Don't understand about the spray-on lubes...


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762NATO
March 12, 2010, 09:44 PM
According to the Lyman manual, it says that you should avoid lubing the case shoulder or it could result in a dented shoulder during resizing. So, my question is, how on earth do you spray an entire loading block of cases and not hit the shoulder??

I'd love to just spray a whole block of 'em and get it done, but the manual has me leaning towards using imperial wax or a lube pad.

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EddieNFL
March 12, 2010, 09:45 PM
I use spray. Haven't dented a shoulder, yet. I throw 'em in a plastic bag, spray and shake.

ole farmerbuck
March 12, 2010, 09:51 PM
Hornady one shot is all i use. Never had a problem plus it lubes inside the neck.

Walkalong
March 12, 2010, 10:10 PM
A little lube there won't hurt.

cmgred
March 12, 2010, 10:14 PM
+1 on Hornady One shot Lube in a ziploc.

ole farmerbuck
March 12, 2010, 10:31 PM
I use a 50 round loading tray. I can put 100 cases on it and give them all an even coat by setting it on a bar stool in the middle of the reloading room. Walk around the stool while spraying, then carefully carry it to the bench without spilling them! Never dented shoulders.

kelbro
March 12, 2010, 11:32 PM
Shoulders dent from hydraulic pressure. Thick lube that plugs the vent. A spray of One-Shot, allowed to dry according to the instructions, will not cause dents.

oneounceload
March 13, 2010, 12:04 AM
Watch the fumes from the Hornady stuff - not exactly friendly to breathe

ants
March 13, 2010, 01:59 AM
...contain lanolin or similar natural lubricant, with alcohol as a solvent. Spray it on the brass, the alcohol evaporates, a thin film of lubricant is left. The thin film won't dent cases like the old roll lubricant did.


But here's a tip. The lanolin and alcohol only stay mixed for a few seconds. So you have to keep shaking while you spray. If you stop, the lanolin sinks to the bottom and you spray pure lanolin. When it's gone, all you have in the container is pure alcohol. Next time you spray that, the alcohol evaporates and you got nuthin' on your brass. Then your cases get stuck in the die. So keep constantly shaking while you spray.



For large centerfire rifle or difficult cases, uses Imperial or Lee. They are carnauba type waxes, and are far superior to any other case lubricant.

Remo-99
March 13, 2010, 01:59 AM
According to the Lyman manual, it says that you should avoid lubing the case shoulder or it could result in a dented shoulder during resizing.

They proberbly should have elaberated a little more, saying 'excessive lube on the shoulders may cause dents'.
A light film on there is not gonna do too much, where as excess lube is trapped during sizing and goes the only it can go, displacing the softer brass which is forced inward.

Marlin 45 carbine
March 13, 2010, 06:19 AM
that's why I prefer Lee dies for bottle-neck cases they have a hole near the top that any air or excess lube is squeezed out of, RCBS don't.
these are the only dies I've used so far.
I prefer Lee for straight cases too as the powder-thru-expander speeds up loading. I have single-stage presses, 2 in tandem a Chucker and a Lee Classic.

JimKirk
March 13, 2010, 08:07 AM
All my Bottle neck RCBS dies have a bleed hole, so do my Lyman, Pacific, Hornady and Reddings.

Jimmy K

Walkalong
March 13, 2010, 10:38 AM
but if the lube is oozing out, you used way too much. ;)

Marlin 45 carbine
March 13, 2010, 11:34 AM
the only RCBS die set I have is an older 30-30 that doesn't have a 'bleed hole' in the seating/crimping die, maybe the older ones didn't have. the 2 Lee bottleneck die set I have the bleed hole is there near the neck area.

rcmodel
March 13, 2010, 12:01 PM
Never spray them standing in a loading block.

For one thing, the heavy case head taper that needs lube most won't get any.
Because they are down inside the loading block.

For another thing, who wants a perfectly good loading block all slimy with case lube & dirt stuck all over it?

I use an old Tupperware mixing bowl.
Dump the cases in it, spray, and hand mix the cases, then spray again.

After the solvent dries, I hand wipe each case by giving it a twist in my other fingers as I pick it up out of the bowl and resize them.

That leaves just a very thin layer all over each case.
The shoulders will not dent.

I also have a coffee can hanging right beside the press, and the sized case in dropped in it on the way to picking up another one out of the bowl.
It minimizes hand movement and probably doubles the speed you can resize compared to standing each one in a hole in a loading block.

rc

armarsh
March 13, 2010, 10:21 PM
The directions, right from the bottle of dillion case lube, say to spread the cases out on a cookie sheet stolen from your spouse.

918v
March 13, 2010, 10:23 PM
According to the Lyman manual, it says that you should avoid lubing the case shoulder or it could result in a dented shoulder during resizing. So, my question is, how on earth do you spray an entire loading block of cases and not hit the shoulder??

I'd love to just spray a whole block of 'em and get it done, but the manual has me leaning towards using imperial wax or a lube pad.
I like Imperial. No mess. Never a stuck case. Wipes off in a jiffy. Lasts forever.

ole farmerbuck
March 13, 2010, 10:33 PM
Never spray them standing in a loading block.

For one thing, the heavy case head taper that needs lube most won't get any.
Because they are down inside the loading block.

For another thing, who wants a perfectly good loading block all slimy with case lube & dirt stuck all over it?

I use an old Tupperware mixing bowl.
Dump the cases in it, spray, and hand mix the cases, then spray again.

After the solvent dries, I hand wipe each case by giving it a twist in my other fingers as I pick it up out of the bowl and resize them.

That leaves just a very thin layer all over each case.
The shoulders will not dent.

I also have a coffee can hanging right beside the press, and the sized case in dropped in it on the way to picking up another one out of the bowl.
It minimizes hand movement and probably doubles the speed you can resize compared to standing each one in a hole in a loading block.

rc
I only use the loading block for 223's and the holes are shallow and big enough that i have no problem spraying lube on the bottom of the cases. I do know what you are saying though. I have plenty of blocks so useing one for spraying isnt going to hurt anything. The holes are big enough for 22-250 cases, not a tight fit at all for 223's.

allen4150
March 13, 2010, 11:12 PM
I think they are talking about those paste lubes that come in a tube where you apply with your fingers. It IS easy to over do it with that stuff.

alsaqr
March 14, 2010, 08:27 AM
Hornady one shot is all i use. Never had a problem plus it lubes inside the neck.


Works for me.

Johnny Guest
March 16, 2010, 10:59 AM
I also have a coffee can hanging right beside the press, and the sized case in dropped in it on the way to picking up another one out of the bowl.
It minimizes hand movement and probably doubles the speed you can resize compared to standing each one in a hole in a loading block. Seems to me that rifle brass gets dented easily if handled roughly before it is reloaded. I suggest putting a wadded-up shop towel, terry wash cloth, or the like, in the coffee can. It provides a cushion and prevents some of the dings and case mouth nicks.

Best,
Johnny

ny32182
March 16, 2010, 11:37 AM
I lay all the cases out on an old rag and orient them with all the case mouths pointing the same way. Then I spray One-Shot from a 45 degree angle so I hit the body and down in the mouth as well. I get plenty on the shoulder. I then roll the cases over so the other side is up, and repeat. I don't wait as long as it says to wait on the bottle before I start sizing. Sometimes I get very small shoulder dents, but for my purposes this is irrelevant anyway.

My question about the ziploc bag approach is, how do you get lube in the case mouth? It needs to be there.

Imperial wax and the like is a total mystery to me... I'd need to hit youtube or something to figure out how that is applied both inside and outside.

cmgred
March 16, 2010, 12:01 PM
I use a few short sprays (1-2 seconds each) of the stuff, and shake the bag in between. I you reuse the same bag multiple times it tends to go everywhere. At least I haven't had any problems.

ForneyRider
March 16, 2010, 09:49 PM
I started with Lee, then Hornady One Shot and currently use Imperial Sizing wax. I will use One Shot from time to time on pistol.

With full length sizing of bottleneck cases, lubing every other or even every 3rd case works pretty well. I only dimpled shoulders on 30-30. I cut back the lube and have no more issues of that sort.

dboyles
March 16, 2010, 11:22 PM
I lay all the cases out on an old rag and orient them with all the case mouths pointing the same way. Then I spray One-Shot from a 45 degree angle so I hit the body and down in the mouth as well. I get plenty on the shoulder. I then roll the cases over so the other side is up, and repeat. I don't wait as long as it says to wait on the bottle before I start sizing. Sometimes I get very small shoulder dents, but for my purposes this is irrelevant anyway.

My question about the ziploc bag approach is, how do you get lube in the case mouth? It needs to be there.

Imperial wax and the like is a total mystery to me... I'd need to hit youtube or something to figure out how that is applied both inside and outside.
I use Imperial for the case, and the Frankford Arsenal Neck Lubricator (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=197010) for case necks. I pick up a case with my right hand and pass it to my left, using my left thumb and index fingers to coat the body with Imperial wax, then dip the case neck in the mica lube and over the brush, and then on to the press, which I pull with my right hand. While I'm picking up the next case with my right hand, I do a light "thumbprint" in the tin of Imperial and repeat the process over.

rjbishop
March 18, 2010, 12:09 PM
I lay all the cases out on an old rag and orient them with all the case mouths pointing the same way. Then I spray One-Shot from a 45 degree angle so I hit the body and down in the mouth as well. I get plenty on the shoulder. I then roll the cases over so the other side is up, and repeat.

...This. I find it's the most reliable method to ensure the cases and the neck interior are lightly coated. I line them all up laying down, so the neck is facing me. I use a very steep angle when spraying to ensure the necks get just the right amount.

By the way- I like to use RCBS Case Slick- the dilution medium contains Hexane which provides two benefits. One, the lanolin remains in suspension and does not settle out. Two, it evaporates quicker than alcohol. This generally results in just the correct thin coating of lubricant.

ants
March 18, 2010, 12:40 PM
Imperial wax and the like is a total mystery to me... I'd need to hit youtube or something to figure out how that is applied both inside and outside. When applying wax lubricants by finger, you always have a small amount on the pad of your thumb and fingers. Scrape the pad of your finger with the rim of the case mouth and it picks up a small amount of wax inside the neck. It doesn't have to be 360 degrees all around, just on one spot. Do this on every case mouth, and it keeps the wax built up on the neck button inside the sizing die. It works!

rondog
March 18, 2010, 02:05 PM
I met a guy once that showed me how he lubed lots of cases. He used a pair of cheap cotton gloves, put some Imperial on them and rubbed it in like hand lotion, then just put all the cases in a plastic tub and rubbed/handled them for a couple minutes with the gloves on. Seemed like a good idea to me.

I just use the spray stuff, but it does stink! Next time I'll do it in the garage. I like the ziploc bag idea.

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