Vibrator Brass Cleaner


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Ret.CWO
October 7, 2009, 05:06 PM
I can't remember where I read this I checked all the way to page ten. Someone recommended adding NuFinish Car Polish to the medium. I've have been reloading off and on since 1959 and tried just about every way to clean brass. Well I bought some of the NuFinish and added 2 tablespoons to new crushed corn cob all I can say is WOW!!!I've had the Lyman treated walnut do a good job. I've tried Brasso ,Franklin Arsenal polish, Dillon and so on over the years. But I've got to tell you the results of the NuFinish has got to be right up there with a good scotch. Just run the vibrator long enough to let the liquid dry then add the brass. Got to tell you I've been converted. So thank you who ever posted this method before.:):):)

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Noveldoc
October 7, 2009, 08:12 PM
As a retired CWO, I am sure you know my favorite. A couple of Tbsps of Brasso.

Tom

rhinoh
October 7, 2009, 08:34 PM
here we go...:rolleyes:

jcwit
October 7, 2009, 08:44 PM
Both are OK, just let the ammonia dry out before tumbling.

Noveldoc
October 7, 2009, 08:57 PM
I was Brasso deprived in the service. My dad was an Army CWO so I always got Brownie points for polishing his brass. They I joined USAF and we had non brass insignia we were not supposed to polish. <sniff>

So may it's just the fumes when I pour it on the walnut. ;-)

Tom

something vague
October 7, 2009, 09:05 PM
So letting the polish dry will get rid of the ammonia? Apparently it evaporates well enough to not cause harm to the brass? I'll stick with non ammonia polishes myself.

jcwit
October 7, 2009, 09:22 PM
Frankly I'm a BIG beliver in Nu-Finish or most any auto polish I happen to have on hand. I've got bottle after bottle of polish that claims to give 6 months or more protection on my autos, non do, but boy they give years of protection to ammo brass.

RustyFN
October 7, 2009, 11:16 PM
Ret.CWO,

You will find now that the media is treated it will take less Nu Finish every time you tumble. I use 1/2 cap full every time sometimes a little less. I have been using it for three years and am very happy.

Ret.CWO
October 7, 2009, 11:18 PM
jcwit are you the one who posted the NewFinish trick. If so I want to thank you. Any time brass is handled with bare hands you can some times see a print a few moths after-wards. I guess the polish will protect this also.

jcwit
October 7, 2009, 11:36 PM
Pretty much so, I think it depends on how dry ones fingerprints are. I used to be one of those who if I touched anything steel it started to rust. I've sense had chemo-therpy and one minor aftereffect was dry skin. So I have no problem with rust or tarnish.

At anyrate the wax/silicone or whatever they have in the auto polish helps to proctect the brass. The dried out Brasso does work as far as polishing the brass, but adds no protection. Thats why the Army guys keep polishing their brass, I used to spray mine with clear lacquer when I was active.

Little add-on here, do like RustyFN says, this is one of those cases where less is better. Goes against the American way. hehe

Uncle Chan
October 7, 2009, 11:39 PM
I, too, use NuFinish. I've used brasso in the past, but find that NuFinish "seems" to work better.

nitetrane98
October 8, 2009, 12:07 AM
I'm going to have to try some of that. I've never heard anybody that didn't like it. It's pretty cheap too. I've got the monster Dillon vibrator so I don't think a tablespoon or two is going to cut it. I just finished up with a bottle of Meguiars buff and clean compound I had left over from buffing out an old paint job on my car. I used it with ferret cage corn cob. Kind of big but worked OK. The Meguiars seemed a little to aggressive. It cleaned it up very well but never really shined all that well just kind of a nice mellow yellow glow. I know it doesn't matter but I figure it can't cost that much more to go first class and have the stuff really shine.

What can be used to shine up the real old grungy stuff that you dig out of the dirt that has a brown patina on it? Mine just vibrate around and stay brown, but clean.

We never got to use anything but Nev'r'dull on the ship I was on. And boy we used a bunch of it. I think it was just cotton wadding soaked in Brasso. Definitely had the ammonia thing going.

jcwit
October 8, 2009, 12:18 AM
I've never found anything that really helped that brown stuff. Its usually only good for a couple/three reloads before it splits anyway. I just keep it seperate and it goes in the recycle brass bucket when it finally gives up the ghost.

xd9
October 8, 2009, 01:01 AM
new to reloading. how long does it take for the nu-finish to dry before you add youre brass?

Seedtick
October 8, 2009, 01:13 AM
xd, not long, I don't even wait anymore. I put my brass in and then dump in a capful of the N-F and let er rip. I've started turning my tumbler on at bedtime and letting it run all night (6-8 hrs.) and the next morning the brass looks new.
YMMV :)

ST

xd9
October 8, 2009, 01:42 AM
thanks seedtick

Maligator
October 8, 2009, 10:20 AM
I'm a big fan of running the vibratory cleaner while I am at work...come home sperate the brass and then put another batch in overnight while I sleep. They all come out really shiney and clean! :D

357SigFan
October 8, 2009, 10:40 AM
How do you get the polish to distribute in the media? I've tried the Dillon polish and I believe the franklin arsenal polish and neither one would do anything but sit in clumps in the fine walnut media I have no matter how long I ran the tumbler to work it in.

ranger335v
October 8, 2009, 10:43 AM
"..letting the polish dry will get rid of the ammonia? Apparently it evaporates well enough to not cause harm to the brass?"

YES. Ammonia is a liquid, when it evaporates and the cat pee smell is gone the ammonia is gone. That can be within a few hours if the viberator is running with the lid off. But, it's simplier not to use Brasso at all, other polishes are just as good and less expensive.

There is no magic in Nu-Finish, all auto polishes will do the same thing. But DON'T use any liquid car "wax", that's a whole different thing. And you don't need to add any polish iwth every new load, that only makes for a lot of dried polish dust.

It can be okay to add polish and brass at the same time but it's sure not a good idea. It can easily collect in a case and cause a clump too! Better to add any liquid polish first and run the thing for 15-20 minutes to let it mix well before adding cases.

Maligator
October 8, 2009, 10:49 AM
I put the polish in the media and turn on the tumbler for about 3-5 mins. I then take off the lid and see if there are any clumps...if there are then I squish them between my fingers and rub the excess in the other dry media. I usually only add polish to new media as the walnut and corn cob mix I use soaks it in.

P.S. I also use latex gloves when handling my brass, used tumbler media and such. Not paranoid but also not wanting to put any more lead into my system than I do already. ;)

jcwit
October 8, 2009, 11:35 AM
But DON'T use any liquid car "wax", that's a whole different thing

Why not? The wax is what coats the brass protecting it from tarnishing. Have used the green bottle Turtle Wax with great results and no bad experience. In fact I've even tried the paste cleaner waxes,and they work also, just harder to break down in the tumbler. As I stated most any auto cleaner polish/wax will work, personnally I think most use way to much polish in their media. I use a 20/40 grit corncob media "which is very fine" and it currently has about 1 tablespoon of polish in it. There have been a few thousand cases thru it so far, and still working good.

Walkalong
October 8, 2009, 11:38 AM
I'm a big fan of running the vibratory cleaner while I am at work...come home sperate the brass and then put another batch in overnight while I sleep. They all come out really shiney and clean! :D
Same here. I use Midways polish and Graingers corncob. It will even get the brown cases clean unless they are really badly stained.

Friendly, Don't Fire!
October 8, 2009, 12:21 PM
I'll have to try all of your recommendations!
One thing I do is hang a small vacuum hose over an overhead pipe over the stud on the top of the vibratory cleaner and keep it just low enough to not pick up media.

Wire the pipe with mechanics wire and I run the vacuum on a heavy-duty timer along with the cleaner so they both shut off at the same time.

I can run it for five hours without a speck of dust on my workbech. I do it with the RCBS Vibratory Cleaner Top completely removed.

Noveldoc
October 10, 2009, 03:28 PM
Thanks for the leads guys.

I just ran 100 mixed 45 and 44 Mag cases in fresh RCBS walnut media. Added 2 tbsp of Turtle Wax paste auto scratch remover/polish. After just 90 minutes, awesome! Brass was so bright I had to use shades.

Guess I'll just have to snort my Brasso straight up. ;-)

Tom

rfwobbly
October 10, 2009, 03:58 PM
I once was using Nu-Finish and left the tumbler ON over night by mistake. On opening the tumbler lid I was temporarily blinded and had to wear sun glasses and walk with a white cane for several days.

Be careful. :rolleyes:

rondog
October 10, 2009, 03:58 PM
If you're a true "brass rat" like me, and will pick up anything you can see, this stuff works pretty good at eating the crud off. Kinda expensive, get it at Midway or most other distributors. Might Google it for other sources.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1450.jpg

I've brought these....

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1410.jpg

To this.....

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1453.jpg

To this....

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1460.jpg

Ain't perfect, but neither am I. They'll certainly work good enough for me and my can blasting needs.

Ret.CWO
October 10, 2009, 11:43 PM
I have to say that's impressive.

snuffy
October 11, 2009, 01:43 AM
That label on the IOSSO can is misleading. Says eliminates hours of polishing in dry media! Yeah, but I can take the shells right out of a vibratory tumbler, right to the loading press. IOSSO treated cases are WET! It takes a long time to air dry brass so you can load 'em. You can shorten the time in an oven, but care must be taken to NOT get them too hot.

Noveldoc
October 11, 2009, 01:46 AM
LOL Wobbly. Maybe get a harness for your dog? Guess I couldn't do that with my mini Schnauzer.

I had no problem using the Turtle soft paste polisher/wax. It spread around very quickly.

I noted post above. Going to add a bit of corncob to my walnut to see if that gets into primer pockets better.

Tom

qajaq59
October 11, 2009, 10:05 AM
I'm better now

I once was using Nu-Finish and left the tumbler ON over night by mistake. On opening the tumbler lid I was temporarily blinded and had to wear sun glasses and walk with a white cane for several days.

Be careful.
rfwobbly, I'm so glad to see you would never exaggerate. lol :evil:

rondog
October 11, 2009, 05:13 PM
That label on the IOSSO can is misleading. Says eliminates hours of polishing in dry media! Yeah, but I can take the shells right out of a vibratory tumbler, right to the loading press. IOSSO treated cases are WET! It takes a long time to air dry brass so you can load 'em. You can shorten the time in an oven, but care must be taken to NOT get them too hot.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that the label on the jug is total BS. It WILL clean the crud off, but there AIN'T no shiny to the cases, they still have to be tumbled/polished. I suppose if you had brass that was fresh from the range and just sooty, it would do OK with that, but I bought it for the nasty brass that I feel compelled to bring home. It's hell being a packrat sometimes, but I've got a LOT of brass stashed away.

mrdo1
October 22, 2009, 07:41 PM
Snuffy, go tto the local NAPA autoparts store, buy a couple of bottles of their 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, NOT the methyl alcohol, pour the alcohol over the wet brass swish it around then lay them on a towel, they will be dry in just a few minutes, save the alcohol, it can be reused until it's gone. Learned when I worked in the semiconductor assembly industry.

glockmon
October 23, 2009, 11:21 AM
Flitz takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours with walnut to return brass to like new . I've done about 3000 cases this week with 1 application . I'll recharge it tonight to finish the rest.

cpermd
October 23, 2009, 12:31 PM
My tumbler goes 24 hrs a day.
I use NuFinish 2 tsp in each load.
They go for 8 hrs due to my work and sleep schedule.
I love the stuff.

CP

ole farmerbuck
October 23, 2009, 12:40 PM
I got some fery fine liquid rubbing compound from the local John Deere store. I couldnt believe how much faster it cleaned the dirty brass than NuFinish does. 2 hours max on dirty brass makes em look new.

BossHaug
October 23, 2009, 12:41 PM
For those cruddy cases like rondog showed (or any discolored cases), I just use lemon juice. I put a quart of the cheapest variety I can find (Dollar General, $1.25) in a sealed rock tumbler (don't dilute), and tumble for an hour or so. The juice turns almost black, but can be reused for 2 or 3 batches before it loses it's punch. They come out bright, but not yet shiny. After they dry, I then run them in my vibratory tumbler with Nu-Finish.

jjohnson
October 23, 2009, 01:29 PM
Okay, I'm a brass rat, too, and have tried a lot of things over the past 35 years of reloading.

If you're doing this stuff in quantity, and cash is tight, get a big vibratory cleaner with a warranty (I've burnt out a few). Find a cheap source of media (I get 40-pound bags of corncob at WW Grainger's for about $25). Find a cheap additive (Nu-Finish is the cheapest I've found, and Walmart sells it). Recycle your worn media when it gets too dirty to be effective anymore (I use mine on my icy driveway instead of sand).

Nu-Finish gives you the very mild abrasion you need to get real crud off. I let my vibratory cleaner run overnight or for a full workday and the stuff comes out looking like gold :what:. Auto waxes do just that - they wax - they can coat the tarnish that's already there. Give it a try sometime - try some Turtle Wax in new media and test it against Nu-Finish in new media. I do believe in the Nu-Finish as the best and cheapest solution. No debate on ammonia.

Yes, it can clump up when first introduced to media, but if you let it break up while running without brass OR smoosh up the clumps by hand and let it break down a bit, as another guy says, no problems.
I bought a pound of jeweler's rouge from Powder Valley for about $12 some years ago and add a teaspoon to a load if the stuff looks like brass left over from WWI. That's never a requirement, but it speeds up the process for brass that looks hopeless. Nu-Finish by itself will still get you there.

A 40-pound bag of cheap media and one bottle of Nu-Finish will go a long way - for under $35 total - and I load maybe 10-12 thousand rounds a year.

Radaray
October 23, 2009, 01:56 PM
I like all of the above suggestions except any that use ammonia. Put a case in a little Bo-Peep over night and see what happens to your case. Don't do it with one you want to use. It will disappear and your Bo-Peep will be a pretty saffire blue.

Also, don't throw away your used and dirty walnut cleaning media. Get some old used window screen mesh (preferably in a frame), and suspend it over a couple of saw horses. Then spread the dirty walnut media evenly over the screen. Hose it down real good. The dirt and grime will wash off the media, and it will be as good as new. Let the sun dry it out (doesn't take very long), re-treat it with whatever you use for cleaning your cases, and it will be as good as new. Walnut is so hard, it doesn't wear out~~~just gets dirty.

Don't try it with corn cob. Just walnut. I use the walnut for cleaning and the corn cob for polishing.

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