[outfieldjack]

paid $599 for it.... have a few questions though since I am not too familiar with revolvers....

Dry firing.... can I do that, do I need snap caps?

Cleanning.... anyhting special or can I use MOST of the same techniques I use for my autoloaders?

Any other suggestions would be helpful...

Thanks,
Jack

[ChristopherG]

Jack,
Congratulations; it's a terrific little piece, and offers an unrivaled weight/power ratio. Will take practice to shoot accurately, but it can be done, and nothing out there is easier to carry. To your questions:

Yes, you can dry fire it, and no, you don't need snap-caps. Smith & Wesson says you can dry fire it, and you can. In fact, you should--both to smooth out the trigger and to strengthen your trigger finger, if you're more accustomed to those sissy autopistols ;)

As to cleaning: the only real trick is to avoid abrasive cleaners on the titanium cylinder. I never use anything rougher than a nylon brush on the cylinder (though I do use bronze on the barrel sometimes), and no chemical harsher than CLP. This treatment will leave some black marks on the front and front sides of the cylinder, but do yourself and your gun a favor and don't worry about them. If you try to scrub them off, you'll achieve nothing in terms of function, and perhaps damage the protective finish on the cylinder.

Every once in a while, you may want to take the cylinder off for a thorough cleaning of the whole deal. To do that, you carefully remove the forwardmost screw on the right side of the frame (the one under the cylinder) and slide the crane forward out of the gun and the cylinder. Then you can more easily clean the cylinder, the crane assembly, and the forcing cone area.

Other suggestions: if you want to shoot magnums in it, do yourself a favor and get Pachmayr compac grips that cover the backstrap. For .38s, little bootgrips are fine. My 340PD likes heavier bullets better than light ones--like 158s rather than 125s. Pay attention to the directions on ammo in the manual--don't shoot super-light bullets, and pay attention to the possibility of 'bullet jump' in stout loads. My favorite load so far is a Speer 146gr JHP (the one that looks like a LSWCHP, but with a jacket around the base) over six and a half grains or so of 231.

I like mine, if that's not clear. Shout out any other questions--
CG

[Sportcat]

And the indoor range OutfieldJack and I were going to to fire our new guns was closed! :cuss: :cuss:

I had just got a new 642 and drove two hours to go to the show with him, and then go to the range!

[E=MC^2]

My 340PD has seen thousands of hours of carry. It replaced the 342PD I had previously. Great gun. Very sturdy.

I'd always carried Winchester's 125gr +P Silvertips with the Personnel Defense label in both. The point-of-aim and point-of-impact were exact for me. Although not a great score, I received a 92% using these on one of
Final Option's (www.finaloption.org) defensive handgun courses. The 25yd targets look like a long-??? haul for a snub but the accuracy with these is incredible.

More recently, I've started carrying Federal's 125gr .357 JHP Hi-Shok(not Hydra). These are the slowest full-house loads I've chrono'd which also make them the lightest recoiling, though, still WAY more than 38 special and +P's. The hollow-point opening is VERY large in diameter. My theory is this might aid in a greater amount of expansions with these slower snubs. They are also very inexpensive at $9 per box(20 count). I put 3 boxes of these through the 340 yesterday on DPMS's range in central MN. At 25yds those 8" steel plates were smashing down with great authority. My right hand is still a little sore today but will be fine again for next weekend, as it always is.

I've found that EVERY Cor-Bon load I've tested has pulled bullets. This includes both 38 Special and 357. In my most recent encounter, their 125gr 38+P load had the bullets moving forward after the first shot. The second shot would have at least one bullet sticking out past the cylinder. The cylinder was then locked-up. I was able to press these bullets back with my thumb enough to open the cylinder and clear the weapon. I duplicated this condition a few times just to finish off the box(20 count). It seems they use a very light crimp on these. I have never encountered this problem with any other brands. This includes all bullet weights for 110gr to 180gr. And yes, I realize the shroud says, "No Less Than 120 GR Bullet". I just like to experiment.

Thousands of dryfires have made this the smoothest trigger I've ever came across in a revolver. I've never used snap-caps. It stages very nicely for accuracy shots. One day I took my time on an aluminum can that rested on the bank behind our 100yd rifle trgets. At 110yds I put a round directly through the center with lots of witnesses. Of course, I didn't attempt a second shot because I would have most likely missed. I've learned to quit while I'm ahead. :) As an aside--I belive this next week's American Shooter is the episode where Bob Munden is shooting his 2" snub-nose at 300yds. It's very interesting. Watch it if you get the chance.

Along with Christopher's cleaning comments, I'd like to add that I get a little corrosion on the knurled surface of the cylinder release lever. This is a carbon-steel part. Just apply a few drops of oil during cleaning. Also, I have always used a copper brush to remove debris from the face of the cylinder were the bullets exit and to the forcing-cone. The copper brush hasn't harmed anything so far and works way better than nylon, to me, which is what I use everywhere else.

I'll also add that my 340PD has seen over a thousand(maybe two) rounds of ammo and still locks up like a new gun. No cylinder slop.

I have made zero mods but did loose that little lanyard pin during a cleaning. This happened when I removed the boot grip to add a couple drops of oil to the hammer spring. I do this about twice a year. I didn't even notice it was missing until weeks later, though, it's never used anyways. The next time the grip is removed I'll just fabricate a new pin from a worn-out drill bit.

I carry mine in those CHEAP Gunmate inside-the-waistband holsters. I bet I have a dozen of them scattered around. I also have some fine leather pieces but always come back to the Gunmates. They usually cost around $9 each but I came across a clearance sale that had them for $4.99. I bought them out. They weigh next to nothing and are super thin. Very comfortable. To prove that I'm not just a cheap-??? and am only buying them because of the price, I've spent over 1K on 1911 rigs this year alone. I use different styles for different types of competition, yet I find the gun that's always with me rides most comfortably in probably the most inexpensive holster made. I also have an Unkle Mikes that is based on the same concept but made with a different material. It has a smoother feel but I can't find it anywhere. This is also an el-cheapo that works great, along with Bianchi's #6 if you like leather instead. They run $15 here.

Hope you enjoy your new 340.

[outfieldjack]

THANKS! For all the info.... if anyone else has any I'd appreciate it!

Jack