Rusting


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franko07
June 14, 2010, 03:44 PM
On both of my carry pistols (lcp)(p239) the mag release and slide lever are showing rust from sweat, I clean and oil 1-2 a week to try to prevent this but it comes back fast. Are there any ways to help this? It won't be a problem for the sig when I get my crossbreed holster but it is currently a problem.

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gofastman
June 14, 2010, 06:35 PM
what kind of oil are you using?
I oil my PF9 with Boesheild or, latley CLP, once a week.
I wipe it down with a dry microfiber rag every night and it has no rust. I pocket carry it dally and sweat quite a bit

Lonestar49
June 14, 2010, 06:42 PM
...

Get some EEZOX, it bonds with metal (in the pours) making any metal to metal contact slippery along with preventing rust..

A little of this stuff goes a looooooooooong ways, so if you get a small or medium spay can, get a small drip can as well and use the cap of the spray can to drip some into too and dip your Q-tips in the solution or spray, quickly, lightly, a cotton T-shirt and wipe on, let sit (over night is great) then wipe just before you holster and head out..

Read:

http://eezox.com/testimonials.html

http://eezox.com/gun-care.html

Stuff really works in all areas it covers



Ls

The Lone Haranguer
June 14, 2010, 06:44 PM
Are these parts not covered by your holster? Or are you sweating through the holster? Whichever it is, you need a better holster. One with a plastic body like your Crossbreed should be an improvement.

hemiram
June 14, 2010, 08:45 PM
franko07- you might be like a friend of mine, his sweat/body oils EAT guns, no matter how much oil he puts on them. His blued ones all have fingerprints rusted into them, and even a couple of his stainless ones do too. His only gun, at least the ones I've seen lately, that doesn't have any rust on it, is his Taurus 809 (SS slide), which so far, is staying clean. But it's not very old, so who knows. I can handle my blued guns, and put them away and they don't seem to have any problems with rust. He handles on of his, wipes it down before putting it away, and if he doesn't cover every spot he's touched on it before closing up the case, it WILL rust. He eats the paint off phone buttons and panels of stereo, etc, and goes through remote controls really fast too. He bought a new TV on Black Friday and the remote's buttons are all rotted out. He bought 2 new ones when he got the TV, so he's all set for a while. He's taking bicarb of soda to try to tame the acid, but he thinks it's a long shot at really doing anything.

franko07
June 14, 2010, 10:27 PM
Are these parts not covered by your holster? Or are you sweating through the holster? Whichever it is, you need a better holster. One with a plastic body like your Crossbreed should be an improvement.
i have been using a galco stow and go and the parts that are rusting are not covered by the holster, matter of fact the slide stop on the sig is partly rusted and the rest of it is covered by the holster, hemiram i dont sweat too much and never have had a problem with rubbing buttons off or anything of the nature but this is just kind of crazy to me.

i have been using hoppes gun oil and have recently switched to wilson combat gun grease and the oil that comes with the kit.

the LCP im using a WRB holster and love it but it doesnt cover the mag release

porterdog
July 1, 2010, 03:19 PM
Classic SIG issue (I have and carried a 228 for several years). Using one of the newer well regarded anti-corrosion treatments (Eezox, CorrosionX) should help, but you have to be diligent about your wipedowns.

I use CorrosionX and the issue ceased.

rcmodel
July 1, 2010, 03:53 PM
See this about that:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

It may fix your problem.

On the otherhand, some folks have toxic sweat that would eat the chrome of a trailer hitch ball in 30 minutes. If you are one of those folks, you have a big problem that only an Electroless nickel finish or something is going to help.

rc

FLAvalanche
July 1, 2010, 04:00 PM
Inox.

It has cured all my rusting problems. And the great thing about them is that because it's a food grade product (lanolin based) you don't have to worry about what the chemicals are doing to YOU.

grndslm
July 2, 2010, 06:11 PM
There's one thumbprint on my blued slide, from the very first day I took it out of the box.

If only I knew blued meant RUSTY... I wouldn't have bought the damn thing.

Steve C
July 3, 2010, 02:53 AM
If only I knew blued meant RUSTY... I wouldn't have bought the damn thing.

Perspiration is very corrosive due to all the salts it contains. You just need to take better care of them. ! to 2 time a week isn't adequate. You should wipe your gun down every night with something that will remove the moisture and replace the rust preventative. One of the silicone impregnated gun rags from Outers works well or a simple oily rag.

Leather holsters absorb the moisture and salts so don't leave the gun in a leather holster overnight. Also a holster change that protects the parts from body contact may be in order.

frankt
July 3, 2010, 11:28 AM
Very good advice Steve C, I have carried blued guns in Georgia, many times with the gun next to skin and a nightly wipe down has prevented any rust.
Blued guns do not rust easily but they will rust, so will stainless, just a little slower.

xxmaa
July 3, 2010, 12:08 PM
+ 10 on the eezox (a lot o folks don't know about it) may be hair spray ? the smell and the price is what I don't like, course I know; if its a deisel or a motorcycle and a firearm;They have to hold us up.But it has a smell like a portapotty or so. I wish they could make it scentless. though it really puts the whoa on dreaded rust.

Gik-tal
July 3, 2010, 12:22 PM
Perspiration is very corrosive and hard to overcome with just a blue finish, the best way to over come that is to have the item coated with a spray on finish like dura-coat or cermaic coat. These will seal the metal and prevent the corrosion.

Averageman
July 4, 2010, 08:43 AM
if you are cheap like me and can't affoard or justify an expensive coating go with the car wax and a nice oily rag.
Car wax seems to fill in the metal pores and helps prevent rust from starting.
I have a rag in a zip lock bag that sits on a shelf by the garage door, wipe it down as I come in the door and wipe them all down once a week.
I think you should definatly look at a new holster though and perhaps removing them from the holster when you store your handguns.
just my opinion..

gdesloge
July 4, 2010, 09:08 AM
"Inox.

It has cured all my rusting problems. And the great thing about them is that because it's a food grade product (lanolin based) you don't have to worry about what the chemicals are doing to YOU. "


Very intriguing product. Does anyone else have experience with this?

Thank you,

gd

Racinbob
July 4, 2010, 11:33 AM
Check out the latest issue of Gun Tests. They did a test on this. FWIW, Boeshield T-9 and Slide-Glide came out on top. In my opinion, just about any of them will work fine if you do your part.

sgt127
July 4, 2010, 11:47 AM
Hmmm....Interesting. I had never heard of Inox as a product. Although Inox is used to indicate steel is stainless in Europe.

http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

6x6pinz
July 4, 2010, 07:48 PM
gave up carrying my blued Walther ppk/s because of rust. I have changed to Sig P230SL's and have had no issues since. I alternate between two identical 230's and neither has any signs now after six months. This AZ heat is hard on the CC pistols regardless of brand since CC option in lighter clothing are limited.

gofastman
July 5, 2010, 03:56 AM
Check out the latest issue of Gun Tests. They did a test on this. FWIW, Boeshield T-9 and Slide-Glide came out on top. In my opinion, just about any of them will work fine if you do your part.
I'm suspicious of this "test"
every time I see one of these rust preventer tests they all claim a different product is the best, sometimes its Eezox, sometimes CLP, sometimes motoroil, and in this case its T-9 :scrutiny:
In the last test I saw on it, T-9 was near the bottom, FWIW.

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