10/22 Glass bedding an action


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FenderTK421
March 14, 2010, 08:04 AM
Hey guys, I have 1 of my 10/22's torn down and awaiting some parts and was curious about glass bedding the action in the mean time. I searched the old posts, google and even youtube and didn't come up w/ much. While I realize it probably isn't necessary, there is very little left that I can do to this gun, and this would add a custom, non-bolt on/drop in feature that i could take pride in for it's personal touch. Youtube actually had a link to a place to buy a video, but I would much rather buy a reputable book/manual that taught me the proper fundamentals to use on this, and perhaps other (larger) rifles. It appears that there are only 2 real contact points between my action and the Boyd's stock, the barrel is already free floating. This gun is just a target rifle and is used from a bi-pod on a bench. Anyone able to give me some advice or steer me towards a good publication? Thanks a lot!

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Runningman
March 14, 2010, 09:52 AM
It not a good idea to have a free floating barrel on a 10/22. Run from anyone who tells you to do that to a 10/22. They don't know what they are talking about.

The 10/22 uses a single action screw on the forward part of the receiver. If you try to run a free floating barrel on a 10/22 the barreled action will teeter totter lifting the back of the receiver up because of the weight of the barrel.

Ruger stocks and the better aftermarket stocks will use a pressure point on the forward section of the barrel channel with a contact point for a good reason. The pressure point will be just enough that it will allow the receiver to sit flat in the receiver cut out area.

You can check this using a barreled action, without the trigger group and bolt installed using feeler gages.

BSlacker
March 14, 2010, 11:44 AM
The 10/22 uses a single action screw on the forward part of the receiver. If you try to run a free floating barrel on a 10/22 the barreled action will teeter totter lifting the back of the receiver up because of the weight of the barrel.

The stock has a shelve at the rear that accepts the trigger group/reciever in such a way to prevent this.

Check out these folks they are 10/22 experts.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=116

FenderTK421
March 14, 2010, 05:02 PM
Nice forum BSlacker thanks. n I will check them out. I appreciate your opinion to Runningman, thanks

Runningman
March 14, 2010, 05:24 PM
The stock has a shelve at the rear that accepts the trigger group/reciever in such a way to prevent this.
From Rimfirecentral

MKnarr "The question about "free floating" the barrel comes up quite often with reference to the 10/22. Part of it is caused by impricise answers. Let me tell you my thoughts on "free floating".

Every stock 10/22 I have seen, has a little pad of wood at the tip of the forearm under the barrel. That pad is not caused by sloppy workmanship by Ruger and they aren't that dumb to put it there by accident. It is there to support the receiver, not the barrel.

Try this experiment. Take your barreled action out of the stock and lay it on the table. Put a pencil under the barrel and move it back and forth until the barreled action is balanced. Well almost balanced. How far in front of the action screw is the pencil? What you now have is a teeter toter. When the barreled action is screwed into the stock with the single takedown screw, the rifle still wants to teeter about that same balance point doesn't it. That's why many guys that buy an after market stock, sand out the barrel channel for their new .920 barrel can push the barrel down in the stock. Actually the receiver is coming up in the air.

So the recommendation when bedding a 10/22 is to bed the rear of the receiver, the front if your aren't using a pillar which is actually the best way, and the barrel channel out to at least the balance point and a bit beyond. Now when you tighten the single takedown screw, it will trap the barreled action between the rear of the reciever and the bedding under the barrel. This is what most people are refering to when they say a free floating barrel. On actions with multiple screws, you can actually free float the entire barrel because the reciever is trapped by the multiple screws.

Anyone who floats the entire barrel on a 10/22 with a single screw and gets half decent groups, is just plain lucky. More than likely, the groups would improve with bedding under a portion of the barrel. And the bedding under the barrel is not there to support a barrel and keep it from drooping, it is there to support the receiver. Unless your barrel falls into your receiver, you aren't likely to get much barrel droop if any."

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151601&highlight=teeter+totter

Vincent "Thats why you are supposed to glass bed the 2 or 3 inches at the chamber end. If you had done that you would not be getting the droop. I also shim under that area with cut targets if I'm not ready to bed.

I keep writing this. Bill ruger designed the 10/22 to have the barrel band and if not that AT LEAST a forearm tip pressure pad. On my 1976 carbine the pad is much more noticeable that new ones. When you take this away not only will the barrel droop but you are stressing that flimsy aluminum action and you are going to have other problems.

If this rifle were mine I would shim the forearm tip to get the barrel BACK to where it is supposed to be and then bed 2 or 3 inches in front of the chamber. Do that and you need no special rings and no adjustable vee block. The barrel needs support. The other methods only bandaid a bad problem you have created. I even bed 700 Remingtions like this and they have TWO anchor points and a massive steel action. The poor little Ruger has ONE anchor point assuming the barrel band is removed or floated and that flimsy action.

What you are doing right now is stressing the heck out of the action screw area. I would not even be surprised if the the action is up in the back as it has teeter tottered up when the barrel went down.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO COMPLETELY FLOAT A BARREL UNLESS YOU DO OTHER THINGS LIKE ADDING A SECOND ACTION SCREW. The rifle will be more accurate besides. Shim it for now and bed it soon. " http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159187&highlight=teeter+totter

RobertsUSA
March 14, 2010, 11:43 PM
Runningman-------great write up on the bedding and theory.

When I did mine, I made a custom stainless steel action bolt with a thicker shoulder and made a thick washer type of insert with some grooves to hold the bedding compound. Now the action bolt acts like a piller bedded recoil lug or combination of all these ideas.

As your writeup explains, the barrel is best lightly supported. After bedding the action "washer/piller sleeve" and the rear was fully bedded, I then slipped a .005" shim between the action and the insert and bedded the barrel to the stock for about an inch. After curing was complete. I removed the shim and reinstalled the action screw which now as contact is made tightens in about 1/2 turn or so. Really solid without undue negative pressure on the barrel.

I am not the best shot but have many 5 shot groups in the 1/4" to 3/8" at 50 yards. Far better than I need but it was a fun project to make all the stuff myself. I haven't tried 100 yards since all the mods were completed.

Thanks for the informative posts.
Ed

godsey5
March 15, 2010, 02:49 PM
Mine is pillar and glass bedded front and rear. in the front about 1 inch in front of the v-block. bull barrel free floated with an adjustable v-block installed to prevent barrel drop in a boyds blaster stock. Mine shoots very well. There are two schools of thought on the free floating vs pressure pad. People have had good results doing both. Do some reading on rimfire central and make your own decision. The are THE site when it come to tweaking 22's especially tweaking 10/22. A lot of good DIY info. Have fun the 10/22 are a blast to play with and wrench on.

JIm

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