Transfer bar trouble


July 29, 2010, 12:22 PM
I have a 50th Ann Blackhawk .357 with about 400 rounds through it. Today when I pulled it out and cycled the action the transfer bar hung up under the firing pin. Now I notice the transfer bar flops forward and back when the hammer is held half back. It will hang up 50%+ of the time if it is pointed even the slightest bit down. Sometimes the bar catches and then pops out from behind the pin.

I called Ruger and they said to bend the transfer bar back slightly with a screwdriver:scrutiny:.

And if that doesn't work send it in. I haven't bent it yet. What do you think?

Is there a spring that should be applying some pressure to hold the bar back?

This is a new gun for me and I have yet to take it apart. The supplied diagrams are not specific enough to help.

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July 29, 2010, 01:08 PM
Your base pin (the pin the cylinder revolves on) should be holding it back slightly. Check to see if the basepin is inserted fully and locked in front by the spring loaded screw and nut. If the cylinder is removed and you attempt to cycle the action the transfer bar will not clear the firing pin. I can't believe that Ruger told you to bend it. I doubt that it can be bent. I think they meant to push it back with a screwdriver and seat the base pin. The factory basepins have a tendency to come unlatched and creep forward in recoil. A Belt Mountain base pin will stop this and usually gain a little accuracy if fitted properly to the frame and cylinder. Brownells and Midway carry them or you can buy direct from the manufacturer.

July 29, 2010, 01:26 PM
Drail nailed it! Check your basepin. Sometimes the pin doesn't fully seat and the plunger can also get stuck.

July 29, 2010, 05:34 PM
Thank you both!

I can now sleep well tonight. The base pin was a little forward.

Works fine now.

And yes, Ruger said to use a small screw driver and bend the transfer bar. They said dry firing can cause this problem.

I am glad they were wrong. Bending the bar looks like a good way to weaken it.

Again thank you for the easy fix.

July 29, 2010, 06:27 PM
I am pretty sure that the transfer bar would break before it would bend with a screwdriver. It is a steel investment casting and only held in place by the small stub that fits in the trigger. Trying to bend it would most probably break stuff and/or bend your screwdriver and it wouldn't fix the problem you had anyway. I believe that you were actually told to try to bend it but it really makes me wonder about whoever is answering the phones at Ruger nowadays. If you would like to learn more about your Ruger's revolvers there are some good books out there. The Kuhnhausen manual (not cheap) is very good (and probably more than you want to know). Tearing a Ruger single action apart is not really difficult but it does require a good padded vise to hold the frame, proper fitting screwdrivers and about three hands to line up and reassemble the trigger group parts. And some patience. They are really great, well designed guns at prices most folks can afford. Just try to wear one out. I have. I don't think you can. If your base pin continues to unlock and creep you should really install the Belt Mountain basepin. I use the ones with a small set screw and drill a shallow detent in the underside of the barrel for it to lock into. It won't move anymore even with HEAVY handloads using HEAVY bullets. Check the spring loaded plunger at the rear on the basepin when you clean the gun and make sure it moves freely. They can get stuck.

July 29, 2010, 06:33 PM
Indeed, the transfer bar is a casting and I don't think I'd be trying to bend it. Glad it worked out and was an easy fix.

November 27, 2010, 11:23 PM
Same problem with my Taurus M85. When pointing down gravity takes it's tole and move the bar into the bottom of the firing pin, locking the gun up. How do I adjust the base pin?

I'm a Glock guy, I just keep these revolver around for my wife or as a back up so excuse my lack of revolver knowledge :)

November 28, 2010, 01:22 AM
I can't believe somebody at Ruger told you to bend the transfer bar. You had a fool there.
As advised, the most common cause of your TB problem in a Ruger SA is the basepin. You may need a stronger latch spring if it keeps doing that.

You have no base pin.
Your Taurus is a double-action revolver.


November 28, 2010, 01:38 AM
That transfer bar is the one part in those Ruger revolvers I feel should be forged/barstock then machined. At least in 44 Magnums. I have two high round count 44 Ruger and on both of them the transfer bar broke. From the repeated pounding, I am sure.

I am sure they won't bend. I tried to "stretch" a hammer long (DA fly) on a Security Six by tapping it with a hammer. It broke, investment cast also. I had to get another.

Red Cent
November 28, 2010, 10:09 AM
Barely radius the edge of the transfer bar that touches the firing pin. You will get rid of that stupid "catch" when you pull the trigger without cocking it. The Bell Mt. pin is good advice.
After breaking two transfer bars in some tricked out Vaqueros, I used the transfer bars to weld up the hammer, put in the half cock, and free spin. Almost like a 3screw.

November 28, 2010, 04:03 PM
What do you mean barely "radius the edge?" The whole transfer bar is pushing into the bottom of the firing pin.

I'm a little confused, nothing seems to be WRONG with the insides of my gun. Is there anything I should be adjusting?

This makes me curious, I want to know how other Taurus revolvers DON'T have the same problem as mine. What is so different about mine?

Red Cent
November 28, 2010, 04:47 PM
Nothing is "wrong" with your gun besides the loose base pin.

November 28, 2010, 05:05 PM
I thought DPris just said I don't have a base pin?

Anywho, does anyone know how to fix or adjust the base pin?

November 28, 2010, 05:51 PM
The cylinder base pin is one long removable shaft that the cylinder rotates around IN A SINGLE-ACTION REVOLVER.
You do not have a single-action revolver, you do not have a cylinder base pin.
You can't "adjust" a part you don't have, and even in the Rugers it's not "adjusting" the base pin that people are talking about. It's merely making sure it's latched in its correct position.

The base pin slides forward in the frame under the barrel till the cylinder can drop out the right side of the single-action frame. The base pin will also come fully out of the gun, if there's enough room for it to clear the ejector rod at the forward end of its travel.

Your Taurus is a double-action revolver with an entirely different mechanism. It uses a yoke/crane assembly with an ejector rod that the cylinder is retained by and rotates around in its frame.
Your cylinder is captive, in the sense that it swings out to the left and can't be removed from the gun without a screwdriver.
The Ruger Blackhawk cylinder is not captive, in the sense that it can be removed without a screwdriver.

The Blackhawk's transfer bar is held to the rear to clear it from jamming against the firing pin on its way up as the hammer's cocked by a small spring-loaded plunger in the rear end of the base pin. Occasionally (actually not so occasionally :) ) the base pin will jump the latch because of either poor tolerancing or a weak latch spring and begin to travel forward under recoil. As it does, it eventually reaches the point where the plunger in the end of the pin is too far forward to push hard enough against the transfer bar to keep it away from the bottom of the firing pin, and the bar can run into the projecting pin as it raises, if the gun's held level or muzzle down on cocking.

Your Taurus has none of that.
I've fired several of their revolvers, but I've never looked inside one & I can't tell you what normally pushes your transfer bar away from the firing pin.
Whatever it is, it obviously isn't doing its job.

I believe Red is responding to the Blackhawk owner.
There are no aftermarket Belt Mountain parts for your Taurus that I'm aware of.
Radiusing the edge of the bar will not help your situation.
Again- totally different guns & guts.

November 28, 2010, 06:07 PM
:( So it's looking like I have to send it away then. :banghead:

November 28, 2010, 06:11 PM
I'd suggest gunsmith attention.
Probably faster return if you have a qualified local guy, Taurus has a rep for taking their time on repairs.
Shouldn't be anything major.
Good luck with it.

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