I received my stock from Richard's Microfit yesterday. I took lots of pictures before I did anything to it. I want to document the whole process with pictures and words and maybe find a free web hosting site, so that I can do sort of a "How To" website on stock shaping, finer points of inletting and bedding the action, and finishing the completed stock, from a beginners point of view. This is the first stock that I will be finishing, so, what better time to write about a beginner's perspective than now, right?
I would like some help along the way, but I don't have questions yet about finishing. I would like to keep this thread open so I can come and ask questions etc, and as sort of a progress report to keep you all informed on how it's coming. I will post some pictures as I go as well.
I do have some questions right now, but not so much about rifles or refinishing, so I will start off by listing them below.
1) Does anyone know of such a free hosting site?
2) Has this been done to death, so much, that it would be a waste of my time to do it again?
3) If so, can you give me addresses of some examples of sites that have done this?
I am sure I will have questions coming up, but for now I am just doing A LOT of sanding and shaping. I worked for about 4 hours last night, sanding until my hand was having so many "Charlie Horses" that I couldn't hold the sanding block any longer. So I gave up and went to bed! :what:
I appreciate your help and any advice you can give me.
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February 26, 2010, 06:33 PM
Here's a good thread for you. No clue on your questions though. :(
Google does free hosting, but you'll have to put up with their ads.
February 26, 2010, 08:40 PM
I have used PHOTOBUCKET.com for about 18 mths-- 2 years with no issues. Its easy, fast, and FREE, although you can upgrade if you want.
PS: post pics as soon as you can about the Richards stock!
February 27, 2010, 01:02 AM
I bought a 96% inletted stock from Richard's, and there was much more than 4% for the finish inletting. I was happy with the stock and will buy from them again, but it wasn't close to 96% inletted. Fit the action and barrel first before you start shaping and sanding.
February 27, 2010, 02:51 PM
Thanks for the advice! My action nearly fits, I am only going to need to relieve a very small amount to get it in completely. It is a very tight fit, but it is very close.
Why do you say to do that work first? I was going to save it for last, and do that just before applying the finish.
Thanks for that link. Good info there. I will keep it in mind.
Thanks. I will check it out. I just want to do more than one page and have the possibility to expand it in the future. Can you do it with Google?
I will get some of the pics posted soon. I have just been really busy sanding and etc... But I will try to do it either tonight or tomorrow.
February 28, 2010, 12:58 AM
Fit the action and shoot it. If the recoil lug/action need to be bedded, then you can do it without damaging the finish. And after shooting it, you might decide you need to make other changes to the shape.
February 28, 2010, 03:15 AM
Makes sense. Thanks! I will start working on the action tomorrow then. I will probably have it done before noon and I can go shooting in the afternoon. Gee I love how a plan comes together.
I promised pics and here they are. I will be adding pics all the time to this site for now until I find a web host for a web page. I will post here when I add some, so you guys can go and check.
Here is the link. My .300 Win Mag Weatherby Vanguard picture album! (http://picasaweb.google.com/mickeydim468/WeatherbyVanguard300WinMag#)
I hope you enjoy. Some of the pictures are a bit blurry because the lens on the camera was dirty, and I didn't know it at first. Now it is too late, I have altered the as received stock so I can't get more of how it was. I will try not to let that happen again.
February 28, 2010, 07:41 AM
You can pick a template and move from there. It should be plenty flexible for this.
February 28, 2010, 10:18 AM
Here's a good thread for you.That is a great thread, dfariswheel really knows how to finish a stock.
mickeydim468, that is an exceptionally good looking stock. Look forward to seeing the final product. You should end up with a rifle that looks like a nice Mk. V.
February 28, 2010, 01:17 PM
In the middle of trying to take pictures, sand the new stock, shoot in the rimfire match, work, and be a dad, I will try to work on authoring a website. I think for now, I will just use Picasa for you folks here on THR to see the progress and will do the website last.
It has a lot of figure to it even though I could only afford the Semi-Fancy grade Claro Walnut. I am very happy with the wood. It seems very easy to form, so far!
As Hoghunting suggested, I am going to work on inletting the action today, and try to get out to the range this afternoon with it. It is pretty close to fitting completely now, so I do not have much to do on it. I hope! ;)
I will bring a range report if I can actually follow these plans today. It turns out that today is a beautiful sunny day!
February 28, 2010, 09:53 PM
I took it out and shot it as I hoped for. I had to buy some Federal Power Shock 150gr ammo to try. After sighting in the scope and then moving the scope, and then re-sighting in the scope, I was able to shoot this attached target, showing a 5 shot group above the orange dot, and 2 shots from before moving the scope. I ran out of targets, so I had to shoot the 5 shot group on this one that already had the 2 holes.
Anyway, the group measures around 1.5 to 1.75" I think. I haven't gotten out the calipers and measured. I am too tired to do it tonight, since they are down in the basement. I am not sure what this result tells me, but I was hoping you guys could help with that.
February 28, 2010, 11:37 PM
Looks like it may be touching the bbl and causing it to string, or have unpredictable shot placement due to changing pressure from shot to shot. Either way I would ensure that the stock is floating properly.
March 1, 2010, 09:04 AM
What size were your groups before replacing the stock? Is this the same ammo you were using with the old stock? As Maverick suggested, is the barrel free floated? Without tightening the screws, does the action move in the stock? Since you are going to all the trouble and expense of replacing the stock, you might as well bed the action and recoil lug for a perfect fit. Then try the same ammo. If you don't get better results, try different types of ammo until you get tighter groups.
March 1, 2010, 11:51 AM
I had planned to bed the action, I still think I need to relieve some wood in the barrel channel too. It seems your opinion is to go forward with my plans to do this work. But, that I should do it before doing any further work on the sanding and finishing of the stock. Is that right?
March 1, 2010, 12:19 PM
What size were your groups before replacing the stock?
If you look at the additional pictures on that picture hosting site for this rifle, you can see that they are not too much different than what I showed here. The test target from the factory showed a 1.25" 3 shot group. Part of what I am trying to do with the new stock is to improve upon that.
When I finally got the action into the stock and got it tightened up, I noticed that the action seemed to sit too low into the stock. To the point that the thing on the bottom of the bolt. I do not know what the technical term is for that piece. But that piece that makes contact with the trigger to fire then rifle, hits the wood right behind the tang screw. Also, the tang sits about 1-2mm below wood level. Does this mean I need to relieve more wood, or does it mean that I need to build up below the action about 1-2mm. If I relieve the wood on top, then I have to relieve at least 1mm throughout the barrel channel to get it to free float. The barrel was not completely free floating during the test firing yesterday, but I was not sure what to do after the action seated too low. So I just went out and shot it. :)
March 1, 2010, 12:44 PM
The test target from the factory showed a 1.25" 3 shot group. Part of what I am trying to do with the new stock is to improve upon that. Shouldn't be a problem if you fit it properly. I would finish inletting the stock, then bed the action (don't bed the bbl, at least not yet), then finish the outside of the furniture.
The barrel was not completely free floating during the test firing yesterday, but I was not sure what to do after the action seated too low.Well there is your problem...and a good one to have (in comparison to others). Without seeing the barreled action in the stock (I don't know that I would be able to tell from photos, but they wouldn't hurt) I can't tell whether meat needs to be removed from the channel or added below the action, but FME (very little with custom stocks) the barrel channel and sometimes beside of the action is the only parts that need stock removed for proper inletting...so I think you just need to take a rasp to the barrel channel and hog out some of the excess.
March 1, 2010, 12:58 PM
I think you just need to take a rasp to the barrel channel and hog out some of the excess.
I think before I do that, I need to bed the action and bring it up about 1mm first. Otherwise, all of the metal will sit too deep into the stock. I can take more pictures later today after work. I will show you what I mean.
March 1, 2010, 01:18 PM
I think before I do that, I need to bed the action and bring it up about 1mm first. Otherwise, all of the metal will sit too deep into the stock.You're absolutely right...definitely need to bed the action before cutting out more of the bbl channel, but you might want to remove a bit more from the chamber end before you bed (if needed)...but if you don't it isn't a big deal, a Dremel is a heck of a thing. ;)
March 1, 2010, 01:24 PM
I plan to bed at least the first 2" of the barrel near the chamber, no matter what. I will make sure to have enough room in that area of the barrel channel before I do the bedding.
March 1, 2010, 01:26 PM
I plan to bed at least the first 2" of the barrel near the chamber, no matter what. I will make sure to have enough room in that area of the barrel channel before I do the bedding.Yep, that is what I'm talking about...I too would bed the chamber.
March 1, 2010, 04:29 PM
If you need to raise the action for bedding, just tape the barrel so it won't fit all the way in the barrel channel, and it will hold the action higher. Snug the action screws when bedding, not too tight, as you don't want to pull the action further into the stock. Make sure that when the floorplate is screwed to the action, the magazine box is not bound. The box needs to have some up and down travel to it as the wood shrinks, you don't want the action to bend around the magazine box.
After I bedded my action, I took out enough wood in the barrel channel and glass bedded the barrel channel. I wrapped the barrel with 0.020" thick vinyl tape, and added another strip of tape on the lower portion of the barrel for 0.040" clearance from the stock. I didn't extend the 2nd layer of tape to the top of the barrel channel as I didn't want such a large gap showing between the barrel and the stock. You need to take out quite a bit of wood, but the glass bedding is very strong and will seal the channel.
March 1, 2010, 04:42 PM
You guys are great! This is why I became a member of THR! The wealth of knowledge available here is priceless! So, are the relationships with the members I have met (online) and chatted with.
I like the tape idea. I have some black tape that is intended to wrap natural gas line that I had thought about using. I am not sure the exact thickness, but it is about the thickness of a business card. I didn't think about adding the second piece under the barrel unseen. This is a great idea! Thanks!
March 1, 2010, 08:36 PM
As promised, I have uploaded new pictures to the Picasa picture hosting site. I added 22 new pictures today. Click here to go take a look and let me know what you think so far.
Same picture page as above, but more pics now (http://picasaweb.google.com/mickeydim468/WeatherbyVanguard300WinMag#)
March 2, 2010, 12:21 AM
From the look of it you can easily bring the barrel (and action) down a little in the stock. Lookin' good;
March 2, 2010, 12:57 AM
I have some black tape that is intended to wrap natural gas line that I had thought about using.
That's exactly what I used and mine was marked .020. I checked it with my calipers just to be sure.
Could you post a couple of pictures of the whole action - without the bolt - from both sides as it will be easier to see how it's fitting? You're getting there, just use patience and take your time.
March 2, 2010, 11:30 AM
I am at work now, but I can do that after work this afternoon. I may be able to sneak a picture while I am working too. I am not sure, but I'll try.
March 2, 2010, 02:17 PM
I added 6 pictures of the action as you asked for. If you need more pictures, let me know.
March 2, 2010, 03:06 PM
You are right as the rear action screw extends too far above the tang, and that will bind the mag box. I would make a couple of small shims to fit under the action to raise it to the right height, then just bed them in with the action. I put masking tape on the sides of the action that house the mag as I only wanted the lug, front of the action, and tang area fully bedded. The masking tape gave me 0.004" clearance between the action and stock.
March 2, 2010, 04:05 PM
I made some shims out of some washers I had here that was intended for 1/4" bolts. I ended up having to use 3 in front and 3 in back to get it to the correct height. I am going to look for something thicker and use just one, but at least now I know the correct thickness. I will post pics once I have it properly shimmed. Or, Here is a question for you... Why don't I just go ahead and pillar bed it and leave this amount extended under the action. Then I can just bed around that? What do you think?
March 2, 2010, 08:03 PM
I pillar bedded my stock too, but I didn't know if you wanted to do that much work. I turned my pillars on a lathe using aluminum stock. If it will fit, put heat shrink tubing on the action screws to keep the screws centered in the pillars when glassing. Do the pillar bedding all by itself, then the action the next day. Highly recommend pillars on a wood stock, and it will fix seating your action. I also glass bedded my floorplate, but put masking tape along its sides for a little clearance.
March 2, 2010, 08:33 PM
I just screwed up! While drilling the hole to a larger diameter for my pillar, the bit cought and twisted and broke through the thin wood wall into the trigger well. I was able to finish the hole through the stock, but instead of a hole, I now have a channel. There is a gap about 1/8" all the way top to bottom. I have a length of 3/8" stock aluminum tubing that I am going to use as the pillars. I am able to insert this tube into the hole, and I think that I will be using some Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue to secure it in place. I will let that cure over night and then bed the action tomorrow afternoon. I only plan to bed the recoil lug and tang areas of the stock, since the wood is already a very nice fit on all other parts of the action. I do not see any gaps other than the small areas at the front of the action on both sides as indicated on my last set of pictures with the caption noting this as well. I will also bed the first 2" of the barrel channel too. I am going to be relieving some additional wood tonight so I can bed that area tomorrow as well.
I think it will be OK!
March 2, 2010, 08:53 PM
Least you went through to an area that isn't seen...that is about as good of a screw up as I know of. Thought it was going to be something really bad (like drilled all the way through). Take your time...you'll be fine.
March 2, 2010, 09:19 PM
No, I got it going forward now. Phew, I panicked there for a minute. :)
I cut the tubing to length now and test bolted it in. It is a little tight on the tang screw, but that's because the drill moved forward so the tube is about 1/2 to 1mm forward of where it should have been. I may wallow it out and just force the tube back there and glue it in place.
Any other suggestions before I do that?
March 2, 2010, 09:34 PM
I just uploaded some pics of my Oops! Plus a pic of my pillars.
Check it out.
March 2, 2010, 10:26 PM
Well, all is glued in place. I added more pics.
March 4, 2010, 03:58 PM
I went and bought the Brownell's Glass bedding kit yesterday and followed the directions that came with the kit to glass bed the action and barrel channel to seal the wood. I couldn't find the plumber's tape I had intended to use, so I used some of the blue painter's masking tape. I used 2 layers for the full length of the barrel, from 2" from the action at approximately the front of the chamber, out to the end of the stock, and an additional layer under the barrel where it would not be seen, the same length as the other layers. I taped the top of the stock, so the glass would not do anything to the finish. I also taped up the trigger group, safety, and bolt release so it didn't get mechanically locked in place. I did not bed the entire action, I only filled the recoil lug area and the tang. I also added a small amount under the bolt handle where there was a small gap. At this time I decided to bed the trigger guard as well. I finished putting things all back together at about 6:30PM last night.
The directions indicated that the action and barrel should be removed 10 hours later, so I woke up at 4:30AM this morning and removed them from the stock. I had a very hard time completing this step. I thought it was going to take an act of congress to get it out. Eventually, after coercing the action with a rubber mallet and a piece of 1/2" round steel stock, strategically placed under the action, and a few taps on the barrel with the rubber mallet near the stock, it gave way and decided to let me win.
The bedding looks absolutely beautiful. The only complaint is that I wish that I had used a little more glass at the tip of the stock. There is a small area where there is no bedding glass, and the wood is exposed. I am going to cut the glass at a 90* and just remove the obscure shaped glass for a more uniform look. I do not have more pictures to upload at this time, but I will take some after work, so you can see how it turned out.
By the way... I can slide a piece of paper between the barrel and stock the full length of the barrel up to the front of the chamber, so I am happy with that!
March 5, 2010, 12:56 PM
I did quite a bit of sanding last night, and the stock is really starting to take shape.
Why is it natural for a new shooter to put their finger on the trigger right away, when they pick up a firearm? Because guns are made so the trigger is in a natural position, for comfort during shooting. Right?
I did something about it on my new stock. I made and alternate natural feeling "Place to put your trigger finger", while still keeping the trigger natural feeling as well. I don't know why other gun makers have not thought of this before, but it hit me last night when I assembled the rifle and was holding it. I realized my finger, while not on the trigger, felt very awkward. So I started sanding a groove of sorts, so my finger has a place to rest, until I am ready to shoot. I mean to tell you, It feels great!.
I have taken more pictures and have posted them to the picasa album, so you all can see the results of my hard work.
Here is the link again: My Weatherby .300 Winny re-stocking page! (http://picasaweb.google.com/mickeydim468/WeatherbyVanguard300WinMag#)
Let me know what you think, and offer suggestions, as you see fit!
Thanks for looking!
March 5, 2010, 10:20 PM
What did you guys think of the finger rest, and the rest of the work I did?
Do you have any other advice before I go further?
March 6, 2010, 02:13 AM
Where there isn't enough Acraglas in the fore-end, just rough up the edges of the existing glass and bare wood, add more Acraglas and put the action back in the stock as you did before. That's an easy fix. My concern would be that the front pillar isn't visible in the lug recess. Either you didn't tighten the action screws enough when bedding or the pillar was too short. You're doing a fine job.
March 6, 2010, 02:23 AM
Unfortunately, the kit has you mix the entire contents of hardner and resin all at once. I do not have any more of the glass material. I was thinking about just using another epoxy resin to do the tip as you suggested. Unfortunately it would be gray in color unless I can find some sort of dye to make this epoxy brown.
I am going to take it out as is tomorrow and see what the groups do. It will have hardened for 3 days now, so I think it should be safe to shoot at this point. I will try to post some pics from the range tomorrow night.
I loaded up 40 rounds of what has shot the best so far in the past. I am hoping the 1.25 to 1.5" groups will have shrunk down to about 1" or less. Keep your fingers crossed for me. I will do my best to do my part.
Talk to you guys tomorrow.
Your words of encouragement are quite refreshing!
March 7, 2010, 10:57 AM
Any suggestions?Lowes and HD typically carry a clear two-part epoxy (FME it is best to avoid any 1pt. "epoxy"), but I have no experience with it. I typically just stick with JB-Weld.
March 7, 2010, 09:55 PM
What about dyes? I have some clear 2-part epoxy too. Do you think clear would look ok? or should I try to figure out how to dye it? Or I could leave it alone and wait until I get my next stock to refinish. I figure that won't be too awful long. My wife really likes this stock I am working on, so it won't be too hard to convince her to go ahead and do my other 2 rifles too. At that point, I will be able to do the tip with the left over from the next one and it will be a match.
BTW, I will have a range report with pictures tomorrow. I just got home from the range... Lets just say that I have never been able to do what I did with this rifle before today!
March 7, 2010, 11:09 PM
I wouldn't mess with dyes, I doubt they will work well with the epoxy. Don't know ho good clear would look, but I think that is your best option if you want to do it now. If you try it, start with a little and see how it looks.
March 9, 2010, 11:43 AM
I finally got the target pictures posted. I went out and shot on Sunday. My back was hurting to begin with, but I went anyway. I did my best, and for how badly I was hurting, I am ecstatic with my results. You can see the groups widen as I shot. I don't believe it was the gun. I was having a harder time controlling my breathing and at the last group I was even shaking from the pain.
Don't get me wrong... I was not in pain from the shooting of this rifle any more than if I was shooting a .22lr. I have chronic back problems and am partially disabled, to the point that I can only work from a computer at home, and even then I can only handle about 6 hours, then I have to go lay down for a few hours.
There is only one actual range within 60 miles and it is 56 miles away. So, I had to drive for about an hour to get there before shooting. The vibration of the car, really takes it's toll on my back, so that's why I can only shoot for a short time accurately.
I hope you enjoy the pics. They're at the bottom of my picture page in the order that I shot them.
Let me know what you think!
March 9, 2010, 02:00 PM
Lookin' good, it is hard to complain about a 0.5MOA group from a well stocked rifle. ;)
March 9, 2010, 03:21 PM
I agree with Maverick as it is definitely shooting much tighter groups. Was the barrel heating up? It doesn't take many shots from a sporter type barrel to heat up while shooting magnums. That might also explain the larger groups.
March 9, 2010, 04:08 PM
Yes the barrel was getting very hot towards the end there! I still think it was mostly me though. It is hard to explain pain to people. Especially if people have not experienced a lot of physical pain in their life. I have had many types of pain, from a truck falling off of a jack onto my middle finger type of pain, to being sling shotted off my motorcycle head first over the handlebars and landing on my head onto rocks with the bike landing on top of me, Thank GOD I was wearing a helmet! To having the ladder under me collapse out from under me and having my left arm yanked at a high rate of speed 90* backwards, ripping every tendon and muscle in my shoulder completely apart. Yeah, that one hurt. I was on my stomach laying face down with my left arm standing straight up as if at attention for the president or something.
But, none of that pain hurts as bad as what I live with daily as a result of very hard work as well as some of the accidents I have mentioned and others. Just sitting in front of the PC typing this, I am 5 hours into my work day, and I am shaking like a leaf and nearly unable to go on with my day. I have to force myself, and I will. I do have a Dr's appt today to see about having a nerve conduction study at the end of the week. Hopefully they can find something to help me.
Sorry, didn't mean to be pitiful, but sometimes I can't help but feel that way! It seems like I am getting to know you guys, so I also wanted you to know a little more about me.
Thanks for reading and all of your help! I certainly appreciate it!
March 10, 2010, 03:23 AM
I finished sanding and I am ready to put on the first coat of oil. I think after much discussion in another thread as well as other posts I have read in the past, plus my own experience with Tru Oil, I am going to go forward with using it. I am going to apply 1 coat tonight and will post pictures tomorrow. Wish me luck!
March 10, 2010, 11:49 AM
I applied 1 coat of 50/50 mix of Tru Oil and mineral spirits last night after my final sanding with 2000 grit sand paper. I hand rubbed it in with hard pressure until I thought my fingers were going to fall off! Then I rubbed some more. I was shocked at how dark the wood is. It was a good kind of shocked, but shocked just the same.
This morning I found the stock dry and hard. There are very few areas that are shiny. The wood sucked the majority of my first hard rubbed coat in. Although there is not many glossy areas on it, I am going to go ahead and sand it with some 400 and then 1000 grit sand paper before reapplying another coat. I will wet sand it for both grits with the 50/50 mixture as the wetting agent, just to bring out that deep look again. Like an idiot, I forgot to take pictures of the final sanded stock. Well, that's not entirely true... It was 12:30AM and I was tired and anxious to get finished up for the night. As it was, I didn't get to bed until almost 2AM.
I will take more pictures after work or sooner if work is slow. I will let you guys know, so you can see just how beautiful this is turning out!
March 10, 2010, 01:34 PM
Pics added to my album after first coat of Tru Oil/mineral spirits 50/50 mixture applied 10 hours ago. I have not sanded or rubbed with steel wool yet!
What do you think so far?
March 11, 2010, 01:03 AM
It's coming along very nicely. Just take your time and don't rush. Pull the recoil pad and seal the butt of the stock as it will soak up moisture.
March 11, 2010, 01:35 AM
Pull the recoil pad and seal the butt of the stock as it will soak up moisture.Not to hijack, but what is the best way to remove a glued on pad (or is there a good way without destroying it)?
March 11, 2010, 11:11 AM
Not a hijack there Maverick! This is a glued on Pachmeir Decellerator pad. I do not think I am going to attempt that. I paid extra for the pad and for them to install it, $56.00 I think it was. After the first coat, I realized keeping the oil off of the pad was going to be near impossible, so I taped it off with blue masking tape, before applying the second coat..
What do you think of the color? Pretty huh?
March 11, 2010, 12:08 PM
Unfortunately I have a stock that is glued on and desperately needs removed (to add weight), but don't know the best way to go about it. I wouldn't remove it if I didn't have to. I think you did right taping it.
You stock looks great, a few flecks, but I'm sure that is just a little dust or debris that will be sanded off before final coats.
March 11, 2010, 12:16 PM
I think there was still some saw dust in the air from all of that sanding I was doing. I did sand all of that off and wiped down the stock with alcohol before applying another coat of oil. I see much less signs of any specks this morning and the finish looks deeper as well. I will be sanding again after work, then applying another coat. This will be my first full strength coat of oil. the last 2 have had mineral spirits to cut the oil a bit.
March 11, 2010, 12:20 PM
I think there was still some saw dust in the air from all of that sanding I was doing.I figured that much, just thought it was best to mention it so you didn't miss it and cover it up. ;)
March 11, 2010, 01:58 PM
No, I didn't miss it. Thank you for your concern though! ;)
By the way, I have been racking my brain about a good way to remove your recoil pad. Seems to me I know a good way to do it, I just can remember the product name right now that would help deteriorate the glue. Do you know what kind of glue was used? Brand and product number?
It will come to me. I just need to stop thinking about it and it will hit me. Usually in the middle of the night. I will sit straight up in bed from a dead sleep and blurt it out. :D
I know... I am weird huh?
March 11, 2010, 02:59 PM
Not to hijack, but what is the best way to remove a glued on pad (or is there a good way without destroying it)?
The easiest way is to use a miter box and cut at the very edge of the pad. I use a hand-powered saw as it has a very small kerf and the pad can be glued back on.
This is a glued on Pachmeir Decellerator pad. I do not think I am going to attempt that. I paid extra for the pad and for them to install it
I find it amazing that they didn't screw the pad on. Are you sure it is glued? Squeeze the sides together to see if you notice the small cuts for the screw holes.
March 11, 2010, 03:06 PM
I did squeeze it together to see if there was any holes. I didn't find any. I was surprised too! I may give them a call later today and ask. I really wanted it screwed on, but I was not specific. I will let you know!
March 11, 2010, 03:24 PM
The easiest way is to use a miter box and cut at the very edge of the pad. I use a hand-powered saw as it has a very small kerf and the pad can be glued back on.Thanks for the information, might just end up replacing it with a good screw on pad (if I can find one), besides the original (standard Browning) affords little cushioning for a stout rifle.
Now back to the regular programing...
March 11, 2010, 03:46 PM
I have had really good luck with the limbsaver pads on my other rifles as well as this one I am working on now. I had one on the old stock and it helped quite a bit. They have them brand specific by rifle manufacturer too!
March 11, 2010, 09:37 PM
They have them brand specific by rifle manufacturer too!Not for a 1885 High Wall. :( I haven't decided what to use, but it is on the short list. It will have to be something that looks and performs good, and preferably screwed on. I think that I will have a smith fit it for "insurance reasons".
March 16, 2010, 07:27 AM
The next to last step is finished, and I took some more pictures. Then I finished it last night. I will take more pictures when the sun comes up today. Go to:http://picasaweb.google.com/mickeydim468/WeatherbyVanguard300WinMag# to view the pics. It is the last 6 pics. I will link a few here for you to see.
Never mind the scope mounts... I had to re-paint them black. They are completed and re-installed on the rifle.
This has been a very rewarding project. Now the big question? Which rifle should I do next? my M1917 or my .243?
The .243 is also a Weatherby Vanguard like this 300 Win Mag. Should I change it up and do the M1917 for a bit of a change? The M1917 is my brush gun. I only want one of the standard grade stocks for it that I will pillar bed and accurize, but it will be my beater go to gun for traipsing through the woods. That would be fun. But then again a cool yellow and black laminate stock for the 243 might be pretty cool too!
I shall leave it up to you fine fellows. I hope I get some responses. :D LOL
March 16, 2010, 09:07 AM
All your hard work paid off, that's outstanding.
March 16, 2010, 11:39 AM
Looks great, how does she shoot now?
March 16, 2010, 01:30 PM
Thank you Madcratebuilder! I appreciate it. I sure think it paid off as well!
I took her out to a field with my neighbor and we shot her. I only had 6 of my handloads and a box of Remmy Core Lokt 150Gr SPs. Even though I had only bore sighted the scope, I was on paper only 2" left and 0" high. My friend has a chrony and the factory loads were zooming out there at 3200fps. I made a slight adjustment on the scope and shot 2 more with the factory stuff and then changed to my hand rolled 165Gr Speer SPBTs, and chrony'd them. They shot an average of about 2975fps, which impressed the heck out of me. I have never chrony'd anything before starting to shoot with my friend a few months back. I had guestimated they were going about 3000fps so I was only a little shy of that. But here is the kicker! I shot 2 of my hand rolled and the second hit about .20" to the right of the first shot, and they were both in the bulls eye! I got so excited that I pulled the next three shots low and left. I could not control my breathing! :D LOL I wanted so badly to have that all elusive cloverleaf we all dream of I pulled it!
I have full confidence that this rifle would shoot cloverleafs if it had the right guy behind the wheel, but I am not that guy. I really love shooting it though! I will get more practice now that it does not kick like it did, and will become more and more proficient with it.
That's what it is all about right?
March 16, 2010, 01:39 PM
That group is nothing to complain about, though your velocity seems a bit low. I am getting more than 3k fps out of 190gr. bullets with mine. Is this by design (what it shoots best), or have you just begun developing loads for it?
March 16, 2010, 01:50 PM
This is a load that I developed for it. This is my go to load for accuracy. If you look at the pictures on my pics page you can see targets listed alphabetically. I took 4 shots with each load in a roundhouse manner. Meaning I shot 1 from load A then 1 from load B and then C etxx then back to a, b, c, etc until all loads were shot. I waited 2 minutes between each shot and 5 minutes between rounds or something like that. If you notice load H,I, and J, gave me the best results. Then I tweaked that to find out that 69.5Gr of H4350 was what my rifle liked the best. I do have a 24" barrel and the chrony was set up 10 feet away from the muzzle. I did not correct the number mathematically. The number I listed above is what the readout on the chrony stated. The Max load using this bullet and this powder according to my reloading book is 70Gr, so please start low and work up if you want to try my load. Know the signs of pressure and be safe.
What kind of powder are you using for your 300 Maverick?
BTW I am fairly new to developing loads, so any help would be appreciated. There is also a pic of my notebook of those loads and their measured group size in red ink. Hopefully you can read it. My writing may need some help.
March 16, 2010, 04:08 PM
What kind of powder are you using for your 300 Maverick?I am currently using IMR 4831, but I will be switching over to H-4831SC when I run out of the IMR powder. I plan to give RL-25 a shot next. I am relatively new to loading for my .300WM (fairly new rifle) so I am still perfecting the loads for it. I am using 190gr SMKs for the most part, but am also playing with 208gr. A-Max (for hunting), as well as 240gr. SMKs for longer range. Right now I am using several cases (mostly Winchester), but plan to transition to Norma cases as my supply dries up.
March 16, 2010, 08:16 PM
How are you getting such a high velocity then? My reloading book says that my H4350 is one of the faster shooting powders. Am I doing something wrong? Or are you loading over listed max?
March 16, 2010, 10:44 PM
How are you getting such a high velocity then? My reloading book says that my H4350 is one of the faster shooting powders. Am I doing something wrong? Or are you loading over listed max?Not exceeding max (though I probably could exceed it quite a bit with the long free-bore), but I do have a 26" bbl, which may account for some of the increase (though it shouldn't be that much).
March 17, 2010, 12:07 AM
Still looking good!
This thread has inspired me to refinish a laminated Mosin stock now....
March 26, 2010, 04:22 PM
This thread has inspired me to refinish a laminated Mosin stock now....
That's great! You will enjoy it. Be ready for a lot of work! I am done with my rifle and will post some new pictures soon.
I do need some help though!!!
I have 4 places that got "bumped" somehow after about the 10th coat of Tru Oil. This is where I stopped using the Tru Oil. I then lightly roughed up the finish with 0000 steel wool and then hand rubbed it with Stock Sheen. When it looked the way I wanted it to, I just buffed it dry and then added Gun Stock Wax and rubbed in three layers of that and buffed it to the shine I was looking for.
My question is this: Now that I am DONE. How do I go back and "FIX" the bumped areas. They are not scrapes that removed any wood, They are indented crevasses that need to be pulled out. Can this be done after the final finish is on or will I have to remove the finish to fix it?
March 26, 2010, 04:30 PM
I don't think I quite follow you, is it a void in the finish (an air bubble), or a dent in the wood...or something else altogether?
March 26, 2010, 04:36 PM
I accidentally bumped the butt against the metal chair I was sitting in while working on the fore-end. It was an impact and not a scrape. It is about 1" long and about the width of a medium point ball point pen line. maybe double that width. It is indented in the finish and the wood below gave way as well. I am thinking of trying to use a wet towel and an clothes iron to see if it will pull out the dent as it would if the wood was bare. Rubbing alcohol works too on bare wood, but now that the finish is on, I doubt either one will work. Has anyone tried this?
March 26, 2010, 04:43 PM
I forgot to mention that I cut off the butt stock to reduce the LOP by 1". This is where I will say that I was not happy with the manufacture of this stock. They screwed AND glued the butt pad on the rifle, not just screwed it. It was very hard to get the pad off without breaking it. I was forced to use what I had, which is a 12" compound miter saw to cut very close to the pad and then sand off the wood by hand. It worked and I recommend if you try this to be very careful, because your hand if forced to be very near the blade and this is a good way to lose a finger. Only try this at your own risk! A table saw would have been a much better choice, but someone stole mine a few years back and I haven't replaced it yet.
March 26, 2010, 04:44 PM
Haven't tried it on a newly finished rifle, but it seems to work petty fair on milsurps and the like. I would give steam a shot, but honestly I think you may have to end up stripping it for the best results. Hate to be a buzzkill...good luck.
It worked and I recommend if you try this to be very careful, because your hand if forced to be very near the blade and this is a good way to lose a finger.Been there done that (well the very tip of one). I think a bandsaw would be the best option, if one is available.
March 26, 2010, 04:49 PM
I was afraid of that. I may just leave it. It adds character! :D That way i won't be too unhappy when I get my first scrape or dent in the field. I wanted this to be a tool I would use anyway. It still looks pretty and has turned out to be very nice. I know where the other three bumps are, but you would have to find them. They are much smaller and not noticeable at all! I will try steam and see if it works though. Thanks for your thoughts!
April 8, 2010, 12:22 AM
I have done all I can on my stock. There are 2 battle scars that will have to stay there until I re-do the stock in 10 years. I am happy with the way it turned out. This was my first attempt at doing a stock job and I am proud of the job I did.
Would I do it again??? ABSOLUTELY!!! I actually can't wait to order my next stock for my .243 from Richards. That will be another thread though.
I know how much you guys like pictures, so I took, an additional 45 of them this afternoon. Sorry it took so long to do it, but the rain has been non-stop for ages. Here is the link to my pics: My Pictures! (http://picasaweb.google.com/mickeydim468/WeatherbyVanguard300WinMag#) I dated all of the new pics with 4-7-10. scroll down to the scope reticle pic and go from there.
Enjoy! All Comments are welcome.
April 8, 2010, 10:14 AM
Looks great, you made a Vanguard look like a Mk. V. Looks like there is only two things left to do...shoot something, and start on the next one. ;)
April 8, 2010, 12:09 PM
I can't wait to be able to go out and shoot something. I want to do my .243 stock next. I am going to do it a little bit differently though. I will be adding more of a varmint type of stock, and instead of it being just Walnut, I am going to go with a laminent in a crazy color scheme or something. Just to change things up a bit.
BTW, Did you guys see what I did with the old synthetic stock from this Weatherby Vanguard? This thread, (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=499183) will tell you all about it.
April 8, 2010, 01:03 PM
BTW, Did you guys see what I did with the old synthetic stock from this Weatherby Vanguard? This thread [link removed], will tell you all about it.I did, and while you did a good job on it, I'm not a big fan of camouflage myself. http://forums.nitroexpress.com/images/graemlins/smilies/general/dunno.gif
April 8, 2010, 02:22 PM
That's ok Maverick!
You know I will change it again. :D I just was trying new stuff to see how it will work out. Pretty cool that the PC-Metal worked for the bedding though. Has anyone but me ever tried using anything other than the Brownelle's kit to bed their rifle?
April 8, 2010, 08:58 PM
I guess Maverick is the only one who likes pictures. :D Although there are a lot of views, I guess nobody else likes to comment. That's ok too! I just hope you guys liked to see the progression and maybe even learned something... I sure did!
Thanks to everyone who helped and commented. It has been a long project, that required a lot of work. It has been one of the most rewarding projects I have ever done. The best part of it is that I get to keep the rifle, and use it. I will hopefully pass it along to one of my kids someday!
Thanks for reading!
April 10, 2010, 08:24 PM
I took this rifle out to the range today, and I could not be more happy with it. It all came together today for sure! Can you tell I am excited and just jumping for joy!!!
Since I took that inch off the buttstock, I had not had the opportunity to shoot it. Today was the first time I could, and I jumped at the chance.
My neighbor and I went out and set up the shooting bench and target for 100Yds. He tried to sight in his 17HMR and then I shot my M1917 with open sights. I didn't do so hot with that. I am too blind. I need a scope.
Anyway, I finally got to my 300. I pulled it out and just sat it on the rest. I sat down, took a deep breath. I didn't waste any time... I just leaned over and looked through the scope. The sight picture was a perfectly full field through the scope. I didn't have to look for it as I had to do before. I pulled the rifle to the center of the target and squeezed off my first round.
It hit 2 3/4" high and dead center. I chambered another round and squeezed off another. It was 2 3/4" high and 1/2" right of dead center. I did it again and this time it was 3 5/8" high and center. So I shot again, it was 3 3/4 high and 3/4" right.
4 shots within the 1.5MOA guarantee that comes with the rifle when you buy it. I was so happy! The best part is I handed it to my friend Nathan and told him to give it a try. He sat down and shot it. He was hitting right in line with where I was and even one of his shots went in the same ragged hole as mine did. He held off for some Kentucky windage shot and hit the bulls-eye. He turned to me and told me that "This is one elk slaying machine you got here!"
We were talking on the way home and I mentioned the recoil. He and I both agreed that my 30-06 M1917 had more felt recoil than the .300Win Mag did, since the stock fits us better now and it is just an absolute pleasure to shoot. I would compare shooting it to my .243 Win, now! The best part is that I didn't have to touch the scope. I had it zeroed at 200 yards on my last range visit, and it was shooting about 3 to 3 1/2" high at 100 then too. I have absolute confidence now, that what I aim at, I am going to hit as long as it is at least 6 inches around or bigger out to about 300 yards. I need to practice at longer ranges to become more proficient, but for now 300 yards or so is good enough.
April 12, 2010, 03:45 PM
I have 3 pictures of my range report for you.
Here they are below.
The 3 shot group was my first 3 shots. Then the 4th shot is depicted in the 4 shot group pic and the 5th is depicted in the 5 shot group. The additional shots are the ones my friend Nathan fired. The one that is touching my 4th shot was his first shot aimed at the center of the target. The other 2 are him trying to put some Kentucky windage on it to hit center. He did alright too!
I hope you enjoy the pics!
April 12, 2010, 03:51 PM
Looks like you got a shooter too. Maybe you need to lop off another inch. :p
April 12, 2010, 08:29 PM
Thanks Maverick. I don't think another inch will do me any good! LOL My wife maybe, but not for me. Luckily my wife is a lefty, not much chance of her commandeering any of my rifles, but then again I can't just hand her down one and get me a new one either! Double edge sword there! LOL
April 14, 2010, 06:13 PM
Here are some more 3 shot groups from my range visit yesterday!
I did like I said and did 3 clicks left and 6 clicks down and the first group was still high. So I did 6 more clicks down and shot the second group. Then I decided to go back up 3 clicks, and shot the third group. I aimed at the red dot for all groups. The last group I aimed at the dot near the POI. If the scope holds zero, then I am a happy guy. It should be zeroed for 200 yards with a muzzel velocity on average of 2975 and being 1.5" high at 100 like group 3 shows.
1st group is the top group in the pic.
2nd is the one in the center.
3rd is the bottom right.
I took 3 pics so you could see the data on the right change in reference to each group. I have 3 more 3 shot groups that I can take a picture of if anyone wants to see them!
If so, let me know.
April 14, 2010, 07:29 PM
I went ahead and added the other three groups of three;
The 4th group is on top.
the 5th group is bottom left
the 6th group is on the right.
What is the average group size? Well lets see!
0.971+0.791+1.233+1.526+0.893+1.287=6.701/6=1.1168 and MOA=1.05"@100yds right?
1.1168"-1.05"=0.0668" over 1 MOA with an average of 18 shots. I'd say she is doing good!
Here are the rest of the pics.
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