell, I was worried about bending the rod on the first one in a clean barrel.

The barrel always has a little bore butter on it for lubrication.

What do you mean by tapping the projectiles half down the bore... have the projectile or half the bore length?

We have discussed my starter already, and I am working on building a ramrod (t handle, .30 inches or larger in probably pine, when I get around to it)

I won't be shooting them until next year... so I have plenty of time to get things together. Right now I'll stick with my accurate enough load to hunt under 50y.

[arcticap]

1/2 way down the length of the barrel.

[Cosmoline]

Just make darn sure you get it all the way down.

I made a "ramrod of doom" out of a stiff fiberglass driveway marker that can actually be hammered down if needed.

[scythefwd]

cosmo, I have full load and empty marks on my current rod. If it is anywhere else on the rod... I push it all out the breech plug and start over (or seat it further if need be).