Material for muzzle brake.


January 9, 2010, 05:19 PM
I want in your opinion the exact alloy of metal you would use for a muzzle brake. I was thinking a 7075-T6 aluminum or 6A1-4V Titanium. Aluminum because it is about 20 times cheaper then titanium, but the titanium for the strength and durability obviously. This muzzle brake is going on a 300 win mag if your wondering. I drew it in solid works and posted a picture of it. There are some slight changes, corners are now rounded so that it will be easier to machine but more importantly wont break as easy. Instead of the holes being .375"x.75", they are now .5"x.75", making total length 4.25" instead of 3.625". It will be made out of 1.25" diameter round stock.

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General Geoff
January 9, 2010, 05:22 PM
that looks more like a silencer with the sides of the tube cut out, than a muzzle brake. Isn't the idea of a muzzle brake, to redirect the gases at a rearward angle in order to counteract recoil? :confused:

The Wiry Irishman
January 9, 2010, 05:33 PM
Isn't the idea of a muzzle brake, to redirect the gases at a rearward angle in order to counteract recoil?

Not necessarily. There are three ways in which a muzzle brake can work. The first, and most utilized by typical designs, is direct the gasses perpendicular to the flight path of the bullet. This removes the component of the recoil force created by the equal and opposite reaction of the powder gasses moving down the barrel. (Also why brakes are more effective on cartridges with a high powder weight to projectile weight ratio) The second way a brake reduces recoil is to have contact surfaces perpendicular to the bullet's flight path for the gas to run into, essentially pushing the gun forward and removing some of the recoil created by the equal and opposite reaction of the bullet moving down the barrel. This is why suppressors are such effective recoil reducers. The third way is, like you said, to direct muzzle gasses slightly rearward, using the powder gasses as a sort of rocket engine to push the gun forward.

Most brakes for sub-.50 caliber guns just utilize the first two principles. I have one on a .308 autoloader that looks similar to the OP's but with fewer baffles the gun shoot softer than an AK. His design should work ok.

January 9, 2010, 05:33 PM
maybe not backwards, but in a direction other than forwards. besides most suppressors you see have an integral muzzle brake, thats pretty much what the baffles do.

Boris Barowski
January 9, 2010, 05:38 PM
5 ports is a lot. 3 will work very well normally :)

January 9, 2010, 05:39 PM
can someone please just suggest a material and not a new design?

January 9, 2010, 05:41 PM
Are the first two not essentially the same? both directing gases perpendicular to the flight of the bullet?

January 9, 2010, 05:48 PM
I don't think any aluminium is strong enough to last. Titanium will be expensive and hard to machine. I'm thinking chromemoly steel for price and strenght. Maybe 4140 like many barrels?

January 9, 2010, 05:56 PM
if it were me i'd use the same type of steel that the barrel is made from. then you'd have no issues with the two components heating up and expanding at different rates potentially causing binding, warping or changing the shape of the muzzle crown all of which would of course negatively affect accuracy.


January 9, 2010, 06:07 PM
4140 prehard or 416 stainless. for about $20 you should be able to get enough to make one or two for yourself & a couple to sell.
side fin muzzel brakes do work very well & there is nothing i can see wrong with your design or the number of ports.
titanium would be cool but its also very pricey.

January 9, 2010, 06:12 PM
Kurt, the specific alloy I talked about, 7075-T6 is roughly twice as strong as 6061-T6. The 7075-T6 has an 83,000 lb tensile strength and a 78,000 psi yield strength, I'm sure that alloy is strong enough. Im just concerned about the material melting after so many shots because aluminum does heat up rapidly, and it stays hot too. The titanium is not hard to machine, you just have to know how. Slow rpms and High feed rates. Its about like machining stainless. It does have low thermal conductivity which I thought might be good seeing as it wont get soft as quick. Bobarino, metal expanding at different rates is not a concern. The different diameters, even of the same material, will make the expansion rates different.

Jim Watson
January 9, 2010, 06:26 PM
The only homemade muzzle brake compensator I have seen was cut out of a piece of old gun barrel, hence chrome moly.

January 9, 2010, 06:37 PM
Define homemade. Gun smiths have the same tools that I have available. A lathe, a mill, and a bunch of other neat stuff. So, seeing as the majority of gun smiths make theirs by hand, could you not say that the muzzle brakes they make are also "homemade?" I dont mean to insult, just something to think about.

January 9, 2010, 06:40 PM
Keep in mind im not take a peice of metal and taking a hack saw and a drill press to it. i have the precision epuipment available to me.

January 9, 2010, 07:37 PM
I think if you used standard flash suppressor threading on an aluminum brake they would strip out after a while. I made one from aluminum once that used a pair of set screws to mount it over a FN-49 front cap (didn't want to mess with lefthand internal metric threads) and the whole piece deformed in ten shots from the gasses pulling it forward. Keep thinking I will adapter it to some new use one of these days.

Jim K
January 9, 2010, 07:46 PM
That brake is going to have to stand up to the force of powder gas moving very fast, much like a cutting torch. I doubt anything other than good steel would hold up.

But, it really doesn't sound like EP1990 is asking for advice or opinion; he has already made his choice and wants us to congratulate him for his wisdom in making it.


January 9, 2010, 09:23 PM
I'd go with the pre heat treat 4140. It will Rc at about 38, and is likely what your barrel is made of already. It's also less expensive than stainless and easier in general to work. That being said, I actually like working stainless, although it's a bear to polish. If you go with stainless, stick with 303 or 316, and avoid 304.

January 9, 2010, 09:35 PM
Aluminum is a non-starter for a muzzle brake.

You have super-heated gasses mixed with highly abrasive burning powder particles hitting the brake at hyper-sonic speeds.
Think white-hot sand blaster.

Aluminum will simply erode away quickly in key areas and just won't last long.
These are the reasons no one makes an aluminum muzzle brake for any type of higher power firearm.

January 9, 2010, 09:42 PM
I was thinking a 7075-T6 aluminum or 6A1-4V Titanium.

Interesting you choose two materials that no one makes few make brakes out of.

I'd opt for 303 stainless.

Jim Watson
January 9, 2010, 10:14 PM
There were some light metal compensators made for pistol calibers; a friend has a titanium Briley .38 Super. But it is only handling about 10% of the incandescent powder gas of a rifle caliber. I doubt it would have a long service life on a .300 W.M. But so what? You have the equipment, if you wear one out, make another.

January 9, 2010, 10:29 PM
Jim I understand where your coming from. If one cantt back themself up, why should i go with their idea? I was looking for a explanation on metallurgical properties, and why or why not I should use this metal or that. Sounds like aluminum is just gonna wear away, someone made that argument and i can believe the to be true, no matter the alloy. Sounds like even titanium wont hold up for any more length of time then a steel one would. Being that titanium costs many more times then steel its just not cost effective. So it sounds like im looking at a stainless alloy for the brake. 316 or 416.

January 9, 2010, 10:33 PM
Thanks for the help everyone. Made my choice now. 316 stainless but I might make one out of titanium just because.

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