gas checks for .44mag


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claphoto
August 10, 2010, 11:22 PM
I just purchased a box of Hornady gas checks for .44 mag. I have been using LSWC 240 gr. for quite some time. (I have shot about 1500 of them). I always get leading in my revolver and especially in my carbine, and want to eliminate this with gas checks. My question: how do I use them? do they free float in the load, or do I need to secure them to the bullet somehow?

Yes, yes, I know, slow down the load, buy really hard cast bullets, or get jacketed bullets. I want to use what I have, just need to know what to do with the gas checks. I hope I'm not going to learn they are only for casting into your own mold at the time of casting...

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General Tso
August 10, 2010, 11:27 PM
I think you need a cast bullet sizer to install them.

dmazur
August 11, 2010, 12:20 AM
Gas checks are most commonly found in the form of a thin cup or disc made of copper, zinc, aluminum or some suitable alloy such as brass. The bullet that is to be gas checked must be designed for a gas check; there will be a rebated area to allow the cup to fit the base, or a small projection to allow attachment of the check. The check is swaged onto the bullet, covering most or all of the base; the perimeter is the most important area, so some designs (such as Corbin's Base Guard(tm)) use a short cylindrical projection of the bullet base as a rivet to lock the check in place. Once assembled, the bullets are loaded normally. (Emphasis added.)

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_check

ReloaderFred
August 11, 2010, 01:12 AM
Bullets intended for gas checks will have a rebated rim. When the gas check is placed on the rebated base and run through the sizing die, which also applies the lubricant, the gas check is crimped on to the base, where it is held securely in place.

A gas check just placed in the cartridge can cause chamber ringing, meaning that the pressure from the burning gases pushes the check, and the air space between the check and the base of the bullet is highly compressed before the bullet starts to move. If this pressure is high enough, it will force the metal of the chamber outwards at that point, and ring the chamber.

There are ways to make gas checks work on plain base bullets, but if you're a beginning reloader, I wouldn't suggest trying it without understanding all that's involved.

Hope this helps.

Fred

JimKirk
August 11, 2010, 08:07 AM
I hope I'm not going to learn they are only for casting into your own mold at the time of casting...


Sorry to tell you ... only for bullets designed for gas checks ... either purchased or cast.

Not cast into a mold, but applied with a sizer/luber, like a Lyman 4500... after casting the bullet.

Jimmy K

loadedround
August 11, 2010, 09:02 AM
If you can locate cast bullets designed for gas checks(rebated rim), it is possible in some cases to snap them on by hand. Place the gas check base down on a hard surface, center the bullet over the gas check and press down firmly. A small plastic tipped hammer will also help. From my experience with the 44 Mag about 40 years ago. :)

CraigC
August 11, 2010, 12:46 PM
Sometimes the answer to your question is not the answer to your problem. Tell us more about your loads so we can figure out your leading problem. Exactly what bullet and load are you using and in what guns?

Bula
August 11, 2010, 05:26 PM
Oops, i'd try to return them asap--you won't be able to install them on your (probably bevel based) commercially cast bullets. They are designed to be crimped into place using a lube sizer, only for use on bullets designed for gas checks.

rcmodel
August 11, 2010, 05:30 PM
Gas check bullet design:
http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/image?saleitemid=682875

Plain base bullet design:
http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/image?saleitemid=217188

rc

claphoto
August 11, 2010, 06:43 PM
Gentlemen,

Thank you for your responses. The gas checks will be returned, as the bullets I am using are bevel ended, and not rebated.

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