Dying polymer


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jobu07
January 17, 2010, 05:42 PM
I'm looking for some step by step instructions on what goes into dying a polymer gunstock. In this case I want to go from a light color to black.

Additionally, if any of you have done this before i'd like to know how your products turned out. Also, are there any better options?

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kwelz
January 17, 2010, 06:46 PM
A lot of this depends on the type of material in a stock. Polymer is not a specific type of material. It is a whole class of material. Some are much more porous than others. Some can be easily dyed, others can not, and the results on the ones that can be done are going to vary as well.

jobu07
January 17, 2010, 06:57 PM
It's an HK USC.

kwelz
January 17, 2010, 08:10 PM
I doubt that you are going to have much luck using commonly available stuff on the market. You would be much better off having it duracoated.

Lanyard
January 17, 2010, 10:24 PM
RIT works well and duracoat chips.

The authority on all things HK.

http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52130

Lanyard

jobu07
January 17, 2010, 10:40 PM
Thank you much Lanyard. I found tomorrow's project :D

I'll post pics of the process as I go through it and the results.

jobu07
January 18, 2010, 09:22 PM
The day off proved fruitful for dying this stockset. Here are some pics and the process I ended up using.

You have the before pictures of the parts, the ingredients and the finished product.

The dying process, while lengthier than painting, proved very successful. There was a bit of set up involved, but no more so than if I had painted it.

Utilized were 4 bottles of black RIT dye and 2 boxes of green to ensure there is no purple haze in the finish. The dye was put into an old cooler I pulled out of the closet and lined with a trash bag. Mixed with probably 2 to 3 gallons of boiling water, the cooler helped it retain the heat until the very end. When I removed the pieces six hours after submerging them steam was still rising out of the cooler.

My understanding is the dye will prove to have more longevity than paint which can be scratched off revealed the original gray. If scratched this retains its finish. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I opted not to do the lower receiver as a UMP kit is on the way. The pictures of the assembeld rifle show you the difference in coloration. If the pictures appear off in anyway (we all know how amateur photography is) I assure you the polymer parts are very much so black and match the existing black plastic very closely.

One item I did notice, though, was the HK emblem on the buttstock faded significantly. Reports in the reading I did turned up most people saying the HK emblem stayed crisp and clear after four or so hours. Some people went up to 12 and noted it faded like it did on mine. I think after four hours it seems to fade a lot. I did the buttstock in addition to the upper receiver simply because it easy. I could have done the lower as well, but there is a UMP kit on the way AND there's a lot of pins to punch out for the trigger group I didn't want to mess with - in other words i'm lazy ;).

The hardest part of the entire process was lining up the charging handle and tube inside the upper receiver so I could set the retaining pin again. Next time i'll grow a third hand!

But, I just wanted to put up some pics and talk about the process. Thanks.

Prion
January 18, 2010, 09:30 PM
Cool, I did my first polymer dye job the other day on a pair of dark earth Sig grips. Mine look great, resist solvents, oils, etc. and doesn't bleed at all. Used Rit and boiling water as well. Would definitely recommend over painting.

7X57chilmau
January 19, 2010, 09:42 AM
I use a similar technique to dye model aircraft props (glass filled nylon). It's about the only way I can colour them and not have the alcohol based fuel eat thru the colour.

Well done.

J

highorder
January 19, 2010, 12:05 PM
We hockey players dye blade holders (the white piece that holds steel runner to skate boot) using the same methods. They are made of Zytel (nylon) and take dye well.

rmfnla
January 19, 2010, 07:23 PM
I would have sworn that plastic would not take a dye.

Y'learn something new every day!

7X57chilmau
January 20, 2010, 09:10 AM
Many plastics won't dye, but nylon often will. Try a "small area"... :)

Incidentally, nylon tends to stiffen with age... It can be returned to it's original pliability by boiling in water.... Might as well dye it while you're at it!

J

jobu07
January 24, 2010, 02:19 PM
Just wanted to post an updated photo of the girl as she progresses. HDPS rails arrived for it yesterday. I put them on and mounted an old Aimpoint and Surefire. Once I find that pesky FPG that will go on as well, even though I don't usually care for them. This one just screams for the pistol grip.

Anyway, next phase of the project is waiting for the UMP kit to arrive. Then she will be complete. Here's some picks of the rails.

jobu07
February 1, 2010, 08:48 PM
In case anyone was wondering what the finished product looks like here's a pic. :D

Prion
February 1, 2010, 10:44 PM
Very cool, where did you pick up the UMP kit?

Prion
February 1, 2010, 10:47 PM
Oh, maybe the big sticker is a clue!

jobu07
February 2, 2010, 08:33 AM
LOL. Yeah, HDPS provided the kit and milled out the area where the mag well mates up to the upper so the upper receiver would accept UMP subgun mags. All said and done, a very expensive project for a bunch of plastic but it was too cool of an opportunity to pass up.

highorder
February 2, 2010, 11:34 AM
Are you planning on SBR'ing it?

jobu07
February 2, 2010, 03:40 PM
I would love to SBR it. If I did so, it would be my first entry into that world. The same company I got the carbine kit from also sells the 7 1/4" barrels as well. It sure would look sweet.

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