Finally sawed off my WASR's muzzle nut


April 11, 2010, 03:38 PM
(I suppose this has been reported many times before but haven't seen a thread on it here.)

I bought my WASR 10/63 about four years ago cheap at a gun show but it was an older one with a welded muzzle nut. Otherwise it looked good and the years have proved it functions properly. I've been quite pleased with this rifle.

The muzzle nut has bugged me since it doesn't do anything to protect the barrel's crown and is no longer required (at the federal level) since the AWB sunsetted in 2004. However once you cut the weld and expose a threaded muzzle, you have increased the federally required 922r parts count for an imported AK from 5 to 6 U.S. made parts. So a muzzle device screwed on must be of US manufacture if you don't already have six or more US made parts to comply with federal law.

Many times I toyed with the idea of replacing the nut with a proper muzzle device but couldn't see any threads and had heard that some AKs don't have a threaded muzzle. I even talked to a gunsmith about doing it but he didn't want to mess with it. And of course there's the old saying, "If it ain't broke..."

Finally, last week I decided to do it myself after inspecting the spot weld closely and determining a hacksaw should do the job. And logic said that Century Arms International would not bother welding on a muzzle nut unless the "evil" threads actually were there. (If it had been more than a spot weld and the threads actually had been bound then this would have turned into a big job.)

So after an overnight soaking of penetrating oil, about 15 minutes of careful hacksaw work cut through the spot weld and I was able to unscrew the nut (left hand threads, turn the opposite way than normal!) Yay, there were threads! And no harm done to the barrel. I cleaned up the threads and that part was done. The penetrating oil really helped with unscrewing the nut and freeing up the spring plunger detent that holds on an unwelded muzzle device.

I already had a AK slant muzzle brake and the RPK style flash hider and decided to go with the flash hider. Both were made by Tapco here in the USA (and are clearly marked as such) so even though by cutting the weld I had increased the legal number of US made parts by one, I was adding a US part so still was complying with federal law. (Fortunately this violates no local laws here either, though it does in a few other states or cities.)

Now came a little snag, both the slant brake and flash hider rattle a bit when screwed on. A very thin washer is needed to correct this or I may just cut another notch on the flash hider for the spring detent. Still thinking about this right now, I expected both of them to be clocked properly to fit snug.

I'm curious how many slant brakes are loose in other AKs, never thought to check that when I've seen them.

One thing that could be disastrous is there are similar muzzle devices for the AK-74 and its smaller bullet. I don't think the thread pattern is the same but I definitely checked to make sure a 7.62 bullet does fit through the RPK flash hider. Snug fit but it does pass through. But that snug diameter does make me want to solve the flash hider's loose fit and rattle which could affect accuracy.

Anyway, thought I'd pass this along in case anyone else is thinking about it. Not a hard thing to do at all if you take your time and ensure that you comply with any laws that apply to you.

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April 11, 2010, 04:01 PM
In my experience most slant brakes are a little loose (hence the addition of the detent), but not severely so. you can add a little blue loctite and it will hold fine without much trouble at all. Note that this will not work well if you plan to fire magazine after magazine to try and smoke you bbl, but for most shooters (like myself) it seems to work well.


April 11, 2010, 05:20 PM
A little loose isn't a real problem. If it bugs you (and it does me) there is a solution.

File the back of the nut or other muzzle device. Go slow and check often. As you take more and more material off the back side (where it touches the FSB) you'll be able to rotate it more and more. When it's done you'll just be able to get it lined up with the plunger and it'll be tight.


April 11, 2010, 06:04 PM
15 minutes of careful hacksaw work...

If you have not a Dremel, sell your cloak and buy one!

April 11, 2010, 06:12 PM
If you have not a Dremel, sell your cloak and buy one!

If I had a nickle for everything I buggered up with a dremel...

I wouldn't be worried about buying ammo for starters!

Anything you can do with a dremel you can do with a file or other hand tools, slower. Sometimes slower is better. BSW

April 11, 2010, 07:30 PM
Did the same thing with my WASR10. Looks way scarier with the slant brake, and it was loose. My job also included straightening the FSB, which was a PITA to say the least. Gun looked better, fired the same, all was good:)

Zach S
April 11, 2010, 07:33 PM
If I had a nickle for everything I buggered up with a dremel...
Not buggering stuff up is an acquired skill.

Thanks to my blue collar career, I haven't buggered anything up with a dremel. Sure buggered a lot of stuff up at work with an assortment of pneumatic grinders though;)

And yes, sometimes slower is better...

April 11, 2010, 07:44 PM
Homer "...the right way, the wrong way and the Max Power way!"
Lisa "Isn't that the wrong way?"
Homer "Only faster!"

Ohio Gun Guy
April 11, 2010, 07:54 PM
My slant break is a little lose also. If using a different style I would make sure to tighten it up.

Remember that the slant muzzle break is off center for a reason. Just adding another notch, would put it out of alignment.

April 11, 2010, 07:57 PM
Don't cut a new notch. Most of the devices are indexed to be in a certain orientation.

Most of these rattle. Most AK owners will tell you it's not a problem leave it alone. they are probably right.

I can't leave things alone, so I got an AR15 peel washer and opened up the inside diameter until it fit. Then I cut a notch for the index pin. I peeled off a layer or two until it fit hand tight with the notch about 11:30. Then I tightened it up with a wrench. No rattle. :)

April 11, 2010, 07:58 PM
Just adding another notch, would put it out of alignment.True, but you don't really need it oriented correctly for semi-automatic fire. I'd keep it original (just to give folks something to question :p), but I don't think it would hurt anything to "straiten it up".


April 11, 2010, 07:58 PM
My slant break is a little lose also. If using a different style I would make sure to tighten it up.

Remember that the slant muzzle break is off center for a reason. Just adding another notch, would put it out of alignment.
Good point! I was thinking of doing that to only the RPK flash hider, it wouldn't work with the slant brake.

As to using the right tool, a hacksaw isn't the best one for the job but I put in a fresh blade with fine teeth and it worked ok on the spot weld. No doubt there are better things to use. You definitely want to just cut on the weld not the barrel!

April 15, 2010, 08:37 PM
I wanted to update this thread instead of leaving it hanging (in case it turns up in someone's search later).

Finally got around to carefully filing the back of the RPK flash hider like BSW suggested. Now it screws on another 1/8 turn and gets tight just as the plunger snaps into the notch. No rattle now.

Thanks for the tip, worked like a charm!

For the slant brake a lot would have to be filed off as it needs to make almost a full rotation so a washer might be better for that. Not going to worry about the brake now, I like the flash hider.

April 15, 2010, 08:57 PM

April 15, 2010, 09:05 PM
Ok, I'll have to drag out the camera tomorrow! :D

BTW, thanks for all the suggestions everyone, they all would have worked!

April 15, 2010, 09:23 PM
Look forward to seeing it. ;)

Uncle Mike
April 15, 2010, 09:32 PM
Slap the ol' Blue, or red if you plan on schmelting your barrel, loc-tite on it and be happy!

April 15, 2010, 09:39 PM
I'm sure Loctite is a good solution but I have a flash hider and muzzle brake so like the idea of swapping them easily.

April 15, 2010, 10:10 PM
the slant brake on my Yugo M70AB2 shakes a bit, but it held on fine during its first range outing. That sounds good enough to me, since most of the time crap that should break usually does on the first time. The loc-tite may be highly unnecessary but if it gives you that piece-o-mind, then go for it. Keep in mind that loc-tite is weakened by heat, and the barrel does get warm...

April 17, 2010, 10:57 AM
Any normal muzzle device will rattle a bit. That is just the nature of the AK. If you want a no rattle, state of the art muzzle device that will not rattle and not only suppress flash but recoil as well try the FSC47 from Primary Weapons Systems. Expensive but simply amazing.

April 18, 2010, 08:15 PM
Hi, new to the forum here and I'd like to try to tap into the knowlege base involved in this thread.

I'm moving to New York state and would like to bring my Romanian AK along but need to make it legal.

I need to address the threaded barrel and the bayonet lug:

1. Can the threaded barrel issue be fixed by simply "JB welding" the stock slanted muzzle break to the threads?

2. Can I simply file down the bayonet lug to render it inoperable?


April 18, 2010, 08:21 PM
Mike, I am not positive, but I believe that you will need to fusion weld a thread protector to the muzzle (don't believe the muzzle device will fly, but not terribly familiar with NY state laws either), and filing down the lug should be fine.

If someone doesn't come along and clarify things, I'd recommend starting a new thread here in Rifle Country.

I think the question you should be asking is: why am I moving to New York? :neener: Oh, bout forgot...welcome to THR! :)

April 18, 2010, 09:01 PM
I know Century filed down the bayonet lug on their WASRs in order to import them as sporing devices during the AWB. After 2004 this wasn't necessary. Same with the barrel thread nut. As far as NY law I'm not sure but suspect filing the lug so a bayonet cannot be fixed to the rifle is adequate. The fixed thread hider will be more complicated, probably has to be a barrel nut and must truly be welded at a certain temperature, more than 500 degrees probably.

April 19, 2010, 12:48 AM
Will also try an original post.

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