[357SIG]

What can I use to get the small spots off the slide and frame? Usually, CLP will wipe it off, but that is not the case here. It's funny how my blued Colt 1911 and my blued Ruger Single Six hasn't rusted, but my ALL STAINLESS SIG 220 does.:mad:

[Tropical Z]

SIGs have been rusting for years-its about time they do SOMETHING about it! Hello-anybody home?

[Ala Dan]

Yep, I'm here!:D

SIG's will rust, IF not properly cared for!:( Stainless
guns of all makes and models can rust as well. Try
a small amount of "Break Free CLP" on a clean, dry
cloth and apply a little elbow grease. This should help!

But if not, I recommend a little dab of SIMICHROME
available as most motorcycle shops and automotive
center's nationwide.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

[mete]

To repeat from my black powder posting -Stainless steel should have a 'passivation' treatment which is usually done with nitric acid. It removes foreign material from the surface and builds up the protective oxide surface layer. When you gring, machine, polish, bead blast with equipment that has been used on carbon steel bits of carbon steel will be stuck on the surface of the SS. This will rust and the rusting will continue into the SS. Apparently the companies either don't know this or have forgotten to do it.

[10mmshooter]

Not even a little bit surprising. My 220 rusted like you wouldn't believe. It was meticulously maintained, and never carried. Maybe got a week in after cleaning, before the oxidation would re-appear. I understand that this is only my personal experience, but as this weapon was purchased new, I feel that the finish of a new Sig is unacceptable, and given the fact that it was also unreliable with JHP ammo... I will never own another one....regardless of what they come up with. Too much money for that type of crap to happen!:fire: :cuss:

[Tamara]

Stainless guns can freckle. Warm saltwater (sweat) will corrode durn near anything, given time. Less likely to happen on well-maintained blued guns, ironically, since folks are more careful about keeping them oiled. I once had it happen to a Smith 4006 of mine and discovered that, if caught at the mild "freckling" stage, a vigorous rub with an isopropyl-soaked q-tip will get it right off.

[N3rday]

Thats right, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will fix anything, even gaping wounds!

I have heard many people who find that the simplest solutions are often the best...just ask around.

And don't ask me, I'm a gun n00b

[WESHOOT2]

OFF! to Robar for their superlative NP3.
No more rust.

[George Hill]

When I carred an HK USP in Virginia, it rusted a couple times... Right around the rear sight. Every couple weeks I'd have to scrub it off and coat it in oil again.

This became a normal maintance thing and I never really saw any rust on it again.

Just gotta learn how to take care of it, because if you can't do that an expensive wonder-finish will disapoint you.

[Kentucky Rifle]

Weirdly, I've noticed some (as far as I can tell) tiny light green spots on my Seecamp's slide. I rubbed some white (finest grit) "Scotch Bright" on the slide and then gave it a swipe with my "Rig-Rag". I think my Seecamp has it happening *slightly again however, I'm just not going to worry about it. It's a tiny jewell of a back up gun that I sometimes carry in an outstanding
RJ Hedley "Front Pocket LE". I think I'll go get it right now. :) Stoked with .32ACP RBCD ammo, I feel pretty good about this little pistol. I really like Seecamps. I like Guardians and P-32's too. I own one of each but I like my Seecamp best. :)

KR

[fastbolt]

Not an uncommon complaint, seemingly, when it comes to SIGs and HKs with stainless components. Some of the better American handgun manufacturers seem to have learned a bit more about using stainless steel than their European counter parts. Of course, they've had a few more decades of experience in which to learn their lessons in this regard, too.;)

Owners of stainless handguns sometimes seem to forget that "stainless" doesn't mean "rust-proof", however, and often unintentionally subject their firearms to abuses, including storage & cleaning conditions, which can cause oxidation. I suspect folks who grew up with blued handguns learned to care for them a bit better. Folks that use various stainless steel formulations in their working knives tend to better understand the limitations of these steels than the average firearm owner, too.

I used to watch some of our guys who carried blued revolvers remove them from their holsters at the end of their shift, carefully wipe them down with a clean & dry towel, check them for any moisture, and then lay them on a towel on the shelf of their locker until their next shift.

I also saw folks leave their revolvers in their leather holsters, even if the weather had been wet. Granted, stainless steel offered more resistance to oxidation when this occurred, but come on ... damp leather & a holstered gun? :rolleyes:

Handguns carried "exposed" to the elements and weather in duty holsters, or carried close to the body in concealment holsters (which offer a bit more protection against temperature changes and condensation when the owner returns inside) can create different conditions which might require different levels of maintenance by people lawfully carrying guns. Even leaving them exposed in gunsafes, depending on the indoor humidity and temperature changes overnight, can cause some oxidation to occur. Moisture contained "under" a protective lubricant can still allow an oxidation "cell" to form and grow.

Since I live in the particular part of the northern CA Bay Area I do, I'm lucky in that I don't have to use a golden rod in my safe, and can even leave some handguns holstered in (dry) leather holsters in the safe without signs of any oxidation forming. I still check them, though ...