Need Help Choosing Gun Safe


October 11, 2009, 08:25 PM
I need help selecting a gun safe. I am in the $300-$500 range. I understand this is definitely on the low side. I am willing to give up some fire protection for added steel. I definitely want a combination lock- I don't trust cheap electronics. I am looking to store 6 long-arms with various optics, so I think I'm in the 10-15 gun safe range.

I have looked at Wal-Martís Lokarms 11 CU safe, but have yet to find 1 review. I think it's good, but I have no idea.

I'm not sure if I want to avoid Stack-on or not.

One final consideration is I live in a 3rd floor apartment, so anything bought will have to be carried up 3 flights of stairs, but I have 3-4 strong guys willing to help.

I'd love to hear what you guys have in this price range.

Thanks for the Help,

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October 11, 2009, 08:55 PM
I recommend the Sam's Club Winchester safe as the only way to go(Note the SCW's are usually only around about Oct - Dec)! You may find a scratch and dent model around if you're lucky. I just found a scratched Liberty for $800 at Menard's (reg $1,050), but it's still slightly smaller than the Winchester safe eventhough it may be a better safe.

October 11, 2009, 09:07 PM
Centurion Safe by Liberty. 14 long gun capacity and fire-protected for 20 minutes. Can be moved by 2-3 guys. Sold at Lowes for $397.

Shadow 7D
October 11, 2009, 09:59 PM
There is a safe specialist on THR ab1 something

But you might be interested to learn that many safes are imported by GRANITE in Texas, and they come from *** CHINA, and are basically stack-ons. Any gunsafe is a Residential Security Container, anything that will be a "Gunsafe" won't really stop a determined burglar.

There is a safe that is made from 1/4 steel and is disassemblable, I forget the name, not cheap, like 2-3 K but will stop hand tools, Your basic "gunsafe" uses wall board as fireproofing, also an intersting article around here somewhere about what that means.

You have to understand how the safe was tested, is the 1300F the peak tempature or the testing temp, in that the time started when the safe went into the oven, or started when the oven reached 1300F. Was the safe laying down, which would give a better result, or was it standing, if standing was the temp taken at the top (much hotter) or in the bottom (much cooler, could be over 200F cooler)

Finally, what do you want the safe for, some fire protection and keeping honest people out ("gunsafe"), Fire protection (fire safe, fire Vault, most true safes), or burglary protection (gun vault, gun room properly constructed, true vault).

Most "gunsafe"s could be built at your local sheet metal shop from 10GA for less than $100, installing the "safe" locking system would cost you about $300, unless you do it yourself, then it's just parts.

My point is that most "gunsafe"s give a false sense of security, and can be easily defeated by someone in little time and a little knowledge. So know what you want before you buy something and then learn more and regret it.

October 11, 2009, 10:38 PM
I would first check with your local locksmiths who sell safes, or more correctly, Residential Security Containers. He might have nice used ones from someone who traded one in on an upgrade.

el gato
October 12, 2009, 02:43 PM
Fort Knox

October 12, 2009, 02:56 PM
300-500 isn't going to get you much. I would save up more money and buy one later. In the meantime, do allot of research.

October 12, 2009, 04:33 PM
The big question is what are you really trying to do with it? If you are just trying to keep little ones out of the guns, the one you linked is fine. It'll probably stop most burglaries too.

If the people breaking in know you are out of town and don't have an alarm, they might take their time to actually get into the thing though. Everyone says it isn't hard, but I'm guessing most haven't tried.

Shadow 7D
October 12, 2009, 11:33 PM
Um, if by time you mean all two minutes, then yes...

I don't like posting the links, but search youtube or google videos and there are plenty of examples of how to open a safe. Hard is not damaging anything, easy much less time.

October 13, 2009, 04:17 AM
Buy 2 small safes in stead of one big one, their easer to move and you can bolt them togeather

October 13, 2009, 11:20 AM
In these cases, I still think a dead bolted closet or a cheap sheet metal cabinet is the best option. A burglar who will not attack a safe will not attack it regardless of how well built it is. Usually because they do not have the tools. A burglar who will attack a safe, will easily open one of these $400-$500 units, making it useless. A deadbolt or cabinet will keep children out.

Let's put that $400 or $500 safe into perspective.

A manufacturer in China has to buy all of the materials, machinery, and real estate to build these things. They have to pay utility bills, and hire slaves to build them.

After they are built, they have to be transported to the port, loaded onto ships, and transported all the way here to the US. Somewhere in all of this, the manufacturer has to mark up the product to make a profit.

Once here in the US the are unloaded at the port then placed on trucks or trains to be transported to those that import them. They are then distributed, and transported to the retailers that sell them. Somewhere in all of this, the importers and/or retailers mark up the product to make a profit.

How much do you think it really cost to build that $400 safe? $20? $50?

Guns and more
October 13, 2009, 10:17 PM
1. Any safe is better than no safe.
2. Get one twice as big as you think you need. They fill up.
3. It's a purchase you will never regret.

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