I have a Mauser that REALLY needs a severe bore cleaning. I have tried Butch's, Hoppes Copper solvent, Ed's Red, still getting black crap out with using all the above with a brass brush. The barrel is in good looking shape except I can't get patches to quit coming out cruddy. I kid not when I estimate 200 patches.
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December 30, 2009, 11:56 AM
Try JB Bore Cleaner, the paste stuff. It is just the thing for getting 50+ years worth of powder and jacket fouling out of a Mauser barrel.
Just my .02,
December 30, 2009, 11:59 AM
as a penetrant--it worms its way into microscopic spaces (like between 2 close-fit gun parts for example) so as to lube them when they move. Some benchrest shooters do clean with Kroil. However, their guns aren't "really in need of a severe bore cleaning."
You could try Kroil, in the "Can't hurt, might help" department. Having bought a can of it, you'll find it useful as an excellent light lubricant, if nothing else.
For really dirty bores my go-to cleaner is Blue Wonder gel. Put it in the bore, leave for the recommended time, run a brush into the bore several strokes, then patch out the resultant gunk. Usually works wonders.
Lately I've been having good luck with the foaming bore cleaners, also--spray it down the bore, wait the prescribed time, brush & patch it out.
Something else that sometimes works is the old-style military bore cleaner (not the kinder, gentler stuff they use now) but I can't suggest where to lay yr hands on a can of it.
Anyhow, good luck, Skidoo Man 603. A really old, fouled, pitted, dirty bore (I'm guessing this is an old milsurp Mauser you have) can be a real challenge to get bright.
December 30, 2009, 12:20 PM
When you think your bore is clean, run a patch with Kroil down it, it's not...
December 30, 2009, 12:22 PM
I think I would try a foam cleaner like Joe suggested.
December 30, 2009, 12:24 PM
you'll find it useful as an excellent light lubricant, if nothing else.
I love kroil for breaking stuck bolts out of the rust, but it's high-octane and extremely toxic. You should never use it without gloves, and the idea of leaving it on the metal as a lube strikes me as a good way to get a rash.
Use CLP for lube.
December 30, 2009, 02:34 PM
I had the same problem with a 91/30 - finally tried the homemade electrolysis bore cleaner - couple of batteries, steel rod o-ringed off from the barrel and a plug at the chamber end. It got a remarkable amount of crud out, follwed up with a foaming bore cleaner. It'lll never be factory clean again but it was worth the effort.
December 30, 2009, 02:42 PM
If you are using copper solvent and bronze brush than some of the dirt comes from the brush being melted by your solvent.
If you want to cut down on the amount of patches, make sure that after a wet patch you wait 10 minutes or so to allow the solvent do it's work and than run a dry one.
The longest it took me to clean a bore was 3 days on Mosin Nagant 91/30. I could literally see the copper by the crown. It's also a good idea to shoot the rifle than clean, shoot clean and so on and eventually it'll all come out.
December 30, 2009, 02:48 PM
With copper solvent using a nylon brush. Thanks Have flirted with the electro clean method. With the # of mil-surps I own would be a great investment.
James T Thomas
December 30, 2009, 03:05 PM
"Smoky Joe" is correct on Kroil being an efficient penetrating oil.
It gets into microscopic spaces over time; like the interface between your primers and their seats.
If you use it for any of your self defense firearms or big and dangerous
guns, please consider that you might be better off not using it.
Sometimes, '603, the Aluminum cleaning rods will produce "black crap" on the cleaning patches. Try some brass rods if you are using the Al ones.
December 30, 2009, 03:19 PM
Nothin but one piece coated cleaning rods Thanks
December 30, 2009, 10:38 PM
I second the JB bore paste. Wrap a patch around an undersize bore brush that is a snug fit in the bore with the patch. Work the paste into the patch and do ten full length strokes (back and forth is one stroke). Change the patch and repeat as necessary. This will allow you to clean the bore without removing the copper from any pits that may be in the bore. Some folks want to leave the barrel "seasoned".
For complete copper removal the most aggressive, safe bore cleaner for copper fouling I have found is KG Industries KG12. A good general purpose cleaner is Boretech Eliminator. Neither contains ammonia.
I use Brownells stiff nylon brushes to apply the solvents (five strokes back and forth). I clean first with Boretech to get the carbon out then a dry patch or two. If the Boretech turns blue on the patches there is copper fouling then I use KG12 followed by a couple of dry patches. After that I run a patch of Boretech down the barrel and see if it still shows blue (it almost never does after the KG12). If it does I use the KG12 again until a patch of Boretech doesn't show color. I leave each solvent in the bore about 10 minutes.
The Boretech is a pretty good copper remover in its own right but I haven't found anything that works on copper as fast and completely as KG12. According to its maker it was developed for cleaning the bores of artillery pieces. Brownells sells both of these cleaners.
December 30, 2009, 10:59 PM
Plug the barrel at the muzzle. Fill up the bore with Kroil, then stand the rifle upright - muzzle down, wait a few days.
Then a tight patch/jag. It will actually push out anything that isn't attached to the bore -including copper. Works very well.
I perform this method on used rifles and have recovered major accuracy.
I have been using Aero-Kroil for years and have never developed any "rash" from the stuff; now the MEK we used for years ( along with the MPK ) is another story altogether.:banghead: deadly
Bore paste or some Comet/Bon-Ami also works great, just get it out with water.
Generally I don't use a metal brush on a bore, but I think a "Tornado" brush would be in the works.
December 30, 2009, 11:10 PM
Beretta Shotgun--Yeah, Tornado brushes are (Tony the Tiger voice) GRRRRR-eat!!! (/Tony the Tiger voice)
I don't use 'em on a regular basis--but when there is serious fouling, nothing beats 'em for mechanical removal.
Kroil has never bothered my skin, either. But some folks are more sensitive than others.
December 31, 2009, 05:26 AM
I'm a sensitive kinda guy...:uhoh: Filled her up with the Kroil last night after running the JB paste through her Thanks one and all for the input. This rifle is 100% matching with pretty wood. Shot real well even with the black cruddy barrel. For $250 she was a steal
December 31, 2009, 06:23 AM
I usr hoppes/kroil at 50/50. Worke great. After i think i have the bore clean, i soak it up once more and let it set overnight. Nope, wasnt quite clean but it is now.
December 31, 2009, 10:03 AM
This rifle is 100% matching with pretty wood. Shot real well even with the black cruddy barrel. For $250 she was a steal
:banghead: We need photos. :D
December 31, 2009, 10:55 AM
It's just that I'm embarrased CZ cuz my photography skills are not up to yours Friend :o
December 31, 2009, 11:05 AM
I've had good success with Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner on really fouled barrels. I let it sit for a half hour, run a bore snake through it from the breech (which is like a brush and a whole bunch of patches, but takes a whole lot less time), and repeat every half hour, washing the bore snake after each cleaning cycle. You can do that all day if need be. Sounds like what you've already tried is working pretty well, though.
December 31, 2009, 01:04 PM
It's just that I'm embarrased CZ cuz my photography skills are not up to yours Friend
I have the photography skills of a brick. I just have a camera that does all the work. ;)
December 31, 2009, 01:47 PM
What ya using for a camera ?
December 31, 2009, 03:14 PM
I thought everybody mixed Kroil with Shooter's Choice MC#7 or Butch's Bore Shine. I guess not.