[Bill Hook]

I have an Enfield rifle with a staked screw that has been buggered up during its life and needs to come off to get the action out.

The stock and nosecap can't be damaged, since they're numbered and in nice shape.

Screwhead is a regular and i can't get any torque on it and only made it worse.

[yesterdaysyouth]

well you could start with cutting the slot again with a cold chisel, then trying to crank it out again, i do reccommend an impact screwdriver and pen oil this time though....

if that doesn't work next i'd drill the head off the screw, pull off the receiver and then remove it however necessary...

[Hkmp5sd]

Similar to this....
http://us.st7.yimg.com/store4.yimg.com/I/toolsplus_1764_29713834

[dfariswheel]

There may be an even easier way than the standard "Easy out".
Sears sells a new screw removal kit that uses special screwdriver-like bits that have "cutter-like" teeth.
You turn the bit with a screwdriver handle or in a drill press. The "teeth" bite into the screw, and turn it out.

The advantage of this kit is, it doesn't require drilling a hole in a small gun screw, and it's very effective.

Whatever method you use, FIRST try soaking the screw in a good penetrating fluid like Kroil, then chuck a good-fitting screwdriver bit into a drill press.
Make sure the press is unplugged, and use the press to hold the bit firmly into the screw slot, and absolutely SQUARE with the screw head.
Turn the quill with a rod, and often the screw will come right out.

[Bill Hook]

I got it guys, but keep posting if you have other techniques, since this is searchable for future users and enhances our edification.

I did cut the slot deeper, but I used a diamond dremel tip (watch out for "chatter" doing this and hold with one hand and apply guidance and counterpressure w/ the other hand). The screw is junk, but GPC is sending me some more. I also applied penetrating oil and used a punch to tap it counterclockwise a few times, but I didn't see it move. It did move when I started at it w/ a screwdriver again, albeit fitfully, necessitating more cutting, as the groove started to deform.

Thanks to all.

[Jim K]

The main problem in removal of a battered screw is that you often can't put enough pressure on the screwdriver to keep it from riding up out of the slot, making things worse.

So here is a way that works most of the time if you have a drill press.

Get a short screwdriver bit, like those sold with power drivers or one handle screwdriver sets and cut the blade part as short as possible.

Then, chuck the stubby bit in the drill press, and lock the drill press table at a convenient height. Pad the table if necessary, and get help to hold the gun, also if necessary. (You can't hold a rifle out straight while working on the nosecap, for example.) Use the drill press vise as appropriate.

Then, bring the chuck down, turning the chuck by hand and moving the work to get the bit blade into the screw slot. Put on pressure, then lock the press down (or hold it with the handle if there is no lock). Turn the chuck by hand (NO POWER IN THIS OPERATION!) to remove the screw. Sometimes, it is necessary to work the chuck back and forth to "bump" the screw. If needed, a rod can be inserted into a chuck key hole to provide better leverage.

This will not always work, but I have had a lot of success with it and it avoids drilling out the screw, which always has the potential to cause further problems.

BTW, the same technique works with frozen nipples in percussion guns, except that the cylindrical part of the nipple wrench is placed in the chuck instead of the screwdriver bit. Works like a champ with revolver nipples, but be sure to pad the cylinder well before putting it into the drill press vise. Alternatively, get two brass pins of chamber diameter, put them in the vise at a distance between the widest chambers and drop the cylinder over them. This will keep the cylinder from turning without the possibility of marring the cylinder scene.

Jim

[Greg L]

One thing that I didn't see mentioned much but that works for me is to tighten the screw slightly. Usually that side of the screw head isn't messed up so your screwdriver can get a good grip. By tightening it slightly you break the bond that was formed before and it is usually easier to remove after.

Greg

[Jim K]

Correct, Greg. That often works if the screw can be moved at all. You might note that I mentioned moving the drill press chuck back and forth (clockwise, then counterclockwise) to "bump" the screw, something like what you said.

Jim