1907 Sling How To

Found these how to guides on the installation and use of the M1907 sling on the internet. Thought that there might be others that are interested as well:

http://www.turnersling.com/faq_how_attach.html

http://www.turnersling.com/faq_how_use.html

yep. and the US AMU has some good instructional material in the coaching section of odcmp website too

I have a question - why is that some say to do it one way - ie "the Army way", and others say to basically reverse it? I think Ray Vin does it "the other way". I've wondered about that, and haven't seen it answered.

OP - sorry to hijack.

Here is a slightly different configuration that a lot use for highpower.

http://www.ray-vin.com/tech/slinghelp/slinghelp.htm

I think the biggest thing that helped me is to assemble your sling from pieces. I never understood the maze of loops and twists of the leather sling until I put it together from scratch myself.

Tim,

The "Army Way" of sling installation facilitates a shoulder carry, the Vin ("Other Way") is not so easy.

Why does he do it that way? Do you get less pulse with that method?

I don't know if its less pulse, but if I had to venture a guess I would say with both keepers right down on top of each other it gets tighter and stays put better.

not sure exactly what the "army way" is, but i do everything as shown in the vin link above EXCEPT i don't have the keepers together.

Here's a pic of the sling on the gun in a parade position
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8978/nma.jpg

I don't have a pic of it in a shooting position, but basically, the lower keeper is where it is in Vin's pic. The upper keeper goes around ALL THREE strips of leather to keep the center one from flopping about. You may notice on your sling that one keeper is larger than the other; one is big enough to fit 2 pieces of leather through, and one is big enough to fit 3 pieces of leather through.

now, if you get a turner sling... you may need both keepers to do the job of one, and they may be the same size. i upgraded years ago and don't really remember if they were the same

ok i just went and took a pic. this is how the keepers should look.

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/9391/sling.jpg

Here's what I don't understand about the sling with regard to a typical bolt-action rifle:

Most people will tell you that the sling must be tightly slung in order to be effective. But in doing so, it distorts the forestock of my rifle to the extent that the 'floating" barrel is contacting the forestock. It's worse with synthetic stocks. Doesn't this effect accuracy since the stock is no longer floating?

I'd appreciate your perspective on this.

Taliv, here (http://www.thecmp.org/1907slinginstall.htm) is what I call the "Army" way.

http://www.thecmp.org/images/slinginstall7.jpg

The way you and Vin do it, I call the "other" way.

http://www.ray-vin.com/tech/slinghelp/slingparade3.jpg

So what are the pros and cons of each?

Sleazyrider, if your forestock is contacting the barrel, you may have other issues. Mine doesn't do that, and I've never heard of it from anyone I've shot with. Is the receiver attachment loose or worn?


Jeff

Tim, hmm... I think those slings are configured exactly alike. The only difference is one is frogs in (vin) and the other frogs out (army). i.e. the sling is still hooked together and used the same way, it's just sorta upside down. and... the both keepers are on one loop with vin. So my way is really a combination of the two, or a 3rd way, depending on how you look at it, since i go frogs in like vin, but one keeper per loop like army.

:)

one other note that could be useful to some.... you can easily tighten it (make it shorter) to keep it from flopping around, or loosen it (make it longer) to facilitate shoulder carry.

To loosen, at the same time

Grab A and pull to the left
Grab D and pull to the right

To tighten, at the same time
Grab B and pull to the left
Grab C and pull to the right

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/8273/nmasling.jpg

so, instead of stretching it tight and forcing it into the pair of holes right behind the first frog, you can leave it loose, gently put it in the holes right behind the first frog, and then pull B and C as described above and it will pull it tight like you see in the picture

Right, they look like they would have exactly the same function to me, but obviously they are installed differently. I just don't see a point to either difference, other than looks.

I never learned to configure a SR sling the Army or Marine way. I used the no-pulse method. The convenience of being able to attach the sling to my arm on the ready line and then when called to the firing line attach it to the rifle in a few seconds was nice. The pics I found on the net are not very good. If anyone is interested I could dig it out and take a few.

Howard, if it wouldn't be too much trouble, I'd be interested in seeing some pics.

I'd be happy to, Tim. I'll have some tomorrow evening. It isn't better nor worse than any other method, just another option.

Ah, the joys of THR.

Thanks.

I just don't see a point to either difference, other than looks.

to be honest, i tried the frogs outboard way several times and just couldn't make it work at all. i could not get in and out of the sling in less than the 3 minute prep time. (not to say it doesn't work... just that i'm really slow sometimes)

the disadvantage to the frogs inboard method would be scuffing your garand or m14. scuffing the ar15's plastic handguards was a non-issue for me.

That's funny. I was just talking to this old Marine who is the match director for several High Power matches in my area. He was giving me pointers and invited me to one of his matches.

He saw I had my sling done up "the Army way" and showed me how to reverse it. He said it made it a lot easier to reconfigure the sling for the different shooting positions I would be using during the match. Also, tightening and loosening were easier - just pull on the correct part of the loop.

Anyways, I will attend my first match in a couple of weeks so I will pick his brain for more pointers that day.

Taliv,

Can't you also get two keepers down on the arm loop in the Vin (and your) method, while the Army config allows only for a single keeper to be slid down?

John, yes, if I understand what you mean, I believe the second pic in post 11 shows exactly that. i don't know what the purpose of having two keepers on the same loop would be though.

This is the no-pulse method. It should be called the easy method because of how easy it is to get in and out of.

http://www.mindspring.com/~abodom/SRNOPULSE.JPG

Sleazyrider, if your forestock is contacting the barrel, you may have other issues. Mine doesn't do that, and I've never heard of it from anyone I've shot with. Is the receiver attachment loose or worn?


Jeff
Yes, I have two synthetic bolt-action rifles whose forestocks do not touch the barrel, except when the sling pulls the forestock over from side pressure. It is something I never understood, because if the clearance is so little that it passes the "dollar bill" test, that's not a lot of clearance. Seems the forestocks would have to be made of titanium for it not to be affected by lateral pressure. It doesn't seem to effect accuracy, but the rifle will not pass the dollar bill test in a tightly slung position.

sleazy, yeah, some 'free float's are better than others


howard, thanks for sharing that. i have seen people doing the no pulse, but never inspected it closely. didn't really know what they were doing

How does the no pulse work? It would seem like the sling would need to go through two studs to provide support?

I just do it instinctivly (the way it feels\looks right to me) and I look at this and I'm doing it the army way... creepy..:eek:

How does the no pulse work? It would seem like the sling would need to go through two studs to provide support?

It works just like the conventional set-up. The sling is not attached to the butt of the rifle when used the conventional way for sitting or prone.