Need cleaning suggestions


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mugsie
March 8, 2010, 06:49 PM
This is getting crazy. The antis are after our rights every minute of every day. The price of ammo keeps creeping up if you can find it (that's why I cast and reload) and now cleaning supplies?! I just purchased a can of CLP at one of my local stores - $10.00 for maybe $2.37 worth of material, can included! :fire:

So - what homemade remedies have you come up with for cleaning? I know synthetic ATF for lube, but what about cleaning? What have you found, which is readily available and still affordable?

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Drail
March 8, 2010, 06:55 PM
In the military we used diesel fuel, jet fuel, kerosene. Mineral sprits (paint thinner) works. Wear gloves, it's not nice to your skin. I still use CLP but not the aerosol kind. Look for CLP in the pint squirt bottle and use it to refill your small bottles. If you know anybody in the Marines or Army they can usually appropiate a one gallon jug. I can take one Qtip and soak it in CLP and clean an entire pistol with it and an M16 brush. Swab it on, let it soak and brush and wipe. If the gun is warm it helps a lot. Natchez shooters supply has good prices on CLP.

BeeGee
March 8, 2010, 06:58 PM
Mugsie,
I know guys use kerosene and oil mixed 3 to 1 but I don't fool with that. Midway has always had a good price on CLP Break Free and I wait till it's on sale to get the best price. Just a thought!
BeeGee

hanno
March 8, 2010, 07:04 PM
I clean the barrels of my semi-autos by putting them in a tupperware style sandwich container filled with Marvel Mystery Oil. I leave them in the container overnight or until I get around to cleaning them.

9mmepiphany
March 8, 2010, 08:48 PM
cleaning - 98% isopropyl alcohol or carburetor cleaner (if you like spray on stuff)

lube - Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil

Azimuth315
March 8, 2010, 08:53 PM
formula for "Ed's Red" bore cleaner:

1 part Dexron ATF
1 part kerosene
1 part mineral spirits
1 part acetone

lanolin 1 lb per gallon - optional

This formula will not harm bluing, Parkerization, or stainless steel. The acetone, however, will attack plastics and destroy wood finishes.

The lanolin is a good additive if you expect storage for a period of time. It is also good for your hands. It's not really necessary, although it does form a film that does not tend to migrate.

Google it for history, specific mixing instructions (if necessary), and your own satisfaction.

Regards - Al

Ed Harris
March 9, 2010, 12:33 PM
If you want to try a small amount before mixing your own here is the link at Brownell's. A portion of the proceeds benefit Junior shooter training programs of the Virginia Shooting Sports Association:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=19936

Here are links to various pages which have "the recipe" :

http://www.kuci.uci.edu/~dany/firearms/eds_red.html

http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/edred/original.asp

http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

SwampWolf
March 9, 2010, 12:54 PM
And for getting rid of stubborn lead residue, nothing is cheaper or more effective than a small section of copper Chore Boy scouring pad, wrapped around an old brass or nylon cleaning brush. It's readily available (I get mine at the local Wal Mart store). Just be sure you get the copper pads, not the steel ones, as Chore Boy makes both.

ctbullseye
March 9, 2010, 05:46 PM
Brake fluid, pour it on, wipe it off, oil it down, go shoot.

Texas Gun Person
March 9, 2010, 05:57 PM
I have taken a liking to Simple Green. Cheap and you can get it in gallon jugs.


Mix 1 part SG with 3 parts water... as per Simple Green's website.

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