GP100 problem?


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Quoheleth
April 3, 2010, 10:41 AM
I've got a 4-year old blued 6" GP100. I've lost track of how many rounds have been through it, but it's under 5000. I've only recently started shooting the higher end of magnum loads, but even that is well below max charges of 2400 and AA#9. In other words, I haven't shot the gun loose. I don't slam the cylinder shut, a la Hollywood. I don't use my sixgun to slap bad guys around, a la Dirty Harry.

I noticed a couple months ago that when firing DA or SA, the cylinder will turn smoothly for five of the six chambers. For some reason, it feels like there is just a hint of binding when cocking for that one chamber.

It's chamber-specific. I can spin the cylinder to where that chamber would be the first to be shot, or the last to be shot. I know which cylinder it is. But, I cannot see anything that's leading me toward identifying what the problem is.

It's not bad - I can still shoot it DA - but it takes noticably more force to squeeze the trigger or to cock the hammer in SA.

I haven't completely torn the gun down. Does that sound like something i should do before anything else?

Q

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Old Fuff
April 3, 2010, 11:43 AM
Unlatch and swing out the cylinder. Then rotate it and see if you feel a tight spot. What sometimes happens is that fouling, or even a piece of copper wire from a cleaning brush will get between the cylinder and the crane barrel it rotates on. Also check and be sure you don't have a lead build-up on the cylinder face and back of the barrel.

If you find nothing it may be time to send it back to Ruger and let them fix the problem.

Quoheleth
April 3, 2010, 02:54 PM
Cylinder spins like a top.

Thinking it was gunk built up either on either the front or rear of the cylinder, I gave it a good scrub and, while I was at it, gave the forcing cone a good scrub with my Lewis Lead Remover.

If you find nothing it may be time to send it back to Ruger and let them fix the problem.

I was afraid someone was going to say that...

I know Ruger is notorious for returning tuned triggers to factory spec. Mine has never been touched but is nicely broken in and smoothed from use. They won't jack with it, will they?

For that matter, any speculation of what this might run, cost-wise?

Q

robhof
April 3, 2010, 03:12 PM
Contact Ruger first, but usually the only cost is shipping and it might be cheaper to ship through an FFL, otherwise you have to ship very expensively. If it's a safety problem; Ruger will send a shipping authorization, meaning they even pay the shipping.

Old Fuff
April 3, 2010, 04:05 PM
They are unlikely to change out any of the lockwork unless:

1. Ohe of the parts is directly related to the problem.

2. A part(s) are obviously causing an unsafe condition.

3. A part(s) have been altered by questionable gunsmithing.

I don't think you have anything to worry about.

We could spend all day trying to diagnose the problem, and still get nowwhere. They can probably find what's wrong in 15 minutes or less, and if an expensive part (say the cylinder for example) has to be replaced it will be on their dime.

One more test: With the cylinder closed, pull the trigger backwards so that the bolt drops just far enough so the cylinder can be turned, and then see if you find a tight spot.

recoiladdict
April 3, 2010, 05:11 PM
I had the same problem as defined in the initial post. Started after I had put about 75 rounds through the gun at the range. Functioned well on all but one cylinder. I stpped shooting, let it cool down fully, examined it thoroughly, nothing was apparent. Gunsmith suggested it could be because of heat and imperfect planing of the ramp the ejector rides on when closing the cylinder back into the gun. Gun has not done anything like that in hundreds of shots since, though. I am thinking it had to do with tolerances being out of whack and heat causing things to expand or deform.

rugerman
April 3, 2010, 05:24 PM
Had the same problem with both a service 6 and a security 6, I cleaned the front of the cylinder (stainless) with a lead remover cloth and the problem went away since yours is blued that might not be a good option since it might hurt the blue job, but I'd clean the front of the cylinder and the forceing cone end of the barrel and see if the problem goes away.

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