Garand Questions


November 11, 2003, 12:29 PM
Hey y'all, i've got a few questions about this particular rifle, and any help would be great.
My dad and grandfather gave it to me for my 18th birthday, and i'm dying to shoot it. but i wanted to see what you guys thought first. dad don't know too much about it, and grandpa cant remember everything they taught him in basic 60 years ago, so basicly i'm on my own. advice?

Any big no-nos?? what is strictly taboo on this gun? i've been reading the archives, and about all i've seen is ammo warnings about gas pressures in the comercial stuff, so basicly just stick to mil spec surplus?? While on the topic of ammo, i was looking on, and if you scroll about halfway down theres this russian stuff thats really cheap, but it don't say if its mil spec or not, would that stuff be safe for my garand?

that seems to be one of the most important things to know based on what other threads have to say, anytthing else?

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November 11, 2003, 12:50 PM
A "biggy" is: GREASE your Garand. The M1 MUST be greased in the critical areas.
Any good grease will do, but the GI specified product was Lubriplate lithium grease. This is available from Brownell's and from many local hardware and machine shops.

As for the Russian ammo, I'd say NO to using it. Most Russian ammo is steel cased, and the Garand was never intended to be fired with steel cases.

For complete info on the Garand, you can get free manuals and tons of good info here:

All of these sites have the GI manuals detailing about everything you need to know about the M1.

Read the sections about cleaning, greasing, disassembly, and maintenance.
Follow the directions and you can't go wrong.

November 11, 2003, 01:17 PM
Would also add:

Just because I have them handy. /Rusty

November 11, 2003, 02:45 PM
Grease where proper.....


Find some M2Ball ammo, or closest equivalent. The Danish stuff already loaded in the en-bloc clips is good food for your Garand.

The earlier posts gave you a wealth of resources. Lotza good info & much reading.

Enjoy your 'Piece of History'. Especially today...Veteran's Day.

November 11, 2003, 03:07 PM
Bigjake you lucky guy. Is your garand a 30-06? Have always wanted one, but at @ $1000+ new that's some bucks. Springfield I know is coming out in 2004 with a new model in 308. A buddy has a "tanker" garand in 308 and it is fun to shoot. I did notice one thing you might find interesting. When loaded with a 5 rd stripper clip we had to push down on the rounds with a thumb and then pull the bolt back slightly before jamming it forward. With the 8 rd clip, after inserting it in the receiver you could hear a click when it seated. Then simply jam the bolt forward and she's locked and loaded. Just think. You're the same age the men who fought in WWll were that used that rifle in combat. Be careful and enjoy.

Dave P
November 11, 2003, 03:08 PM
Jake, give us some info on your rifle: maker? S/N? History?

That's part of what makes them interesting!

Have fun with it!

November 11, 2003, 03:13 PM
Commercial PMC 150gr stuff is a good M2 approximation.

It should be a good rifle: treat it well.

November 11, 2003, 03:43 PM
If it's a 30-06, and not re-barreled for .308...
1) Danish M2 ball
2) Korean M2 ball, BUT "PS" headstamp ONLY (kinda too much work for a newbie to mess with corrosive right away, "KA" stamped IS Corrosive). PS stuff comes in the cardboard boxes vs. KA in enblocs (typically).
3) Remington UMC 30-06 springfield 150gr FMJ
4) I believe there is also some Federal 150gr load spec'd to M2

November 11, 2003, 03:48 PM
"If it's a 30-06, and not re-barreled for .308...
1) Danish M2 ball
2) Korean M2 ball, BUT "PS" headstamp ONLY (kinda too much work for a newbie to mess with corrosive right away, "KA" stamped IS Corrosive)."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- has the Danish and Korean surplus stuff, loaded in convenient Garand clips (lifetime supply of clips) for very reasonable prices.

Federal has an American Eagle 150 gr 30-06 load that is suitable for the Garand.

But of all the cheap ammo I've shot through my Garand, the Danish stuff gives me the best groups. Only drawback - the brass is not reloadable.

November 11, 2003, 04:24 PM
Beware the M1 thumb! :what:

November 12, 2003, 04:07 AM
With a Garand you should never shoot bullets weighing 180 grains or heavier unless you get one of those adjustable gas systems for it. Schuster & McCann make them respectively.

But anything under 180, including 178 grain Hornady A-max will be allright as long as you watch the burn rate of the powder. It's gas port pressure that ya have to watch for in a Garand, not chamber pressure. Powders such as IMR 4895, IMR 4064, & AA2520 are good. It's best to use powders with burn rates between IMR 3031 & IMR 4320.

As far as commercial cartridges go, I notice a lot of people using them & claiming it's okay, but personally I wouldn't use anything other than Federal Gold Medal Match in my Garand. That's if I used commercial ammo at all. Between handloading & mil-surp I'm covered & just don't see the need to see if commercial ammo will function okay or not in my Garand.

A few people have already told you to use grease. Make sure the op rod, underside of the barrel where the op rod travels, & anyplace on the bolt &receiver that causes friction gets an application of grease.

& no matter how much you neglect the rest of the rifle, keep the chamber clean. A .45 caliber bronze brush is all ya need. Just run it in & out of the chamber every 80-100 rounds or so, or whenever you call it a day. Brass particles will build up in there if you don't & that's not a good thing if they start interfering with headspace.

Also, Garands have a free floating firing pin. They will dimple the primer when you chamber a round. Federal is a more sensitive primer than the others, so I'd be cautious about using Federal ammo or primers.

& if you single load the Garand you have to be careful. Don't just drop a cartridge in the chamber & let the bolt fly home. This can cause a slam fire or out of battery fire. Instead either insert the cartridge oart way in the chamber or lay it on the follwer, then ease the bolt forward at least hal way to the chamber, then let it go. This will better simulate the resistance the bolt would have if it stirpped a cartridge of the magazine & reduce the possibility of a lsam fire considerably.

Back to ammo, I don't shoot a lot of mil-surp. But from what I hear you can't go wrong if you stick to ammo manufactured in countires that used the Garand. So of course US ammo is okay, as is Danish & Korean. Now some Korean is corrosive, so I'd stay away from it unless you like really cleaning your rifle.

& there seems to be some disagreement in places, but I've always heard that machine gun ammo was loaded to hotter specs than rifle ammo, so it's best to avoid any mil-surp with link marks around the case orammo that comes on links. It seems quite a few people claim they've never had any problems using linked or formerly linked ammo, but personally I stay away from it.

Nando Aqui
November 12, 2003, 01:13 PM
For an interesting and well done depiction of how an M1 works, try this:
(The presentation usually opens up at the Action Animation screen. You may try clicking on the Up-Arrow for Home, first. Also, notice that there are many steps and animations for each segment.)


November 13, 2003, 09:45 AM
Nando AquĆ*, that is a stellar web site. Thanks for the link!


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