anybody with experience in this area have anything good or bad to say about this kit?
any tips or thoughts?
the reason i'm interested is the FNP-45 tactical / silencerco osprey combo
with light and optic, of course. :neener:
while i wouldn't just walk around all day with the suppressor on in a holster, i would like to design a holster that would let me shoot for a while, then use my hands w/o having to remove it or lay it on the ground or something.
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June 28, 2010, 12:11 AM
While I have not used that exact kit, I have made 5 holsters over the last 3 months with materials purchased from Knifekits.com. Since they were IWB holsters, I can't speak for the clip (I used belt loops). But knifekits ships quickly, often they've upgraded my shipping free of charge. The kydex is free of defects or marks, and it's really easy to work with. Just have a heat gun or toaster oven, and a little patience. The biggest difference in a good holster vs a great one is the finish sanding. Get some 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper and radius all the edges.
The only thing I would add is I bought the hand setter for the rivets. It's just a small anvil and hand setter to flare the rivets, but it works well. Always measure twice and cut once! Good luck.
June 28, 2010, 01:44 PM
I have built a bunch of holsters and magazine carriers out of Kydex. Kleerdex gave me a 4’X4’ X.125” sample that I build quite a few out of 1800 325 3133.
First thing you have to do is make a pattern I used thin cardboard. Next you have to cut the shape out of Kydex. I have found a scroll saw ideal for this job. Note: Kydex has a grain side and smooth side if you lay it out and cut it backwards you’ll have a left handed “blank“ instead of a right. I used 250 degree oven temp an a non browning cookie sheet with foil on top of it and never left it in there for more than 2 minutes at a time. Balsa wood helps for some forms like the, Glock 34 with light, holster I built to take up dead space so the pistol draws smoothly. I also used ¼” aluminum bar stock that I milled to go over the front sight and into the rear this along with a ½ aluminum channel were used to form the channel for the front sight (first step and it remained in place until the end so the channel is not destorted and it helps line up the two sides). Wood T nuts hold everything together and I used fuel line between the flaps for adjustment rubbers. I also built little fixtures to make the Z bends in the holders so they don’t slip off the belt. A heat gun is invaluable for the final touch up work. I leave the “blank” a bit over sized until finished and sand both sides at the same time with a belt sander when finished so everything looks even.
Leather gloves are a good plan and have fun if you mess up forming just chunk it back in the oven until it’s flat again.