[editingfx]

So I've got my turret running just about slick as a whistle EXCEPT for the darn primer arm. (Small primer, the one that has the small hook that hangs on the post inside the ram, and has a spring-loaded primer cup.) It has a VERY annoying tendency to "hang up", sort of stuck in the primer pocket, when I raise the ram. Then when the ram gets to the top of travel, the darn thing falls out of the ram, hits the floor, and the last time it did it, cracked the arm. I've tried lubricants, but then loose powder gums up inside the ram, around the arm. I tried sanding the last arm sides with 600 grit sandpaper. I'm about to take a Dremel tool to the new one & chamfer the edges, but thought I'd ask here first.

Anyone have a fix?

UPDATE - see post #23 for my fix

[JDGray]

That priming system stinks. I use my Lee hand primer, and batch prime my cases.;)

I use my turret to mass produce handgun ammo only, minus the sizing step, that is.

[Uncle Chan]

I love my Lee Classic Turret. But, I don't like the priming system. So, I bought an RCBS Automatic Bench Priming Tool. I can't imagine reloading without it.

[Walkalong]

I hand prime with a RCBS priming tool. I've been doing it that way for well over 20 years. Started with a Lee tool, but switched to the RCBS.

[angus6]

check inside the cutout in the ram and see if there is a tiny burr , once you get the hang up cured you'll find that it's a very smooth and easy to use system

[delta5]

Is the primer cup hanging up on the bottom of the shellholder, or the side of the arm hanging up in the slot? You might want to call Lee. I had some problems with a replacement primer arm that was out of spec.

[Noveldoc]

I find it very hard to gauge when a primer is seated right. I got some slam fires when rifle primers for my M1 were seated too shallow.

And the things will bend under pressure. I use my Lee hand primer.

Son sizes the case and then hands off to me for a quick hand prime. Then back for the next 2 stations. We get good output.

Tom

[GRIZ22]

Never liked priming arms on presses. I've used Lee Hand Priming tool, RCBS priming press, and RCBS Priming tool.

[editingfx]

Is the primer cup hanging up on the bottom of the shellholder, or the side of the arm hanging up in the slot?

Near as I can tell, it appears to be hanging in the shellholder. Maybe I'll run the Dremel around the hole of the shellholder.

[jfh]

I have updated my older turret to the Classic 4-die configuration with the updated ram and primer arms. I find that mine accumulates crud buildup on the back of the priming arm, and sometimes on the sides. That crud buildup on the back pushes the arm forward, causing it to hang up on the forward edge of the shell holder. Sometimes, I also have a buildup on the sides of the arm as well.

The solution for me is to simply remove the primer arm and clean it completely with gun scrubber, and being sure to scrub off the back. Similarly, I clean out the slot with a gunsmith's swab. Then I apply a tiny drop of oil to the inside of of the arm's pivit notch, and away we go.

FWIW, I suspect a correlation with how dirty one's loads are--that is, I have cleaned my brass (standard vibration routine, at least two-three hours) before re-loading, but I suspect that does not remove detrius in the primer pocket very well.

Overall, the safety prime and primer arm work well for me. If you having trouble with the arm, make sure it is clean and that it is the right size.

Jim H.

[RandyP]

+1 on regular cleaning of the primer arm. Solves most problems. I've done thousands of reloads using mine and find the priming system to be pretty effective and easy to use. But it definitely does not like any crud on it -lol

[rondog]

I hate the primer feed thing that came with my Lee Press, but the arm you're talking about doesn't give me problems. In fact, that's how I batch prime. I use the press and just put primers in the little cup one at a time, then prime the case. I can prime a lot of cases (IMO) in a short time. I have the Lee hand primer thing, but it makes my carpal tunnel syndrome flare up. NO fun. Never tried the RCBS.

[editingfx]

The problem is probably related to cleaning.

I have encountered that, but learned to clean the ram cutout with a Q-tip, and the arm with a paper towel. This arm is hanging up even with a totally clean rig.

I got better performance with the old primer arm by using the 600 grit sandpaper to polish the sides of the arm, and used a tiny hand file to bevel the edges.

Still think I'll try that approach, but more aggressively with the Dremel. I see no reason why a tiny bit of "slop" would adversely affect priming performance. Sort of like a 1911 that's too tight.... won't run as reliably as a loose one.

[jfh]

I buy the idea of smoothing the sides and breaking the back edges, editingfx. I'm not so sure it takes a dremel, though. Keep in mind that the primary reference really is the centerline of the shellholder. Before you go to work on the arm, Id inspect the shellholder for size and good retention on the ram head.

Jim H.

[fourdollarbill]

I would suggest taking it apart and checking for burs or a smudge of dirt. I had to tune mine up by knocking off a bur the size of a hair with my finger nail. I have run 1000's of cases through it without problems. I like the Lee system and it works very well.

[nhlivefree]

I have the same problem with the large primer on my press it hit the floor and broke just like yours. I got a new one and it does the same thing I found sanding it down helps a little but it always sticks again I hold it now when I bring the ram up its a pain but better then it keep breaking. I am not real impressed with lee stuff

[jad0110]

jfh's experience matches my own. I clean mine out whenever it starts sticking, and things return to normal.

[jfh]

about editingfx's problem: Are you using a shell holder that fits your case, but is, in fact, the wrong size primer for the particular case / round you are loading? For example, isn't 10mm a Large Primer, but .40S&W a Small Primer? I know I have both 19L and 19s shell holders (I think that's the number....)

when I had this 'hangup' problem recently, I too found some detrius / hair, sliver, whatever, in the shell holder primer hole. Be sure to clean / degrease that as well.

Jim H.

[editingfx]

Thanks to all the replies.... Yes, is for sure the correct shellholder (I've put maybe 5000 rounds through it by now) and with the old primer arm, as long as it was clean it'd mostly stay in the ram (after I did the sanding thing).

Mostly I was looking to see if others encountered the same issue, and what their fixes were.

I wonder if the progressives have the same niggly problems?

[editingfx]

UPDATE for whoever reads this thread: used the Dremel with a fine grinder & LIGHTLY beveled the primer arm edges. Then used some 600 (? very fine at least) grit sandpaper, again on the Dremel, and ran over the bevels + all flat faces. It felt really smooth after that! ALSO, ran the grinder tool (a cone-shaped green grinder) around the inside of the shellholder, where the top & bottom mate. Before grinding, there was a very fine offset line where the two come together - after the grind, no line.

Put it in the ram, ran a handful, and the primer arm dropped back down into start position instantly. Worked great! Problem solved.

Of course, I'll still need to clean every few hundred with a quick Q-tip around the inside of the ram. But that only takes a few seconds, and not having to attend to the &$#^@ primer arm while loading is a big time-saver.

[jfh]

Good details on the shell holder cleanup, editingfx. My sets of shellholders, purchased fifteen-twenty years ago, were finished just fine.

I know that when I broke out my reloading gear again after a hiatus of some years and a move, I mounted my (standard / old) turret press and then "looked around"--and ordered the 4-die update kit. The new primer arms were obviously "less finished" than the original ones. Obviously, Lee treads a very fine line in keeping their equipment low-priced while still ensuring adequate QC for problem-free operation.

Jim H.

[John Wayne]

Mine hangs up too, even when squeaky-clean!

My friend has an older Lee press, and says that his primer arm is held in place by the shellholder.

I do not prime on the press, but the arm has to be in place to keep spent primers from bouncing everywhere when depriming/resizing. I ended up holding it in place with a rubber band. This works for me because I don't have to fully lower the ram anyway, but will not work if you are trying to prime on the press.

[editingfx]

FINAL UPDATE (from me).

OK, it started hanging up again (some gunk got on the arm again). Though I don't mind cleaning it at the start of a loading session, I don't want to do it every 15 minutes. SO....

Small zip-tie near the bottom of a support, that then hangs over the end of the primer arm. When the ram raises, it gently holds down the primer arm, until the bar inside the ram connects with the back of the primer arm, lifting it and as it does, the arm pushes the zip-tie out of the way. 100% success. Loaded 100 rounds and the arm never got close to coming out. It allowed my to speed up considerably, not having to worry about the arm.

[jfh]

OK, I think your modification has explained one item I was taking for granted--e.g., that you were priming on press, and that the cases had been cleaned but not deprimed.

But you are not, correct? That is, you are using the zip tie to held the primer arm in place in the ram, so you aren't depriming and priming at all...If you are not depriming-priming on press, why not just remove the primer arm?

Jim H.

[editingfx]

Guess my description wasn't clear: Yes, I'm depriming/priming on the press, along with the other operations.

The zip tie isn't holding it ** in ** the ram, exactly, it's holding the primer arm DOWN, preventing it from lifting (due to friction caused by grime or whatever), until the horizontal pin inside the ram makes contact with the "ledge" on the back of the primer arm, and lifts the arm up past the zip tie. There's enough resistance from the zip tie resting over the arm to keep anything but the mechanical action of the pin from lifting the arm prematurely. It's the premature lifting that causes the arm to rise up early, and when the press jiggles, the arm falls out of the ram, hits the floor, possibly breaks, but definitely breaks my stride.

After posting the "zip fix", I ran a full 100 rounds, without a single hiccup, at about a round every 15-20 seconds. THAT'S what I wanted - the turret running as smooth as it can. It was much more enjoyable, knowing I could concentrate on seeing the right throw of powder in the case, and a quick visual QC before tossing the cartridge in the "done" box, rather than making sure the &^#@ arm wasn't about to fall out.

For anyone trying my fix, just make sure you use a very small zip tie, and fasten it on the post nearest the primer arm DOWN LOW, almost at the bottom of the post. Leave just enough room to allow the primer arm to slip back under the zip tie when the ram is lowered all the way down. I found I can barely tell the zip tie is there during the press operation. It does make it necessary to lower the ram completely on each stroke, but I find that when the indexing is set correctly, that's just fine.

[Seedtick]

editingfx, it sounds like your priming arm is too wide. If the zip tie quits working for you try grinding that booger thinner. That way it'll take a lot more gunk to bind it up.

ST

[jfh]

now I understand; it's an ingenious solution.

But, I admit I am perplexed about the continued gunking up of the arm, particularly after the work you've done on it. Does this happen with the alternative primer arm? which cartridge are you loading? etc., etc.

Jim H.

[John Wayne]

The zip tie solution seems brilliant.

Having the same press, I can attest to the fact that it is a fault of the equipment, not the reloader in this instance. I have the same problem, even when the ram is clean, I am using the correct shellholder for the cartridge I am loading, etc.

I even tried it without a shellholder, casing, or anything in place. Both the large and small primer arms fall out when raised.

The problem he's describing is the primer arm sticking in the ram housing when the ram is lowered under normal operation. When the ram is raised, the primer arm is stuck at the top of the ram housing, rather than resting on the pivot as it should. It then falls down, bounces off the pivot pin and falls to the floor. IMO it is a very annoying flaw with this press.

[jfh]

I agree, the zip is a good idea. I don't doubt that it is an equipment malfunction (poor design, whatever). What I am curious about is why this doesn't routinely occur for all of us turret users. when I clean mine, the hangup problem simply goes away, but that solution doesn't work for some of us--as editingfx and John Wayne can attest to.

I've never had to polish / break edges, whatever--just keep it clean. When it starts sticking in the shellholder head, it is because of grunge buildup on the back of the arm--which thrusts it "forward," so it binds against the side of the shell holder primer insertion hole. Occasionally, I get brass slivers and fine debris from the PTED die operation on new cases, and it builds up a bit on the shell holder (like you can see in the latest pictures by editingfx). Cleaning it off with GunScrubber and carefully cleaning the slot (for cartridge insertion) in the shellholder and maybe the primer arm hole in the holder does it.

Today I loaded 100 rounds off my turret it had been cleaned about 25 rounds, maybe 50, before that. Since cleaning, it hasn't hung up. Those 100 rounds were uneventful.

I'm wondering about Lee's machined tolerances in the ram slot, the position of the pivot pin, and the finish on the primer arm. Whatever the cause is, it's good to see multiple solutions availble for application as needed.

added on edit: I agree, the primer arm will fall out when the ram is raised, if there is no shell holder in place. With my workflow, there is always a shellholder in place, so that's not an issue. Of course, on the occasions when I am loading pre-primed cases (like for by novice .223 work), I remove the primer arm before I ever start.

Jim H.

[editingfx]

Dunno about brilliant, but it was cheap. And I do so love cheap!

At first I thought the gunk was loose powder from the hopper, as when I switched to AA#5 it tends to leak quite a bit (I don't have the "upgrade" hopper which may not leak as much with a fine ball powder.) But now I realize it's gunk form the primer pocket, thus always gonna be there. That, coupled with the fact that a "clean arm" creates no better cartridges than a "dirty arm" (other than staying in the ram longer), made me look for a way to KEEP THE DARN THING IN THERE. Now cleaning it will only occur at the end of a nice long uneventful loading session. A session where my productivity & safety (from watching powder level, etc, rather than the arm) is much increased.

[jfh]

I also use #5 a lot, and currently a lot of True Blue. Both these leak at the measure activation bar slot in the measure base, and from there the powder drops down, or spatters around. I don't see any way it makes it to the ram / primer arm. So, it definitely is mostly the case-burnt-powder / primer grunge.

(FWIW, the "pro" version, with its elastomer wiper, does a better job of sealing the base of the hopper to the top of the disk / charge bar. The wiper does wear, but it slows wear on the hopper base and the wear on the disk / charge bar. When the leakage gets severe at that location, it's time for new parts.) But that's another discussion.

Jim H.

[wrig456]

I just got a Lee 50th anniversary kit for Xmas and It had the same problem right out of the box. I found that if I push the shell holder slightly to the right the primer arm will drop. I also found that if i push the shell holder to the right when seating the primer the primer goes in much smoother. Its like the shell holder is being held too far to the left. Going to call Lee Monday.

[Rory McCanuck]

wrig456:
I have the same kit. If you look at the priming arm, you can see how it was stamped out, leaving a small burr on one side.
If you take a file (or even fine sandpaper if that's what you have available)
and clean that burr off, it might help.
For two minutes work, it might save you from sitting on hold :cuss:

[dtsdave]

I just slapped your contraption on my press and it looks like a winner. Last night I was crankng away and got gunked and the thing was driving me crazy. Of course it is working great now, after a good cleaning and a couple of there it goes again, but your system may keep me from a busted arm.

Nice work. Everyone should try this one.

The arm slips past the zip tie on the down stroke and it just adds a little pressure to the arm on the up stroke before it slips past it again.

[RandyP]

I solved all my minor primer 'woes' just self-sticking a tiny rectangle of felt to the press where the primer arm makes contact. Just that little bit of lift cures it for me, though the zip tie is another good option.

[mdripley]

I have been using the zip tie trick for over 2 years now and have not had the priming arm drop out since.

[jhansman]

I use Lee's on-press priming system for handgun loads, and yes, the priming arm does occasionally get hung up in its slot in the ram. My small primer arm also fell out, hit the concrete floor and broke. Lee, of course, sent a free replacement, but in my conversation with the CS agent, I mentioned that while the design works, it is essentially flawed in that the arm itself is made not from steel, but cast iron, and that it hangs when too much gunk gets between it and the slot it sits in, and subsequently falls out of the arm. I suggested they take another look at the design and start making the arm out of milled steel. She said shed' pass my comments on.

[Hondo 60]

Very strange! I deprime & prime on the press & the only time the priming arm falls off is when it gets stuck cuz of a primer gunk build up.
I just wipe it off & I'm good for another 1000 rounds or so.

But, anyway editingfx, I'm glad you fixed the problem

[awgrizzly]

While dirt and gunk can make it worse, the reason the primer arm is dropping out is because the shell holder is not properly lined up with the primer cup. So the primer cup sticks in the hole of the shell holder, lifts off the perch, and then falls out of the slot.

I tried everything. Then I pulled the shell holder slightly out in the seat and voila, the primer cup cleared the hole. The milling of the shell holder seat was apparently a few hundreds of an inch too deep.

I called Lee support to get it replaced. The new unit does the same thing. So I guess I'll just insert something into the rear of the groove of the shell holder seat to keep the shell holder from going in too far. I'm thinking the handy man's secret weapon... duct tape. :scrutiny:

[Lost Sheep]

I have never been able to get my priming arm out of the ram while the shell holder was in place.

Lift, wiggle, pull, push, nothing will get the priming arm out of the ram when there is a shell holder in place (at least, on my machine).

How do you manage it by accident?

Lost Sheep

[1SOW]

If I go fast enough, 'inertia' will lift the arm off the pivot point and sometimes it'll fall out.

I've started depriming my range brass on another press. My Lee primer works great for 100's of rds now.

[Seedtick]

Originally posted by Lost Sheep

I have never been able to get my priming arm out of the ram while the shell holder was in place.

Lift, wiggle, pull, push, nothing will get the priming arm out of the ram when there is a shell holder in place (at least, on my machine).


+1 Same here.
Strange. :scrutiny:

Seedtick

:)

[dsv424]

I have never been able to get my priming arm out of the ram while the shell holder was in place.

Lift, wiggle, pull, push, nothing will get the priming arm out of the ram when there is a shell holder in place (at least, on my machine).



Me too. There is no way I could get the primer arm out with the shell holder in place. I have the Classic Turret.

[REL1203]

I can never get the priming arm out when the shellholder is in place either.

I did have a major breakthrough last night through, apperently I had installed the little spacer thing for some reason on top of the black plastic mounting spot of the primer holder. I looked at it for a second and it dawned on me finally that is why i could never really have any luck... Pulled it all apart, put the spacer below and primed 300 40S&W in a row without issue

[DoubleSawbuck]

I had the same problem with my "deluxe" lee turret. I removed the shell holder that came with my Lee 9mm die set and cycled the press, the arm stayed in place the way it should. Upon closer inspection it looked like the primer seat on the priming arm was getting snagged in the shell holder, I probably could have taken a dremel to the shell holder and opened it up a bit but I found a 9mm Hornady shell holder on amazon for a few bucks with free shipping. Once I received it in the mail I put it on the press, adjusted my dies for the difference in height and the priming arm hasn't fallen off since.:D

[Sin City Shooter]

I had the same problem too. The correction was to replace both primer arms. Lee miss-drilled the pin holes and thus they sat crooked. I could of had them warranted but I modded them looking for a cure. Haven't had a single problem since they were replaced.

[nickE10mm]

Sorry to resurrect this thread yet again but its so good, it deserves it! lol

I've got the DELUXE press and also have primer arm issues. I've had it replaced twice now but it still happens occasionally. It wouldn't be so big of a deal if the damn primer cup didn't get dented out of spec EVERY TIME it hits my concrete floor. Once that happens, I can't prime cases at ALL since primers won't fit in the cup anymore. I have to wait DAYS before I can start reloading again. QUITE FRUSTRATING.

I'm gonna try the zip-tie trick but might actually try and sell my Deluxe press and get a Classic Cast since ITS design prevents the primer arm from falling out (so long as the shellholder is in place). Fixing this issue would be worth the trouble of the exchange.

Next up: 1) zip-tie trick and 2) reminder to clean primer arm groove and shellholder on a CONSTANT schedule.

Thanks for the great thread, all!

[oldreloader]

You are correct about the Classic Cast. As long as you have a shell holder in the ram, the priming arm WILL NOT come out!

[nickE10mm]

Could I ask... how exactly does the Classic Cast's design enable this? I can't tell from pics I've seen...??

[psyshack]

The pin that the primer lever rest on is higher in the ram and the cut in the ram is a tad higher. Thus you cant lift the lever out without pulling the shell holder.

My single stage Lee press's allow for the lever to be removed with the shell holder in place. They use to drop out here and there and hang now and then. Took some 600 grit paper to them to detail and slick them up a tad. No problems at all in the single stage press's now.

[nickE10mm]

Brilliant. Brilliant fix for a brilliant problem, you might say. Ha!

Thanks for the reply, btw!

[Darkngrim]

Mine did something fairly similar to what has been described by many others, in my case the primer seating pin was slightly bent. If you can rotate the shell holder and the flange contacts in the same general direction, this might be your problem. I used a driver handle, one of those multi-bit magnetic screwdriver types, removed the shell holder, lowered the ram fully and with the driver over the pin, gently bent it in the opposite direction of where it was contacting. It didn't take much to center it, and it hasn't stuck since.

[NCDave]

I saw this thread was started in 2009 and I'm very glad folks revived it in 2011 so that it showed up in the top of in my Google search.

I bought a used Lee classic cast turret press and have had so many priming problems, I thought I got rooked. Same issues as I'm seeing here, along with another one, I'll explain in a minute. The zip tie worked for both problems.

I studied the problems I was having, looking online for solutions, looking at Lee videos, etc. I tried sanding (400 and 600 grit) the inside of the primer arm slot (which is not machined very well); the edges of the slot where there could be burrs; the primer arm itself. Cleaned everything carefully. I added powdered graphite to make it slicker. No dice.

My primer arm was sticking twice. Using CCI 500 small primers, loading 9mm, on the downstroke of the ram, the new primer was hanging up on the outside edge of the shell holder as the primer arm was _trying_ to move vertical to get into position to seat the new primer. Lee has a video explaining why they think this happens (primer arm/ram slightly rotated in the plane of the workbench), but my press was lined up fine, so their solution was not for me. My issue only happened with a primer in the cup. The primer sticks above the cup just a tiny amount, and that's enough to cause a hang-up.

Second sticking problem was exactly as described in this thread: primer cup sticks on the inside of the shell holder. I'm using a #19 Lee shell holder (proper one for 9mm Luger). Not a thing wrong with the shell holder, and machined nicely. But if I put a small amount of pressure on the shell holder, I could cause the primer arm cup to free and the primer arm would drop as it was supposed to.

I had solved the first problem by duct taping a small sliver of wood underneath the primer arm so that the primer arm would contact the wood first on the downstroke of the ram, moving the primer arm into its vertical position just a bit sooner than designed. That allowed the primer in the cup to clear the outside edge of the shell holder.

The second problem was harder to fix (sticking inside the shell holder). I am convinced this is a tolerance buildup in Lee's design: in the shell holder slot, in the primer arm slot, and probably most importantly, in the primer arm itself. The primer arm is mostly cast (I think), but the spring-loaded pin/cup needs to be drilled perfectly, and then if the primer arm is dropped on the floor and hits that pin, I'll bet that can bend the pin just enough to cause misalignment with the hole in the shell holder. Folks have reported problems with new primer arms, and with older or new equipment, so I figure it could just be a tolerancing issue.

The zip tie solves both problems for me, most of the time. I had one instance where the primer cup got stuck too hard inside the shell holder and the zip tie didn't pull it down. But other than that, the zip tie works great, and it also replaces the ugly piece of wood I had duct taped on the base of the press.

Lee should consider adding something like this to their design. They are relying on their machining and tolerances, and it's not working for a lot of folks.

[1SOW]

I'm using a #19 Lee shell holder (proper one for 9mm Luger). Not a thing wrong with the shell holder, and machined nicely.


I use the nylon tie and it works fine with the Lee 'turret' press, but I still had alignment problems with 9mm cases. The LEE #19 "UNIVERSAL:" shell holder was the problem, It has too much 'slop' for 9mm cases. It's made to fit about umpteen cases including 40cal.

I tried a more specific size LEE holder recommended here on the forum, and it was still too loose. Someone recommended an RCBS 9mm shellholder, but I got tired of 'stabs in the dark'.

I shaped a .005" thick piece of tempered steel shim stock to exactly fit the bottom of the shell holder. I drilled the 1/4" hole in the bottom and enlarged it just a couple of thousandths (to clear the primer 'cup'), and then carefully JB Welded it to the bottom of the case holder using a flat clamp until the epoxy dried.

My 9mm cases still are able to move enough to fully align with the dies, but the case doesn't "bounce" out of position any more. The case won't "tilt" any more, and my priming is now smooth as silk..

Find a case holder that actually fits 9mm or whatever cases you're priming if you can..

[NCDave]

Thanks for the tip, 1SOW.

I will keep an eye out for shell holders specifically for 9mm Luger.

[SSN Vet]

The primer cup can be slightly out of round and if aligned with the elongated side of the "oval" perpendicular to the slot in the ram, it can bind. Rotating the cup 90 deg will often return it to free movement.

[NCDave]

I just went out to the garage to check it with the calipers. Measures .246 all around, so that doesn't seem to be the issue this time. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

I also looked at the fit of the 9mm casings in the shell holder and see exactly what 1SOW is talking about. There is a lot of slop in the slot where the head goes into the holder. Seems most of the other makers' shell holders are also "universal."

Maybe I will try the shim that 1SOW mentions, because even when the priming arm worked and the primers were being seated, they often were not being seated cleanly/straight/evenly, and I never got a consistent "feel" or sound when the primers were seating.

[1SOW]

I had .005" shim steel on hand. I'd go .006" if I had to buy it at the auto parts store.

Be really careful to apply a 'minimum' amount of epoxy glue. Do NOT have enough to push it into the primer arm hole or UP on the case slot. It only takes a very little to hold it in place, because it's not under stress to move. Also make sure it is resting "flat" on the bottom of the case holder.