According to the above, you have to remove the extractor before the ejector can come out. Using a combo tool really helps with this since it will push the ejector in while pushing out on the extractor.
July 13, 2010, 10:41 PM
July 13, 2010, 11:06 PM
Ok no tool but I think I can do that with a quarter and bullet tip. I'm done for tonight will try tomorrow
the garand is a "field grade" hra. The wood is very rough but the metal looks good aside from almost all the finish being gone foward of the front handguard.
The reason I ripped the gun apart is the safety felt gritty. Sure enough the was a funky brown oily residue all over the insides. Got everything cleaned up but the bolt obviusly. Do you think I even need to bother with it?
July 14, 2010, 01:10 AM
Do you think I even need to bother with it?
Yes, think of it this way. If the rest of the action was dirty, then the bolt got dirty too.
July 14, 2010, 01:23 AM
Unlike a Model 70, a Garand bolt doesn't field strip easily without some tools.
I'd pony up and get the bolt disassembly tool. You're going to want to periodically strip the thing to clean the firing pin. The ejector spring may break, and then you have to strip the bolt. You may want to check headspace, and then you have to strip the bolt...
That's why I gave up and bought one.
It makes it so much easier than using improvised tools to take it apart. What's even more important, it permits you to put it back together again. :)
July 14, 2010, 12:23 PM
You want this little guy:
July 14, 2010, 07:33 PM
The M3-A1 Combination tool or the M10 Cleaning rod Handle/Tool can both be used to disassemble the M1 bolt easily.
THE easiest way is to use the M3-A1 Combination Tool or the M10 Cleaning Rod Handle/Tool while the bolt is in the rifle.
You can also use both tools to disassemble the bolt while it's out of the rifle, but it's easier in.
The USGI Field Manuals on the M1 show the various methods of bolt disassembly and reassembly using the tools.
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