Lee Pro 1000 Solutions < No Bashing >


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bds
February 24, 2010, 12:42 AM
This informational exchange thread is for those that already reload or DECIDED TO RELOAD on the Lee Pro 1000 progressive press. It is similar to the sticky "What clever little things have you 'invented or discovered' that you can share?" thread but specific to the Pro 1000 (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=218188).

Keeping the posts in the following format will help those looking for solutions to their Pro 1000 problems. Of course, feel free to post any "clever little things" you have done to better your reloading experience on your Pro 1000.
Problem:
XXXXXXXXXXXX

Solution:
XXXXXXXXXXXX

If you are new to reloading, I recommend you first learn the basic reloading safety practices and principles. Many THR members will suggest you start on a single stage press - please check out the numerous THR single stage/reloading basics threads by using the search feature under the Handloading and Reloading category.

If you are looking to bash, rip or attack the Pro 1000 press or make comparisons to other progressive presses, please respect the THR intent/spirit and withhold your negative comments (perhaps you may want to start a similar thread for your make/model of reloading press.

Now, let's network and help out fellow Pro 1000 users! :D

If you enjoyed reading about "Lee Pro 1000 Solutions < No Bashing >" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
bds
February 24, 2010, 12:45 AM
Here are some reference pictures and links (I will update as I find better links):

Factory parts page: http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/lp1000.html

Factory Pro 1000 Instructions: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/TR2441.pdf''

Tutorial for setting up Pro 1000: http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ammo-can/56881-lee-pro-1000-set-up-tutorial-sticky.html

Other links:
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.guns/2006-05/msg02199.html

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=116335&stc=1&d=1266993659

jmortimer
February 24, 2010, 01:16 AM
Now this is a good idea for a thread. Take the least expensive progressive with a huge upside and make it work. Can't wait to keep up with this.

bds
February 24, 2010, 01:38 AM
Problem:
Primer feed arm (slider) runs dry of primers even though primer tray has primers causing primer jam/misfeed.

Solution:
Make sure the inserted wire on the side of the primer feed arm makes contact with the grooves on the frame tube to keep the primer tray shaking as the shell plate carrier goes up and down - this will keep the primer feed arm filled with primers.

You can make the adjustment by loosening the hex bolt on the right side of the shell plate carrier and rotating the carrier clockwise until the wire makes contact with the frame tube. Tighten the hex bolt back and actuate the ram lever up and down to check for proper "clicking of the wire and shaking of the primer tray".
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=116336&stc=1&d=1266996469

straitnate14
February 24, 2010, 02:40 AM
where the primer tray opens up for the primers to flow onto the chute I cut it so that it's not a 90 and more like a 45 if that makes sence? kinda looks lika a V now and that helped alot as far as primers getting stuck in the tray and not droping in the chute. I also bent that rod that is attached to the primer system in to make it vibrate more and ever since then as long as I dont let the primer tray run dry I have had no problems with primers, I'm loading 45ACP with my 1000 and I love it

rivraton
February 24, 2010, 03:30 AM
Problem:
Dropped primers when installing tray to chute.
Solution:
Drill a 1/16" hole in the cover to the primer tray right at the exit point and use a bent paperclip to hold back the primers when installing the full tray to the chute.

sqroot3
February 24, 2010, 03:53 AM
Problem: supplied spring for autodisk powder measure is too stiff, hence increasing the likelihood of breaking the brass chain.

Solution: instead, use the spring from any retractable pen; these springs are much lighter but still get the job done. make sure the new spring is at near-full compression when the shellplate is in its bottommost position.

evan price
February 24, 2010, 04:26 AM
Problem: Spent primers build up underneath the press base

Solution: Find a small plastic bottle, such as vitamins or pharmacy medicines are sold in. Find a hole saw that is about the same size as the inside of the bottle. Drill a hole in the lid of the bottle so that you have a ring that threads onto the neck of the bottle. Unbolt your press from your work surface. Use the same hole saw to drill a hole down through the work top. Use super glue, screw, small nails, or whatever method you choose to secure the lid/ring to the underside of the table. Now you can screw the bottle on and off of the lid/ring under the table. Spent primers will collect in the bottle for disposal, so you don't have to unbolt the press to clean under there.



Problem: Finished rounds do not eject properly from the shellplate

Solution: Bend the tip of the ejector wire outwards and then inwards to make a sort of "hook" in the wire. The bottom of the hook should face out. This will start the rounds ejecting sooner and not let them get bound up in the shellplate. Very useful for larger diameter shells.


Problem: Finished rounds pile up on the finished round chute instead of sliding down

Solution: Use ultrafine steel wool or sandpaper to polish the chute. Apply some case sizing lube, Pam cooking spray, silicon oil (best!) or wax to the chute. Now rounds will slip down easily.


Problem: Tall cases such as .357 Magnum and .223 tend to tilt coming out of the case feeder or fall over.

Solution: Adjust the gap between the bottom of the case feeder and the top of a case sitting on the feed horn so that a nickle will fit between there. Sometimes the case feeder flexes while the press runs and this can cause cases to get hung up there if the gap is too tight. Also, do not lubricate the feeder horn the cases sit on while being slid into the carrier- too slippery here and the case will slip out of position.


Problem: OAL of finished rounds varies, usually deeper.

Solution: Crud in seater die. Disassemble and clean the die.


Problem: Cases do not enter the resize die squarely, and sometimes they get hung up on the rim of the resize die.

Solution: Carefully shim the top of the ram with a piece of paper on the side closest to the operator. Sometimes the shellplate carrier has a slight tilt towards the operator, this will help it.


Problem: Primers going sideways, flipping upside down, or getting squished on insertion

Soution1: Primers need to be kept in the priemr chute to a level above the curve in teh chute. You may have a jam in the primer tray (the little jiggler pin needs to keep the primers jiggled apart so they feed into the chute). You may be low on primers. A piece of debris may have fallen in the primer chute. Excess powder may have fallen into the primer punch recess.
I keep a tiny makeup brush next to the tray. It was leftover from one of my wife's makeup kits. It's a tiny brush about as big as a kitchen match. It's the perfect size to clean out the primer tray and under the shellplate. A can of compressed air like used to clean computer keyboards works well, too.

Solution2: Shellplate timing! The rotation of the shellplate in relation to the movement of the ram is critical to ensure the primer arrives at the right place at the same time as the case. If the case is delayed, the rotation of the case will wipe the primer sideways off of the primer punch and make it sideways or upside down.

A properly timed shellplate will have the case arrive in the primer slot before the primer punch starts pushing on the primer.

To adjust, follow the Lee procedure. Adjust the shellplate with the phillips screw so that it is about to the spring-loaded ball detent. Then turn it slowly so that the ball detent pulls the shellplate ahead for you when it locks in place. Then turn the screw another half turn. That's it. Should be right on the money now.


Problem: High primers

Solution: First, look at the top of the red mounting base next to the bump which is where the primer punch hits. Is there a spent primer that has fallen in there and prevents the carrier from going all the way down and pushing the primer punch up?

Next ensure the brass is not crimped primer brass. Next make sure the brass is not Seller & Bellot- they have tight pockets.
Next, ensure you are fully pushing the ram to the top of its stroke and not short-stroking the ram. I have my press handle set so that at the top of the stroke, my right ring and pinky fingers will grab the upright bar on the press and help me pull my hand on the handle further towards the top of stroke. I don't use the wooden ball knob on my Pro-1000.
Next check to make sure the primer punch is not worn down, the right punch is installed for the primer size you are using.

jfh
February 24, 2010, 08:13 AM
Problem: shellplate timing adjustment does not affect carrier timing.

Solution: Install new adjustment parts in the carrier. The nylon 'nut' tends to strip out if the adjustments are done extensively.

Jim H.

Glock20
February 24, 2010, 12:00 PM
This is a great thread and will be useful to many Pro1000 users.

Problem: Cases not fitting tight in the shellholder from repeated removal of cases for inspection, etc.

Solution: Remove the case retainer spring and bend it so it fits tight against the edge of the shellplate, then reinstall.

It's also a good idea to have a selection of replacement parts on hand. Lee parts are very inexpensive and for $20.00 you can have enough parts on hand to last for years.

From Lee's website -
TA2368 - Hex Ratchet - 3 for 0.50
TR2432 - Ratchet Gear - $3.00 ea
TR2242 - Ejector Pin - 2 for $1.00
TR2243 - Tension Fingers - 4 for $1.00
TR2549 - Sensor Clip - $1.00 ea

rivraton
March 2, 2010, 02:24 AM
So.... did we cover all the problems and solutions in only 7 posts?

bds
March 2, 2010, 02:30 AM
So.... did we cover all the problems and solutions in only 7 posts?

I guess we are all busy fixing our Pro 1000 with the above posted solutions :D

I am planning to post more fixes and tips, but didn't want to steal everyone's wind. :rolleyes: Trying to be polite to fellow Pro 1000 reloaders, you know. ;)

Nate1778
March 2, 2010, 09:00 AM
Here is an easier fix to the collator for 9mm I just figured out and posted over at Loadmaster zone. I got tired of trying to find the screw and plastic piece and making them was a pain.

This came at the end of a loading session and I was in the man cave enjoying a man drink and it hit me.

the 1 cent fix







.22 casing and a penny

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/nate1778/DSC_0429.jpg


Drill a hole in the penny and fit the case through the hole. On a grinder cut the casing down to about half its length.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/nate1778/DSC_0427.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/nate1778/DSC_0430.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/nate1778/DSC_0431.jpg


This mod works great and every case falls in the right direction. Its easy to make and easy to hold onto.

bds
March 2, 2010, 01:16 PM
I have to admit that case collator solution for smaller cases is better than the square piece of cardboard/plastic taped/screwed to the center. And it is easily removed too.

Thanks for all the helpful posts everyone and I am sure new/old Pro 1000 users feel the same!

Also, the posts don't necessarily have to be a fix to a problem. If you have ideas/mods to better the Pro 1000, there will be many (me included) who will benefit from them.

Dave Bone
March 2, 2010, 07:29 PM
I too am a proud Pro 1000 owner. She is finicky to set up but, once there good to go. Fast loading machine, with bullet feeder.


Problem: bullet feeder starts its upward motion before it has extended all the way under the seating die (40 caliber, 180 grain bullet).

Solution: I clipped a 2.6 ounce folding knife to the side of the feeder, adding just the right amount of weight to make the feeder fully extend before traveling up to the seating die.

Dave Bone
March 2, 2010, 08:29 PM
Problem: catching spent primers (another way)

Solution: I notched my bench and recessed the press into the notch Then I mounted a small plastic container under the bench, held in place with a metal clip.



Problem How many rounds have I loaded?

Solution I mounted a small mechanical counter to the front of the Pro 1000, drilled a small hole in the case feeder frame and attached a spring to the counter arm and frame.

FROGO207
March 2, 2010, 09:36 PM
Problem: I don't like my Pro 1000.

Solution: PM me and we'll talk a deal.:D

bds
March 3, 2010, 12:50 AM
Problem: I don't like my Pro 1000.
Solution: PM me and we'll talk a deal.

Sounds like a win-win proposal. Are you throwing in any dies, etc.?

With the tips mentioned on this thread, the buyer should have that Pro 1000 humming in no time. :D


This problem is not specific to Pro 1000 and works for other progressive presses too.

Problem: As powder charged case "clicks" into station, some of the powder shakes out of the case.

Solution: I tried carefully "clicking" the shell plate into station/riding the case with my finger but didn't work and took too much time. I usually feed the bullets with my left hand and I simply cover the opening of the case with the bullet (it's going in there anyways) or my finger tip as the case is "clicking" into station. No more spilled powder and no more inconsistently charged loads.

JLCook
March 5, 2010, 09:15 PM
problem: I only have a pro 1000 and want to load for my rifle.

Solution: The 45 acp shell plate accommodates any case with the same head dimensions as the 308 win. ( which is a good portion of common rifle calibers). Remove the spinner rod from the center of the shell plate carrier and presto, now you have a turret press for loading rifle calibers. I am not sure if full length rounds (such as 30 06) will have enough clearance for bullet seating, but short action rounds will work fine. I am loading for my 7x57 with my pro 1000.

bds
March 6, 2010, 12:38 AM
Remove the spinner rod from the center of the shell plate carrier and presto, now you have a turret press

You know, in all my reloading years, I have never thought to do that. Great tip! I can think of all kinds of applications with this now.

For one, if someone wanted to do a small batch of load development, removing the center rod will essentially turn the progressive into a single stage press. Instead of screwing the dies in/out, you simply rotate the 3 hole turret.

qrashandburn
March 10, 2010, 04:02 PM
It probably took me at least a week of tweaking before I could hum though 100 rounds at a time without any problems, but now that I'm there my only problem with the press is running out of components.

Problem: Ram becomes decoupled from shell plate carrier on the down stroke after resizing.

Solution: Pin ram to shell plate carrier.

With ram in upmost postion reengaged with shell carrier, drill 1/8th hole through base of shell carrier, through the ram and out the back side of the carrier. Blow out all filings and other metal bits with compressed air, then oil 2 shortened 1/8th pins and insert one in the front and one in the back. This will provide sufficient linkage to be able to pull the stuck brass out of the die. Don't put the pin all the way through because you'll block the flow of spent primers out of the ram, resulting in jams on the downstroke, which is a real pain.

I'm using carbide 9mm dies which don't require lube, but the ram would always strip out of the carrier when I tried to pull the brass out of the resizer.

qrashandburn
March 10, 2010, 04:06 PM
Problem: catching spent primers (another way)

Solution: I notched my bench and recessed the press into the notch Then I mounted a small plastic container under the bench, held in place with a metal clip.



Problem How many rounds have I loaded?

Solution I mounted a small mechanical counter to the front of the Pro 1000, drilled a small hole in the case feeder frame and attached a spring to the counter arm and frame.
That counter is such a cool idea! Where'd you get the parts?

Dave Bone
March 10, 2010, 05:53 PM
I can not really tell you where to find a like counter. Sorry! This one was removed from one of our OBI press, during an upgrade to digital controls and counter.

I suggest a search at McMaster Carr or MSC Industrial Supply.

Hope this helps!

ants
March 10, 2010, 06:26 PM
http://www.hand-counters.com/products/Stroke_counter.html?count=5

ants
March 10, 2010, 06:30 PM
By the way,
...the ram would always strip out of the carrier when I tried to pull the brass out of the resizer. It is very often the expanding die that gets stuck, not the sizing die. Make sure the plug in your expanding die is very smooth and clean; polish it if it has a rough surface.

If you find that it is the sizing die, it might help to clean the die and tumble the brass (I know you always do this, but double check to make sure).

Dave Bone
March 10, 2010, 06:50 PM
Good look'n out there, ants! 14 bucks for a brand new counter? Can't beat that!

bds
March 10, 2010, 09:40 PM
The posts are awesome. Reading some of them made me realize I am under utilizing my little Pro 1000. :D

Keep up the great work everyone!


Problem: Pro 1000 only has 3 holes and I have a 4 die set.

Solution: If you deprime/size and hand prime separately, you can now use the 3 holes for the rest of 4 die set.

evan price
March 11, 2010, 02:43 AM
Problem: Cases from the case feeder sometimes do not go into the shell holder all the way and this causes jams when the case gets stuck between the shell holder and the carrier.

Solution: Adjust the length of the "Z"-bar so that it pushes the case all the way into the notch in the shell plate... The "Z"-bar has a spring-loaded arm on the left press post that tensions the "Z"-bar so don't be afraid to push that shell in there.

Solution, 2: Be sure you have the "Z"-bar in the right hole in the side of the case pusher. One of my case pushers has two holes, one at the rear and one more forward. You want the "Z"-bar in the one more forward.


PROBLEM: The case feeder & tubes flexes when you are really going to town on the press, and this can cause slipped cases at the case pusher, cases to jam at the case feeder rotary collar, etc.

Solution: I put an old wooden ruler in the middle of the case feeder tubes, and added some Duct Tape to make a bundle. Now it's pretty stiff and no more swinging around.


Problem: Case feeder "jumps" in the middle of the horn, and the case gets out of position/falls over

Solution: Take the carrier off the press and look at the horn with a straight edge. Often if a case falls over and is not noticed, it gets crushed under the top of the press. This will cause the horn to deform, twist, or get a divot mashed into it.

You can straighten the horn by careful application of a small crescent wrench to twist it back into shape. You can remove burrs and divots with a fine file, or I use one of the emory-boards with foam inside my wife gets from the nail salon. Use the case pusher by hand to feel for where it sticks and then make it smooth. A bit of lubricant on the sides of the horn where the pusher slides will make it better, but try not to lube the top of the horn where the case slides, if it is too slippery here the cases are more likely to fall over.

qrashandburn
March 13, 2010, 08:55 PM
By the way,
It is very often the expanding die that gets stuck, not the sizing die. Make sure the plug in your expanding die is very smooth and clean; polish it if it has a rough surface.

If you find that it is the sizing die, it might help to clean the die and tumble the brass (I know you always do this, but double check to make sure).
It's the resizing die to be sure, the brass was brand new and so was the die. Also I isolated the problem to resizing by only running one at a time.

mdp75
September 23, 2010, 12:44 AM
My wife and I can size and prime 1000 cases in about 1.5 hours on my two single stage presses. I then dump the primed cases in the tubes. move the expander powder charge to station one bullet seating to station 2 and lee FCD to station 3 and then its nothing but finished rounds 1000 rounds in 3 hours is not uncommon.

Hondo 60
September 23, 2010, 06:19 PM
Bunch of great posts! Please keep it up.


Lee made a kit to convert the 3 hole turret press to a 4 holer. Why can they do the same with the Pro 1000?

I know I'd buy the kit. Just think of all the shell plates & turrets they sell!

bds
September 23, 2010, 08:41 PM
Problem: When depriming, spent primers don't always go into the hole of the base to be collected.

Solution: Cut a 5/8" x 1 7/8" piece out of cardboard/aluminum sheet and roll into a semi-circle channel. Place the piece into the primer channel of the ram curved side out. Slowly work the ram to make sure the bottom of the channel clears the base lip of the ram hole. Now, all the spent primers fall into the hole for collection.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128105&stc=1&d=1285288833

bloominonion
February 4, 2011, 02:47 AM
I know this is a somewhat old post, but I specifically joined this forum after much lurking about just so I could add my .02 on the Lee Pro 1000 since I can't find these ideas anywhere else.

1) Disassemble the shellplate carrier and use a brass wire brush in a Dremel to polish the cartridge ejection port, where the shellplate contacts the carrier, as well as the bottom of the shellplate, and the rail the bullet feeder slides on. (Just be sure to go slow and gentle, continually checking for ANY heat buildup or you can start to screw up the surface and make it rougher.) You can take it a step further and use a cloth polishing wheel with some polish for a mirror like finish.

Then lube everything with powdered graphite, work it into the surfaces, and blow any excess graphite off the surfaces.

This will make everything move like it is riding on ball bearings.

2)If you have the bullet feeder attachment, add a small washer around the screw it rides on to increase the surface area to prevent binding. Lube the contact surfaces of slider and screw/washers with powdered graphite, working it into the plastic. Tighten screw down, then back off 1/2 to 1 full turn (basically till the assembly moves smoothly with no binding).

3) Attach bullet feeder assembly to the frame of the loader to allow switching of shellplates with dies already setup. (Do this step only if you are mechanically inclined, and you can order the plate that the feeder assembly bolts through from Lee for $5 to prevent messing up the one you have)


Major lesson learned so far is: Lube everything with powdered graphite as it won't become sticky, build up with dirt or grime.

Mike Kerr
February 4, 2011, 06:25 PM
Welcome to the HighRoad Bloominonion. That was a great first post - very informative. I'll look forward to seeing more of your posts. I joined just after the Forum started in early 2003 but like you I lurk and read more than I post because I learn more that way.

Regards,

:):):)

bloominonion
February 5, 2011, 10:24 PM
Forgot to add one.

Problem: Bullet feeder assembly not consistently placing bullet/moving up too soon (or just generally not performing well)

Solution:
1) See my above post about washer and graphite lubrication.
2) Add a counterweight off the very tail end of the bullet feeder assembly. You can either use a hook with a weight tied to it, or drill a small hole through the edge of the feeder (the lowest part of the little incline) and put a nail through it, and hang weight off that. I used a 3" diameter zinc pulley.

Bullet feeder will become MUCH smoother with these modifications. It became a whole new thing for me.

Lost Sheep
February 9, 2011, 02:39 AM
Problem:
Dropped primers when installing tray to chute.
Solution:
Drill a 1/16" hole in the cover to the primer tray right at the exit point and use a bent paperclip to hold back the primers when installing the full tray to the chute.
There's an easier way to keep the primers from falling out too soon.

Take a piece of universal custom tool stock. (That's a shade-tree mechanic technical term for "paper clip")

Straighten out one loop. (The rest of the paper clip should remain curled up for easier handling)

Bend 1/8" of the end of the straightened loop down, perpendicular to the plane of the rest of the un-straightened paper clip. This is now the "Primer Block". The loopy part is called the Handle" and the straight part between the Primer Block and the Handle is called the "Shaft".

Place the Handle of the tool flat on the cover of the primer flipper tray with the primer block sticking down into the primer exit ramp of the flipper tray so that the primers are blocked from exiting the flipper tray.

Now, you can insert the primer flipper tray into the primer feed ramp in a leisurely manner without losing any primers.

If the Primer Block is slightly longer than necessary, the shaft of the tool will be slightly raised up from the flipper tray cover and easy to grasp when you want to remove the tool.

If you want to interrupt loading, just insert the tool between two primers (off to the side, you probably don't want to stick the tool right into the primer cup).

Lost Sheep

kingmt
February 10, 2011, 08:04 PM
Take a piece of universal custom tool stock.
Lost Sheep
That sounds smiler to mine.

Bruce Lytle
February 27, 2011, 03:58 PM
Just found this thread, a lot of good information. I've already done some of the above in the week or so I've had it, about the only thing I haven't done it lube it all with graphite. I've got a 5# can of it that I've had for 15 years or so, finally something to use it on!
I'm waiting to reload more rounds till I get my micro-adjustable charge bar, bullet feeder and case collator. With all the time on my hands, I've been playing with some idea's.
For one thing, I notice that the turret goes up and down a bit when cases go into their dies. My thinking says this is not a good thing, as far as stuff jamming, bullet seating depths, case expansion, you know... So I've shimmed up under the lugs of the turret with feeler gauges (for now) to take the slack out. This way the turret is in the same position every time. I've ran a few cases through it and all seems to be working ok. I could be wrong, (about the movement being bad) but I've always thought "tight is right" when it comes to dies and fixtures.

bds
February 27, 2011, 09:02 PM
Bruce Lytle, welcome to THR.

For me, running a few hundred cycles through the Pro Auto Disk with W231/HP38 sufficiently coat and lubricate the moving surfaces. I use W231/HP38 in all new Pro Auto Disk setup as my "break in" powder.

For one thing, I notice that the turret goes up and down a bit when cases go into their dies. My thinking says this is not a good thing, as far as stuff jamming, bullet seating depths, case expansion, you know... So I've shimmed up under the lugs of the turret with feeler gauges (for now) to take the slack out. .
This play is not a problem as the final dimensions for case expansion (flare) and bullet seating depth are determined always with the shellplate carrier pushing upwards with the bottom of the turret lugs engaging the top lugs of the frame - so the amount of play has no effect. You having shimmed under the turret simply engaged the lugs sooner, but this may pose a problem explained below.

This way the turret is in the same position every time.
Actually, having some "play" between the turret and the frame has its benefits. Some reloaders experience shaving of case sides when alignment between the sizing die and shellplate is not straight. Pro 1000's play allows self-aligning of case/shell plate to sizing die/turret as the case enters the die opening.

One thing that will affect the final dimensions of case neck flare (expansion) and bullet seating (But this applies to all progressive presses), is when you have less than full shellplate (say 1 case vs 3 cases) applying even pressure on the shellplate, there will be some deflection (tilting) of the shellplate to very slightly vary the case neck flare/bullet seat depth. I always set the bullet seat depth with station 1 resizing a case and station 2 flaring the case neck as seating the bullet alone in station 3 produced different seating depth. Of course, each time you check the bullet seat depth, you need to use another unsized case in station 1 and unflared case in station 2 so as to apply pressure on the shellplate as reusing sized and flared cases would not apply the same pressure on the shellplate.

Another thing is that you'll notice some variations in bullet seat depth of your finished rounds ever so slightly (say around +/- 0.0005" or more). This is normal for cases that have been reloaded several times as case length will not be the same. Different length cases will affect case neck flare amount and bullet seat depth.

I would recommend you use the press without any shimming. If you are curious, make some test rounds (with same length cases) and see if the "play" makes any difference you can measure. :D

Bruce Lytle
February 28, 2011, 02:00 AM
I understand what you are saying about the "alignment" clearance. I was working with it the other day, trying to get the OAL right for a load and found that the best I could do without the shims was +.003 -.0005 with 10 rounds. I am aware of the different pressures on the shellplate, and was using "used" cases like I was normally loading, just didn't put in any primers or powder using the same pressure, ensuring that I'm at full travel each stroke. With the shims I was getting +/- .0005. All of my cases measure .888", well a couple are .887. They've been fired once. I have some I've fired twice, they've gone to .890 - .891". All are R-P cases.

bds
February 28, 2011, 03:23 AM
Out of curiosity, what bullets were you using? Depending on the bullet types used (jacketed, plated, lead, moly coated lead), I have noticed difference of variations in OAL produced. Keep in mind that as such, some variations are inherent to progressive presses.

All in all, some very slight variations won't affect your shot group accuracy enough to matter. For match grade reloads, I try to improve the consistency as much as I can, but there's a point of diminishing return.

For pistol loads, powder charge consistency variation of less than 0.1 gr and clustering of bullets by same weight produced the most significant return on accuracy. I found other factors such as different head stamp cases, very slight OAL variations and primers produced less significant return.

You may experience erratic drops with the adjustable charge bar for lower pistol charges with certain powders. Although W231/HP38 drops very accurately for me in the Auto Disks, I have hard time making it drop consistently for charges below 5 grains. Some have reshaped the chamber of the adjustable charge bar with some success and can post their experience.

Bruce Lytle
February 28, 2011, 12:34 PM
Currently I'm using 185 gr Hornady XTP's, Loading them to 7.0 gr of bullseye, with a COL of 1.230". I'm waiting for a micro-adjust charge bar, as the auto disk's are impossible to get certain charges, even with 2. I figured the micro-adjust will do more than the double disk kit, simpler, and cost less.

Pete D.
February 28, 2011, 01:07 PM
Just saw this thread. I had been downstairs loading up .45 ACP cartridges..and...yep....I use a Pro 1000. I have two (.44 and .45)
The best buy in progressives (and I own two Dillons also).
The press has loaded two thousand rounds so far this year....that puts it at over 60K rounds since I bought it. I had to replace the plastic rachet gear twice.
Spent primers. The press is screwed to a wooden bench. Before I mounted it, I used a hole saw to cut a two inch diameter hole in the bench top. I installed the press over that hole. I could mount a can or a jar but, instead, I put duct tape over the hole on the bottom of the bench. When the base gets full, I hold a plastic container beneath the hole and remove the tape.

I use the micrometer powder bar for my loads - it is set for 4.0 grains of Bullseye and that is what it drops, year after year.
I use a case feeder but not a bullet feeder. Since I have to put a bullet into each case anyway, if a case is not sitting properly in the shellplate, it is a small matter to put it in with the flick of a finger.
Very few problems. Keep the primer tray full and there are even fewer.
Pete

bds
February 28, 2011, 09:51 PM
I will try to resume the thread's format.

Problem: auto disk's are impossible to get certain charges

Solution: I buy extra Auto Disks and drill them out for in-between drop charges. Whenever I am at gun shows, I look for them and usually pick up a 4 disk set for around $5. A new set is $11 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=870920).

raz-0
March 1, 2011, 02:54 PM
Not a lee progressive user. However one of you who is might want to hit up youtube and link some of the how-to videos. There are quite a bit there.

Pete D.
March 1, 2011, 09:47 PM
Problem: auto disk's are impossible to get certain charges

Solution: Use Lee's adjustable charge bar.

Pete

bds
September 5, 2011, 05:47 PM
Problem:
This is an update to post #32 to address the pesky problem of spent primers not going into the press base chute for collection. This time, for good. :D

Solution:
The cardboard stock worked well, for a while, but the edges swelled and I replaced it with a piece from an aluminum can. Since I really like the way Classic Turret captures spent primers in the plastic tube, I also shaped a small plastic funnel from the dollar store to collect the spent primers into a tube.

First, the easy part. Picture below shows an older Pro 1000 ram on top with a smaller spent primer drop cutout that has a sharper angle that worked about 90% of the time. The newer ram on the bottom shows a larger cutout that has less sharp deflect angle, but still works only about 95% of the time. To capture 100% of the spent primers, we need a cover to direct the spent primers into the press base chute.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148621&stc=1&d=1315257919

The cover is made from 1.75"x0.75" piece of aluminum can. I used a regular metal scissors to make the cut and a plastic coat hanger to apply the roll. The cover is inserted into the ram hole and pressed into the slot. Leave 1/2 inch opening at the bottom for spent primers to exit. Operate the ram lever slowly to ensure the bottom part of the cover clears the base. Now, essentially 100% of your spent primers should make it into the chute. Spent primer fouling may build up inside the ram. If so, pull off the cover by lifting at the bottom and replace after cleaning.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148622&stc=1&d=1315257919

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148624&stc=1&d=1315259434

If you already have a system of collecting spent primers that you are happy with, you can stop here. If you want to collect spent primers into a tube, then go to Part 2.

bds
September 5, 2011, 06:05 PM
Collecting pesky spent primer Part 2.

For years, I simply cut a hole on the bench top to collect spent primers into a container/trash can. Although this worked and I even mounted a small square baking pan to slide under the bench, I didn't like a mound of spent primers going off the bench whenever I removed the press off the bench.

I shaped a small plastic funnel from the dollar store using metal scissors/utility knife and attached it to the same size tube as the Classic Turret (Funnel drain tube was cut to increase the hole the primers would fall through and match the size of the tube). Now spent primers are collected into a container through the tube for easy disposal/recycling.

Left is an older Pro 1000 base with only one reinforcing rib in the middle. On the right is a newer Pro 1000 base with more extensive reinforcing ribs and the funnel cutouts needed to clear these reinforcement ribs. White circles show where the spent primers fall through.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148625&stc=1&d=1315260034

Plastic funnel cut shape:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148626&stc=1&d=1315260034

Plastic funnel with cutouts clearing the reinforcement ribs:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148627&stc=1&d=1315260165

And with collection tube attached:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148628&stc=1&d=1315260165

evan price
September 6, 2011, 06:49 AM
Tip 'o the hat to ya, BDS! That's nice.

codefour
September 7, 2011, 02:21 AM
I know the initial thread title was "no bashing". But why does every LEE thread have to start with "no bashing"..??

RCBS, Hornady, and Dillon threads do NOT start with "no bashing"..

LEE makes some good products but some products just require too much work to make them work as the other offerings..

I am not bashing LEE, but everything they make besides simple reloading products, i.e. dies etc, require too many mods to work..

Yes, I will keep my few LEE die sets, but will avoid there other mod requiring products.

I did not write this as a LEE bashing, but there are other product lines that offer a lot more..

kingmt
September 7, 2011, 03:00 AM
It says no bashing because people like to put there opinion where it isn't helpful. All tools are blamed for problems by the people that don't know how to use them. I have a Pro1000 & have yet to have the first problem with it. I have made a few mistakes tho. A mod isn't to make it work only to get it to do something different then it was designed to do. I've seen post on here for mods of other brands also.

evan price
September 7, 2011, 07:26 AM
Yes, I will keep my few LEE die sets, but will avoid there other mod requiring products.

I did not write this as a LEE bashing, but there are other product lines that offer a lot more..

Sure they do, but they cost more too. If I had to pay Dillon or Hornady or RCBS prices to start reloading I never would have done it. I don't mind the occaisional tinkering.

jfh
September 7, 2011, 07:33 AM
by not speculating any further about further Lee bashing--either pro or con. The issues Codefor raised are simply an adjunct discussion not suitable to this thread.

Jim H.

bds
September 7, 2011, 11:48 AM
I know the initial thread title was "no bashing". But why does every LEE thread have to start with "no bashing"..??

RCBS, Hornady, and Dillon threads do NOT start with "no bashing"..

LEE makes some good products but some products just require too much work to make them work as the other offerings..

I did not write this as a LEE bashing, but there are other product lines that offer a lot more..
I started this thread in February of 2010 after several Lee product threads were closed due to generalized Lee bashing and Lee vs other brand press comparisons that resulted with no constructive information provided to help OPs' problems.

Mind you, I have used other brand presses and admire products like Dillon Super 1050 and Hornady AP LNL for their level of construction and operational features.

The original intent of this thread was not to promote the Pro 1000 as the "best" progressive press out there (Believe me, it's not) but to provide help and support to those who already owned one or have decided to purchase one due to various reasons. For them, posting how a brand X press is better and offers more than the Pro 1000 press isn't going to help them with their problems. Offering practical solutions will get them back to reloading, which is all of our primary objective.

My hope with this support thread is to help Pro 1000 users get the most out of their presses and THR members respect that goal. Will brand comparisons and "Which is the best press" discussions ever end? No, but I think that's for another thread discussion.

Peace. ;)


If you want to contribute to this thread, the following format will help those looking for a particular solution quicker:

Problem: XXX

Solution: XXX

J_McLeod
September 25, 2011, 02:02 AM
Has anyone tried Tula or Wolf primers in their Pro1000? I know Lee says to only use Win or CCI.

bds
September 25, 2011, 02:25 AM
I have tried Tula SP/LP and Wolf LP in several Pro 1000 with the same result.

They are much harder to seat than Winchester/CCI/MagTech/PMC primers. It maybe due to slightly larger diameter of the Tula/Wolf primers and I must push very hard on the ram lever. For once-fired and tighter primer pocket cases, I have to hold the frame with my left hand while I push with my right hand to seat them. For Winchester, one hand pressure on the ram lever is sufficient.

So far, MagTech SP has been the easiest to seat with Winchester second.

As a comparison, when I hand prime on Auto Prime XR, I can seat a Winchester primer with my right thumb pressure. With Tula/Wolf primers, I must use two thumb pressure.

kingmt
September 25, 2011, 01:06 PM
Tula seat easier then CCI in my Pro1000. I have never used Win tho.

J_McLeod
September 25, 2011, 04:24 PM
Thanks for the help. Winchester is what I have on hand, and the easiest to get, so I'll stick with those for now. I just set my Pro 1000 up last night and ran some cases through it a few times with no powder or primers. I'll go back to the thread's original format

Problem: Case feeder does not stay in place well with the two nuts provided.

Still looking for a solution.

bds
September 25, 2011, 05:33 PM
J_McLeod, I use the upper nut to adjust for the height of the case (about 1/8" clearance) then I use a box end wrench to tighten the bottom nut while I hold the case feeder (black round part) about 1/16"-1/8" away from the press body (you may need to raise the shellplate carrier up to do this).

I use a short stubby box end wrench but apply firm enough pressure so the case feeder won't move. Just be sure you check the clearance from the press body by cycling the feeder a few times.

BTW, do not lube/oil the slide ramp case/slider moves. It needs to be kept dry or lightly lubes with dry graphite/#2 pencil lead.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=149818&stc=1&d=1316986442

evan price
September 26, 2011, 05:50 AM
I use thousands of Wolf primers in my Pro1K. Does need a bit extra push to seat them all the way.

I've got one specific shellplate carrier now that must be out-of-round. When it is fully tightened onto the ram the shellplate won't turn. Loosen the lock bolt and it turns. Seems to be the drive bolt shoulder is too tight in the carrier. I chucked the hex rod up in the cordless drill, removed the ball bearing check/stop, the spring fingers and the primer sensor, then took it for a five minute spin at high speed with the hex rod in the drill and the drive bolt and shellplate in the carrier. Now it works better but one of the three positions it will still stick. Odd, that. Going to have to try more honing.

bds
September 26, 2011, 09:29 AM
evan price, before anything, have you checked the condition of the nylon hex ratchet in reference to the ratchet gear?

Also, did you spin for 5 minutes with the lock bolt (allen head) tight or loose?

evan price
September 27, 2011, 06:15 AM
New hex ratchet made no difference. First thing I tried, although I have so far never needed to replace on out of many thousands loaded.
Bolt snug, not tight, not loose. The shellplate only seems to bind in one of the three positions now. Luckily this is the one I use for .223 & .32 so it does not get used a lot.

bds
September 27, 2011, 07:23 AM
Well, then how about a call to Lee customer service?

J_McLeod
September 27, 2011, 03:46 PM
I came up with another method to catch the spent primers from my turret and Pro 1000. I bought 2 1/2"x1' sections of plastic tubing for each press, and then ran one through each of the holes in the base of the press. Then I put a small cork at the end of each tube to hold the primers in. It was very easy to do, but in practice doesn't work as well as other methods. Sometimes the primers will get caught in the tube, so I put a zip tie down to unclog them. So probably not as effective as the funnel cutout, but it works.

bds
December 4, 2011, 03:04 PM
I posted this reply on another thread but since many reloaders experience issues with primer feeding on Pro 1000, I decided to add to this support thread. I hope this information will help new users of Pro 1000 avoid the dreaded "primer feed" frustration. :D


Problem:
Pro 1000 won't feed primers or cause flipped/sideways primer seating.

Solution:
In a rush to reload, how many of us just fill the primer tray and start the reloading session? I am guilty of that but soon learned a quick minute spent on checking the proper primer feed attachment function will save a lot of frustration during the reloading session.


After cleaning/lubing my Pro 1000, checking shell plate timing and weighing my powder charges until they are consistent (to allow settling of powder in the hopper); before starting a reloading session, I do a QC check of primer feed attachment.

I fill the primer feed ramp with primers and without any case in the shell plate, actuate the case sensor with my finger to see if the column of primers drop freely in the feed ramp and push a primer into station #2. If not, first check to see if the primer push rod is dropping with a "click" to allow a primer to slide down - Lee Precision has a nice video on this (if there's too much powder inside the primer rod tube, you'll need to disassemble the shell plate carrier to clean) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOhDMhYY9ug&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Then I look for obstruction that's keeping the primers from sliding freely and/or remove the primers and clean/polish the slide surface as necessary (some reloaders posted they use car polish/wax to make the surface slick but I just clean them with a Q-tip). If your primers are not sliding freely even after cleaning, you want to inspect the surface of the primer feed attachment for any gouging of plastic that maybe keeping the primers from sliding freely and smooth out the surface as needed. If the primer feed attachment is too far damaged, you may need to replace with a new one.

Note that if you are using a powder that's sized smaller than the flash hole, you'll get powder leakage when a primer is not seated in the primer pocket and the case is allowed to charge with powder.


During my reloading session, since the Pro 1000 primer feed attachment is gravity based that may not fully insert a primer into station #2 base if there is any obstruction in the feed channel (maybe few flakes of powder that may leak from operation of Auto Disk), I watch the column of primers in the feed channel as the shell plate clicks into station #2. If I don't see the primers dropping to insert the next primer, I will check and/or use a small precision screwdriver/bent paper clip to help push the next primer fully into station #2 as partially inserted primer will bind and may cause flipped/sideways primer when the primer push rod comes up on the upstroke of the ram lever. If I see any obstruction/debris, I will use compressed/can air or small brush to keep the area clean.

When I refill the primer tray with more primers, I will also reinspect the base of the primer feed attachment for obstruction and clean as necessary.

HEAVY METAL 1
January 14, 2012, 12:39 PM
1) Once in a great while the frame seems to have twisted slightly not allowing the cases to enter the dies squarley. If this happens put a case into each station, loosen the nuts on top of the pillars, run the cases up into the dies-with slight persuasion of the top part of the press. With the ram all the way up (and cases fully into the dies) carefully tighten the pillar nuts and everything will be lined up again.

2) I have found the loaded round exit ramp too short so I augumented it with a tray I made of aluminum bent to like dimensions slightly longer than the ramp on the shellplate so it underruns it some. I drilled a hole at the near end of the piece I made and threaded a short bolt through it (I don't remember what thread) that is compatable with the unused hole at the near left side of the press base and snugged it down. Now I have an extended ramp that I can swivel if I want to.

bds
January 14, 2012, 02:07 PM
Problem: Primer attachment won't feed right and primers keep jamming, preventing the shellplate from rotating.

Solution: This is a preventable problem. Often gouges/burrs form on the primer feed attachment surface that primers slide on from primers that are tilted/flipped by the primer push rod. This is the result of powder particles falling into attachment hole and preventing the rod from falling/retracting all the way down under spring tension when the case sensor is actuated by the case arriving into station #2. Maintaining station #2 area clean is key and minimizing powder leakage from Pro/Auto Disk will help also. You can also fashion a simple cover for the primer feed ramp/trough to keep powder particles out from cut paper but sky's the limit on what material you can use (See post #69 for pictures of cover)

If your primer feed ramp/trough has burrs/gouges that prevent primers from sliding freely into station #2 (on top of primer push rod), you can try to repair by burnishing/polishing the sliding surface. If the damage is too great, you may need to replace the feed attachment with a new unit.

Some basics first. This is how the small/large attachments look like on the inside (springs are not pictured on push rods).
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156610&stc=1&d=1326176272

Detail pictures
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156612&stc=1&d=1326176411



Common problem that's preventable:
If powder particles fall into the primer push rod opening, they may prevent the rod from retracting all the way down when the case sensor is actuated and then the rod will stick above the attachment surface where the primer cups slide. If the rod does not drop down fully, primer being inserted into station #2 could get tilted and catch on the rotating shell plate bottom causing a jam and keep the shell plate from rotating. At this point, forcing the ram lever to cycle (pushing lever back up) will cause the primer to gouge the attachment surface (see white arrow).
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156908&stc=1&d=1326574071


Primer push rod drops/retracts down under spring tension when the case sensor is actuated by the case. The top of the rod cannot be more than flush with the primer feed attachment surface.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156614&stc=1&d=1326176687

The primer should slide on top of rod surface without tilting.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156907&stc=1&d=1326573808


To clean out the powder particles, you'll need to remove the primer feed attachment and clean the bottom of the tube (this requires removal of shell plate). Lee Precision video for installing shell plate with carrier in the press (but you can reverse the steps to remove the shell plate without removing the shell plate carrier) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmCgJfEqQsc&feature=plcp&context=C3490e4eUDOEgsToPDskK7Ikc2TCl785bWD_5-Keq0
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156615&stc=1&d=1326177123
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156616&stc=1&d=1326177123


OK, back to the burnishing/polishing the attachment surface. Attachment on the left is new showing smooth surface and attachments in the center/right show burrs/gouges.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156618&stc=1&d=1326177266

To disassemble the attachment, pull out the pin and carefully pry apart the two halves being careful to not break the tabs (to prevent breaking the tabs, pry on one end slightly, then pry the other end - yeah, ask me how I know :rolleyes::D)
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156899&stc=1&d=1326568955
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156901&stc=1&d=1326569167


White arrows indicate the surfaces I am going to burnish
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156619&stc=1&d=1326177928

Simply using a folded 8x11 white copy paper, apply firm finger pressure and quickly rub back and forth to burnish/polish the surfaces.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156621&stc=1&d=1326177937

Two left pictures are before pictures and two right pictures are new attachment compared to burnished attachment. If your attachment is damaged beyond repair, replace with a new unit.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156620&stc=1&d=1326177928

res7s
January 14, 2012, 02:58 PM
Solution: The 45 acp shell plate accommodates any case with the same head dimensions as the 308 win. ( which is a good portion of common rifle calibers). Remove the spinner rod from the center of the shell plate carrier and presto, now you have a turret press for loading rifle calibers. I am not sure if full length rounds (such as 30 06) will have enough clearance for bullet seating, but short action rounds will work fine. I am loading for my 7x57 with my pro 1000.

I have long wondered if there is anyway to make the Pro-1000 a manual advance press. I have a Dillon RL-300 and feel one reason people have as much trouble with the Pro-1000 as they do is because there is just too much going on at once. After reading this thread I may have buy one. I solved the spent primer problem on my Lee Turret press by turning the ram around and making a small high-walled tray that fit between the columns. I got the idea from looking at a toy dump-truck at Walmart. IDK if the present owner is still using it, but while I had it, it worked well.

bds
January 14, 2012, 04:35 PM
Ran out of attachment space on the previous post. :D

Here's a simple primer feed ramp/trough cover that's made from copy paper. Note that top is low enough to see if you run out of primers and sectioned so the cover follows the contour (But sky's the limit as what else you can make the cover from as long as it keeps the ramp/trough clear of powder particles).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156912&stc=1&d=1326576931

kingmt
January 15, 2012, 12:52 PM
problem: I only have a pro 1000 and want to load for my rifle.

Solution: The 45 acp shell plate accommodates any case with the same head dimensions as the 308 win. ( which is a good portion of common rifle calibers). Remove the spinner rod from the center of the shell plate carrier and presto, now you have a turret press for loading rifle calibers. I am not sure if full length rounds (such as 30 06) will have enough clearance for bullet seating, but short action rounds will work fine. I am loading for my 7x57 with my pro 1000.
Another way is to drill out the turret that holds your rifle dies.

bds
January 17, 2012, 09:37 AM
I made another change to my primer cutout cover from post #47. Although the cut aluminum can cover worked well for small spent primers, when I was doing load development with slower burning powders, often with dirtier lower powder charges, the large spent primers with more black fouling clogged up the hole in the ram.

Problem: This is the old cover that got inserted inside the hole in the ram (red arrows). Because the cover was inserted inside the hole, it reduced the inside diameter of the hole and was prone to clogging large primers and required frequent cover removal/cleaning.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157060&stc=1&d=1326810727

Solution: Corners of the cover were cut and I also trimmed the bottom of cover - Dimensions now 1.5" x 0.75".
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157061&stc=1&d=1326810727
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157062&stc=1&d=1326810847

Cover is now inserted outside of the hole in the ram cutout (green arrows) so even dirty black fouled large primers won't clog the hole. Also note wider opening at the bottom of cover.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157063&stc=1&d=1326810847

Continued on next post.

bds
January 17, 2012, 09:47 AM
Continued from Post #71.

When inserting the cover, slowly lower the ram to be sure the bottom of the cover clears the base of the press (blue arrows).
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157064&stc=1&d=1326811279

With the cover outside of the hole, I am catching 100% of pesky spent primers without having to clear the ram hole. They all continue to fall into the collection hole of the press base. :D

Tilos
January 21, 2012, 08:21 PM
I bought a new Pro Auto-Disc today and took it apart to remove the plastic and pot metal mold flash and check the internals for burrs, etc.

I found a protentional problem in that the drop tube was NOT completely seated into the body of the measure:eek:.

I was able to press the body over the drop tube until it seated against the shoulder in the measure body.

Had I used it as it was, I think powder would have piled up in the gap and or the timing of the powder drop/flaring operation would have been affected.

280shooter
January 22, 2012, 01:06 AM
I dont use my press anymore... but one problem I had was short stroking the ram. and that seemed to mess up the timing..and just messed everything up//
My fault im sure. I used it for 44 mag. I sold the gun. so its sits aprt in boxes.. Im thinking of buying another for 223,,,

bds
January 22, 2012, 09:15 AM
Tilos, nice catch. I checked all of my Pro Auto Disks and the drop tubes are all tightly pressed in (white arrow).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157433&stc=1&d=1327241614

oldfarts
January 22, 2012, 12:31 PM
I am having the same problem with the ram pulling out of the carrier after resizing and depriming. What holds the ram in from the factory. Is there a set screw or something else. I am using carbide dies, I clean my brass, and Im loading 45 acp, Press has only loaded 200 rounds before ram pulled free. Any info please

bds
January 22, 2012, 12:56 PM
problem with the ram pulling out of the carrier after resizing and depriming. What holds the ram in from the factory. Is there a set screw or something else.
There is a hex head bolt on the right lower part of the shell plate carrier (blue arrow). Loosen the bolt and push the shell plate carrier down on the ram then tighten the bolt with an Allen wrench. (Be sure the shell plate carrier is pushed all the way down on the ram or you will crack the carrier body around the bolt when you tighten the bolt).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157454&stc=1&d=1327254980

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=157453&stc=1&d=1327254954

oldfarts
January 22, 2012, 01:45 PM
Yes, I saw that after I posted, Wow, Im sure not all here this morning. LOL Thanks

hntr59
January 23, 2012, 04:40 PM
I have added a light so I can check the powder in the cases; I saw the idea on another forum and constructed a 2-3.6v led light system to run off a 9v battery.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj117/pojv/lee3.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj117/pojv/lee1.jpg

hntr59
January 23, 2012, 04:43 PM
If anyone does not have the instructions to change out the shell plate with out removing the carrier please let me know and I will send them to you.
Phil

TRP
June 30, 2012, 10:47 AM
Nice Thread!

Back in the 80's I bought my first 1000 and the colum where the primer slide pin hits the groove had only one groove. Being a Machinist getting to a lathe was no problem and I added 4 more, for a total of five and never had any more problems with primer drop.
Looks like the new 1000 has three but if you have any problems 5 would not hurt anything.

tightgroup tiger
June 30, 2012, 11:25 AM
I don't fight with the chain anymore. I put a spot of locktight on the screw that holds the linkage arm on the powder measure and loosened the screw to make it run free and put a jumbo paper clip and lead weight on in place of the return chain.

I threw the return chain in the trash. This simple weight just works to well.

With the screw loosened to the proper amount the measure will return down by gravity alone but the lead weight guarentees it.

This allows me to simply pull out the entire turret with out disturbing the powder measure and dump my powder back into the bottle, then replace the entire turret in the press and cleanup is done.

This powder measure works better for me like this than it has ever worked.

bds
June 30, 2012, 11:44 AM
tightgroup tiger, that is neat! :D

I gotta try that now.

tightgroup tiger
June 30, 2012, 12:27 PM
The only thing you have to watch when dumping out your powder is that the disc doesn't come out of the measure when you start dumping.

Just wrap you hand around the disc to hold it in when you dump and you won't spill any.

sellersm
June 30, 2012, 02:50 PM
+1 to tightgroup tiger! That's a great idea.

bbuddtec
June 30, 2012, 04:45 PM
What a great thread, thanks bds and all of you for sharing, I'm running .45auto and look forward to going through all these responses!

bds
September 12, 2012, 12:17 AM
Problem:
Very difficult to pull a case out of the sequence.


Solution:
If you raise the shell plate about half way up, it will unlock the shell plate and you will be able to rotate the shell plate freely.

bds
September 12, 2012, 12:37 AM
Problem:
Auto indexing is too abrupt and not smooth.


Solution:
Put a drop of oil on finger tip and lightly oil the center hex rod surface then cycle the shell plate carrier several times until the auto index becomes smooth. After several hundred cycles, I apply more oil as needed.

Also, adjust the shell plate timing so the shell plate doesn't "over click". Adjust the timing so the shell plate clicks into station just before the shell plate carrier reaches the press base.

WSSM
September 26, 2012, 11:01 PM
Problem: How do I replace the ratchet gear? The index adjustment screw has no effect and when I took things apart the gear is stripped where the screw contacts it.

bds
September 26, 2012, 11:32 PM
Problem: How do I replace the ratchet gear? The index adjustment screw has no effect and when I took things apart the gear is stripped where the screw contacts it.
Welcome to THR. Here's how you replace the nylon ratchet gears:


Pull the center hex index rod out

Unscrew the two phillips head screws (blue arrows) and remove cover
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=172528&stc=1&d=1348716322

Remove the nylon ratchet gears but not the phillips head bolt
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=172536&stc=1&d=1348716903

Drop in new ratchet gears making sure the gear teeth mesh with the threads on the phillips head bolt
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=172532&stc=1&d=1348716388

Replace cover and tighten the two screws
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=172533&stc=1&d=1348716388

Be sure to clean the hex index rod and place a drop of oil on your finger tip and spread it around the rod (I use any gun oil on the bench or any weight motor oil). Insert the rod from the bottom of shell plate carrier (with the spiral portion at the bottom).

Reinstall the shell plate carrier on top of the ram making sure the shell plate carrier is pushed all the way down or you'll crack the shell plate carrier when you tighten the hex bolt. Before you tighten the hex bolt, ensure that the pin attached to the primer attachment is making contact with the frame rod to shake the primer tray as the pin clicks on the notches - this clicking/shaking action helps feed the primers into station #2 under the case.

More than likely, the shell plate timing will need to be adjusted. Cycle the ram lever and bring the shell plate carrier to the bottom. If the shell plate does not click into station, use a phillips screwdriver and turn the phillips head bolt clock-wise until it does. Cycle the ram lever several times to ensure the shell plate clicks into station as the shell plate carrier approaches the bottom.


Before you begin your reloading session, cycle the ram lever to see if the shell plate carrier slides up and down smoothly and shell plate indexes properly. If not, apply a drop of oil on the center index rod with your finger tip and cycle the ram lever until it does and check the shell plate timing. Whenever the indexing operation becomes less smooth, apply some more oil on the hex rod until it does (wipe off excess oil). Properly lubing the hex index rod will also extend the life of the center nylon ratchet gear - for me, they easily last 20,000-40,000+ cycles.

Oldgoat03
September 27, 2012, 12:04 AM
I just use the return spring as is came assembled for a Classic Turret and it works great. Just be sure to carefully check each charge visually.

WSSM
September 27, 2012, 02:35 PM
Thanks! My old gear would not turn with the bolt for index adjustment. I hope the replacement will drop in without force because the old one certainly wouldn't. Maybe I'm missing a bigger issue. We'll see.

bds
September 27, 2012, 03:32 PM
When you install the new gears, remove the phillips head bolt, check the metal surfaces for any burrs, apply a little oil on contact surfaces then spin the large gear to ensure smooth operation. Wipe off excess oil.

drop the phillips head bolt into place ensuring mating of gear teeth with bolt threads.

Install the cover and use a phillips screwdriver to turn the bolt clockwise - you should be able to see the nylon gear turning. If not, remove cover and inspect.

bds
January 27, 2013, 10:40 PM
Problem: Finished rounds slide off the shellplate by the ejection wire but lay down in the chute instead off falling off requiring a sweep with a finger to clear the rounds.

Solution: Bend the ejection wire into the shape shown below - the key is bending the wire to push out the case earlier so the finished rounds tip over/down the chute instead of sliding off the shellplate near the top to be hung up on the chute. The wire shape works well with 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP cases - they all tip over and fall down the chute each and everytime now.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=178560&stc=1&d=1359348685

evan price
January 28, 2013, 06:18 AM
Problem: The primers bridge in the primer tray and fail to replenish the primer chute.

Solution: My kids have these little things called "Nano Hex-bugs" which are basically little toothbrush-looking things with silicone legs and a watch battery and a tiny vibrating motor. I stuck one of them to the bottom of the primer tray with some tape and it never has fed better!

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTbqtc5w78GmoQhxn0birlUZ0_KhYUKYZhP1zcvhBqpJBorpE9G

Also works great on the lid of my Auto-Disk powder measure with big flake powders.

stavman11
January 28, 2013, 01:23 PM
Great ideas and Mod's Guys...

From Day one the Only Issue I had was just the Powder Spring... so I did something else. i used a small Bungee Cord, get em at any home supply store or wally world....

Attached it to bar, Then Bolt at my bench... works perfect every time...

And BDS... Gunna do that Wire bend for my .223 cases and see if that help... great idea and Pic's bud

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/stavman11/photobucket-1005-1359397043379.jpg

kingmt
January 28, 2013, 03:57 PM
I would suggest against the bungee. It takes away the safety feature of the chain. What problem was you having with the chain. I never used the spring that goes on the chain that it came with because I thought it looked to beefy so I used one from a ink pen.

Edit:
I don't want to drag this thread out on the same subject so this is to the never post. If your flare is sticking in the case enough to pull the measure all the way down your flaring to much. Just open the mouth enough to start the bullet.

tightgroup tiger
January 28, 2013, 04:27 PM
I don't understand the point of the chain anyways, the friction on the flaring die inside the powder measure pulls the lever down on the powder measure the whole way before it pulls out of the case anyways. If it doesn't the screw on the powder measure is to tight anyways.

But!, I recently put an adjustable powder bar in mine and it didn't work so well. To tight. I cut a Hoppes cleaning patch up which mic'd at .0010" and put it between the powder measure and it's base. That loosened it up enough to work freely again. I can't see any daylight between the flexible wiper and the adjustable powder bar and it doesn't leak. Problem solved. I never take my powder measure off anyways, I pull the whole turret to dump the powder out, so shimming up the powder measure doesn't cause any problems for me.

Now I don't use stick powder in mine so I don't know how that would work and can't comment on it. My pro1000 is 38/357.

My supervisor at work had a pro1000 given to him, he wasn't very thrilled, but he set his up like I told him to and after I taught him how to time it correctly, he really likes it. He said it just runs every time he needs it to and give him no problems. He was going to buy a LNL-AP like mine but I think he changed his mind now.

bds
January 29, 2013, 09:26 AM
I don't understand the point of the chain anyways
I think it was meant to "break away" as a safety feature if the hopper nuts were tightened too much and the sliding disk edge got caught on the wiper at the bottom of the hopper. If you damage the replaceable $1 wiper (Part # AD3396 (http://leeprecision.com/wiper.html)), your powder drops may not be consistent. BTW, when was the last time you inspected/cleaned the wiper? Can't remember? Unscrew the two hopper nuts and pop out the wiper to inspect and clean - if you don't see any damage/wear, pop it back in (you can flip it to extend the life before replacement). ;)

That's why it comes with a spring (Part # AD2749 (http://leeprecision.com/5-8-free-ht-spring.html)) you are supposed to use with the chain (see below picture on the left). If you use the Pro Auto Disk without the spring, you are likely to break the chain. You could use the spring from a retractable pen as a quick fix, but the spring tension is not as strong as the Auto Disk spring.

If you don't want to fuss with the chain, you could use the return lever/spring setup used in the Classic Turret Press. Picture below on the left shows the typical chain/spring/lever used in the Pro 1000 and on the right shows the lever/spring used in the turret press. If you want to switch over, you'll need the $2 lever (Part # AD2309 (http://leeprecision.com/powder-mea-levr-f.html)) and the $0.50 spring (Part # AD2296 (http://leeprecision.com/spring.html)).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=178674&stc=1&d=1359469552

kingmt
January 29, 2013, 11:53 AM
The spring should be on the bottom. The balls can get caught on the leaver like that.

Using the pen spring at Max travel I have the spring fully compressed.

bds
January 29, 2013, 09:20 PM
Problem: Primer attachment feeds primers regardless whether there is a case in station #2, two primers are found on top of the primer push rod, and/or extra primers are found at the base of station #2.

Solution: Case sensor spring is not installed properly and applying pressure on the primer push rod which keeps the rod from rising up to prevent extra primers from sliding into station #2. The bent part of the spring needs to go around the base the rod moves up and down in. Also, be sure the case sensor (black plastic part with a round end) is installed correctly and moves freely.

Picture on the left shows incorrectly installed case sensor spring which will hold the rod down, allowing extra primers to slide into station #2. Picture on the right shows correctly installed spring which allows the rod to stay up when there is no case present in station #2 and block primers from sliding into station #2.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=178715&stc=1&d=1359512424

Improper shellplate timing, dirty/rough/damaged primer attachment surface (see post #67 (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7877744#post7877744)), debri in the primer rod hole, incorrectly installed case sensor spring, and/or cycling the shellplate too fast to allow a primer to slide into station #2 (remember, it is based on gravity) probably account for most of frustration Pro 1000 users experience. As illustrated, they are relatively easy to resolve and will get you back to less troublesome reloading.

gsc3zny
June 24, 2013, 05:30 AM
I want to get rid of my Lee Pro 1000 and all accessories, but I cannot post on the for sale section. How do I go about trying to sell it?

bds
June 24, 2013, 09:15 AM
Welcome to THR.

I believe there is a specific number of posts you need to make before you are allowed to post in the Trading Post section but I am not sure what that number is.

I PMed a moderator to see when you can post.

Walkalong
June 24, 2013, 09:55 AM
Yes, there is a minimum number of posts. Continue to participate here at THR and it won't be long.

Sorry you are having trouble with the press. They do have a rep for being a little finicky, but most folks get them running well enough to suit them. :)

gsc3zny
June 24, 2013, 12:04 PM
I just cant seem to get it. I'm tired of spending time doing this, that and the other thing to make everything work together

kostyanj
June 24, 2013, 12:35 PM
I just cant seem to get it. I'm tired of spending time doing this, that and the other thing to make everything work together

No press works perfectly 100% of the time. I've gotten awesome production on my lee 1000 in the past that would rival what I've done on my Hornady or Dillon.

bds
June 24, 2013, 02:38 PM
Well, the Pro 1000 certainly is not for everyone and that's why this support thread exists. The solutions posted on this thread address most common problems Pro 1000 owners will face so they can operate their presses more reliably.

If you decided the Pro 1000 is not for you, I think there are many who would gladly pick up your press for the right price.

mcgiiver
July 31, 2013, 09:11 AM
Problem: Primers getting stuck and not dropping down.
Solution: Another solution is to attach cable ties ( small size) to the grooves in the column where the shaker pin rides. So rather than having the shaker pin ride in a shallower groove, it now has to jump over the cable ties, making the primer tray shake more aggressively.

mcgiiver
July 31, 2013, 09:51 AM
Problem: Hard effort in sizing die.
Solution: When I tumble my brass, or not, prior to using the brass, I wash them in water and rinse them. My last rinse is in a soapy water, hand soap, and not rinsed off. This leaves a very thin film of soap on the cases after drying, almost imperceptible. This is just enough to make sizing force less without fouling powder charges.

Problem: Primers tipping in feed ramp.
Solution: Apply a slight, hear it, slight, chamfer, more correctly, radius to the top edge of the primer seating pin and polish it.

44vaquero
August 1, 2013, 07:26 PM
@BDS, The curved ejector pin is a excellent mod. Those big .44 Magnum shells kept jamming on my Lee Automator. Not any more!

I also liked your funnel mod for primer collection, very clever.

This is a great thread for Pro 1000 users.

stavman11
August 31, 2013, 03:31 PM
i have recently Changed my way of doing .223 with my Lee pro 1000

I used to use it as basicaly a turret press.... 1 rd from primer-powder-bullet done... De-prime and size was a totaly seperate step.

I really have never had any issues with the primer system but with .223 cases they can cause undo issues not related to the Lee pro system

using the Case feeder in my previous system just didnt work... to much ta focus on

So I decided to try hand Priming my cases... got an inexpensive Lee hand Primer for $17.
So Now Ill sit at watch Sports/TV hand Prime like 100 cases in a short amount of time... Then I will load my case feeder on the lee pro..... and bust out .223 rds as fast as i can set a Bullet on the case... Nothing to worry about besides the occasional Case no setting correctly in the 1st stage....

This has increased my speed a lot... and increased my loading accuracy since I am only focused on Powder and Bullet.....

anyways... thought i'd pass it along....

Stav

flynlr
September 1, 2013, 10:13 PM
have recently Changed my way of doing .223 with my Lee pro 1000

I used to use it as basicaly a turret press.... 1 rd from primer-powder-bullet done... De-prime and size was a totaly seperate step.

I really have never had any issues with the primer system but with .223 cases they can cause undo issues not related to the Lee pro system

using the Case feeder in my previous system just didnt work... to much ta focus on

So I decided to try hand Priming my cases... got an inexpensive Lee hand Primer for $17.
So Now Ill sit at watch Sports/TV hand Prime like 100 cases in a short amount of time... Then I will load my case feeder on the lee pro..... and bust out .223 rds as fast as i can set a Bullet on the case... Nothing to worry about besides the occasional Case no setting correctly in the 1st stage....

This has increased my speed a lot... and increased my loading accuracy since I am only focused on Powder and Bullet.....

anyways... thought i'd pass it along....

Stav

exactly how i have loaded 223 on the 1000 for years.

waverace
September 6, 2013, 03:13 PM
PROBLEM..I am having a problem with the hex drive nut wearing out and causing a mis-indexing situation , this can happen in as little as 200 rounds , the drive seems a little tight and spongy as it goes to turn the shell-plate which can make the action rod slip through the hex nut rounding it out rather than turning the shell-plate , the solution below is only a partial solution so any other ideas would be appreciated.

SOLUTION..physically blow loose powder flakes off the shell plate between cycles so that powder cannot fall into mechanism and cause jams also pay attention to how the plate is rotating and "feather" the handle so that it rotates fully . I also tried on one shell plate to shorten or lighten the ball detente spring so that it had less pressure against the shell plate , this did help a little a lighter spring might work better.

bds
September 6, 2013, 03:35 PM
PROBLEM..I am having a problem with the hex drive nut wearing out and causing a mis-indexing situation, this can happen in as little as 200 rounds , the drive seems a little tight and spongy as it goes to turn the shell-plate which can make the action rod slip through the hex nut rounding it out rather than turning the shell-plate

the solution below is only a partial solution so any other ideas would be appreciated.
SOLUTION: The center hex "action rod" needs to be lubricated for smooth indexing of the shell plate. If run dry, premature wear of nylon hex ratchet will occur which will result in rough/inconsistent indexing and a very frustrated user. :D

Before each reloading session, lubricate the rod with a drop of oil on your finger tip (I use Breakfree CLP or any weight motor oil) and reapply another drop of oil during the reloading session if the indexing stops being smooth.

I lower the shell plate carrier and rub the drop of oil on the rod with my finger tip and raise the shell plate carrier and rub the remaining drop of oil on the bottom part of the rod below the carrier then cycle the handle several times until the indexing becomes smooth and check the shell plate timing.

For me, with proper lubrication of the action rod, the nylon hex ratchet doesn't need replacement for 15,000 - 30,000+ cycles.

stavman11
September 6, 2013, 03:53 PM
BDS

I have 3 Lee pro Systems

my 9mm system see TIGHT... and my .357 not as Tight but tight.... my .223 is smooth as butter

I have adjusted the Handle/Cam nut down there but still seems a bit tight

any ideas???

bds
September 6, 2013, 03:58 PM
stavman11, by "tight" do you mean the indexing of the shell plate is not smooth or the ram cycling is tight?

To check, remove the shell plate carrier and cycle the ram/lever. If ram/lever cycles smooth, the "tightness" is in the shell plate carrier. When you reinstall the shell plate carrier back on the ram, be sure that no part of carrier rubs/rides on the left column other than the pin from the primer attachment riding the right column.

After re-installation, lubricate the rod as I posted above and cycle the handle until smooth. If the indexing is still tight, I would take apart the shell plate carrier and inspect the nylon hex ratchet and replace as necessary if worn.

stavman11
September 6, 2013, 04:05 PM
Indexing

I loosend the Nut on the Handle... and helped some.... but on mid stroke, about half way up and down it just seems tight... and squeeks... cant figure out where it is Binding/tight at

Besides taking it apart and such... i have lubed everything

stavman11
September 6, 2013, 04:10 PM
Ill test it out


Figured its about time ta clean it anyways....

I just played with it a Bit... its for sure in the Plate Carrier area..... something is binding/rubbing


Time for a CLEANING...

Thanks again, as always, for yer help


Stav

bds
September 6, 2013, 04:14 PM
Sounds like the nylon hex ratchet is binding on the spiral part of the hex action rod.

I would inspect the hex ratchet and if worn/rounded, replace and lubricate before using it (Lee includes spare hex ratchets with each Pro 1000 kit so you should have several).

and squeeks... cant figure out where it is Binding/tight at
Since the primer attachment pin was meant to ride the right column and "click" along the grooves, even properly adjusted and lubed shell plate carrier will make some rubbing/squeaking/clicking sound. As long as the indexing is smooth and the primers are feeding reliably, this is normal. You could try cleaning these parts and lightly oiling the surface to see if the sound quiets down.

stavman11
September 6, 2013, 04:53 PM
i think its the Rachet/Shell plate....

Ill try and do it this weekend... and report Back.....


what i meant by the Nut on the Handle.... is the NUT that Tightens/loosens the Cam at the Bottom...... too tight and it really binds.... to loose and its sloppy as a $10...ummmm..... whel... its Sloppy

:-)

bds
September 6, 2013, 07:05 PM
what i meant by the Nut on the Handle.... is the NUT that Tightens/loosens the Cam at the Bottom...... too tight and it really binds.... to loose and its sloppy as a $10...ummmm..... whel... its Sloppy
I am still not sure which nut you are talking about as the nut that holds the ram lever handle in place should be simply "tight".

Could you post a picture?

johnb1226
November 22, 2013, 11:13 AM
I recently bought a Pro 1000 for the purpose of loading 45 ACP. A friend of mine who had never loaded before had bought a Lee load master to reload 40 S&W and he was very happy with his new purchase and I thought he had bought a 1000. I now have just found out that you can buy a kit to convert the 1000 to a four head unit and was thinking of doing so. The main reason I want the fourth is being able to the finish off the cartridge with the crimping die. Any advise yea or nay would be greatly appreciated.

stavman11
November 22, 2013, 11:20 AM
I dont do 45acp but do .357

the crimp on the standard 3 die set seems ta work real well for me....

I have never looked at the Conversion to 4 stages... hmmmm Kinda currrious now Myself

Springfield0612
November 22, 2013, 01:14 PM
I recently bought a Pro 1000 for the purpose of loading 45 ACP. A friend of mine who had never loaded before had bought a Lee load master to reload 40 S&W and he was very happy with his new purchase and I thought he had bought a 1000. I now have just found out that you can buy a kit to convert the 1000 to a four head unit and was thinking of doing so. The main reason I want the fourth is being able to the finish off the cartridge with the crimping die. Any advise yea or nay would be greatly appreciated.

What necesitates the need to use the FCD over the seating and crimp die? I loads about 1K .45 ACP and 9mm a month on my Lee Pro 1000 and hundreds of other calibers. The only time I use the FCD is to remove the belling on my rifle rounds to add neck tension to the bullets. I've never had a setback issue or anything else related to not using the FCD.

If you want to maintain the 3 station setup and use the FCD I would do the following:

1: I have a turret setup with Misc dies. Meaning if I have a spare die that I don't use all the time it goes into this turret. So when I get new to me range brass and I want to wet tumble with SS pins and clean out the primer pockets I put on my MISC turret with the decaping resizing die then back out the other misc dies to disable them. I load the case collator and run the press like a mad man to deprime/resize brass for cleaning.

2: Now that you have deprimed and cleaned your brass you have a free station open on your pro 1000 for your FCD. The issue is that to use the return chain for the auto disk on station 2 you have to utilize the shell plate carrier. You can get a kit to convert your pro disk for use as on a SS press or a turret press that has the auto return spring if it didn't come with the parts allready.

http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-ad2296-auto-disk-return-spring?filter_name=AD2296

http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-ad2309-auto-disk-return-lever?filter_name=ad2309

You can now move powder and flare to station one. But you will have to prime off press or just utilize the Pro 1000 in the same manner as you did for the depriming. Just back the dies out and use the press to mass prime batches of brass before you add the powder.

3: Now station two is bullet seat. Ensure you can see the powder in the case before seating your bullet

4: FCD. Crimp to your hearts content.

Unfortunately the conversion from 3 hole to 4 hole is not true in this case. You will utilize the base of your Pro 1000, the ram, and the handle and linkage. Everything above that gets changed, the upright columns, the turret head, etc. I also am sure that you will not have the auto indexing feature becasue the ram on the Turret press is specific to allow the auto indexing clamp to stay in place on the ram. Other than that you are converting it to the Lee Turret press which is not a progressive press.

http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-4-hole-turret-press-w-auto-index?filter_name=90932

Your other option is to get a Single stage press and use the FCD in the SS press to finish off your loads and leave the pro1000 the way it is, or........

If you really need and cannot live without the fourth hole and you plan on doing any rifle reloading in the future for .30 cal rounds I would reccomend you get the Lee Classic Cast Turett press instead of converting the pro 1000 to the 4 hole turret press. The classic cast turret has a bigger opening for longer .30 cal rounds. The normal 4 hole turret that you could convert your pro 1000 from is too short for most .30 cal rounds but will work for .223 and similar cartridges.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/785993/lee-4-hole-turret-press-with-auto-index-deluxe-kit

My recomendation? Don't worry about the Lee FCD, it's not a necesity to reload reliable safe ammo. I don't use one in any of my auto loader rounds for .32 ACP, .380 ACP, 9mm (pistol and carbine rifle), .45 ACP (two pistols). Just make sure that when you seat and crimp the case has enough tension not to allow bullet set back and your fine.

GOOD LUCK!!!

cfullgraf
November 22, 2013, 02:05 PM
The main reason I want the fourth is being able to the finish off the cartridge with the crimping die. Any advise yea or nay would be greatly appreciated.

Many decades ago when I got into reloading, many auto pistol seater dies had roll crimps machine in them. My late seventies vintage 45 ACP seater die is one of these. Taper crimps in in the seater dies were not as common as they were today.

It was difficult to get the right amount of crimp on the auto pistol case so that headspace on the mouth without over crimping and rolling the case mouth into the bullet.

Separate taper crimp dies were available. The Lee FCD probably had not even been thought of at that time.

I got into the habit of crimping in a separate step and found it was easier to set set the seater die from the crimp die. Up until a couple years ago when I got a progressive, I still roll crimped revolver rounds in the seater die. With the progressive, crimping in a separate step is no big deal if you have the extra position, which I do.

But, folks have seated and crimped in the same step for at least a century so it certainly is a way to get good ammunition.

As a side note, with all the crimp dies that I have, not one is a Lee FCD.

johnb1226
November 23, 2013, 09:40 AM
Thank you all for your responses. I bought the Lee 1000 sight unseen and was told it looked like it was brand new and it indeed does. When I received it, it was in a box and the head wasn't on it and I didn't realize there were only three holes in the head. Never the less, it was bought worth the money and I can use it as a dedicated press for 45 ACP using it with either 3 or 4 holes. I do prime all my cartridges using a RCBS universal hand primer and prefer priming in that manner. I also do have 2 SS presses and a 6 hole turret press and have exclusively used RCBS in the past. I do have a Lee crimping die for 45 ACP and find it easier using it to crimp with and would like to continue using it. My introduction to reloading was back in 1963 using a plastic hammer and a Lee die loading 243 and soon there after a Mec loader for shotgun shells and I was hooked.

I would still be most interested to hear how anyone who has done the 3 to 4 head conversion either liked or disliked it. I don't really want to reinvent the wheel, I just want to see if I can make it a little rounder.

John

Springfield0612
November 23, 2013, 04:12 PM
You cannot convert it as a progressive from 3 to 4 hole. You convert it from a 3 hole progressive to a 4 hole turret press.

fralic76
December 26, 2013, 08:43 PM
You cannot convert it as a progressive from 3 to 4 hole. You convert it from a 3 hole progressive to a 4 hole turret press.


What is needed to do that? I'm looking at buying a 4 hole turret in 2014.

jfh
December 26, 2013, 08:51 PM
Call--or e-mail--Lee for the specific parts list.

However, given my experience with having converted the older Turret (the design similar to the Pro 1000, and with which you would functionally end up), I would recommend you simply straightaway purchase one of the new Classic Cast 4-hole turrets.

They are superior designs in many ways, and then you would have the benefit of having access to both your Pro 1000 and a 4-hole Turret.

Jim H.

bds
June 13, 2014, 10:02 PM
OK, since I did some more powder drop tests to verify powder drop weight consistency, I'll add to this thread from the "Working DIY Micro Auto Disk" thread (more in-depth discussion of modification process in the link) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=741988

Problem: I need smaller powder charges than what the smallest Auto Disk hole (.30) will drop.

Solution: Modify the disk hole by drilling and using a screw.

Details of mod - I used a Phillips head brass screw (#10-32 x 1/2") and a drill bit to make the hole (Drilling a smaller pilot hole will help). As discussed in the DIY thread, I used a longer screw (1.5") chucked in a drill to reshape and polish the tip to reduce powder bridging but if you are using Bullseye/W231/HP-38, I found this is not necessary (reshaping was done for Titegroup which has rougher textured surface and caused powder bridging). Using the screw size indicated above, I got following consistent powder drops verified on my Ohaus 10-10:

Bullseye down to 1.5 gr
W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr
Titegroup down to 2.8 gr and 2.5 with tip modification


Brass screws used (make sure the head is smaller than the thickness of the disk or use a set screw to clear the bottom of hopper)

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194118&stc=1&d=1390774547

.30 disk hole drilled and tapped with brass screw

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194119&stc=1&d=1390774547

Screw adjustment shown at 3.0 gr W231/HP-38 setting

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194120&stc=1&d=1390774563

Smaller screw head than the thickness of the disk allows for clearance during cycling (can also use set screw with no head)

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194121&stc=1&d=1390774563

Before/after comparison pictures of longer (1.5") brass screw chucked in the drill to reshape/polish the tip

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199105&stc=1&d=1401606899

Comparison picture showing cone, dome shaped tips next to unmodified brass screw (modification of tip was to better meter Titegroup down to 2.5 gr and not necessary if using Bullseye/W231/HP-38)

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199141&stc=1&d=1401665995

Comparison picture showing screw tips inside the .30 Auto Disk hole

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199142&stc=1&d=1401665995

stavman11
June 14, 2014, 11:15 AM
As always... great Job bds.... Looks sweet

Ill for sure do This next Time I need to adjust Just a Bit more

Thanks


Stav

maxxhavoc
June 14, 2014, 08:31 PM
Problem: Adjustable charge bar throws inconsistent charges, light (50% or so) charges, or completely empty charges.

Solution: Due to its design, the charge bar will not throw small charges, or even medium charges accurately - especially with flake powders. Simply build up the front area of the charge bar with epoxy and it will throw charges as consistent as the auto-disk. I just put painters tape on the bottom of the bar, put JB weld in the cavity, and painters taped the other side. Sandwiched the cavity with popsicle sticks and put it in the vise to cure. The tape came right off, and only minor trimming was necessary. Note that this will make the cc measurements incorrect, you will need to figure out the charge volume by trial and error.

http://www.fasthavoc.net/linkedimage/Lee/chargebar.jpg

I didn't invent this fix, but it took some looking around to find it. It works very well. Also, make sure your hopper is on correctly - it can be reversed, which causes inconsistency. With the hopper empty, and the chain in the "down" position, look through the charging hole, it should line up with the cavity. If you do this with an unmodified adjustable charge bar, you will see the problem with the design.

I found this fix here: http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=582

Potatohead
June 14, 2014, 09:20 PM
Will that mod work with the Classic Turret?
Im not sure I totally understand why that would work...maybe if I knew the problem with the design I would understand better. The charging hole's shape doesnt match the charge bar's?

I just got a lot of 380 cases so Im quite interested in throwing some smaller charges. Had to dip 80 rds worth of Zip by hand today because I couldnt get it to throw what I needed.


EDIT: I understand now, after reading site linked above.

Potatohead
June 15, 2014, 06:15 PM
I went to home depot and loaded up on some supplies..trying Maxxhavoc's mod. Wish me luck, Im not always the handiest of fellas! Will update.


Im trying the easiest option first, I think it has about a snowballs chance in hell of working properly. This was just felt with adhesive on the back, like you stick to the bottom of your dining room chairs to keep the floor from getting scratched. Pretty sure powder will stick all into it and it wont work very consistently...only took about 5 seconds though.

Some people have used epoxy putty, and I will use that if this doesnt work..which means I will probably be using the epoxy putty in a sec:)

Well, the premise of that definitely worked. Im going to use the epoxy though because I dont think the felt will hold up long term and there was a throw here and there that wasn't consistent. I have no doubt this mod will work though, I was throwing 2.9 gr 5 and 6 times in a row, with a powder that I couldnt even get to register on the scale yesterday... Thanks for the tip Maxxhavoc.

bds
June 15, 2014, 07:33 PM
FYI, make your boundries fairly stable/firm as once epoxy/JB Weld hardens, it is very hard to work with. Some have used Bondo/body filler with some sucess as it is easier to shape/sand to reshape the chamber after it hardens.

I think the key is getting the finished slide surface as smooth and flat as possible for the polymer wiper at the bottom of the hopper to make good sliding seal with. If the finished surface is rough, you may experience premature wear of the wiper.

maxxhavoc
June 15, 2014, 08:04 PM
Good point. I think I might have to sand and smooth with spot putty or Bondo.. Mine has a little masking-tape texture.

bds
June 15, 2014, 08:25 PM
Before you sand, I would use masking tape over the other surfaces to protect from the sanding.

If you need to smooth/polish the adjustable chargebar surface, I found burnishing with plain copy paper works quite well. Fold a clean copy paper several times (to protect the chargebar from surface uneveness), lay on flat surface, grip the charge bar well and rub/slide quickly on the paper surface with slight pressure.

The friction from the paper will apply a smoothed surface to almost polished finish.


BTW, I also use folded copy paper to burnish/polish damaged primer feed attachment surface to allow primers to slide easier again (scroll down to last 2 pictures) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7877744#post7877744

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156621&stc=1&d=1326177937

Picture on the left shows damaged attachment surface and picture on the right shows new attachment surface next to repaired/burnished surface (if the attachment surface cannot be repaired by burnishing, I replace the attachment).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=156620&stc=1&d=1326177928

Potatohead
June 16, 2014, 01:17 PM
It would be nice if Lee wood just machine a new part, or aka fix the design flaw. And I dont think design flaw is to strong a statement here.

But you guys got me scared talking about sanding stuff and damaging wipers!

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