Indentify and help with a S&W revolver


August 7, 2010, 11:49 AM
I have been given an old S&W rovolver that needs some love and parts. But I don't know exactaly what it is, so getting the needed pars is imposibble. If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. It is a nickel plated frame with a 4 inch barrel. Stamped 38 S&W special CTG. on barrel. On the bottom of the butt is the letter C then a little farther across it is 432427. The only other numbers ect besides the trade mark is there is a Q stamped up under the cylinder anvil thing. Any info would be great. I need to get the Cylinder rod and spring and bushings for it. Thanks in advance

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August 7, 2010, 02:23 PM
This sticky-thread is useful, helped date a couple of mine,,,,,,,

and welcome to the forum !!!

August 7, 2010, 03:03 PM
I have looked at the stickys and have learned a little.. i think it is a 1960 k frame.. but not totally sure.. i guess what i need is to confirm what it is so i can figure out the parts.. The pin that goes through the middle of the cylinder is somewhat bent or something.. is freezes up. and the little spring on that rod looks to be shortened and or cut.. My problem is i know there are parts that interchange with this gun/frame but without knowing exactally what i have it makes it real hard..

WNC Seabee
August 7, 2010, 04:42 PM
Pictures would help.

If you swing open the cylinder, are there numbers stamped to the frame under the cylinder yoke?

August 7, 2010, 04:53 PM
There is nothing under the yolk except the letter Q here are some photos

August 7, 2010, 04:53 PM
C 432427 on the butt is the serial number.
Whatever is stamped inside the crane cut is meaningless assembly numbers unless it is the same number as on the butt. It may however say something like Model 10-1, Model 11, etc.
That is what it is.

Yours would date to 1960.

Parts list:


August 8, 2010, 04:12 PM
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's a S&W M64.

August 8, 2010, 04:42 PM
The missing and buggered sideplate screws make me fear what might be in there (or not in there)

While there might be an interesting story or sentimental value, you might find that it is cheaper to buy another rather than fixing that one.

That said, I rarely try to talk anyone out of restoring a Smith from the good old days. And that girl surely needs some love.

August 8, 2010, 07:39 PM
The M64 started around 1970. His serial number puts this gun at 1960 and it looks to be a nickel 4 screw M10. Kind of funny that it's not marked M10 since the model markings started in 1957 but S&W was known for just using what they had.
I hope you get it going again.

August 8, 2010, 08:16 PM
The C makes it a Military & Police, Model 10, Model 11, Model 12 or Model 45 made between 1948 and 1967. The 38 Special caliber stamping eliminates the 11 (38 S&W) and the 45 (22 L.R.). The serial does indicate a 1960 DoM and it should have a model number stamped on it but sometimes it is missing (or incorrect). If it has a steel frame it's a Model 10 (we will assume the model number is missing) and if alloy then it's a 12.

The parts appear to be stripped of finish making it look stainless but it is not. Stated to be plated but I can't tell for sure.

I don't believe it will be economically feasible to assemble this gun into working order. With parts, refinishing and labor you will spend far, far more than if you simply bought a complete gun. One like this can be found for $300 without difficulty and it will cost much more than that to make this one whole. Sorry.

Be aware that if it is a 12 it uses stocks different from other K frames and they can be hard to find.

August 8, 2010, 08:28 PM
I'm going along with SaxonPig on this one. It is a K frame, my favorite of the S&W revolvers. It is probably not feasible to repair it but I'm not a gunsmith either. These were used by LE for a long period of time and there are a lot of them out there.

August 8, 2010, 09:51 PM
arguing with Saxon Pig about old Smiths is just about as dumb as arguing with Old Fuff.

So it is a 10 or a 12

So it is written so it shall be done

August 8, 2010, 10:45 PM
It don't have to be refinished to work. It won't be pretty but it will shoot. The extractor rod probably can be straightened and the spring won't cost much. Even if you have to buy another rod it should not be that much. If you can't find a nickel one put a blued one on it, it's only a shooter.
I don't know what area you are in but there's a guy at all our gun shows that makes a very good living selling old parts like this.

August 8, 2010, 11:57 PM
I keep wishing that someone would give me a project like that one.

It would depend on the condition of the internals but I'd bet I could get it to shooter status for $100 using blued parts even if the lock work is hosed. And it would be much fun doing so :) Good luck with it!

Old Fuff
August 9, 2010, 11:37 AM
Well the Old Fuff says....

"A perfect finish is nice, but a perfect shooter it does not make..."

Numrich Arms ( will have an ejector rod, center rod, and extractor rod collar and spring - if all these parts are necessary, and if other parts aren't necessary. With used Military & Police / Model 10 revolvers in well-used condition selling for $275 and up, I wouldn't write this one off too quickly.

Pont463 would be well advised to go to the Numrich web site, look at the model 10 exploded view drawing to see exactly what parts he needs, and how much they would cost, and then decide what to do. If he should order parts he should be sure to provide the revolver's serial number to insure he gets the right ones.

evan price
August 10, 2010, 04:01 AM
I'm assuming you have the cylinder and crane?

If so, this is a simple project to repair and make shootable.

Looks to me like a nickle-plated M10, 3-screw... About the most generic and well respected S&W out there.

Get grips on eBay for about $5. Numrich has everything else, or a gunshow 'smith.

Good luck!

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