Zundy's Pancake to IWB Conversion Thread


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Zundfolge
July 27, 2010, 01:02 PM
I get asked about this all the time, so I figured I'd post a thread (so I could just give people a link to it instead of explaining over and over again).

I've been carrying daily for the last decade and in that time I have come to the conclusion that the absolute best (for me anyway) holster is the dual clip style holster like the HBE DC Special (http://www.imageseek.com/hbeleather/gallery/iwb_com), UBG Striker (http://www.ubgholsters.com/iwb.htm) or even the ever popular Crossbreed Supertuck (http://www.crossbreedholsters.com/IWB/tabid/56/CategoryID/1/List/0/Level/1/ProductID/1/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName) (someday I'm gonna buy me some Crossbreed (http://www.crossbreedholsters.com/Holsters/IWBInsideWaistBand/tabid/56/List/0/ProductID/9/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName%2cProductName) or CompTac (http://www.comp-tac.com/product_info.php?products_id=81) tuckable clips for my conversion).

In addition to being picky about my gear I'm also extremely cheap (just ask my wife ... who thankfully is as scotch as I). So any time I can make an item pull double duty I'm game to do so.

So the reason I do this foolishness is because:
1) Pancake holsters are often cheaper than IWB holsters.
2) My modified Pancake holster is clearly cheaper than both a Pancake for OWB and a dual clip for IWB. One holster is cheaper than two.


Ok, so here's how its done:

Basically you take a pair of spring clips, drill a hole in the back side (this is where a drill press and some good, hard diamond/carbide bits is a good idea as spring steel is effing hard! ... this last set I did I ended up using a hand drill and drilling a small pilot hole and then using a dremel with a cone shaped grinder attachment to get the hole large enough. Also a piece of wood the thickness of the inside of the clip is nice to keep you from crushing/collapsing the clip).

I got the spring clips here (http://www.highdesertleather.com/id74.html). (hopefully he'll always have them available)

Then you use some Chicago Screws (you can usually get them at leather-work supply stores) and a couple washers (from Ace Hardware or if you're like me you have lots of small spare parts and junk in the garage. Just make sure they aren't too thick).

http://www.macvanpublishing.com/mike/sourdough/IWB-parts.jpg

Note that drilling spring clips is a PITA. Spring steel is real effing hard and if you have access to a drill bit and good, very sharp diamond carbide bits you'll do better. Last time I did this I used a hand drill to drill small pilot holes and then used a cone shaped tool on a Dremmel to open the holes up to the size I needed. Also note that the burr you get on the inside of the clip is actually useful to help keep the inside half of the Chicago screw from turning as easily.

They go together like this:
http://www.macvanpublishing.com/mike/front_back.jpg

One real nice thing about this method is that you end up with an IWB holster that is adjustable for ride height and cant.

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Deltaboy
August 8, 2010, 09:23 AM
Cool I will have to try this soon! It is a good hot day at the kitchen table project!

Vern Humphrey
August 9, 2010, 06:49 PM
I make my own holsters. For an M1911 (and most other concealable handguns) I make a pancake something like you show. By cutting slots in the "wings" I have a very concealable OWB.

I punch holes in the holster as you did, and attach leather belt loops with snaps, using Chicago screws as you did to make it an IWB as well.

I also punch a pair of holes near the toe of the holster. Two strips of Kydex are attached at the toe, again using Chicago screws. The belt loops are attached to the other end of the strips, and voila! a tuckable.

You can easily do this with your holster -- using two strips of Kydex or heavy leather -- and you will have a triple-threat holster.

Another innovation I really like when making a holster is to carry the back leather up, so no part of the gun can touch the body. This protects the body from gouging and digging by the butt of the gun, and with all-steel guns, protects the gun from sweat and body acids.

45Fan
August 9, 2010, 07:03 PM
Carring the leather up the back also helps in re-holstering with an IWB holster. I found that making holsters for my pistols is far cheaper, and easier to get exactly what I am looking for also.

Vern Humphrey
August 9, 2010, 08:33 PM
With guns like the M1911, when you block the holster (I use rubbing alcohol), do it with the safety lock engaged. This will leave a groove or depression where the safety lock lever is, and you sew a bit of leather just touching the bottom of that groove.

This "button" or cam holds the safety positively engaged. Do it right and you can test it by putting the holster on, and shoving an unloaded, but cocked and unlocked gun in. When you pull it out, the gun will be locked -- which shows you how safe this approach is.

Zundfolge
August 10, 2010, 05:32 PM
I had Ray at Lobo Gun Leather make the pancake for my CZ 75 SA like that since it will be carried "cocked and locked"

http://www.macvanpublishing.com/mike/Lobo/Lobo_2.jpg

Deltaboy
August 11, 2010, 12:21 PM
I had Ray at Lobo Gun Leather make the pancake for my CZ 75 SA like that since it will be carried "cocked and locked"

http://www.macvanpublishing.com/mike/Lobo/Lobo_2.jpg
Nice Rig!

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