how about this setup for 500 yards+ 223


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minnesotagunner
October 9, 2009, 11:35 PM
http://www.ozarkguns.com/rifles/tikka/tikkat3stainless.htm

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-10x42-Tactical-Riflescope-P500.aspx

Ive posted here a while back but not recently. i think the tikka is what ill stick with but im willing to change on scopes.

what i need in my scope:

Tactical turrets
100+ MOA
40+ mm objective
dont care where parallax is
would like 6-24 magnification
Mil dot reticle

the supoer sniper has most of it, the only thing i dont like is the fixed 10 x, and i wish i could get one for a little cheaper too!

just throwing it out there, any ideas?

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JDGray
October 10, 2009, 09:55 AM
dont care where parallax is You will definately want a scope that is adjustable, for parallax free shooting;)

SammyIamToday
October 10, 2009, 10:19 AM
What about the new 3-9x Super Sniper?

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-3-9x42-Tactical-Riflescope-P41044.aspx

I've also read good things about the Vortex Viper line.

I have a fixed 10x SS and it works well. Not the clearest glass, but very repeatable rugged.

Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
October 10, 2009, 12:05 PM
just throwing it out there, any ideas?

Yes, I have one. There's the hard way to do things, and the easy way to do things. In this case (500 yards, a very long ways), the easy way to do things is to step up to a better chambering for the job, such as .243 Win or larger. Sure .223 will "do it", but it's a LOT harder to get good groups at that range than it is with a better BC bullet. Having said that, if you're in it for the challenge, not the smallest groups possible, then by all means, have at it with the .223 rem. If I misunderstood what you're trying to do, then I apologize - I'm looking at the "223" in the thread title.

minnesotagunner
October 10, 2009, 12:17 PM
You will definately want a scope that is adjustable, for parallax free shooting


ummmm yea.... i dont care where the adjustment is...

minnesotagunner
October 10, 2009, 12:19 PM
Yes, I have one. There's the hard way to do things, and the easy way to do things. In this case (500 yards, a very long ways), the easy way to do things is to step up to a better chambering for the job, such as .243 Win or larger. Sure .223 will "do it", but it's a LOT harder to get good groups at that range than it is with a better BC bullet. Having said that, if you're in it for the challenge, not the smallest groups possible, then by all means, have at it with the .223 rem. If I misunderstood what you're trying to do, then I apologize - I'm looking at the "223" in the thread title.
well yea i am focused on the 223. i think it really fits my style. ive treid shooting 22lr at 300 and its blown around way top much. really do want to stick with the 3 in 223.

FlyinBryan
October 10, 2009, 12:23 PM
ummmm yea.... i dont care where the adjustment is...

ya, he misunderstood you, and to be honest, so did i, but in our defense, you are wanting to shoot 500yds with a 223 so it was easy to think you didnt have any idea what you were after.

Fremmer
October 10, 2009, 12:50 PM
I guess I still don't understand. Usually 500 yards? Sometimes? Usually 100 or 200 yards?

If you want to shoot long range most of the time, you should buy a rifle made for that. Something with a bench style stock, fatter barrel, heavier gun. The tikka lite looks to me like it's made for hunting at normal hunting ranges (nothing wrong with that).

500 yard shots? I know I'd need a higher-end target-style scope to try shots like that. With parallax adjustment. And that's going to cost a lot of money, but it is a necessary investment.

Just a couple of things to think about, and good luck! Let us know what you decide.

52grain
October 10, 2009, 12:51 PM
Have you thought about a heavy barrel?

MinnMooney
October 10, 2009, 02:25 PM
100 MOA :
Why limit yourself to just those scopes with 100 MOA or more? Did you know that a 55 gr. Sierra BlitzKing, at a modest 3000 fps, will only need 11.5 moa of turret cranking (assuming a 100 yd. zero) to be dead on? That means that any scope with 25 - 30 moa of total adjustment would suffice.
If you want to shoot at much farther distances like in the 800-900 yard range where you'll need to crank to 45 moa+/- then mount your scope with a 20 MOA base or, better yet, use Burris Signature Zee rings with the offset inserts to get your 20 MOA. I do this on all of my prairie dog rifles and I can dial in out to 900 yards (44 moa) using scopes that only have 60 moa of total elevation adjustment. I do this by dialing in 45-50 moa down from the upper limit of my elevation turret & centering the windage turret. I then shoot 3 shots at 100 yards (using a tall piece of cardboard with a bullseye 3' above the center of the cardboard) and find out exactly where my rifle/scope combo is shooting. At that point I'll remove the scope and install the offset inserts of the proper offset (.005", .010" or .020") to bring the scope into boresighted alignment with the rifle - without touching the turrets. Once I get within 6", I'll finally use the turrets to fine tune my zero at 100 yards. At that point, I still have enough turret adj to get me to 900 yards.

"don't care where the parallax is" :
If you are going to shoot at long range distances (500 yds.), you will very definately want to have some sort of parallax adj. Unless you can keep your eyeball exactly centered in the scope for every shot, your bullets will hit in a huge circle even while you're thinking that the scope is "dead-nuts on" at the time of ignition. To see the effect, mount your rifle in a solid vise and look thru the scope at an object 100 yards away. If you move your eye around in a small back & forth or up & down motion, you will probably not notice very much crosshair movement on the target. Now aim the scope toward a more distant object (200 - 500 yds.) and repeat the eye movements. On any non-parallax adjustable scope you'll see the crosshair move quite a bit from side-to-side or up & down.:eek: Here lies the error by using non-adjustable scopes at over 100 yards.

6x-24x :
This is subjective - granted. I have found that my adjustable power scopes are very rarely used at the upper powers even while shooting prairie dogs at 400-1000 yards. I find that 14x-16x is an ideal compromise while being able to easily see those little grass eaters & not having heat waves (mirage) being a problem. At 18x and above the heat waves obscure the P.D.s and cause a miss. But that's my opinion and 2c worth.:cool:

JDGray
October 10, 2009, 05:42 PM
Quote:
ummmm yea.... i dont care where the adjustment is...

ya, he misunderstood you, and to be honest, so did i, but in our defense, you are wanting to shoot 500yds with a 223 so it was easy to think you didnt have any idea what you were after.
__________________


Yeah.....I miss understood:o

minnesotagunner
October 10, 2009, 07:11 PM
100 MOA :
Why limit yourself to just those scopes with 100 MOA or more? Did you know that a 55 gr. Sierra BlitzKing, at a modest 3000 fps, will only need 11.5 moa of turret cranking (assuming a 100 yd. zero) to be dead on? That means that any scope with 25 - 30 moa of total adjustment would suffice.
If you want to shoot at much farther distances like in the 800-900 yard range where you'll need to crank to 45 moa+/- then mount your scope with a 20 MOA base or, better yet, use Burris Signature Zee rings with the offset inserts to get your 20 MOA. I do this on all of my prairie dog rifles and I can dial in out to 900 yards (44 moa) using scopes that only have 60 moa of total elevation adjustment. I do this by dialing in 45-50 moa down from the upper limit of my elevation turret & centering the windage turret. I then shoot 3 shots at 100 yards (using a tall piece of cardboard with a bullseye 3' above the center of the cardboard) and find out exactly where my rifle/scope combo is shooting. At that point I'll remove the scope and install the offset inserts of the proper offset (.005", .010" or .020") to bring the scope into boresighted alignment with the rifle - without touching the turrets. Once I get within 6", I'll finally use the turrets to fine tune my zero at 100 yards. At that point, I still have enough turret adj to get me to 900 yards.

"don't care where the parallax is" :
If you are going to shoot at long range distances (500 yds.), you will very definately want to have some sort of parallax adj. Unless you can keep your eyeball exactly centered in the scope for every shot, your bullets will hit in a huge circle even while you're thinking that the scope is "dead-nuts on" at the time of ignition. To see the effect, mount your rifle in a solid vise and look thru the scope at an object 100 yards away. If you move your eye around in a small back & forth or up & down motion, you will probably not notice very much crosshair movement on the target. Now aim the scope toward a more distant object (200 - 500 yds.) and repeat the eye movements. On any non-parallax adjustable scope you'll see the crosshair move quite a bit from side-to-side or up & down.:eek: Here lies the error by using non-adjustable scopes at over 100 yards.

6x-24x :
This is subjective - granted. I have found that my adjustable power scopes are very rarely used at the upper powers even while shooting prairie dogs at 400-1000 yards. I find that 14x-16x is an ideal compromise while being able to easily see those little grass eaters & not having heat waves (mirage) being a problem. At 18x and above the heat waves obscure the P.D.s and cause a miss. But that's my opinion and 2c worth.:cool:
lol u miss understood the parallax too, but thanks. i was referring to the location of the parallax adjustment, either up front,on the side, or in the rear. I really do want to stick to the 223 tho. Im planning on using factory ammo at least for a while and will more than likely shoot anywhere from 100 to 800, i havent seen much larger areas than that around here. I like the 10x because then i can use my mils the correct way and id like to to try and shooting at semi lower powers also.

minnesotagunner
October 10, 2009, 07:13 PM
ya, he misunderstood you, and to be honest, so did i, but in our defense, you are wanting to shoot 500yds with a 223 so it was easy to think you didnt have any idea what you were after.
well, i know 223 can be pushed a lot further than 500 yards and still do well. most people would say 22lr is only good for 100 but i finally started having trouble when i was at 400 and my scope ran out of adjustment for the 400 yard target. didnt even mess with windage but it was blow out of the view of the scope too

minnesotagunner
October 10, 2009, 07:17 PM
I guess I still don't understand. Usually 500 yards? Sometimes? Usually 100 or 200 yards?

If you want to shoot long range most of the time, you should buy a rifle made for that. Something with a bench style stock, fatter barrel, heavier gun. The tikka lite looks to me like it's made for hunting at normal hunting ranges (nothing wrong with that).

500 yard shots? I know I'd need a higher-end target-style scope to try shots like that. With parallax adjustment. And that's going to cost a lot of money, but it is a necessary investment.

Just a couple of things to think about, and good luck! Let us know what you decide.
The reason im thinking the tikka is because ive heard nothing but good about it and ive handled one before, and the action is amazing. I dont really use my rifles for just one thing, so setting up a benchrest gun that i will probably use out in the field to may not work very well. The super sniper scope, from what i hear, is an amazing steal for its price. I guess i was more thinking about where i want the parallax adjustment at.

Juice Boxes
October 11, 2009, 09:58 PM
we shoot 600 yds service rifle every couple Wednesdays through a-2 iron sights a bolt gun with a scope should have no problem pushin a .223 that far

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