Novice questions: I have a Garand Tanker that I have never had apart (field stripped) - I know, I know. I bought it years ago and frankly haven't really shot it that much (<100 rnds). I also just purchased an M1A Scout, but haven't received it yet. So, I have been watching Utube videos on field stripping these beasts and the one I saw on the M1A recommended unscrewing the gas plug as the first step, using 'the supplied' wrench. I watched 3 or 4 on the Garand and none of them messed with the gas plug at all. My Tanker has had a rubber butt pad put on the stock and so I don't have access to the little trapdoor stash place in the buttstock (nor do I have any tools that might have come with it originally). Was this just for cleaning stuff? or was there a wrench in there? I was looking for a wrench for it - CMP lists one but is out of stock currently. Do I need to remove the gas plug on the Garand for cleaning? Do I need to for the M1A? thanks for your help.
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March 19, 2010, 08:33 AM
different people will tell you different things. I use the springfield tools to open the gas cylinder and I know from my experience that mine gets pretty dirty and slows down the piston. others will tell you it's not necessarry to clean. either way, don't try to improvise with wrenches or you'll risk damage.
March 19, 2010, 09:52 AM
I think basic field stripping of either rifle will be very similar if your goal is to simply break them down into stock group, barrel/receiver group and trigger group. You simply swing down the trigger guard and remove the trigger assembly and then seperate the stock from the barrel/receiver.
You will need tools to break them down further. With the exception of the castle-nut pliers for the M1A flash hider, common household tools should suffice for most everything else. This is all based on a typical M1 Garand and M1A. I'm not familiar with the specifics of the tanker or scout.
March 19, 2010, 09:53 AM
Novice questions: I have a Garand Tanker that I have never had apart (field stripped) - I know, I know. I bought it years ago and frankly haven't really shot it that much (<:what:
You must live in a rust free environment.
I watched 3 or 4 on the Garand and none of them messed with the gas plug at all.
I take the gas cylinder plug off but leave the gas cylinder on the barrel. Taking the gas cylinder off a Garand or a M1a is bad as it loosens the fit between the barrel and gas cylinder.
I swab inside the gas cylinder of both, to remove powder residue that will attract moisture, which causes rust.
Was this just for cleaning stuff? or was there a wrench in there?
Yes for cleaning stuff, yes for a multi tool that had a slotted end for removing the plug.
I was looking for a wrench for it - CMP lists one but is out of stock currently.
Fulton Armory probably has one.
Do I need to remove the gas plug on the Garand for cleaning? Do I need to for the M1A?
Yes and yes. Find gas cylinder wrenches for both, these are not GI items. You can use a 3/8" wrench to remove the gas cylinder lock on a M1a.
Put Garand and M1a gas cylinder lock screws on with Anti Seize. You can find Anti Seize grease at Auto Stores.
I will bet that your Tanker gas cylinder lock screw is rusted/carborized in place. Most likely it will be difficult to remove. Anti seize will make it a lot easier to remove it next time.
March 21, 2010, 11:50 PM
Thanks for the help. I took the Garand apart today and wiped it down and re-greased; it was pretty dry. the bolt function is much smoother now. I wiped the parts that were exposed via removal of the stock (op rod, barrel and outer part of the gas cylinder) down with solvent and then put some grease on the op rod and wiped everything else down with Clenzoil. I've bid on a kit that has the 'multi-tool', so once I get one I'll clean the gas cylinder. Any of you guys ever use Clenzoil? or know anything about it? thanks again, BBJ45
March 22, 2010, 12:20 AM
Took a picture . . . jus cause. This baby handles so sweet!