[floydster]

Even tho I check every powder charge before I seat a bullet, I'm still paranoid about a double charge, especially if I have a stoppage on my LNL press. I have second guessed myself to the point of pulling bullets even tho I was sure they were ok, has anyone else experienced this?
I have never found a double charge yet.
Thanks for input.
Floyd:eek:

[flhtcuibyhd]

Floydster, I'm a rookie reloader myself, and I still weigh every charge versus the one every 10 or so. I use a single stage press, so am not as concerned with a double charge but want to make sure my charges are exact. I do a recheck of the reloading block before moving on to bullet seating. Its a slow process when reloading target .45 loads. I'm hoping that with time and experience, I'll have more confidence in my work and equipment. So I guess, I am right there with you.

[Jesse Heywood]

Is your powder charge big enough to check by weighing the completed round? Another option is to add a powder cop to your press. You need to do something to give yourself enough confidence to rely on the machine.

[RB98SS]

It's always in the back of my mind also. Most of the calibers I load, I try to stick with powders that fill more than half the case so I can't really double charge anything. I'm always worried about Bullseye, and Universal when I load 45 ACP though.

It's also why I pay little attention to any threads where guys start talking about how fast they can load, or how many they can load in "X" amount of time. I'm not interested in going fast when I reload. It may work for some, but not me.

[Randy1911]

The easiest solution is to get a Powder Cop die. I have one it will show you if you have a double charge or no powder at all. It makes me feel better.

[mongoose33]

IMO, the RCBS Lockout Die is even better than the Powder Cop. It'll stop the press from cycling fully on the upstroke if the powder charge is light or heavy.

The Powder Cop requires you to pay attention to it; the Lockout Die works whether you look at it or not. The problem I had with the Powder Cop is that it's really little different than peering into the case to see the powder; if you forget to look, it does no good.

You can see this below--I drive a cork in a case to show the level of a specific powder so when I adjust the Lockout Die to that powder I can dial it in quickly. The middle case is the cork at the capacity of 4.8 grains of WST or W231 (both are the same).

The Lockout Die is advertised by RCBS to catch a no-powder or a double-charge situation, but I've found it will also catch a light or heavy powder drop. The cases on the left and right of the middle case will all be caught by the Lockout Die.

http://clubdoctor.com/pics/lockout.jpg

I can't recommend it enough.

An alternative, if one doesn't want a mechanical helper, is to use a powder that fills most of the case, so that a double-charge will spill powder over the rim of the case.

[floydster]

Thanks everyone for your input, after reviewing all the suggestions I think the best way is to visually look at every charge before seating a bullet.
I am used to using a loading block, but after getting the LNL it is a different story, and is intimidateing to say the least.
Floyd

[Steve C]

If you load with a slower or bulkier powder with a double charge you will get an overflowed or topped out case that won't allow you to seat the bullet fully. For most pistol cases Unique or slower powder will fill this requirement.

[Oyeboten]

25-odd years ago, I was doing a lot of Pistol Cartridge reloading, and, in ten thousand or more rounds, never had a dud, never had a double-charge, never worried about it, either.


Finally, after all those years off, I got back into reloading a few months ago, and have been totally paranoid and fussy about every little thing...Lol...


So far, I have stayed with Powders which are bulky enough to be entirely unambiguous at-a-glance into the Charged shells - 3F BP, '777', Pyrodex...


I will matriculate on to 'Bullseye' and others though eventually, and, I'll make a little Gauge to check things with, Powder Level wise...though my method, will also be to be using my 'Ideal No. 5' Powder Measurer-Dispenser, where, I'd have to hold a Case up to the Spout two times, to get a double-charge.


Where, thus far, all my Cases have been getting charged via a Dipper and a consistent style of how it is dipped.


I have a nice Scale now also, for checking or double-checking Powder Charges by weight.


So yeahhh...I'd say, be meticulous...be methodical...observe 'Ritual'...which is all training, of course, in it's way.

[Publius1688]

I'm a newbie to reloading as well, and have a question related to the double-charge issue at hand here. What if we were to buy very accurate digital scales? Is it possible to be able to tell a double loaded round from a single loaded round by weight? Has anyone ever tested it to try? Thanks.

[Dynamite Rabbit]

I'll second the RCBS lockout die. I used the Hornady powder cop for awhile, and can't say enough good things about the RCBS die. It's cheap insurance.

[Jesse Heywood]

Publius

There is another thread on balance beam scales versus digital. I recommend you look at it.

A good recommendation for checking is to weigh the finished rounds. That requires a powder charge that is heavier than the variables of the case and bullet. If you are loading with lead bullets and using a powder with a small charge this doesn't work. I just finished loading some 38 spl. with 148 gr. lead and 3.2 gr. of W231. The bullet weight varies by more than the powder charge, so weighing the loaded cartridge doesn't work.

I would recommend for beginning loaders to use a powder that fills more than half the case. For a handgun something along the line of 4227 or 2400. Once you are more sure of your operation of the equipment then try some of the faster burning powders.

If you can't do something that gives you confidence in your process, you will become a nervous Nellie, which will lead to more mistakes. Not a good thing in this hobby.

[Publius1688]

Thanks Jesse--I'll search out the thread.