[P12]

I decided to mix a batch of Ed's Red.

Where can I find deodorized kerosene?

[Rottweiler]

I've always used plain old K-1 kerosene for mixing Ed's red. I never found the smell of kerosene all that offensive though.

[308win]

You can usually find deodorized kerosene at hardware stores that sell the kerosene space heaters.

[P12]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I don't mind the smell of kerosene so much but wanted to minimize the odor. I'm actually going to mix it without the acetone (my grips are plastic) and use power steering fluid instead of trans. fluid. I CANNOT stand the smell of transmission fluid. I work in a shop and I hate that smell almost as bad as a poor running diesel engine. Power steering fluid has no odor that I can tell.

I'll let you guys know how well it works. I clean my gun after each IDPA shoot and it's not oiled or cleaned until after the next shoot. I shoot once a month right now. I have tried several lubes and they turned sticky before completing the shoot. I'm going to see how this works out. The best I found so far is engine oil. But it has a strong odor also.

Thanks again for the input.

[QuarterBoreGunner]

I have to ask; what's 'Ed's Red'?

[P12]

Ed's Red (http://www.shotgunreport.com/Articles/EdRed.html)

[Dr.Rob]

Ed's red is a mighty good bore cleaner. Gets out stuff that Hoppes doesn't (if you get an old surplus rifle with a dark looking bore).

Cheaper to make overall than buying hoppes.

[Dave Markowitz]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that odorless lamp oil is basically deoderized kerosene.

I used regular K1 when I made up my batch of ER and frankly, the stuff reeks. It cleans powder fouling as well as any commercial stuff I've used, but Hoppe's, Shooter's Choice or Sweet's 7.62 (talk about REEKING) do a much better job of removing copper fouling.

Also, I've found that ER does not do well on neutralizing corrosive primer residue, while on the other hand Hoppe's will.

Due to the stench I've gravitated back to using Hoppe's No.9, which actually smells good. I still have a good amount of ER which I'll eventually use up. BTW, it works really good on bicycle chains. :)

[Jim Watson]

It takes ammonia to chemically remove copper. All the brands named (by Dave) contain ammonia, though in non-aqueous solution to prevent corrosion.

Ed Harris says Ed's Red will remove corrosive primer residue. (You don't "neutralize" it, it is a salt to begin with.) I dunno, it contains no water to dissolve the potassium chloride, although he has a version, Ed's Pink, that does. Hoppe's No 9 will not handle corrosive primers. You need WW II - Korea GI bore cleaner, black powder cleaner, Windex, or just water to do a good job.