[Windwalker]

I ran a search, but didn't find anything. I have an Ortgies 6.25 (Dad's bring-back from WWII) which I have field stripped, following directions found on the web. To remove the barrel, the directions call for holding the frame with the right hand, the barrel with the left, and twisting the barrel counter-clockwise. When I try, the barrel doesn't budge. Thinking there might be a little accumulated sludge at the pivot point, I've squirted a couple drops of Kroil to see it it will loosen up. While I'm giving that some time to work, I decided to check in here to see if I'm missing a step in the process.

I took the pistol to the range and it became apparent that the springs needed replacing, which is part of the reason for the current dis-assembly.

Any help (or confirmation that I'm doing what I should) would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Ron James]

It should turn to the left, after 8o years of not being removed it may be tight and require a tap from a nylon hammer to start it.

[rcmodel]

I don't think it works that way like a Browning design.

I think the .25 ACP version Ortgies comes apart just like the larger .32 ACP Ortgies.

While holding the take-down button/catch at the left rear of the frame in.
Pull the slide back and lift up on it until it comes off the frame at the rear end.
Then ease it foreward off the barrel.

At that point, the barrel should rotate 90 degrees sideways and lift up out of the frame.

Could be wrong though, as I haven't even seen a .25 ACP Ortgies in years.

rc

[Windwalker]

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that I've already removed the slide, firing pin, etc. The only issue remains the barrel. Mr. James, you make a good point. I'm sure it's been decades (possibly never) since the barrel has been removed. I'll give the Kroil a chance to work and then pull out the hammer.
Thanks, to both of you.

[rcmodel]

Oh, I see.
I misunderstood the question.

I thought you meant you still had the slide on and were trying to turn the barrel inside the slide a quarter turn to release it like a Browning/Astra/Colt/etc.

If the slide is off, the penetrating oil should do the trick.
It's just glued in with old dried oil & dirt.

rc

[Windwalker]

If the slide is off, the penetrating oil should do the trick.
It's just glued in with old dried oil & dirt.

That's what I'm hoping. Things can go bad when hammers come into play.

Thanks, again.

[dfariswheel]

Unless you have a really good reason for removing the barrel....don't. There really is no good reason to remove it any way.

The barrels are very closely fitted and removal tends to loosen the fit.
Also, when replacing the barrel you have to be extremely careful to get it perfectly realigned or the slide will wear excessively on one side and the gun will shoot off target.

[Jim K]

Beat me to it, dafariswheel. There is no need to remove the barrel.

Jim

[Windwalker]

Between the penetrating oil and a little help from the rubber mallet, the barrel finally moved. I saw very little crud at the attachment point. It was actually cleaner than I expected. I went ahead and cleaned the attachment area on the frame and barrel, and left a very light coat of thin oil on the parts. The barrel hadn't been cleaned for years, up until I received it. I soaked it in the Kroil and ran the bore brush through it several times, then lots of patches, and finally a very lightly-coated patch with light oil. It looked much better afterward, though slightly pitted in some areas.

Dfariswheel and Jim, you make a very good point. After cleaning the barrel I re-attached it and it was a very tight fit. After re-assembling, the slide ran okay, but it seemed just a little more "sluggish" than it was before I started. I think I'll tear it down again and check the barrel alignment before I take it to the range. I'll check the slide for uneven wear as I go forward.

Once again, I thank everyone for the advice.

[deadeyedan]

I had a similar problem. Mine was about 60 years old. From what I can tell, the barrel had never been removed. It took a few good whacks from a nylon hammer. I soaked it in solvent for about an hour, scrubbed the area where it connects and put a good coat of Mobile 1 oil (my gun oil of choice) and re assembled. Now I can remove it by hand. If it is not lined up perfectly, you'll have trouble getting the slide to move forward when you reinstall it. If you do, check the alignment and adjust. If it slaps forward after the alignment when you get the firing pin hooked in, you got it right.