Cleaning options ~~ HELP??!!


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fatfreddiescat
October 2, 2009, 01:53 PM
:cool: Was just on the line with a rep from Hornady. He recommended using ONLY Hornady One Shot Dry Lube to clean a Sig P226, as well as my Beretta Urika shotgun. I re-ask regarding Hoppy's sovent first, then lube? He said that One Shot is enough for cleaning, but that every now and then (4-5K rounds, or a long period of inactivity) a thorough cleaning and oiling should happen.

He said to 'spray a liberal amount' along the rails, into the ejector area, and in and about the trigger and hammer mechanism area. Then wipe down the weapon, and clean up any excess spray, and that this should be done every or every other time the gun is fired.

Has anyone here have DIRECT EXPERIENCE with using only dry lube as a cleaning/protective agent? I would have dismissed it as a pitch, but then a local gun shop owner (with a great rep) told me he thought that (along with the ongoing frenzy and newbie owners) a lot of people clean their weapons TOO OFTEN! :scrutiny:

He said that simply holding the slide, releasing the lock pin, and removing the barrel and upper slide with the spring and pin still in place gives ample access to clean a weapon, and again, that every 3-4 or 5 times you shoot should you take it 'all of the way down' to clean it. (remember-its spray, so no patches or other tools are needed)

Anyone have any input? I tried the spraying one shot yesterday on my P226, and it certainly looks like it cleaned a bunch of residue off, especially in places a swab might not reach. Then I wiped 'er down, and hit a drop of oil on the guides, trigger and hammer area, re-wiped it down, and called it clean.

Just looking for someone who KNOWS that this dry-spray, non-solvent cleaning technique works.

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Jed Carter
October 3, 2009, 10:37 AM
Imagine a sales rep saying use only my product... bet its expensive too.
For a cleaning solvent I use Isopropyl alcohol, for stuborn bore deposits I use, Remington bore cleaner, a water based mechanical scrubber. Nothing I use has dangerous VOC's and are safe to use indoors. I use Militec lube, very sparingly on pistols I use often and coat the entire surface on ones that may see storage. All cleaners and lubes work, some better than others, but some may have harmful, permanent, side effects if used in a confined, unventilated area, like Hoppe's no9. Read the caution label only you can decide what works, what risks are associated with it's use. I'm sure the sales reps product works fine but most " manufacturer recomended" products are done through a financial arrangement or affialiation. As far as my SIG P226 is concerned I think by cleaning it with sand, lube it with mud, it would still work just fine.

KewToo
October 3, 2009, 10:45 PM
' The devil with all the new "green" products. I'm with Jed.
My home-made recipe for shotguns, rifles and pistols is:

1. Heavy cleaning: M-Pro Gun Cleaner (Academy - approx. 7 to 9 bucks for a 4oz. pump-spray bottle); but the bottle lasts for months; taked very little to be effective. Good for serious powder carbon removal. Worth the money.

2. Rem-Oil with Teflon (in the "atmosphere-destroying" 4oz can): can't beat it for lubricating moving parts. Best thing down the barrels - to leave a corrosion barrier - no matter if carrying or storing.

3. Archer Lube Gel with Teflon (Home Depot approx. $4 bucks for 3oz tube); you can't use this up in 3 years only on guns... so use it for other things too.
Best for slide rails (apply it thin); and as a general "rub" for outer surfaces like barrels, slides, magazines, etc. Not greasy at all.

Remember, your government puts out more harmful gas in a day, than the average American commuter.

m2steven
October 3, 2009, 11:20 PM
Be careful about breathing some of the petrochemical solvents and oils. They really can screw some people's lungs up, and other things. Clean in a ventilated area.

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