[slotzero]

Recently acquired a Remington 514 that was in storage for a long time.

It has some surface rust but otherwise looks to be in decent shape - aside from cleaning the bore well, what else should I do here? Fine steel wool?

Thanks for your help.

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt34/slotzero/DSC_6906.jpg

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt34/slotzero/DSC_6905.jpg

[Clipper]

I like to use a Scotchbrite pad and gun oil. Then I clean and cold blue with Birchwood Casey Super blue. My EDC gets surface rust where the holster doesn't cover it from sweat and I have to do it every 2-3 days in summer when I OC and get sweat on it.

[rcmodel]

DO NOT use a Scotch-Brite pad unless you want to scratch all the remaining bluing off!!!

Start out with 0000 (Extra-fine) grade steel wool & any oil.

That will take off the rust without destroying the remaining bluing.

Heres a vid from Brownell's that might help.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10990/guntechdetail/How_to_Fix_Light_Rust_on_a_Gun

rc

[Ian Sean]

rcmodel nailed it, oil and 0000 steel wool.

Looks like you may have caught it just in time. I had a similar looking rust pattern like yours starting on an old shotgun I picked up for real cheap at a flea market.

Nice and easy...lots of oil....you are NOT scrubbing a frying pan!:D

Mine came out pretty decent after the clean-up and only a couple of areas you can see a little damage to the blue.

I would like to see some after pictures....it would make a nice tutorial for folks to look at if it comes out OK.

[natman]

+1 to gentle rubbing with well oiled 0000 steel wool.

[Chawbaccer]

Looks like you are storing your gun in a foam lined case. They trap moisture and don't allow for air circulation.

[Riss]

Bronze wool with oil, NOT steel wool first. It is softer than the bluing and will not scratch the gun.

[CZguy]

Bronze wool with oil, NOT steel wool first. It is softer than the bluing and will not scratch the gun.

Plus one. It's available from both Brownell's and Midway.

[ronaldo615]

I bought a shotgun once that looked worse than your pictures. I bought it so I could practice cold bluing. Once I rubbed it with oil and bronze wool, it didn't need to be reblued.

I think you will be happy with the results.

[natman]

I'm sure bronze wool works fine, but you will not damage bluing with 0000 steel wool, lots of oil and gentle rubbing. I once tried to damage bluing on a rusted scrap and managed to get a bit of fading after 10 minutes of white-knuckle hard rubbing.

[rcmodel]

0000 (extra fine) steel wool & oil is used to remove bluing salts residue during the hot blue process on new finishes.

It will not hurt the bluing.
And it will not leave brass rub-off that has to be removed with something else like bronze wool.

rc

[jimmyraythomason]

I fully agree with natman and rcmodel. Use 4-0 steel wool and lots of light oil(I use WD-40 but most any light oil will work). I am NOT gentle with the elbow grease either I rub HARD until all of the rust is gone and then rinse residue away with spray oil(again I use WD-40). I use the same technique after hot bluing to clean up a fresh blue job.

[EMC45]

0000 for me. Been using it for years. That and some Kroil and you are in business!

[Alpacca 45]

I'm kind of with RC on this.

Fine steel wool and either oodles of oil to keep the wool clean or none at all, and keep banging the dust out, as rust cake makes a grinding paste.

I'm cheap so I'd use kerosene, wear nitrile rubber gloves and work outside, but thats for summertime unless you live somewhere warm.

If you do use brass or bronze, a wipe with an ammonia soaked cloth will take the brass off without touching either the bluing or the underlying steel.

Scotchbrite is the devil's own work. SWMBO has the polish taken off all the cutlery in the house with the stuff and everything else roughened up so dirt'll stick to it.

K

As an OT ps, if you ever view a gun, a lathe or a milling machine that has been cleaned with scotchbright, just get back in the car and drive away.

[jimmyraythomason]

slotzero,from what I can see in the pics,I would rate this rust situation a little higher than "minor". It will clean up and no severe damage to the gun however the blue finish is pretty much "finished". There is pitting(although minor)under that surface rust that is permanent(unless reblued).

[navyretired 1]

If you or a friend have a lathe disassemble and clean/polish barrel only in lathe. while still in lathe used the B/C Superblue and paper towels to reblue to your satisfaction. If done correctly it will look like new. Use hot water to stop blueing and oil with good oil, NOT WD-40 as it seems to remove some of the blueing. I use ATF for oil on these jobs and leave soaking wet over night. Next day polish with soft cloth and assemble.
If you don't have a lathe or access to one just use any of the above to clean up but that barrel is pitted and won't ever look real good again.

[nastynatesfish]

nothing better than naval jelly but it will take the blue off

[jimmyraythomason]

Agree with navyretired1, WD-40 is NOT kind to cold blue. Won't hurt hot blue though.

[45crittergitter]

+1 for bronze wool (not the coarse potscrubbers). You can get it at a good hardware store. I've had no issues with bronze/brass deposits.