[Peter M. Eick]

I was out blasting with the Walker today and got off 96 shots before the cylinder got to hard to turn. That is much better then I have done before and was using Crisco for the lube on the arbor. Crisco works up until the gun heats up and then it leaks off.

Anyone have a good solution? I am trying to avoid hydrocarbon based greases but I think that is the next step.

[Allison]

I've been using white lithium grease with success on arbors. It stays where it's
put, doesn't blow away and you can shoot all day. This is on .36 cal. guns. Don't
know about a Walker.

[pohill]

I use the vegetable spray PAM. It might take awhile to find out what flavor your Walker likes, though.

[blackpowder bob]

I like to use TC Super Lube. Also use it on the nipples. Doesn't break down under the heat. A tube will last for a long time.

[Peter M. Eick]

Thanks. I will try all three.

[blackpowder bob]

I like to use TC Super Lube. Also use it on the nipples. Doesn't break down under the heat. A tube will last for a long time.

[junkman_01]

We get it already, blackpowder bob. :neener:

[BCRider]

Time to haul out my own discovery. Canola oil. It seems to last fairly well and best of all when it does gum up a drop of oil on the arbor and give 'r a spin while in half cock and it seems to dissovle the fouling and free things up nicely. And it washes away in hot soapy water easily as well. Or sluices away at need with a few spritzs of Windex.

[Hellgate]

I VEHEMENTLY disagree with BC Rider: I use OLIVE OIL! ;>) Works the same way. 1 drop from a little plastic squeeze bottle on any of my guns and they're freed up and good to go (especially my Uberti Remingtons).

[Fingers McGee]

I use Bore Butter on all my Colt style C&Bs. It keeps the cylinders free spinning after 10-12 CAS stages with no problems.

FM

[Pulp]

Like Fingers, I'm a believer in Bore Butter. Although I admit all of the above recipes work well also.

[GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL]

I agree with Allison here. I smear a little White Lithium Grease on mine (Colt Uberti Pocket .31/Uberti Colt Walker) and have never had a problem. Of course I am not out shooting as much as you seem to..Years ago when I was practicing one hell of a lot with the Walker every day to try and learn how to hit with it I did shoot a right smart and it got a little hot but I experienced no problems. White Lithium Grease is a real good product and you can pretty well depend on it to hold up well under a lot of heat and friction....(all things being equal)....

[Gaucho Gringo]

When the original black powder revolvers were produced the oil of choice was whale oil. Although not politically correct nowadays, it is a natural oil. Most fine clock and machinery oils were made from it. If you can find an old clock shop that has closed you might be able to find some. The last company to market it was Nye Lubricants which stopped selling it in 1979.

[GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL]

Gaucho Gringo, that little 16 guage Western Field you'vd got listed there is a fine little rabbit gun. (guess you already know that)....Wished I had some whale oil. Believe it or not I remember it from my Grandpa and Daddy using it....

[Maj Dad]

Hellgate has a point - it would be reasonable to presume preference for olive oil by the Ubertis and other Italians... :rolleyes: On the other hand, you might try one of the SFL series of synthetic lubes from Lubriplate. I use the SFL-1 and it is one of the best I've found. SFL-0 is slightly less viscous, and both are available in 14 oz cans. Not cheap at ~$22 last time I bought it, but it should last long enough to grease the casters on my catafalque... ;)

[Hellgate]

I second the suggestion of Gentleman of the Charcoal: I actually us automotive grease (white lithium, AMS/oil synthetic grease, AMSOIL racing grease and rotgut $2/lb bearing grease) on all my cylinder pins/arbors. I also use them as an over the ball grease applied with an irrigation syringe. They work and they stay the same consistency regardless of the temperature and thus "syringe" well.

I use the olive oil during CAS matches when the cylinder starts to get a little gummy and a single strategically placed drop of oil from a small plastic squeeze bottle frees things up for a couple more stages.

[AbitNutz]

I use gray or bronze colored anti-seize on the cylinder pin and on the nipple threads. I'm very happy with it. Just be careful with it. It seems to multiply like the national debt ending up in impossible places. You put dot of this stuff on Osama Bin Laden and you could track him all the way to his cave...

[Hellgate]

I only use the anti-seize grease on the nipples and virtually never take them out afterwards. It is real messy stuff.

[Oyeboten]

Michigan Bearing Plate?

( Used to be used when assembling internal combustion Engines...I have even heard stories of Engines being run with no Oil in the Sump, and, only on the thin film of MBP smeared on to various moving parts during assembly...)

Other Engine Assembly Lubes similarly...might be good.

[Skinny 1950]

I work in the brake business and there are two types of anti-seize, nickel and copper they are used when calipers are rebuilt mainly on bleeder screws. I only wish the OEM had used it on the original parts as broken off bleeders are far to common. Either is better than nothing but the nickel is favored now for brakes.