using a dreml in conjunction with a shotgun
AcceptableUserName
March 15, 2010, 01:00 PM
how do you guys use a dreml to polish a chamber? I see no attachments that are already chamber diameter? How do you guys usually jerry rig your dreml to polish a chamber? None of my cleaning attachments will fit in my black and decker rotary. I've been using a cordless drill. But it doesnt spin like the rotary and it's a whole lot less convenient.
Also, can someone l;ink me to a brush that'll scrub out my forcing cones a little better than the standard brass and patch approach?
If you enjoyed reading about "using a dreml in conjunction with a shotgun" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join
TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
rcmodel
March 15, 2010, 01:27 PM
You don't use a Dremel to polish a chamber.
Use a slotted dowel rod with flaps of very fine black emery paper & a cordless drill.
Polish while moving it back and forth in over-lapping motions.
That will insure you don't polish dip-de-do's in the chamber walls like would very likely happen with a high-speed Dremel.
Also, any Dremel attachment long enough to polish a chamber will bend 90 degrees, and fly off and put your eye out when you turn it on.
rc
AcceptableUserName
March 15, 2010, 01:31 PM
thanks! looks like i was on the right track to begin with.
oletymer
March 15, 2010, 05:32 PM
You can also simply wrap some 0000 steel wool around your bore brush. I use the bottom section of the cleaning rod chucked up in my drill, spray a little oil in the chamber and polish away.
AcceptableUserName
March 15, 2010, 05:53 PM
what if only one part of my chamber is rough? i got a brand new barrel from Mossberg, all of the barrel is smooth like a mirror except for one section of the chamber which is quite rough..
rcmodel
March 15, 2010, 06:02 PM
The most critical part of the chamber is the back 1/2" - 3/4" or so where the metal case head can expand and not let go.
Further foreword where the plastic hull is, is not so critical as the plastic is slippery & self lubricating.
If it's rough at the rear and causing extraction problems, polish it as I outlined in post #2.
Steel wool will knock off the whiskers left from reaming, but will actually do no metal removal if you have reamer marks left in the chamber. The problem with it is, it follows the reamer rings & grooves you are trying to get rid of. SO it cleans the bottom of the grooves at the same rate it clean the tops, and you just end up with shiny grooves.
You have to use fine emery paper flaps on a dowel rod to take the tops off the grooves.
rc
RandKL
March 15, 2010, 09:09 PM
what if only one part of my chamber is rough? i got a brand new barrel from Mossberg, all of the barrel is smooth like a mirror except for one section of the chamber which is quite rough..
I've never had a bad barrel from Mossberg, first off. So if it's not giving you problems, why turn it into one? Unless you're having sticking hull probs, there's zero reason to be polishing *anything* in the chamber.
If it's a used barrel, you're probably seeing powder residue right at the hull lip/forcing cone after firing. It's always going to happen and it isn't a sign of a problem. Worrying about it and polishing it out every time will just give you ulcers.
rich
RandKL
March 15, 2010, 09:12 PM
Use a slotted dowel rod with
I always used ScotchBrite pad tied onto a dowel. No slotting necessary and no constant replacement of the sandpaper.
r
If you enjoyed reading about "using a dreml in conjunction with a shotgun" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join
TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.