Some S&W 659 tuning


December 9, 2009, 05:07 PM
Hello guys, I just did some tuning on my S&W 659 that I want to share with you, in case you have a similar problem.

When the hammer is cocked, the trigger has some play, which is normal. What wasn't normal was that the play on the trigger was VERY gritty, like there was sand in there (there wasn't, I field strip and clean my guns after everytime I shoot). After months of ownership, I finally decided to take the whole gun appart, which I had never done on a semi auto before, just revolvers.

After some investigation and trial, I found out that there were lots of machining marks on the bottom of the hammer, where it rubbs against the very tip of the draw bar. This was not the area were the draw bar pulls the hammer, to be clear. I very carefully went at it with some 400, then 600 grint sand paper, being careful not to remove much metal or change the shape. I made sure to not touch either one of the hammer notches, or to change the geometry in any way. I do have some experience fitting parts on my other guns, sanding, polishing, etc.

I put the gun back together and voila! the grittyness was gone. I cycled the action some and put it back together. Since I didn't touch the notches or the sear, the hammer engagement was left intact. I think I just saved a bunch of money not going to a gunsmith. I am not saying you shouldn't go to gunsmiths, but that some of the work can be done at home.

It's an accurate gun :)

If you enjoyed reading about "Some S&W 659 tuning" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
December 9, 2009, 06:50 PM
Does it "push off" now? By that I mean by that is; unload the weapon, then cock the hammer put pressure on the hammer with your thumb and tap the front of the gun on a hard surface protected by a dry twice folded wash cloth to protect the gun finish. Very common problem with S&W autoloaders. The 59 and 5906 are notorious for it.

So much for S&W fit and finish, As you found out, it's all on the out side and cosmetic. The internal workmanship is terrible in my opinion.

December 9, 2009, 07:25 PM
I can't try that right now, but putting pressure forward on the hammer just acts on the sear and the hammer notch I think. I didn't touch those so it should be intact. I've never had any issues with it aside from the gritty play. The part of the hammer I worked on was further down from the notches.

December 9, 2009, 08:24 PM
Nice, I did something similiar with my CZ 40B this summer, I meant to install a comp hammer in it but couldn't get the pins for the hammer strut out, so I just sanded everything that was rough with some 800 grit paper, avoided the notches like you did, and it was a fantastic improvement.

Congrats on a successful fix of the only thing you didn't like about your gun. It looks great, by the way, what grips are those?

December 9, 2009, 08:27 PM
Pappy who pooped in your soup?

December 9, 2009, 08:55 PM
Thank you, I really do like it. I repolished the slide and frame to 600 grit, it was pretty scratched up when I bought it. The grips are Cocobolo from Hogue.

December 9, 2009, 09:11 PM
I almost bought a 5906 from CDNN a couple years back, went with the 40B and an FNP-9M instead, no regrets, but I do plan on eventually owning one of the all-stainless S&W 9mm autos, something about them makes me want to handle one pretty badly.

December 10, 2009, 01:14 AM
The reason I got this 659 in the first place was because my first "gun" was a daisy model 93, a CO2 bb gun based on the 659.

Mine shoots great, and it has never jammed. It is very robust and the weight absorbs a lot of the recoil. I really like the design and materials over today's plastic guns. At least some people are still putting out brand new all steel guns, Armalite AR24, CZ, etc.

If you enjoyed reading about "Some S&W 659 tuning" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!