Lee R.E.A.L. Molds


November 12, 2009, 06:05 PM
I am thinking of buying one of these molds but I would like to get some feedback from anybody who has one or has fired one of these rounds thru there rifle.

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November 12, 2009, 08:25 PM
I don't know or remember right offhand about this R.E.A.L. stuff you throwed in there, but Lee molds are good. I own three. .31--.451--.457. I don't ever use them but I got them from Cabela's years ago and I keep them put away here just for an emergency situation. It make's me feel better having them in reserve with the way things are nowadays. (and getting worse). The reason I know they are good is because I have a lifelong friend down in Alabama who uses one for his '58. (.451) He really like's it Bigbadgun. I'm not sure but I think he buy's (or used to anyway) a lot of his lead from Cabela's to. (Don't quote me on that but he bought it from some catalog company) I do know he got his mold, a melting pot, a heater, and some other stuff concerning making his own .451's from Cabela's....

November 12, 2009, 08:46 PM
save yer money I have three different cal REAL molds. aint worth crap.

November 12, 2009, 08:59 PM
Hmm GOTC I have 3 round ball molds .454, .490, and .380 I am thinking of the REAL mold or maybe a .50 Minnie I want more feed back.
As far as lead the best line I can get on lead is on ebay at about a dollar a pound with shipping. I have 55 pounds now but I am gonna be doing a major pour in the next couple weeks.

November 12, 2009, 09:14 PM
Bigbdgun, I PM'd you back my friend...Well, I really can't help you buddy. You know I would if I could. I just don't know much about all of that....

November 12, 2009, 09:20 PM
No Bigbadgun, on second thought I'll wait until I might happen to see a few more posts before I send him into exile! Might be a pretty savvy man. We'll see. Will you explain this R.E.A.L. mold to me? Anybody, you or Zimmerstutzen or anybody. I am totally unfamiliar with what ya'll mean....

November 12, 2009, 09:39 PM
stands for
The mold can be seen here.
If they work it is a great idea. And this is why I am looking into this.

November 12, 2009, 10:03 PM
I've had good luck with mine. It's a .50 cal 250 grain. I use it for a crappy old CVA sidelock that I could never get to shoot worth a darn with patched balls. With the REAL it shoots probably 6" groups at 100 yards. Still not great, but good enough to kill a deer. I'd like to try it in a better gun one of these days to see how it does.

It casts pretty consistent bullets, not as good as my Brooks mould but then again it costs a whole lot less. Since they're made of aluminum they heat up very fast, and you can start casting good bullets right away. I'm sure they're not as durable as a higher quality mould, but for $20 or so you can afford to replace it if it wears out in 10 years. Plus, they're so cheap if it doesn't work out for you you're not out a whole lot of money, like if you had spent $150 on a high quality mould.

If you want I could send you a dozen or bullets to try out, before you buy one.

November 13, 2009, 05:45 AM
My CVA Hawkens shoots nice groups with round ball but I like the idea of not needing to swab the pipe down after every shot. That is more the reasoning and if the hold good groups also hey bonus. Thanks alemonkey I sent you a pm.

November 13, 2009, 05:57 AM
I've got quite a few Lee molds & they are well worth the money IMHO.

I do have a R.E.A.L. mold in .50 caliber 320gr. & it molds a sweet bullet that has lots of down range punch but like all bullet & rifle combinations you'd have to work out the charge to where it likes it for best accurate performance.
My Lyman Trade Rifle doesn't seem to like the Lee R.E.A.L. bullet all that much but my CVA Bobcat really shines with it out to 120 yards "farthest I've shot it" with 75gr. FFFG Goex & 50/50 Crisco/Bees Wax lube in the groves.

If you buy one & start molding your own remember two things.
(1) use as pure of lead that you can get because just like the letters mean it does engrave the rifling apaun loading & any lead that is harder will make loading quite hard.
(2) while molding the lead in Lee's molds smack the bolt hinge not the mold, the mold being made of Aluminum will start to deform if you hit it too many times & eventually could make it not close correctly "don't ask how I know this." :rolleyes:

Like Alemonkey I too can send you a few if you'd like to try out, 2 different weights what luck would that be?

November 13, 2009, 06:26 AM
Voodoochile that would be great do you still have my address or do you need me to send it to you?
Hmm 250 grain or 320 grain that would be sweet that way I can test in my inline and my old Hawken

November 13, 2009, 11:46 AM
Yes still have your address, & they'll be out Monday "hunting tomorow."

Marlin 45 carbine
November 13, 2009, 12:15 PM
as #8 & #10 I've had good luck with the REAL slug in my .50 CVA 1-48 twist.
over about 75gr 3F groups begin to open up however. I have shot off a rest near 1" groups with 60 grs 3F @ 50 yds with this slug. a felt overpowder tightens groups some. it's important to use as pure soft lead as possible to cast and lube well the slug.

November 13, 2009, 01:26 PM
I'll try to send you a few of the 250's this afternoon if I get some time.

November 13, 2009, 01:27 PM
I'm using the REAL 250 in my 77/50s. It's nice not having to brush the bore every other shot. The other nice fact is I always have ammo in stock now. I hated going to the supplier only to see that they changed what they are pushing.

November 13, 2009, 02:18 PM
The REAL bullets are made with, as I recall, four bearing bands to seal the bore, and three wide grease grooves. They are very blunted at the nose, and a have lousey ballistic coefficient. The problem is that in some rifles, the rear bands don't really seal the bore and the wider front band is tough to get pushed down past the muzzle crown. so you end up with a conical that can be slightly canted in the bore already before the powder is ignited. Add to that the obturation and you could have the base melting for lack of sealing the bore. Accuracy goes to heck real fast. I found that they are terrible in a barrel made for PRB's. the rifling is too deep and the bullet just doesn't seal the grooves. Perhaps in one of those 1:48 shallower groove barrels it would do better. Frankly a 6 inch group at one hundred yards would be a average to lousey offhand group for me. Off a bench I would expect a 2 inch even from a smooth bore.

If you consider a miniie ball, Keep in mind that a minnie bullet is extremely sensitive to powder charges and anything over about 60 or 70 grains may well blow out the skirt of the hollow base minnie and ruin any chance at accuracy.

November 13, 2009, 03:04 PM
Ale and Voodoo thanks guys great bunch of folks on this forum. Zimmer I do thank you for the input and hey if you have a R.E.A.L. mold in .50 that you dont use if you want to part with it heck let me know.

November 13, 2009, 05:59 PM
Zimmerstutzen..THAT'S what I was waiting to hear. I didn't know anything about this R.E.A.L. stuff so I have been on several different forums today researching. Also talked to 2 different product specialists at Cabela's. Everyone told me that if I was going to use them to watch out for pretty well what you just got through posting here. I won't ever use them anyway. I buy my sabots for my inlines from Cabela's and my inlines are all the rifles I'll ever shoot anyway....

November 13, 2009, 06:26 PM
I'm more of a PRB type myself so anything beyond 100 yards is walkin for me to see another day but I bought my R.E.A.L mold some time ago to give it a try & since my Bobcat really likes it I tend to keep a few molded for just that rifle.

November 13, 2009, 07:12 PM
If the REAL fits well, it will shoot well. If it fits loose, then Zimmer's description would apply to any bullet.
If heat from the burning powder can pass up the base of any cast lead bullet, what he describes will happen. Hot gasses will melt the lead and blow it past the bullet where it can plate onto the bore with combustion byproducts. It can't be accurate if that happens.
If any bullet can engrave the rifling enough to avoid slipping, but not be too tight, then a gas seal can be made to fit over the powder to prevent hot gasses from searing the bullet. Wool, paper, grease cookies, plastic bases that look like cup seals from a car's brake cylinder....whatever.
REAL is a short bullet that should out perform a round ball in medium to slow twist rifles. If you can find the right seal, lube and load combination. :scrutiny:
I'm mostly interested in 54 caliber, so I have Lee mini balls, T/C Maxi-Balls, Hornady Great plains, whatever I see at the black powder shop if it interests me.
I have Lee REAL molds for 50 and 58, but have not tried them yet. The 50 is the lighter of the 2 choices, it's for my Trapper pistol kit, which I haven't finished yet. The 58 is for my Cabelas Interarms Hawken, which has only been shot with Patched Round Balls so far...So sorry I can't give any feedback.
My point is that any cast bullet can suffer from gas cutting, not just the REAL, so get someone to send you a fistfull to try. Heck, it'll be fun and you might learn something. ;)

November 13, 2009, 09:20 PM
If you use REAL,PLEASE buy a range rod,and don't use your hickory wipeing stick to load with, I STILL have the scar.

November 13, 2009, 09:43 PM
I use the 250gr in my Kodiak Dbl rifle with 1/48 twist and the 320 in my inline with a 1/28 twist. Easy to load and very good accuracy.

November 13, 2009, 10:41 PM
Haven't tried the real bullet but do use the Lee .58 mini ball in my Zouve, I like them.
If I found some of the real I'd try them they look like they should do the job, be worth a try.

November 13, 2009, 10:45 PM
I have the larger of the two .54 R.E.A.L. molds (which means I forget what the grain weight is right now). :p

I have found them to be very accurate in my Pedersoli Jager, which has a faster twist than a strictly round-ball gun. :D

Thing is though, that the PRB and the R.E.A.L. group in pretty much the same spot. :scrutiny:

That means, I am very happy with the R.E.A.L. mold. I use the Alox Lube on them and do not seem to have any problem with the bullet not centering, either.

Bottom line, it might be a crap shoot. Some people praise them, some don't.
You'll never know until you try!

The Doc is out now. :cool:

November 14, 2009, 12:26 PM
Thank you ShipChief..Good post sir....

November 14, 2009, 07:51 PM
Have one use it all the time. CVA buckhorn. .50 cal. No problems at all i use soft lead for casting and i lube them with a mixture of beeswax and olive oil. The only thing after that was developing a load that worked. i started off high and worked my way down. 90 grains of Goex 2ffg black seems to work best. Winchester 209 primer. I havent done much paper shooting. so i can not tell you how well it groups. I shoot steel mostly. i can tell you without a doubt 100 yards i hit steel all the time. Not one miss. So with that can i say it works. It works very well for me. Real bullet works i have the mold i make the bullets and i shoot them. I do not have a problem with the bands not doing what they are supposed to. same time it would be pretty hard to say the bands did not expand once the gun is fired. i guess you can ask the bullet and see what it will tell you. most info after that will be personal experience in my personal experience it works. i dont need to get scientific data after that. Like most bullets once you get one you have to tailor it to the gun. I have had bullets that i just could not get anything worth a plug nickel. However the .50 real bullet mold works. i have about 100 made ready to go and once they get low i will cast some more. and stick to what i know works.

Black Toe Knives
November 15, 2009, 12:08 AM
I have a Lee REAL 50 Cal mold. I Love mine. It bring in to 1 to 2 inch groups at 50 yards.
It How I how I do Organically Raised Free Range Meat.

November 15, 2009, 12:27 AM
About loading slugs:
Get the cheap "Trophy Bullet Starter" Or just make one...
It's a plastic T shape, that has the short starter on one end of the 'T' and a hole on the other end that fits over my ram rod.
So set the bullet on the muzzle. It should fit in a bit because the REAL is smaller at the base. Once you start the bullet with the short end, then push it down deeper with the long end, you put in the ram rod, and if the push is a bit stiff, place the hollow end of the starter over the top of the ram rod. It provides a lot more comfortable grip, and I feel safer, way to seat the charge.
I have no commercial interest etc..I just think this thing works well.
I suppose you could drill a hole in a standard 'ball' shaped bullet starter to do the same thing, it would just be a knob to push the ram rod with instead of a sideways Tee.

November 15, 2009, 07:12 AM
Ok now here is a R.E.A.L. stupid question as far as lubing the slug how does everyone do it by hand or by lubing dies.

November 15, 2009, 07:56 AM
Ok now here is a R.E.A.L. stupid question as far as lubing the slug how does everyone do it by hand or by lubing dies.

I normally pan lube mine with 50/50 Crisco & Bees Wax but I have also used the Lee Liquid Alox on them as well.

November 15, 2009, 08:03 AM
Thanks Voodoo it seems I am getting more positive feed back about the Real bullets than negative as soon as I recieve the samples I am gonna get down to the range and give em a try and if I can get a bunch of shots without swabbing the brl then I am gonna get me some more molds. And it seems that the Real bullets work just as well in inline slow twist as they do in fast twist sidelocks. Which is a bonus because my Blazer and my hawkens are both .50

November 15, 2009, 08:19 AM
Well, I don't use that stuff and really don't have a right to say anything, but I'm going with Zimmerstutzen on this one. Besides, what is a hundred yards? Hell, 100 yards or less I reach for my Cattleman's Carbine or my Walker. Sometimes my '58 if he don't weigh too much and isn't out there to the full 100. The product specialists I spoke with at Cabela's said the REAL would work and that some people had good luck with it but that lot's of people experienced great difficulty. Well, I know one thing. I'm not about to shoot any type of firearm where I have to guess and hope that I'm going to hit what I'm trying to shoot at. Don't worry, I haven't forgotten about a few weeks ago when some of you insinuated that I was lying when I told ya'll about my neighbor taking her scoped up Traditons Vortek and shooting a half dollar size group at 200 yards. Well, she done it and my scoped up .45 Traditions and my scoped up .45 CVA will do the same thing all day long. I'vd got a .45 Remington leaning up over here in the corner which I highly suspect will do it to....Anyway, that's off the subject. Cabela's said they would work but that one must be careful about lot's of stuff, ie powder load etc. I was researching because Bigbadgun had aroused my interest since I'd never heard of it....

November 15, 2009, 08:30 AM
As soon as I get the samples I am gonna post the range report right here on this thread

November 15, 2009, 08:38 AM
I hope it work's good for you Bigbadgun. It should just as long as you're careful about it. I figure they wouldn't have it on the market if it didn't work.

November 15, 2009, 08:48 AM
Two questions for those of you who shoot the R.E.A.L bullets. First, what size revolver bullet would you recommend for a WALKER? And B. I shoot a GPR and think the twist is 1:66(or 60 I can't remember) The rifle loves PRB and puts 295 gr. Powerbelts in a paper plate at 100 yds. Would the R.E.A.L work in a slow twist barrel? Thanks!:)

November 15, 2009, 10:07 AM
Two questions for those of you who shoot the R.E.A.L bullets. First, what size revolver bullet would you recommend for a WALKER? And B. I shoot a GPR and think the twist is 1:66(or 60 I can't remember) The rifle loves PRB and puts 295 gr. Powerbelts in a paper plate at 100 yds. Would the R.E.A.L work in a slow twist barrel? Thanks!

I would recomend one of the conicals that I sell .456 220gr. Lee conical for your Walker because they tend to like a .454 ball & they load very well in those big pistols, but I have heard of others having good luck with the Lee .45 caliber R.E.A.L. bullets too.

A 1:66 twist rifle like on the GPR is really optimum for PRB but with some patience in tayloring a load for the rifle & projectile combination almost any projectile can give relatively acceptable hunting accuracy at 100 yards, the only thing I can say is give em a try.

Acorn Mush
November 15, 2009, 11:56 AM
I shoot a GPR and think the twist is 1:66(or 60 I can't remember) The rifle loves PRB and puts 295 gr. Powerbelts in a paper plate at 100 yds. Would the R.E.A.L work in a slow twist barrel?

Messerist, I have a 20+ year-old .50 caliber GPR that now wears a Green Mountain barrel. The original barrel (1-66" twist) would put 5 R.E.A.L. 250-grain bullets into a 7/8" center-to-center group at 50 yards off the bench using 85 grains GOEX 3f and no overpowder wad. Bullets were lubed with Crisco. Note that my eyes were much better back then.:D

Bigbadgun, good luck with your trials of the R.E.A.L. bullets. The only way you will know for sure if your rifle likes them is to flop down into a solid rest position and give 'em a try.

Good luck!

November 15, 2009, 12:38 PM
use good,soft lead.

November 15, 2009, 12:39 PM
Like I said just as soon as I get my hands on em LOL.
Hell might call in sick to work the day I get em so I can go try them.

November 15, 2009, 01:38 PM
BHP Yeah I have about 55lbs of lead ingots that I can scratch with my finger nail.
I have been very careful to make sure I dont get the alloy stuff.

November 15, 2009, 01:51 PM
I have REAL molds in 45,50 and 54 caliber plus the Improved Mini in 50 and 54 caliber. They all shoot fine in my 1/48 twist barrels. I use the 200gr 45 in my rifle. I haven't tried the 250gr in the 45. It seems like after 50-60 yards the point of impact diverges from the round ball. Most RB loads shoot 1600+ fps and most of the conicals will be around 1300fps so different POI are to be expected.

The Lyman GPR has a 1/60 twist. Mine shoots the hollow base improved mini very well. I haven't tried the REAL in the GPR.

A little off topic but if you have a 36 caliber you might want to try some of the hollow base wad cutters for 38 special target loads. I used to shoot these in my T/C Seneca with a 1/30 twist before I stupidly sold it and have been shooting them in my new Traditions Shenandoah with a 1/48 twist. I rub a little home made bore butter in the base and use 30grs of 2f powder.

I have never heard of anyone else doing this but it works fine. I believe it would kill a deer just as well as anything else.

November 15, 2009, 07:03 PM
I wonder how the REAL would work with a lubed wad underneath it? I may have to give that a try on my next trip to the range. I found a few people on Google who had good results with wads. If there is a problem with gas cutting because the lower bands aren't sealing that might help.

I was at Cabelas in Kansas City yesterday and they had the .50 cal target Minie in stock. I think it's around 340 grains or so. I had a $10 off coupon so I picked it up just to see how it shoots. It's quite a bit longer than the 250 grain REAL and is basically a full wadcutter design, just a cylinder with a hollow base at one end. I'm going to cast some up tonight and hopefully get to the range next weekend.

November 15, 2009, 07:53 PM
I have one in .45 caliber. It shoots quite well but my only complaint is that the grooves are so shallow that it is not practical to pre-lube them. I have to lube each one as I use it. No really big problem but just a tiny minor pain in the butt. I still like shooting them. I have no trouble molding them so if you want to buy such a mold, you might want to consider the double mold with one round ball and one REAL mold. That way, if you like the REAL bullet, you can make all you want. If you don't, you still have the other side of the mold in which you can make round balls. It is cheaper than buying two single cavity molds.

November 15, 2009, 07:58 PM
as far as lubing panning or hand lubing you do not put them through a sizer With most black powder bullets. Sizing is a no no. as you need them to be a tad bigger as when you ram the bullet home you are sizing it to the barrel. ITs actually pretty easy. as far as pan lubing i take out my tupperware of my bullet lube. nuke it in the microwave for a minute or two. Then use a needle nose pliars and dip the bullet in the tupperware. then put it on wax paper. i do this to all of them. then put them in a box and keep in a cool dry place as my lube is 50-50 beeswax and olive oil.

November 15, 2009, 09:56 PM
scrat, my pan lubing technique is a little different but with the same results sorta.

I have an old round aluminum Baking pan that I place all the bullets in evenly spaced.
Then I heat my 50/50 BeesWax & Crisco in a 16oz. glass & then pour it on top of the bullets & let sit till the lube is solid.
Then I take the lube cake out of the pan & puch the bullets through the lube where the entire grove of the bullet is filled with the lube.

November 15, 2009, 11:09 PM
OK im itchin to try these damn things.:banghead:

November 15, 2009, 11:24 PM
what caliber i got .50 pm me your address i can send you some. you want me to lube or not.

November 16, 2009, 05:55 PM
Thank you for the 250 grain R.E.A.L. bullets just got them this afternoon.

November 16, 2009, 07:17 PM
No problem. Who knows, if they work well for you and the Minie works better for me I'd be willing to sell the REAL mould cheap. I hope to try my new Minies this weekend.

November 16, 2009, 07:25 PM
WOW I just sent mine out today, should get to you later this week, sorry for the delay bud.

November 16, 2009, 07:37 PM
Voodoo no problem I was surprised to get ale monkeys so fast.
Ale sure let me know about that mold. I am gonna try to get some trigger time this weekend. So I am gonna post as soon as I get to the range.

November 16, 2009, 07:51 PM
You have 16 pre lubed 320gr. Lee R.E.A.L. Bullets coming your way.

November 16, 2009, 08:13 PM
Thanks voodoo

November 17, 2009, 06:08 PM
Well, I wish you'd hurry up and go shoot them and quit worrying me about it!!!!....(!!) Hi there my friend....

November 17, 2009, 07:15 PM
GotC you know as soon as I have a day to go burn some charcol I am there I am really trying to get out there Sunday

November 17, 2009, 11:56 PM
GOTC you ole coot how are you.

November 18, 2009, 07:52 AM
Scrat, doing alright I guess. Just hanging around in front of this propane heater and keeping the coffee pot and pipe tobacco close to hand. How are you doing?....

November 20, 2009, 09:49 AM
Voodoo I got the 16 Thanks range report as soon as possible.

November 21, 2009, 10:23 AM
cool cant wait for the Range report. Doing very well GOTC

November 21, 2009, 11:10 AM
hi guys ... just joined to day , as the real bullets engage the rifling at loading , just ramming them down the barrel the rifling could cut through the side of the bullet as it might not be turning with the rifling , i would have thought that they had to turn with the rifling on loading ,if i was using r.e.a.l. bullets i would use a spinjag on the end of the loading rod see link , i"v bought 2 spinjags .45 cal & .58 cal but i"v not tried them yet so can"t say if they are any good ,


November 21, 2009, 12:33 PM
Army of 1 welcome to THR

November 23, 2009, 09:22 PM
Well, BBG, it looks like I'll be keeping the REAL mould. I broke down and bought an inline this weekend (CVA Wolf) and it shoots pretty good with the REAL and 80 grains of Pyrodex. I used a lubed wad under the bullet and it seemed to like that - in fact, it shot better with a wad and no lube in the grooves than it did with a lubed bullet. The Minie shoots horrible in both my sidelock and my inline. We're talking 6-8" groups at 50 yards with the inline, and not even on the paper with the sidelock. It's a really small bullet though, it measure about .490. I may need to play with some more loads to see if I can get it to obdurate enough to seal the bore.

November 23, 2009, 09:37 PM
I run .490 round balls with a .010 lubed patch in my hawken and it loves it and thats 65-70 grains.

November 23, 2009, 09:42 PM
My normal load in my Lyman Trade Rifle is a .495 Ball with .018 Pillow Ticking & 70gr. FFFG Goex.

November 23, 2009, 10:28 PM
Thats a tight fit isent it Voodoo

November 23, 2009, 11:54 PM
I have a lot of cotton tee shirts that are worn out. I usually cut them up for cleaning patches, but I was wondering if anyone uses them for patch material?
Do old Black Harley tee shirts shoot better than plain white ones?:evil:

November 24, 2009, 05:40 AM
Thats a tight fit isent it Voodoo

Yeah it's a little tight but she is real accurate & tends to like that.

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