S&W 66-2 cylinder issue


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robctwo
April 2, 2010, 02:30 AM
I bought a used 66-2 a few weeks ago. Appeared to be almost new. Put a few .357 through it, and after about 5 or 6 cylinders fired, the cylinder wouldn't close. Took it to the smith. His report was that all looked good, and he "trued" it up.

Took it out today. .357 reloads. Immediately had trouble with one of the slots. Wouldn't let the round seat. Stuck out about 3/16 inch. Same bullet seated fine in other slots. This continued with one or two other slots acting up. I had a brush and bore snake, and cleaned out the slots as I went. Still no joy. The one was tight enough to grab the rounds.

.38 worked fine, so it is something with the .357. I will put a little more crimp on the rounds to see if that helps.

I ran 150 entry level .357 and 300 nice .38 specials through it. Very nice shooter. Just need to get this one kink worked out.

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W.E.G.
April 2, 2010, 02:45 AM
I betcha dollars to donuts you got a fouling ring in the forward area of the chamber from those .38's you were shooting.

This problem usually rears its head when the fired .357 cases won't eject without hammering the ejector rod. I can see the same issue coming up with seating live rounds if the fouling is bad enough and/or the crimp is bulged on the .357 rounds.

The .38's won't be impeded by the fouling.

Oro
April 2, 2010, 03:17 AM
+1 to W.E.G.

If .38s work and .357s don't -that's quiet clear. It's not the ejector or crud under it. It's fouling in the cylinders. Scrub them out until shiny. When you shoot, shoot the .337s before the .38s. If you reload, reload everything in .357 brass (keeping them segregated, of course), and don't put .38 brass through the gun.

It sounds like the previous owner left a nice .38 fouling ring in the cylinders.

robctwo
April 2, 2010, 11:15 AM
Thanks for the replies. If it is a fouling ring I have the answer.

My smith said he cleaned the gun real well, and I had trouble almost immediately with .357 which I was shooting before any .38. I'll give the cylinder slots a better cleaning. I know how to get deposits out.

GRIZ22
April 2, 2010, 11:35 AM
When you shoot, shoot the .337s before the .38s. If you reload, reload everything in .357 brass (keeping them segregated, of course), and don't put .38 brass through the gun.


Better to keep the revolver clean and you can shoot what you want when you want to. You really have to shoot a lot of 38s in a 357 without cleaning. I've been in and taught basic recruit classes where we we put 300+ rounds of lead 38s through a 357 and never saw one that wouldn't still chamber a 357. the guns were cleaned after every class.

So much for those who clean their guns when they stop working.

rscalzo
April 2, 2010, 01:28 PM
The model 66 was the subject of a recall years back over such an issue. S&W might be able to shed some light on it. I carried one on duty for a while but after having that type of problem I swapped it out for a 686. Yet I have a 66-2 in the 2.5 inchverious that operates flawlessly.

W.E.G.
April 2, 2010, 02:26 PM
My smith said he cleaned the gun real well

If a gunsmith ever tells you that he cleaned your gun for you, he's lying if his lips are moving.

robctwo
April 2, 2010, 02:50 PM
lol.

I've looked at the ammo issue as well. Some of the rounds are a little bulged, a quick trip through the Lee fcd helped. Two of the slots are definitely undersized or something. Bullets that stick in them will go into the other slots flawlessly. I have a dremel, but am resisting the urge so far. Maybe a little jeweler's rouge this afternoon.

rcmodel
April 2, 2010, 02:55 PM
Slots = Chambers.

If the ammo doesn't fit the chambers?
Then don't screw with the chambers.

Use different ammo that does fit the chambers.

I would suggest you use a cordless drill, a new .40 cal bronze bore brush, and powder solvent to really clean the chambers.

BTW: Take some scissors or a sharp knife and cut the cord off the Dremel tool before you are tempted to use it on any S&W.

rc

cougar1717
April 2, 2010, 03:08 PM
I've seen the same issue on the model 66. Please don't use a dremel tool. If your problem is a fouling ring, you should be able to look down the cylinder and see the caked on fouling from shooting 38 specials. All that is necessary is to apply some cleaning solvent, give it time to work, and use a bronze brush.

W.E.G.
April 2, 2010, 04:58 PM
Lewis Lead Remover tool

Jim Watson
April 2, 2010, 05:19 PM
A .357 case sized and flared until it is tight entering the chamber will scrape out the fouling ring.

rscalzo
April 2, 2010, 06:44 PM
A .357 case sized and flared until it is tight entering the chamber will scrape out the fouling ring.

That's a clever idea.

GRIZ22
April 2, 2010, 08:04 PM
I've looked at the ammo issue as well. Some of the rounds are a little bulged,

Are these reloads or factory ammo? If it's reloads the cases may not have been sized properly. This doesn't mean you don't have the fouling ring problem but the cause of your problem may be more than one thing. Not unheard of.

ps

BTW: Take some scissors or a sharp knife and cut the cord off the Dremel tool before you are tempted to use it on any S&W.


Good advice for any gun. You should also only use short bursts if you use a drill.

GRIZ22
April 2, 2010, 08:09 PM
Just noticed you said reloads so that may be part of your problem too.

robctwo
April 2, 2010, 09:57 PM
Problem solved. Thanks for all the ideas.

Two chambers were too tight. Cleaned, still too tight. Resized ammo, still too tight. Looked at the dremel. Took my cordless drill and the dowel for dealing with squibs. Wrapped some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper around it. Taped it off on the dowel. Slow speed run in both chambers until even the out of spec rounds fit. They already fit all four other chambers.

Finished it off with the dremel. Buffing piece with some jeweler's rouge. Looked so good I ran it in all chambers. Rounds drop in with a nice thunk, and come out great. Have not ejected any spent cases yet.

Made another 100 158 gr lswc over 4.1 Red Dot.

Got the idea on the sand paper from an article on Ruger Black Hawk chambers needing opened up for better accuracy. All ahead slow and check often seems to work.

I think I know why this gun looked brand new. The cylinder was fouled up so that it wouldn't close after shooting a bit, and two chambers were undersized. It will get thousands of rounds at this point. Not planning on running anything too hot.

I have a couple boxes of factory .38 Special. I don't plan on buying any .357 ever.

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