[PawDaddy]

I went to the gun show in Montgomery this afternoon and a Smith model 10 came home with me.

I went looking for a four inch, but didn't see but two and they didn't look as good as the 2" that I wound up with. It had very little wear on the bluing, had the small, thin grips, and locked up TIGHT. The gun looked good overall! My cousin, who happened to have a table there, looked it over for me and said that the price of 275.00 was pretty good.(He's had more experience dealing with used guns than I) I got it for 250.00 OTD.

It is a 10-5. Can anyone tell me about this model? Do you all think that it was a good deal?

[Old Fuff]

You didn't too bad. The 10-5's were made around 1962 to 1977. It should prove to be a good gun. If you carry it concealed you may want to consider an IWB holster because otherwise the butt tends to tilt away from the body because of the short barrel. Limited amounts of Plus-P ammunition shouldn't hurt it. It's simple, mechanically safe, and highy reliable.

You could have done a lot worse ......

[PawDaddy]

Old Fuff,

I do plan to carry it concealed and IWB. That is the only way to go for me.

He had 299.00 on the tag and when I asked him what he would take for it, he said 275.00. I made the offer of 250 and he pondered it a few seconds and agreed. I might could have gotten for less, but I am not very good and dickering. I am not going to worry about what I might could have saved if I had offered less. I am just going to enjoy it and be satisfied.

[Old Fuff]

"I am not going to worry about what I might could have saved if I had offered less. I am just going to enjoy it and be satisfied."

That I think, is the attitude everyone should have.

Your revolver has forged-steel lockwork instead of injection molded parts.

I does not have an internal lock that could get you into all kinds of trouble if it was "on" during an emergency and you didn't know it.

It was made during a time when hand-workmenship was less expensive and used more often. It was also made at a time when the driving force behind gun designing and manufacture wasn't "find a way to make it cheaper."

It is easier to hold on to and control because of it's larger grip. The cylinder holds six rather then five cartridges. Because of it's leaf mainspring and general design the action can be tuned to be smoother then smaller models or other makes that have coil mainsprings.

And you worked the seller down from $299.00 to $250.00 OTD.

Sometime, somewhere down the road you might have found something for a few less bucks. Maybe - maybe not, who knows? But I wouldn't worry about it either. Enjoy what you have.

[Stainz]

I wanted a 4" M10, having thought the 2" versions would be too hard to find. I did note a 2" M10 for $280 new from a closeout dealer - and took a chance and ordered it over my Labor Day vacation. What I got was fantastic - my first ever .38. It is a new M10-11 - made in Jan of this year. It has the new lockwork - but no built-in hammer lock. The 6" M66 I also ordered at the same time, an M66-6 also made in Jan, actually did come with said hammer-lock. I suppose the venerable old M & P, the M10, won't be wearing such a wart.

I feel like I got a deal on my 10 - but that is only because I could not find an older style 2" 10 - like yours. You paid a fair amount for a good gun - show prices are a bit higher than individual to individual sales, but they have to be - those tables rent for $25-$50 at a show. You really cannot pay too much for a good gun... within reason. You did fine.

My 10 may not have the best blueing I have ever seen - certainly not as deep as some of the holster worn used ones - and that cylinder drag line, non-existent when I first pulled it from the box, is prominent now. It is a perfect size for carry - and smooth as can be now - I cleaned/lubed it before and after dry firing it ~500-600 times. It is slick now - for a transfer-bar piece. It shoots a tad low POA on my 158gr LRN with 3.5 gr T-G - may have to dupe some commercial loads it liked and hit POA with. I can regularly hit the rebounding plates at 12yd - quickly due to the low recoil. A call to S&W revealed it's birthdate and +P rating. Enjoy your find!

Stainz

[Secmat]

Aaaaaaaaaaahhhhh-K-frame .38s. :)

[Al Thompson]

I bought a M64 2 inch, RB. Really got it for resale, but I like too much. :) I put the UM bootgrips on mine and it's a keeper.

[FPrice]

Older S&W's have a habit of doing that to me also! :D

But I am curious, is it a square butt or a round butt? IMHO the round butt models conceal better than the square butts. But, that is an individual preference which does not take away from what you have. Enjoy!

[444]

" I suppose the venerable old M & P, the M10, won't be wearing such a wart. "

What do you mean by that ? Do the brand new Model 10s have the lock on them ? I was actually thinking about buying a new Model 10; just in case the three I have now arn't enough you understand.

[PawDaddy]

SaxonPig,

It looks exactly like that!

FPrice,

It's like SaxonPig's. Square butt. Right?



I took it out and put a few rounds through it yesterday. I didn't have time to really test it out. It was getting late, but I just wanted to shoot it! In the past, when I would get a new gun, I would not let the day go by until I shot it. Even if it was night time, I would go out to my hunting place to shoot a few rounds. But, I let that tradition die a few guns ago. Now I go longer without shooting a new gun. Sometimes a couple of days.

I will go back soon, Lord willing, and really see what it can do.

Can this revolver safely be carried fully loaded?

[Old Fuff]

Yes, you can carry it fully loaded unless someone has fooled with it. It should have a positive hammer-block safety. Be sure it's unloaded and then cock the hammer. Slowly lower the hammer while looking at the front of the hammer slot just under the firing pin recess. You should be able to see the hammer block moving up to block the hammer.