THR Spiller & Burr Club

Ok...so the Walker guys have their club...why can't we have ours?
Here is mine to start it off!

I know some of you guys own S&B's...let's see some pics...don't be shy!!!!!!!!

I picked this up a few years ago, I believe it's a kit gun, no markings of any kind. Good shooter. I'm going to add the CSA marking some day.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/spillerburr01.jpg

Original
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/sb01.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/sb02.jpg

Thank you MCB for posting yours!
Mine is from Navy Arms...circa 1998...according to it's serial number. Only 200 made that year by Pietta.

I've got two, sign me up!

:)
Oh No, I'm on the wagon and trying to hold off on adding anything new. You guys are not helping with this. Great looking weapons.

I have wanted one of these for quite a while, but wary of the "brass frame" nay sayers. Question for you guys...how do they shoot and more importanly, how do they hold up?

I've got two, sign me up!

BHP ya have to show pics to be a bonafide member!!!!!

Hezekiah...these are solid frames as you can see, and they hold up extremely well, as long as you use normal loads, and don't try to make it a "magnum"...otherwise you will batter the recoil shield.
One of the nice features is, the internals from a Pietta Remington will interchange...unfortunatly the cyclinders do not.

I have wanted one of these for quite a while, but wary of the "brass frame" nay sayers. Question for you guys...how do they shoot and more importanly, how do they hold up?

The S&B operates a lot like a Remington. The brass frame is fine as long as you keep the powder charge to reasonable levels. The previous owner of mine used full size charges (25+grs)and there is an light outline of the ratchet in the recoil shield. I have been using a 18-20gr load and I have not seen any increase of the indent on the recoil shield.

Im a confederate reenactor and I want one and will probably buy one eventually. The gun itsself to me is ugly as sin, and yet at the same time has a certain charm about it that says buy me and put me on your belt!

Gambit

After all the talk awhile back about how much you guys loved your S&B's and only one person has responded with pictures??
Are we gonna let the Walker boys make us look bad??

Here are BHP Fan's Spiller & Burr revolvers..........he is now an official member of the club!!!

Don't have one ----- yet. It's near the top of my list of wanna haves.

FM

I bought a DGW Spiller & Burr back in the mid-1970's and it was my first BP revolver. It's been gone these many years.

I have 1. The metal trigger spring broke. Tried to put the new one in. Looked like it would fit right in & work. But no it did not. :-(
It would not catch the hammer when cocked. In the process of trying to bend this lil piece of metal spring closer to the shape of the broken original one. IT SHOT OUT OF MY VICE. Dammed if i no where it landed. Grrrrrrrrr. Almost hit me in the eye.

Husker...
Pietta S&B's can use most of the Pietta Remington parts and the parts kits are under $30 from Cabelas. Ya get a lot of valuable parts for yer money including a new hammer and trigger as well as all the other internals!!!!
(are ya sure ya didn't put the spring in upside-down?)

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Replacement-Pistol-Parts-Kit/731854.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dpietta%2Bparts&Ntt=pietta+parts

Has anyone besides me noticed not all that many S&Bs are made every year and they never seem to get discounted pricing like the others revolvers?

Would love to have one, but I bought three last month in less than a week. And this month I got the Walker so I am not pushing it too much, but there is Christmas coming !!

I didnt put it in up side down. It was a 32nd or so to long from the get go. plus the ark in the spring was bigger. so as i stretched the spring out = gets longer. So I filed & Fiddled & 1 last trip to the vice just to tweak it a lil more. & that sucker bounced off 3 of my shop walls & is in a pill of scrap iron. Lost for ever.

Im no gun smith. & the spring dropped right in. Cyl rotated good . nice lock up. hammer worked just fine all was good. so i put the trigger guard back on screwed every thing down snug. & the cyl would not rotate freely . & if i remember right the hammer would cock but not drop when you pulled the trigger.
Maybe i did put it in up side down. The new spring was way longer & the arch was not close either. I figured the new spring was the problem.

Sign me up ifin I ain't already signed up here please...
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/Are%204%20Sale/SpillerBurr.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/Are%204%20Sale/400300175250.jpg
:what:

Spiller & Burr and Whitney
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m217/pohill/IMG_0173.jpg

Since there was this club I wasn't a member of yet, I had to go out and get one....

Seriously, this showed up unexpectedly yesterday at an auction and followed me home. It's a Palmetto from Richland Arms with no date code stamps. There is a two digit serial number (46) under the loading lever and inside the grip frame and a different 4 digit number (0137) on the cylinder. The Palmetto logo appears only on the cylinder with the number. The Italian proof stamps also appear only on the cylinder. The only markings on the gun itself are on the barrel: "Richland Arms Co" on the top flat, "Black Powder Only" on the left flat and "Cal.36 Black Powder Only" on the right flat.

The finish is typical Palmetto legend: tooling marks everywhere. The grip fit is surprisingly good but the varnish coating is a disaster. The good news is that function appears to be superb. The action is smooth and crisp and lockup occurs when it should with authority. Very strong springs. Have not yet shot it.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/mykealsm/Guns/Spiller%20and%20Burr/0115.jpg

So, sign me up, please!

Mykeal, you are officially signed up and a member in good standing...Welcome!!!!

We must be a very elite club as we only have six members....can't we do any better than this???

Official Members:
Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal

Very nice S&B mykeal, I think that you may have found one of the better Palmetto models. I'll bet that the price was right compared to a new one too!
I think that folks are always buying or selling off some of their guns including their Spiller & Burrs.
Other folks who have posted about having one don't visit very frequently or don't know about this club yet.
But now that Cabela's sells them at a reasonable price, I'm pretty sure that more folks will be buying them in the future and then signing up. :)

http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af11/hut-man/gunbox.jpg

The price was...well, embarrassing.:o I was the only bidder and I only had to bid once. This auction is held quarterly and is guns and shooting gear only. It's a real pleasure to attend; the staff knows guns and I see many of the same people each time, so it's actually gotten to be a bit of a social event. They always have a few bp pieces, mostly good to excellent shape but they will sell anything someone brings so you need to know your stuff and look it over carefully. Once you know who the dealers are just watch them - they stop at wholesale.

cabela's is selling them now $229.95

My dad recently passed down several of his guns that he doesn't use anymore, and one is a S&B by Palmetto in kit form. The receiver needs the casting/ tooling marks filed, and the grips are fit well but need a little shaping & finishing.
My only gripe is with the barrel. It is already blued, but has awful tooling marks on every flat. I think I'll remove the barrel and front sight, clean up the metalwork, and re-blue. Any idea how that front sight comes off?

I guess I can join. Mine came as a kit and it is not finished. Still working on it.

I am really considering ordering one from cabelas soon. If I do I am reserving this spot in the post.

Jason and Campbell we need to see pics of your S&B to be a member. :)

I still have mine with the broken spring :-) I re engineered it. with a coil spring that pushes up on the cylinder lock. anyways it shoots now. & the lock up is good so far.

Here it is. Not-so-nice pic of a not-so-nice example. I hope to clean it up and make it something to be proud of some day though.

Jason977 is now an official member!

Hi, I would like to join the Spiller & Burr club. I bought a used one that was a kit. Tore it down and did a lot of sanding and polishing. When goes back together I will post pictures.
For now here is all apart. I will get them posted tomorrow, having trouble right now.

Nothing wrong with pictures of the parts - in fact, that might be helpful to some folks.

Nothing wrong with pictures of the parts - in fact, that might be helpful to some folks.
Ive moved a ton of scrap metal & still cant find that dam spring

Husker
if your S&B was made by Pietta then Pietta Remington internal parts will fit...check Cabelas for an entire parts kit that even includes the hammer!

Here it is been that way for about a year. Hope to get it done this winter. When I finish range time then I will post photos.



135674

why not just put it together and see how she shoots??

I just got one of these, a Piettta from Cabelas. Looks well made, but unlike the description in the owners manual from Pietta, it does not have safety notches milled in between the cylinder nipples like the Remingtons do. Is this an error or what did the originals have? It also has a 6 and one half inch barrel- is that right, seems short to me?

sounds like it may have a Whitney cylinder installed.I have a Whitney cylinder for a spare.works fine...

I have just received a new S&B from Cabelas. It looks well made. Three questions arrise:
1. There are no safety notches milled into the rear of the cylinder as indicated there should be in the users manual provided by Pietta with the gun. Is this an error or did the originals have this feature?
2. It has a six and one half inch barrel- seems short to me; didn't the originals have 7 and one half inch barrels like the Whitneys?
3. In disassembly, how does one release pressure on the hammer from the main spring in order to remove the hammer and hand?
http://s1185.photobucket.com/albums/z356/BillHansen/

There's a fine picture of an original in post #3 in this thread, thanks to madcratebuilder. No hammer notches in the cylinder. You can scale the barrel length off the cylinder length - I'm sure that's the same as the original.

I can't help with the spring tension on an S&B as I haven't disassembled mine yet. I can say that I typically don't bother to release spring tension when disassembling any other percussion revolvers with the exception of Ruger Old Armies and Walkers. On the Walkers I put the hammer at full cock and tie the spring down to the grip frame with a very stout twine. Then release the hammer.

The main spring should be removed first.

Thanks to Mykeal. Bluehawk- how do you propose I remove the main spring? On the Colts, there is a screw to release the tension- on the S&B???

on the S&B you remove the grips, and as near the bottom of the grip frame as you can, tap the bottom of the spring with a brass or plastic non-marring tack hammer. Getting it back in, requires a pair of pliers and some colorful language.Insert the top of the spring under the hammer first and then grab the bottom end with the pliers. When you have the bottom end over the notch in the frame, tap in back in with the hammer.

On the S&B the mainspring simply slides in and out of the groove in the bottom of the grip frame. Putting the frame in a padded vise you simply tap it out with a hammer and non-marring piece of wood, brass, or aluminum.
Putting it back in, you just compress the top of the spring while sliding the bottom end into it's groove to get it started and tapping it all the way back in.

You must have a very weak spring.

Why would you think that? (It's very strong)

The Frazier International History Museum in Louisville, KY is in the club. Unfortunately, all I had is my cell phone camera.

The spring in my gun has far too much bending load in it to be removed by forcing it sideways out of the slot in the grip frame. And putting it back that way is just not doable, even with a patternmaker's vise and hammers. I just suspect mine is a much stronger spring.

I've had three or four of these over the years [I still have two] and every one of them required pliers and a mallet to re-install the spring.I don't think it's just your gun mykeal, I think it's the design.

Reference the safety notches on the Spiller and Burr originals. I have never had one in my hands so I don’t know and the pictures posted on this site surely do not appear to show notches, but I borrowed a book through interlibrary loan- a real nice service by the way at your local library- “The Confederate Brass-Framed Colt and Whitney” by William A. Albaugh III, 1955, reprinted by Broadfoot, 1993.
In this book the author quotes the “Inspection report on the sample Spiller & Burr Revolver” by COL J. Gorgas, Confederate Chief of Ordnance, Dec. 26 1862. An overall favorable report, however Col Gorgas recommends some changes; one to adopt a “spring and catch like that of Colt’s pistol” for the lever of the rammer. Further he states: “ I would recommend a slot cut in the base of the cylinder between the cones in which that face of the hammer will fit, holding the cylinder at a half revolution and making a safeguard from accidental explosion.” Also “the adoption of the caliber of Colt’s Navy Revolver for the sake of uniformity in ammunition.” Finally the rounding of the muzzle “as is less apt to cut the holster…”
As far as I know, all of these “recommendations” were adopted by Spiller & Burr prior to the contract with the CS government of March, 1863.
Albaugh also gives the specifications of the revolver in part as follows:
Barrel- Octagon…Barrel length 6 and 1/8th inches. End of barrel rounded.
Safety device- Hammer engages a slot between the cones on the cylinder.
Given this information, it seems like the Gorgas recommendations were adopted. I would really like to learn from an original Spiller & Burr owner the barrel length and if it has the safety notches between the “cones” as stated by Albaugh.

I, too, have been eyeballin' a S&B from Cabelas. Does the cylinder remove in the same fashion as the 1858 Remmy, that is, with a sliding cylinder pin? I noticed Cabelas doesn't sell spare cylinders, which is the reason for my question.

Dixie has the spare cylinders.

Sleazy...
The S&B is different in it's breakdown for removing the cylinder. There is a protruding, flat, "switch" on the forward side of the frame which has to be turned 180 degrees to unlock the arbor which is a part of the lever arm and bullet ram. Once unlocked, the lever is dropped down then pulled forward and out. The cylinder can then be removed to the right.

the ''switch'' is like a blocky wingnut.....

This just in ... Cabelas is offering 5-dollar shipping on orders over $150.00. Not sure if it applies to BP guns, but if it does, this is mighty enticing.

The S&B is lookin' better and better!

I'd get two, if I were you!

I'd get two, if I were you!
Shhhh ... my wife is in the next room. She thinks Spiller and Burr is a wine, so maybe I'll tell her we should buy two just in case we have company.

Husher,

Look at my post. I bet that spring is in that photo.

goodluck

I have just fired my new Pietta S&B from Cabelas and it shoots fine- high to POA as most of the C&B revolvers tend to be. I would hold off on the extra cylinder. I have an e-mail response from Pietta in Italy that they are now making and will soon be shipping the more authentic cylinders for the S&B that will have the safety slots between the nipples. Unless of course you don't care about this point.

I have an e-mail response from Pietta in Italy that they are now making and will soon be shipping the more authentic cylinders for the S&B that will have the safety slots between the nipples.

I always wondered about this point. My S&B doesn't have them; I bought it around 1991-92ish .... maybe '93. I've seen pictures of Pietta S&B with and without the safety notches.
If I see one of these new cylinders I will be trying to obtain one or two.

more authentic cylinders for the S&B that will have the safety slots between the nipples.
The originals had hammer safety notches on the cylinders?

Madcratebuilder posted pictures of an original on the first page of this thread that does not have the notches.

I'm confused.

My Palmetto S&B has the notches - I hope nobody assumed it was a Pietta.

The spare I ordered from Dixie didn't have the safety notches, but I have seen picture of originals that did...I wonder if at some point they were left off, as a wartime expedient?

Here's a picture of a Whitney with no safety notches...
http://www.antiquearmsinc.com/images/whitney-navy-percussion-revolver-2/whitney-navy-percussion-revolver-2%20(3).jpg

:cuss:

Now I have a Spiller on the way.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Mine has the notches...made by Pietta and was sold through Navy Arms a few years back.

You won't be sorry with the S&B. The stoutest brasser made, and a nice mid range caliber, too.

Ah, it has arrived. Caught the BBT after a short chase. (frustrating when they have to deliver to the home as opposed to the office) :banghead:

Just got it cleaned up, took a while to get the center pin out. (Some brass shavings were in the way - thank you Pietta - but at least no tooling marks like my .36 Remmie from Pietta had).

Photos will be later on in the day.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

I don't own a Spiller and Burr but I've always liked their looks. Those of you who have one, how much powder do you load in yours? I load down in my other brass framed revolvers but the Spiller and Burr looks rugged enough to handle a little more powder, not full house loads but a little more than 18 grains.

Don

I use 18 to 20 3f Goex and a .375 rb.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb53/DrLaw45/IMG_3073.jpg

Finally got the camera from the wife so I could take a photo and rush it to here.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Official Members: as of 4-9-11
Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal
Jason997
Campbell49T
BillHansen
DrLaw

The guys from the club liked how shiny mine was. Little do they know about that happens when it is shot. :rolleyes:

The Doc is out now. :cool:

By any chance, DrLaw, is that the S&B offered by Cabelas?

it's a beauty, that's for sure.

@Sleazyrider, yes, it is. @ BHP, thanks.

Took it partially apart tonight to see about the internals. Found a lot of tool marks on the bolt stop, so with some careful file work and emery paper, I have most of it smoothed out. Funny thing was that it also smoothed out the action a tad. I still have yet to take down to the hammer, spring and hand to check those out, but I will wait until after I have shot it and will have to clean it out.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Happy birthday to me! I guess my wife picked up on my subtle little hints about S&Bs, that is, having my nose buried in the Colonel Burton's Spiller and Burr Revolver book as well as The Confederate Brass Framed Colt & Whitney book; not to mention the numerous Cabelas catalogs I leave lying around the house. So when I hefted the gift-wrapped box today, I knew it wasn't a power tool or new underwear---it was a Spiller and Burr! :D Saints be praised!

I'll post pics tomorrow, assuming membership is still open.

Sleazy
Membership is always open!!!!!! :)

Welcome aboard! Now post up them pictures so's we can make it official!

Dang. Perhaps I spoke too soon. After staying up quite late last night fondling my S&B, and after sleeping on it all night ... I believe I'll be sending it back.

Please tell me if I'm being to fussy, as I've been accused of this before:

1. The brass frame is somewhat pitted, as if the brass was too hot or too cold when it was being poured. Machining marks were buffed instead of being removed and then buffed.

2. There were no safety notches in the cylinder per Cabelas' description. I'm thinking about buying the appropriate cutter, indexing it in the mill, and cutting one safety notch in the cylinder.

3. It already has cylinder drag marks from the bolt having razor sharp edges.

4. The cylinder pin retaining latch is undersized in length. Somebody installed an incorrectly sized washer under the screw and to "fix" the problem, which only exacerbated it. The problem is that the sides of the frame aren't perfectly parallel and the latch binds when rotated. I can either spot face the frame on the milling machine for parallelity in this area, or make a brass shim on the lathe to install under the screw.

5. The cylinder edges, trigger, muzzle, bolt, et cetera, are replete with razor sharp edges that should be eased and reblued in my estimation.

6. The grips overhang the frame in several areas.

Problem is, I really want an S&B; and if I return it, who's to say the replacement won't be worse? On the other hand, I really don't have the urge to take on another project right now. I'm thinkin' these issues are "the nature of the beast," and I should fix it the way I want it and make it my own.

Decisions, decisions.

That's a tough one.Both my older Navy Arms and my newish Pietta came with safety notches in the cylinder but the spare cylinder I ordered from Dixie did not. It doesn't bother me. both of mine have the washer/cylinder pin problem you mentioned so that might be a design flaw,...what I would do is return this one, and if the next one isn't better, work it over to your specs. looking at originals in books [and one member here has a REAL one] you see that that's about the fit and finish of the is about like that. They were after all, a wartime expedient and that's part of the charm.

Sleazy, I had the same issues you did, I guess. What I did was to take the pistol apart and work on some of the parts to smooth them out.

However, that description of the frame being pitted has me wondering. If it is pitted, it indeed may have been a bad pour, in which case, I would not keep it. I would call Cabelas, tell them what the problem is, and ask to ship it back. They are supposed to have good customer service and should send you another.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Thanks for the dose of reality, fellers. I'll tinker with it as time permits. Although I haven't fired it yet, my S&B is here to stay:

http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq315/Magnageek/IMG_1745.jpg

why are they not being supplied with safety-notched cylinders? this doesn't make any sense. a call to Cabelas might clear this up.
In any event Sleazy, you are now an offical member of the club...Welcome!!!!

I don't know why they aren't being supplied with notches, but it's not just Cabela's, I got one from Dixie the same way.

I like it and from the photos every thing looks fine. Just get to shooting it. The safety notches on originals were only on the later ones anyway, so who cares? A gun is only as safe as the person behind the trigger.
Col.LeMat

Well, the Col. has a point. I've seen pictures of the originals in both configurations, and I only use the spare cylinder at the range, bench shooting where the safety notches are a moot point anyways. If I carry it on the trail, I'll have the cylinder with the notches installed, of course, so I'll have the benifit of it being a six-shooter.

Oh, that one looks good. I don't see what you are seeing for pitting. From the looks of that, it will be just fine.

As for the 'safety' notches, I would not worry about it. Just don't load one when you are carrying and keep the hammer on it. At the range, load 'em all.

Next thing to do, take it apart and check out how rough the sides of the bolt stop are, smooth it out and check that trigger pull. Bet it gets a lot better.

Official Members: as of 4-25-11
Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal
Jason997
Campbell49T
BillHansen
DrLaw
Sleazyrider

The Doc is out now. :cool:

fit and finish on that one are better than either of mine!
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af11/hut-man/SandB.jpg

Where might one find a proper loading lever catch per this Spiller?

http://historical.HA.com/common/search_items.php?Sale_No=6055&Consignor_No=72&type=friend-consignorlive-notice&FC=0

Dixie Gunworks or VTI Gunparts ... some of the Uberti ''Colt'' latch lugs were dove-tailed.

Thanks BHP FAN. From everything I have read in the books on this pistol (this new unknown #977 above link) this seems to be a genuine second model, all matching, Macon assembled from mostly Atlanta made parts.

I posted here in hopes of finding a reference to parts which were salvaged from pistols which are beyond repair, just a screw washer, thumb piece of the cylinder pin, and loading lever catch. This piece of history appears to be 100% authentic, and it would be great to keep it that way.

Dixie actually has some original parts for Civil War guns.Not sure they'd be from S&B's [more likely Colt] but they'd at least be ''period'' replacements. Worth a phone call, anyways.

Keep an eye on this antque gun auction site for parts or a parts gun.
Categories include:

*Civil-War-36-Cal-Percussion-Hand-Guns
*PARTS-Civil-War-and-Earlier-Firearms

http://www.antiqueguns.com/new_auction/summary/

Thank you BHP Fan and arcticap for your referrals to Dixie and antiqueguns.

you are quite welcome, sir.

Sleazy
Your S&B looks fine to me...where is the pitting located??

It's on the top strap just above the cylinder, and really doesn't show up very well in a photograph. Truth be know, it's insignificant, and it's more likely a case of my being anal.

The gun shoots just fine!

Join me up, got mine yesterday. A Dixie kit Spiller&Burr. When shes done will post pics.

Hold on there pardner. You have to show the pictures first.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6714271&postcount=8

OK I see I jumped the gun. Wife will be home in a few days so you guys will get a befor and after picture of the kit gun, After pic may take some time as I busted my pelvis this Suinday.

I would think the 'before' picture of the kit would qualify, yes?

I'll be joining as soon as mine arrives.

A picture of the kit would be fine but it must be in your possesion...not a stock pic from an ad or from somewhere online.

Find the Spiller and Burr!

Nope, not here! :what:

Could it be here?

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=147025&d=1312750066

Found it. That was fun.

147026


Find the Spiller and Burr!

I already found it.

Col,LeMat,

Talk about your apprpriate screen names......

-kBob (too cheap to be a S&B member but always lurking)

Ummm ... is it the one in the middle?

Are I official now?
For extra credit can u spot the Origional LeMats?

12 o'clock and next clockwise?

-kBob

perty good you got two out of three.

What manufacturer used interlocked diamonds as their mark?

What manufacturer used interlocked diamonds as their mark?

Pietta

Thanks that means mine is a Pietta. I'll get a pic up as soon as I can.

Are you sure about that Arcticap? I thought that was one of Dr Davis' unknown manufacturers that he's been trying to track down. Pietta uses an FAP inside a single diamond.

I'm comfortable making the assumption that the double diamonds mark is an early Pietta trademark variation.
Did anyone else make a Spiller & Burr brass frame revolver in 1975?
That's the revolver that is in my photo.
Other Italian makers have made slight alterations to their trademark over the years. So I feel confident believing that mine was indeed a Pietta having double diamonds.
The person that you mentioned may want to have absolute proof before they will believe something for which referenced documentation simply may not be readily available.
However, the Pietta single diamond is close enough to the double diamonds variation to satisfy me.
As well there have been some other known maker's mark variations that include 3 used by ASP (Euroarms) and the 3 used by Pedersoli since 1957.

Davide Pedersoli, one of Italy's oldest manufacturers
has had three logos since 1957. The earliest was a diamond
inside a circle. This is rarely seen. This mark was
followed by the image of an anvil with PEDERSOLI
above it in capital letters and the initials DAP inside the
anvil. This again is rarely seen, except on very early models.
The company logo, a lowercase dp within an oval,
has been used for more than 40 years. This logo is often
followed by the DAVIDE PEDERSOLI or PEDERSOLI
name in capital letters. In short, there is no mistaking a
Pedersoli product!

http://www.powderhombre.com/mbpproofmarks.pdf


I thought that was one of Dr Davis' unknown manufacturers that he's been trying to track down. Pietta uses an FAP inside a single diamond.

Who is Dr. Davis? Is he writing a book? Perhaps there isn't any mystical maker to search for but rather the simple resemblance to Pietta's current single diamond maker's mark that should suffice for most practical purposes.

How do you keep the cylinder pin bolt from rotating?

I think you need to show a photo of what part you are talking about

Will as soon as I get some batteries for my camera.

Got me a Spiller & Burr yesterday. Unfired, made in 2002, no box or papers though. Will get a picture of it posted as soon as the camera battery charges up.

I got this Spiller and Burr as a kit back in the early 70's. I was very young and could not keep my hands off of it. As a result, all markings are gone and the front sight has been changed.

I used to take it camping and hunting. Several friends were hooked on Black Powder by this gun.

Got me a Spiller & Burr yesterday. Unfired, made in 2002, no box or papers though. Will get a picture of it posted as soon as the camera battery charges up.

As promised, here's my $160.00 Spiller & Burr

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/fingersmcgee/Miscellaneous040.jpg

I paid an extra $60. for a box and papers. What was I thinking? + mine was a you build it yourself

Fingers, do me a favor and pick six numbers between 1 and 50; I'm gonna go buy a ticket with those numbers.

Nice Spiller and Burr! And a terrific photograph---I like the way the blue sets off the brass frame. Now get a copy of Colonel Burton's Spiller and Burr Revolver (Norton) and/or The Confederate Brass-Framed Colt and Whitney (Albaugh) and immerse yourself in its fascinating history.

Mykeal - 3 - 7 - 10 - 12 - 18 - 27 Good luck. I've been playing them for years with no success.

Sleazy Rider - have both books as well as a few more on Confederate revolvers. That's one of the reasons I've added a Spiller and Burr to my collection. Plus, in order to have a complete collection of Confederate revolvers, one is necessary.

Fingers, the photo stage that you are using here, is this something you made or did you purchase it? I've seen something similar used by a local gunshop for their pictures, but yours looks better.

thanks
OJW

It's a photo studio setup that I got from Cheaper than Dirt. Folds up flat; but opens up to make a box with light difusing panels and the blue background cloth (I've also seen it in gray). Also came with a couple lights; but I just set it up under my desk flourescent lamp

And taken it apart to clean it, I have done some more work on the innards. Once again a mixture of light file work and emery paper (couldn't find my Dremel when I needed it for a real polishing job)

What I have now is a much smoother action than when I got it. The cylinder stop pops out just a little before the cut arrives in place, and that makes for no drag line on the cylinder.

Sure is a fun little gun. :D

The Doc is out now. :cool:

And taken it apart to clean it, I have done some more work on the innards. Once again a mixture of light file work and emery paper (couldn't find my Dremel when I needed it for a real polishing job)

Hey, DrLaw, a quick question: I see a Spiller and Burr takedown guide on Ebay every now and then for ten bucks or so. Is a takedown guide necessary for the average guy to disassemble a S&B? Thanks!

You should get it. Books have knowledge, knowledge is power.

It's funny in a way. I have in my case a S&B that my father got as a kit back in the early 70's. I did the blueing for him, but he assembled it and never shot it. The hand was trimed a might short and the timing was not even there. He died in '84 and I've had that pistol sitting in my case ever since. Think I'll get a new hand and spring and set the timing to specs and go shoot that thing. You guys have got me inspired...thanks

Wade

Sleazy. No, you don't really need it. A Spiller & Burr breaks down pretty easy.

First, turn the key in front of the cylinder until you can pull the cylinder pin out (unlatch the loading lever).

Pull the pin out. Now put the gun on half-cock and rotate the cylinder out to the right.

Put the hammer down.

Unscrew the short screw in front of the trigger guard. Tip the trigger guard up and take it off. (Might help to put the gun back at half-cock).

Unscrew the big screw that holds the trigger and cylinder bolt stop in place. Now take out the spring. Unscrew the two smaller screws on the left side of the frame (as it is with the barrel pointed away from you). Pull out the trigger and the cylinder bolt stop.

Remove the grips. Unscrew the hammer. Let it go up in the frame from the pressure of the spring. Now push the bottom of the spring to the right (or left, which ever is easier, you will put it back the same side). Wiggle the spring out.

Now lower the hammer through the frame. On the left side of the hammer is a small screw holding the hand to the hammer, unscrew it. Now pull the hand out, and be careful not to break the spring attached to it. Now pull the hammer out the TOP of the frame.

You now have the gun effectively stripped for working on it and cleaning the small parts.

You don't really need the book. (Colonel LeMat has been doing some very late April Fool's stuff on these forums lately)

It goes back together in reverse order.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Official Members: as of 10-15-11
Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal
Jason997
Campbell49T
BillHansen
DrLaw
Sleazyrider
Col. LeMat
Fingers McGee
Rommer25

Remember, we need photos for 'membership'. I sure hope I don't see any Anti-aircraft sights on a Spiller & Burr soon, Col. LeMat. :rolleyes::scrutiny::D

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Shucks I was thinking along the lines of maybe a belt feed for the S&B

Thanks for taking the time to respond, DrLaw. I took the liberty of printing your post and stowing it in my Spiller and Burr case for future reference. Thank you!

Hello everyone,

Just thought I'd contribute to this thread, as on Tuesday I plan on picking up a S&B from a local pawn shop for $150 (It's from Cabelas and just like new:))

After checking over the posts here, was noticing someone was having problems with the little spring that's under the trigger guard. This will be the first C&B revolver I've had in years. I used to own mostly Remingtons, but with nearly every one I had, that spring would break. I never had that problem with Colts... only Remingtons. I noticed the S&B has the three screws, as opposed to Remington's two screws, so was assuming, that a S&B would have the close to identical parts of a Colt. I don't like the way Colt is designed, but neither do I want to have the same problems I did with Remington's breaking springs, as I did before. But after reading the posts of the person who had problems with the spring, it appears S&B has the same problem.

Anyway, the first thing I do when I get this home, is remove the trigger guard, to see if the spring looks like a Colt or Remington spring.

Don

Still working on the belt feed. I have the flash hider muzzle brake down pat. Should I go for full auto?

Attention S&B Fans: There's one listed on Armslist.com for $110.00. If I didn't just purchase a backhoe---my wife is still a bit miffed---I'd buy it myself! Go get it!

I'll never understand why wives are ALWAYS miffed when we buy something! They always get what they want. I'm married 42 years and I still haven't figured it out. :banghead:

Well I got my S&B from the pawnshop today. It cost me $153 (10% off $170). It's in pretty good shape. It looks like someone put gloss varnish on the grips, but I'll fix that. There's a Cabelas in town, and maybe tomorrow will go over there and pick up a holster for it.

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9938/sb22.jpg

Sure would like to know how you make out finding a holster, VikingDon---be sure to keep us posted. I don't have a Cabela's near me or I'd do the same.

Actually, I should pick up a lot of stuff at the Cabelas store real soon, as they're discontinuing their entire BP line, because this is the only state in the union, that doesn't have a muzzleloading season ( http://namlhunt.blogspot.com/2009/09/montana-ignores-popularity-of.html ). Of all the states to lack anything hunting & shooting :-S

Members as of 11-2-11

Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal
Jason997
Campbell49T
BillHansen
DrLaw
Sleazyrider
Col. LeMat
Fingers McGee
Rommer25
VikingDon

A growing list.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Although i dont personally own one, i thought your club should include at least one decendent.
Carl Spiller

Although i dont personally own one, i thought your club should include at least one decendent.
Carl Spiller
If I'm not being too personal, how are you related to Edward Spiller?

After taking my S&B apart, I've found that it is the best of both worlds (Colt & Remington).

As I mentioned in my first post, I had problems with the Remington's cylinder stop/trigger spring always breaking on me, and thought maybe because the S&B having the 3-hole screw design like the Colt (which I never had a spring breaking problem with), it would be designed like the Colt.

The cylinder stop on the S&B is interchangeable with the Colt.

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9364/coltsb.jpg

Here is the cylinder stop of the Remington:

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/908/remoo.jpg

Now I think I see that it was a design flaw of the Remington, that caused the spring breakage problem. The spring would always break, where it contacted the cylinder stop. On the Rem, the stop is fastened with the same screw, that is used for the trigger. As the screw center on the Rem stop is farther from the stop lug, then it is in the Colt (& S&B), when cocking a Rem, the cylinder stop would move further, (causing more bending and stress on the spring), then on the Colts & S&B.

Interesting, the S&B has the cylinder stop interchangeable with the Colt, but other parts, like the hand & spring, interchangeable with the Rem.

So I guess the S&B used the best technologies of both Colt & Rem, to produce a superior gun.

PS Just noticed something looking at a photo of the Cabalas Spiller, and pics posted here... mine appears to have about a half inch longer barrel. It has "Cabales" stamped on the top, but seems to have a longer barrel, then the one they now sell. Anyway, I get exactly 7 inches from the cylinder to the end (6 1/8 inches from the frame)... is that the standard length?

As far as I can tell, we are both decendants of william spiller of prince william county virginia who was born around 1684.

Spiller,

For help with family history searches you might contact your local Church of Jesus Christ of Later Day Saints and ask for their family research couselors and when their family research center is open. You might also visit mormon.org for information on using the church's family research materials.

Last week I learned that an ancestor joined a specific Georgia unit during the American Civil War and found information on his son in another state later using the resources of the local LDS Stake.

BTW one of my high school JROTC instructors that had a great influence on me was a Spiller.

-kBob

I'll never understand why wives are ALWAYS miffed when we buy something! They always get what they want. I'm married 42 years and I still haven't figured it out.

LOL. One of the many reasons I have remained single. I can't even get past the second date witgh a female, because it's on the second date that they usually reveal their controlling nature. I have no woman to rule me, and I like it that way. :)

Just finished this kit of a Spiller & Burr I bought from Dixie. Paid to much but wanted something to keep idle hands busy. Had intended to take frame down to glass mirror finish but imperfections in the casting made me go for different look. After fitting and smoothing stocks I opted to leave some character flaws to match frame. Now think I will get some ebony and make some better stocks since I really like the black look. Does this qualify to join the club?

Heck, LeadZinger, your bookshelf alone should qualify you. Anybody who has a copy of Lee's Lieutenants I'd be honored to call my friend.

Nice S&B! Have you fired it yet?

Another descendant of the Spiller and Burr is the Ruger Old Army, which owes at least as much to the S&B [or the Whitney] as it does the Remington or Colt.

Official members as of 12-6-11

Bluehawk
Madcratebuilder
BHP
Smokin Gun
Pohill
Mykeal
Jason997
Campbell49T
BillHansen
DrLaw
Sleazyrider
Col. LeMat
Fingers McGee
Rommer25
VikingDon
Leadzinger

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Unfortunatly the list is incorrect....Rommer25 should be just above Fingers McGee as Rommer posted his picture before Fingers did.
A thanks goes out to Capt Kirk for spotting that mistake.

It just sort of fell on me to be the one posting the 'official list'. I'll correct it next time somebody joins. Sorry about that. The order of the people is just coincidentally from when they joined in the fun of having a Spiller & Burr.

The Doc is out now. :cool:

We could also rearrange it alphabetically or by how many Spiller & Burrs one owns....

BHP, you are going to turn this into work, aren't you! :(

The Doc is out now. :cool:

Disregard.....

Gonna git me one of them there purdy S&B shooting orns purdy soon.

Got the new S&B kit gun out to the range for the first time last week. Very disappointed in the performance. At 50 ft. I got three rounds out of 24 on paper, never mind the target. This thing shoots 12 inches or more to the left but only about 3 inches high. Took some time to figure out POA and a foot to the right of POI makes me uncomfortable. I was practically pointing at the shooter's target on my right!

@ LeadZinger: Hmmm... just located a range outside town, and was anxious to shoot mine for the first time, but now a little discouraged. What's your charge, ball size, etc??? As a S&B is designed similar to a Remington, target sights are an option (has anyone tried target sights on a S&B???)

Viking Don, Leadzinger said he built his from a kit. No telling right now if the timing is right (though it should be) or what the real problem is. Go ahead and shoot.

The S&B replica is solid. Use about 15-18 grains FFFG and a .375 pure lead (or as close as you can get to pure) ball and fire away.

BTW, the grip may seem short. Put that little finger under the grip. It was made that way by Colt (and copied by others) to control the recoil

The Doc is out now. :cool:

An Army length grip (1860 Colt Army) controls recoil a lot better than a pinky under the grip. ;)

just keeping this tread alive - got my dad's old palmetto , have pics up soon

Well,I can`t join your Spiller & Burr club,cause I don`t have one.But I know a little about `em and I can appreciate the concept behind them. Since the South had little access to the raw materials needed to manufacture a pistol, they had to be a LOT more creative in how they used the materials they had access to.
Definitely a interesting pistol.

This is probably one of the strongest brass framed guns made. I still wouldn't over-charge it, no need to beat up a nice pistola, but it sure seems solid.

Here's mine.
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w285/towboat_er/CameraEffects-7.jpg

Saweet!

Are all those Le Mat's original ?:what:

I'm having a hard time removing and replacing the cylinder. The hand is always in the way, even with the hammer down. Anyone have any tips.

Heer's a video I made yesterday.
http://www.youtube.com/user/towboaterky?feature=mhee

The half cock is supposed to be the position to remove the cylinder on all single action revolvers, if the cylinder isn't removable at that position then there's a problem. That's the position that the hand is most retracted.

Seems to work better putting it in from the left side.

My S&B shoots a nice little group, but way high & a little to the left... anyone got any experience make those original fixed sights a little more accurate??? I was thinking about putting Remington target sights on it.

Mine does pretty well. Just gotta draw a fins bead at 30ft, or it will shoot high.

Gentlemen I apologize for not being here to "moderate" this post but family issues have taken up the majority of my time. I'm going back through all the replies here for the S&B to catch up on what I missed.
Thanks for the responses!!!!
Bluehawk

Count me in here is the picture of my Spiller & Burr, I just recently found the serial # on the base of the grip it's Bxxxx with a 4 digit number. the arm has been reblued and I believe they removed the proof marks of the weapon, I do have a fellow active police detective that may be able to bring up the proof marks. (carbon something or other). Any way count me in, I bought it at a pawn shop about 5-6 years ago for $100.00, and it came with 100 balls, and a tin of caps. Thought at first I got ripped off until I shot that puppy, man it's accurate. Sorry fellas and gals, I can't get the thing to show my pics, it says they've allready been displayed on "Need advice on first black powder revovers, have my eye on a uberti 1861 navy". I don't understand this function.

I'm interested in this pistol now that I've read a bit about it.

I found a couple of pictures, out of many, that show safety notches along the cylinder like the Remington's. Since there were so few I'm guessing either someone added them or it was some version not made any longer as I can't seem to find any current offerings.

Is Pietta the only current maker of these repro's?

I believe the cylinder safety notches are a feature of the Palmetto replica only. Palmetto has been out of business for a few years; Pietta is the only current manufacturer that I'm aware of. With the exception of the unusual nipple opening relief cuts the Pietta version is, for Pietta, remarkably faithful to the original.

With the exception of the unusual nipple opening relief cuts the Pietta version is, for Pietta, remarkably faithful to the original.

Well, not to my eye. The hammer is too low, the triggerguard too large, and the grip has less shoulder. But, as you say, "for Pietta," it's not bad.

don't those brass frames stretch?

To post pics that say have already been posted, several things may be happening...it's possible someone else has pics with the same file name or they have been posted elsewhere. What I do when that happens is simply add a number after the file name...ie: S&B pistol01...that usually works!

My Spiller & Burr is made by Pietta (says so right on the barrel)...an early Navy Arms purchase...and it has the safety slots in the cylinder.

The brass frame of the S&B keeps it from stretching since it has a top strap!!

Hope this helps...
Hawk

oh...fair enough...i thought that might be the case. The remmies are the same way right

Got this a few months ago, just now getting around to posting.

http://i49.tinypic.com/28klsf9.jpg

I almost forgot...
To raise obliterated serial numbers...on a steel frame.. simply put a little vinegar over where the numbers should be and they might "magically" appear! I don't know if it would work on brass or what effect it might have on brass...you may want to try by putting a few small drops on an inconspicuous area first.
(I was taught that as a quick field test in the police academy)

Welcome to the club Berkley!!!!! :)

Snake...
yes the Remingtons are the same...just don't overload them as it can cause the cylinder to make impressions into the recoil shield and not a good idea to try and convert them with cartridge loading systems!!!! :what:

I think i'll stick to a steel framed remmy the spiller and burr is on my list though

I posted these before, but just want to show off...

http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af11/hut-man/gunbox.jpg

Thanks for the eye candy.

Here is mine.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w285/towboat_er/014.jpg

nice!