7.62x54r reload


September 24, 2010, 05:16 PM
What lead core bullet will fit the shells for the 7.62x54r? And what powder should i use?

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September 24, 2010, 05:24 PM
The 54R can take bullets from .308" to .312" depending on how you resize the brass. Unless you're loading for a pre-war Finn you will likely be using any number of .311" bullets. All the major companies make them.

Powder depends on what bullet you load and what velocity you want, but IMR's have worked the best for me overall. IMR 4064 and IMR 4350 are standouts for the heavier bullets.

There's a loadbook available on the 54R with a ton of load data in it for about $6:


September 24, 2010, 05:29 PM
You might ought to buy a reloading manual for questions like that, and others sure to follow.

The Lyman #49 comes highly recommended.
It has a whole chapter on the 7.62x54R.


September 24, 2010, 06:59 PM
I was looking at the Lee Presses. For a beginner what press should i use? I may try the Lee 4-Hole Turret Press with Auto Index. looks good to me. I have the die for 7.62x54r picked out as well? Anything else I need? Thanks for the help so far fellas.

September 24, 2010, 07:11 PM
Just to let you know I have a Mosin Nagant 91/30. I love to shoot this rifle. Very accurate so far.Thats why i need to know how to reload ammo myself. Need to save some money because I am gonna be shooting it as much as possible.

Old Scratch
September 24, 2010, 07:31 PM
.311 diameter Sierra work very well. IMR 4320 is a great high-performance powder in this chambering. I have gotten an instrumental 3000 fps out of an SVT-40 with 150 grain bullets in Norma cases.

September 24, 2010, 08:14 PM
Do you know what cases to use with the .311 Sierra? Just ordered the powder you recommended old scratch.

September 24, 2010, 08:26 PM
You can use any 7.62x54R boxer primed brass, or even the "7.62x53R" brass from Lapua. It's the same thing just a notch shorter, but will still work fine.

What firearm specifically are you loading for? I mean type, arsenal, year, nationality. It makes a significant difference.

Old Scratch
September 24, 2010, 08:43 PM
You won't go wrong with the IMR 4320; I've used Norma cases for over twenty years and have never had a split and only one head separation; they're really tough.

September 24, 2010, 08:51 PM
Cosmoline I am loading for a mosin nagant 91/30.Russian of course. All the bullets i find dont say if they are lead core or steel. I need non-steel cores to shoot at the range I got to.

September 24, 2010, 09:03 PM
Before you buy a press and all the other myriad stuff that goes with reloading, please take the advice given above by others...buy a reloading manual...one that fully explains the process, along with the hints and warnings. You just do not buy equipment and start reloading...you must read and read and read again to learn every step!!!!

September 24, 2010, 09:06 PM
I will take heed to that warning Bluehawk.Thanks. Now i just need a press, brass and bullets. Got the powder and scales coming.just ordered thema few hours ago. :) yay

September 24, 2010, 09:10 PM
Also, I cant find any decent priced brass for the 7.62x54r. And, all the bullets I look at do not say if they are lead or steel core.I need non-steel core.

September 24, 2010, 11:29 PM
You will not be able to reload 7.62x54R for less than buying good surplus ammo. The brass is fairly high still. But if you want to make some very accurate ammo you can't beat it.

September 25, 2010, 06:56 AM
The way I approach it is to buy inexpensive RELOADABLE brass ammunition, fire it for blasting ammo then reload it for accuracy. My reloads have no muzzle flash, are not corrosive and WAY more accurate than the surplus crap that I was trying to limp by on.:) I only have one rifle at present time in this caliber so I neck size with the lee setup. I am getting 1 1/2 inch or less groups with it on a regular basis. Not bad for a shot out barrel. BTW my rifle likes the 311 bullets that I also use to reload my 303 British SMLE.

September 25, 2010, 08:13 AM
They are out of stock right now, but the cheapest 7.62x54R brass you will find is at Graf's:

I like Sierra .312" 180gr softpoints with 4350 powder for jacketed loads.

If you want cheap shooting, the only reloaded ammo that will beat the cost of Surplus is reduced loads using bullets you cast yourself.

You can also buy surplus, then replace the military bullet with a hunting bullet of the same or slightly lighter weight, but you'd do well to reduce the powder charge 10% and work up. Before you do this type of thing, get a reloading manual that features 7.62x54R loads and read it. Make sure the base of the bullet you use is not seated deeper than the military bullet.

September 25, 2010, 09:56 AM
I appreciate all the help fellas. Now I just gotta wait for the supplies I ordered. Also are the bullets you guys stated above non-stell core. That is important.

September 25, 2010, 10:29 AM
Also are the bullets you guys stated above non-stell core. That is important.

If the bullets are lead soft points, they will not be steel core. You will find that only military surplus ammo will have steel core bullets. And then sometimes military bullets will be lead core. It depends on the year of manufacturing, and the company doing it.
It's a matter of educating yourself by doing searches for information.

If you want to learn about milsurp 7.62x54R cartridges, here is a good site with a lot of info.



Steve C
September 25, 2010, 10:53 AM
You will not find any commercial bullet manufactured in the US for reloading that has a steel core. The only time you may run into steel core bullets is if you buy pulled surplus military bullets or foreign military over run bullets.

September 25, 2010, 12:26 PM
Reeds Ammo has Winchester brass (as of last week) @ $46/100.
Blue Star Brass may have Winchester also, for $60/100.

September 26, 2010, 02:40 AM
Thanks alot guys. I appreciate all your help. Gonna read the reloading manual i ordered first. Then start the process. :)

September 26, 2010, 03:30 PM
I have 100 already fired Lellier and Bellot cases. I need to reprimer and reload powder and bullets right. Maybe resize it with the 54R dies?

September 26, 2010, 03:55 PM
As far as a press goes, it you are not going to be a high volumr handgun reloader, I would reccomend a good single stage press. I love my 30 year old Rock Chucker and of my 24 sets of dies, about half are Lee.

September 26, 2010, 03:55 PM
Maybe resize it with the 54R dies?
Best read the manual before you do anything.

Yes, you have to full length size the cases before you can reload them.


September 26, 2010, 04:03 PM
I was lookin at the Lee 4-Hole Turret Press with Auto Index. Looks like a good press for what I want to do. The die set for the 7.62x54R I saw is all I need for the powder loading and primer resetting and removal right? I have the scales to measure with and the powder on the way. Along with a reloading manual.

September 26, 2010, 04:09 PM
For full size rifle calibers like yours, I would suggest the much stronger Cast Classic single stage press.

It will make resizing much easier, and any speed disagvantage would be minimul when loading rifle ammo.

You screw the sizing die in and adjust it once.
You lube & size 50 or 100 or 1,000 cases.
You prime them all.
You fill them with the determined charge of powder shown in the manual and set them in a loading block.
You visually inspect all the charged cases for the correct powder level in each one.
You put bullet seating die in and seat the bullets.

You can't do it any faster, and certainly not as safely with an auto indexing press with less leverage.


September 26, 2010, 04:53 PM
Can you load any brass that holds the .311 caliber bullets i ordered? hard to find brass in-stock for the caliber I need. Just curious.

September 26, 2010, 04:55 PM
you mean the lee classic turret press right rc? Thanks for the help so far bro. Just waiting on my manual so I dont have to bother you guys so much. lol

September 26, 2010, 04:58 PM
Any brass?
Yes, as long as it is Boxer primed 7.62x54R brass.

NO, you can't reload .303 British or 7.62x39 brass with your .311" bullets and shoot it in your 7.62x54R rifle.

But you're joking right??

you mean the lee classic turret press right rc?
No, I mean the Classic Cast single-stage press.


September 26, 2010, 05:05 PM
awwww. looks good! please point out the proper dies I need to do this for the caliber I need. Sry, new to this. I have seen a 3 set die combo on lees sight. Does it have the primer reloader and remover along with the die that reshapes the brass? Too many questions. I know lol

September 26, 2010, 05:27 PM
And will I need a primer cleaner? Saw one on the same site as the press you mentioned for just $3.

ol' scratch
September 26, 2010, 08:01 PM
I was looking at the Lee Presses. For a beginner what press should i use? I may try the Lee 4-Hole Turret Press with Auto Index. looks good to me. I have the die for 7.62x54r picked out as well? Anything else I need? Thanks for the help so far fellas.

I started out with the Lee Single Stage cast press Anniversary set. A great set to get going. I didn't like the feel or the reviews on the 4-hole turret. It also seems to be a weak link putting all the pressure on the indexing part of the press.

If you want to go progressive, check out the Hornady AP press. I just bought one and it is built very well. Also, Hornady is running a promotion right now with 500 free bullets when you buy one of their presses. If you go with one of their die sets, you get 100 free bullets (well you have to pay shipping of course).

ol' scratch
September 26, 2010, 08:07 PM
Just to let you know I have a Mosin Nagant 91/30. I love to shoot this rifle. Very accurate so far.Thats why i need to know how to reload ammo myself. Need to save some money because I am gonna be shooting it as much as possible.

You can get Mosin ammo in some areas for around $4 a box. Don't make the same mistake I did with my Mosin. Most of the military surplus ammo is corrosive. It is fine if you clean it the same day, but if you let it sit it rusts the barrel. I ruined my Mosin that way. It was the first rifle I purchased myself.

EDIT MORE INFORMATION: Make sure you read your manual. Also, sizing rifle cases requires case lube. I like Hornady One shot because it is convient, but any spray lube will do. A little goes a long way.

September 26, 2010, 11:02 PM
Thanks fellas. Can someone point out the right dies I will need to reload the caliber i need? I have looked at this one:


September 27, 2010, 01:27 AM
Is the above die set better or is this one:


September 27, 2010, 02:18 AM
I've loaded several thousand 54R rounds with the Lee set. It works great, but mine is set to resize to .308. I then bell out the mouth to accept larger bullets and carefully fit them with the hand press. It makes for a very tight fit. If you're operating with a different press you may want to order a different resizer decapper rod from Lee.

September 27, 2010, 02:32 AM
You can use the turret press but not the auto indexing portion, the rounds are tall enough to get bound up in the action and wind up getting very stuck. Trust me it is a hard fix lol. But I wouldn't use that press for rifle rounds

September 27, 2010, 09:45 AM
rc above recommended this press. looks good:


September 27, 2010, 09:48 AM
Cosmoline, which lee dies from the two above would you use. Also, do the dies have all I need to reload the brass I have and are going to get? I have 100 lellier and ballor brass already fired once.

September 27, 2010, 09:49 AM
Plus I plan on using this press:


Gadzooks Mike
September 27, 2010, 10:09 AM
THOR5624 Thanks fellas. Can someone point out the right dies I will need to reload the caliber i need? I have looked at this one:

THOR5624 Is the above die set better or is this one:

Actually, it's the same die set sold by a different vendor. You know, maybe rushing into this isn't such a great idea. Not everyone is cut out for reloading. As they say, "haste makes waste" and "don't go off half cocked" also comes to mind. My advice to you, and of course you're free to take it or leave it, is to slow down, get the book first, and read up on the subject.

Whatever you decide, good luck.

September 27, 2010, 10:15 AM
I load for that. I only shoot my 7.62x54r in one Nagant Rifle. So here is what I do:

1. Buy S&B Boxer primed brass cased ammo and fire it in the rifle.
2. Neck size only then clean and tumble.
3. True Case Lengths.
4. Outside Case Turn / Clean & True Primer Pockets / Chamfer Flash Hole / Inside and outside chamfer case mouth.
5. Weigh all brass and sort into lots 1.5 gr
6. Load bullet depth to .020 shy of rifling. (On rifles with unusually long throats I load to max length that will function in magazine).

After all this is done and you shoot it the second time, all you will have to do is Neck Size and reload.

Actually I do this for all my rifles.

September 27, 2010, 10:28 AM
Thanks Mike. I have a manual on reloading 7.62x54R on the way.Just havent gotten it yet.Thats why I have sooo many questions.

September 27, 2010, 10:46 AM
I plann on using sierra .311 for my reloads and 147 grains.

September 27, 2010, 03:12 PM
Now I have been reading that this caliber is what I want instead of the .311 sierra. I am confused:


September 27, 2010, 03:19 PM
Not unless you have a Mossy made in Finland with a .308" bore.

All of the Russian ones will use a .311" or .312" bullet.

To know the exact bore size you have to slug the bore and measure it.

But regardless of that, .311" Sierra or .312" Hornady will be just peachy keen.


September 27, 2010, 03:26 PM
I appreciate it rc. Thanks for all your help so far. Does the die sets from above have the die I need to remove and reset the primer?

September 27, 2010, 03:41 PM
All rifle two-die sets use the sizing die to also remove the spent primer and expand the case neck in the same operation.

The other die seats the bullets in the cases, and can also crimp if desired.

I have a manual on reloading 7.62x54R on the way.Which manual did you order?


September 27, 2010, 05:52 PM
I ordered the one you or Cosmolie told me to:


September 27, 2010, 05:54 PM
This is the set I am going to order. Its a 3 piece:


September 27, 2010, 07:55 PM
rcmodel, would this press be as good as the one you told me about or would I be better off with the sigle stage cast press:


September 27, 2010, 10:04 PM
what die piece resets the new primer?

Tim the student
September 27, 2010, 10:20 PM
Dies don't seat a new primer. You need to do that on your press, or with a hand-held priming tool.

September 28, 2010, 04:45 AM
Thanks Mike. I have a manual on reloading 7.62x54R on the way.Just havent gotten it yet.Thats why I have sooo many questions.
Read the ABCs of Reloading too. You have to learn more than just the mechanics to be safe. You need to understand what causes a rise in pressure: bullet seating depth, headspace, case neck length, crimp, powder burn rate, ect. ect.

You will need calipers and case trimming equipment as well. Mistakes like an overlong neck will blow your gun up. Make sure you get a high quality balance scale like Dillon or RCBS, not a low end digital or a Lee.

September 28, 2010, 06:58 AM
Richard Lee's ''Modern Reloading'' in an EXCELLENT reference. EASY to read, and aimed at the beginner, with plenty of easy to understand photographs of all the steps, and written with safety in mind.

September 28, 2010, 07:50 AM
Where on midayUSA is a hand help priming tool? I know that the sizing die removes the used primer and sizes the neck. But what installs a new primer?

Tim the student
September 28, 2010, 08:55 AM
You use the hand held priming tool to install a new primer, or there is a way to do it with your press.

http://www.rcbs.com/general/videos.aspx - this may help you understand what happens when you reload.


September 28, 2010, 05:25 PM
If anyone lives near this guy they need to help him, Thor you need a mentor. Theres lots of safety precautions that you need to know, theres just too much for you to soak in over one night. Powder is very dangerous, a little too much powder can cause overpressure and damage most likely to you and your firearm. Too little powder can cause problems as well.

select dies, your die set needs to come with a full length resizing die and a bullet seating die.

make sure you are using 7.62x54 brass for only the 7.62x54 rifle. 7.62x54 is a cartridge and like all cartridges they are not universal in different guns such as 30/30 or 30/06 or 300 winchester magnum, this is imperative, your dies only work with one cartridge.

the first step is to resize your once fired brass, you need to adjust your dies in the press as the die instructions say. Next step is lubricate the brass, you need to put a lubricant on it to keep the brass from getting stuck when you resize it. Now put the brass in the shellholder and with your die adjusted properly, you pull the lever on the press. make sure you go all the way down with your press. The die will remove the old primer and size your brass to fit in your rifle again.

There is a separate tool for priming, but all of them insert the primer where the old primer was before.

now you have a Primed case, your next step is the powder process, this is where a mentor would help you a lot and keep you safe. ill let others chime in about the powder charging process.

September 28, 2010, 06:29 PM
I have been reading alot about this. I now figured out when you buy surplus ammo the weight that it says like 180 gr 7.62x54r is the weight of the whole loaded ammo. I thought it has 180 gr of powder in it! I would blow my face off! A mentor would be nice. Anyone live in Fort Worth?

I have everything coming except for the press and primers. Cost alot to get started but it will pay for itself in time. Here is the stuff I have ordered:

September 28, 2010, 06:35 PM






Jeff H
September 28, 2010, 07:36 PM
the weight that it says like 180 gr 7.62x54r is the weight of the whole loaded ammo. I thought it has 180 gr of powder in it!

Errr, nope. neither are right. 180 grains would be referring to the weight of the bullet, not the whole cartridge. I won't say you are the 1st person to make that mistake though. I had an entire discussion with my brother about why some ammo didn't really have 140 grains of powder in it....He couldn't get a grip on the fact that things other than powder were measured in grains.

September 28, 2010, 09:14 PM
Are the steel/ berdan primed cartridges able to take more pressure than newer "brass" used for distance/target shooting? Thanks- the bookmobile will be by soon, then most of my questions will not be necessary.
Also the surplus ammo I am using seems to be very dirty, soap and water works slowly. But I found some TC #13 bore cleaner- it says for black powder/ pyrodex , is this product OK to clean with?

September 28, 2010, 09:54 PM
So, How much powder do I put in my loads? Im sure the manual I ordered will say but I have not gotten it yet.

Tim the student
September 28, 2010, 10:08 PM
Slowhand47 and Thor5624, try this (http://www.reloadbench.com/menu2.html) for some answers. It will have a lot of answers for you.

So, How much powder do I put in my loads? Im sure the manual I ordered will say but I have not gotten it yet.

Yes, the manual will say. The amount you start with will vary with they type powder used. Start at the start weight, and work up. Besides, that should be near the bottom of your list of things to know right now, IMO. Get familiar with terminology and the processes used first. There is a whole boatload of info on THR for you to learn from. There are also other forums that you can learn from.

Lastly, while there is a ton of good info on the web, there is also a ton of bad info. Be leery of what you read, especially when it comes to specific load info.

September 29, 2010, 05:15 AM
One of the easiest ways to learn how to do all this is with a Lee Classic Loader kit...the one where everything is done by hand and with a mallet. It gives a few powder charges that are compatible with the Lee dipper that comes with it. Once ya have learned to load ammo this way then it becomes easier and more clear when you start using a bench mounted press.
No scale or anything else is necessary when using the Classic Loader...just powder, primers, cases and bullets! It's almost foolproof as long as you follow the simple directions and use the powder scoop/dipper that came with it and the powders they say to use!!!!!!


September 29, 2010, 07:59 AM
I just ordered a good caliper. Does anyone know the proper length of a loaded 7.62x54r round. So I know when the bullet is seated right. Dont want to seat it too shallow or too deep.

September 29, 2010, 08:05 AM
There are some very good reloading videos on youtube. Check out a guy called Ammosmith on there.
He does a very good job with instruction. I've been loading since 1986 or so and I even picked up some good information.

September 29, 2010, 10:39 PM
Does anyone know the proper length of a loaded 7.62x54r round. So I know when the bullet is seated right. Dont want to seat it too shallow or too deep.

Every major reloading book will have that info for you...all ya have to do is read it and understand what you are reading!

September 30, 2010, 02:27 AM
THOR, I read your other post on reloading for the x54r. A safe COL is 3". I looked through both my Lyman, Hornady, and Hodgdon manuals and can find no reference for IMR 4320 with a .311" diameter bullet. Sounds like you're going to have to do some experimenting, or the feller that told you he uses that load can give you a "safe" starting load and you work your way up from there. I think you ought to have waited to buy a loading manual before taking word of mouth on a powder and actually researched the manual and decided on an established recommended powder with data.

Now then, the next item is the die set. I think you picked the Lee die set. If that's correct, you may have to buy a different "button". This is the part that gets the neck the correct diameter. It's a long rod with the decapping pin to punch out the old primer. The included one with the Lee die set is for .308". Says on Midway's website... supposedly the .308" is more "popular" in the Mosins which sounds like a load of crap. RCBS uses .311" buttons in their x54r die set. So, what you can do is go on Lee's website, and buy the button for the .303 British. It is part # SE2358 - http://leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/parts.cgi?1272266646.5390=90547 You don't necessarily have to, but forcing the .311" bullet and opening the case mouth/neck 0.003" can be a bit of work.

So, you're probably going to want to do that. Anyway, I'm not sure if you finally got your manual in, but definitely take a good look at it. On your brass, if you can't find any, you're just going to have to settle with your Sellier & Bellot stuff. .311" bullets, primers (CCI 200, Winchester WLP, etc.). Case tumblers are nice, not required, but nice. You're going to want some sizing lube. There are a plethora of them out there, but if you want something cheap and simple... mink oil. That's right, the stuff you put on your hunting boots to waterproof them. Otherwise, Imperial Size Wax by Redding is good stuff. No matter what you use, you're going to want to use some sort of lube or you'll get a stuck case up in the die and it can be a pain in the butt to get out. Do not put lube on the shoulder of the case or it'll get deformed... not a big deal, but when you shoot that round, it will fire form to its original correct shape, but you're working the brass and weakening it. For the press, a simple cast O-frame by Lee is good. I bought one of those SmartReloader cast-iron O-frame presses and I think it's worth every bit of the $30 I spent on it. It does have some slop, but would you expect close tolerance fit and finish for $30? IMR 4350 might have been a better pick on powder. You can get the Lee Auto Prime and buy the individual shell holder specifically for it. It's a handheld priming tool. I bought one and used it a bit but any more, I'm using the Lee Ram Prime tool. It utilizes your reloading press and primes them one at a time manually, but I like that it seats the primer better than having to squeeze that darn handle on the Auto Prime tool.

For case trimming, you can buy a hand lathe type and spend a lot on it, the collets to hold the case, and the pilots... however, I spend a couple dollars for the Lee Case-Length gage deals and like them a lot. You can chuck the holder in a drill, lock your case into it, and then with the gage screwed into the trimmer piece, you just put it in the case mouth and it will stop trimming when the pin on the gage hits the shell holder. The cases must be de-primed before doing this operation. Search for the Lee case length gages on youtube and you can find videos of people using them. So simple and cheap.

I think I've included some information of use to you... you'll read it in your loading manual. Read it and re-read it until you know what's going on.

From MidwayUSA's website on the Lee Pacesetter 7.62x54r 3-die set...

Note from the Manufacturer:
•Lee Precision includes the expander appropriate for a .308 diameter bullet. Nearly everyone that reloads the 7.62x54 /7.62x53 uses the .308 diameter bullet. The availability and selection of .308 bullets are far greater than .311. In military issue ammo they used a .309 to .311 diameter bullet. The smaller expander is included as standard issue as it is usable for .308 as well as .310 diameter bullets if the larger expander was installed it would not be usable with smaller .308 diameter bullets. The limited amount of load data that is available usually is worked up using .308 diameter bullets.

September 30, 2010, 03:08 AM
The smaller expander is included as standard issue ...

Odd that Lee would do that since they included 2 expanders with the 7.62x39mm die set.

September 30, 2010, 03:31 AM
Wow, Juniustaylor That was alot of info there. I really apprciate it. Is this the size die I need for .311:


Also, the manual I got only tells the proper charge for .308. That angers me!

September 30, 2010, 11:53 AM
THOR, that die set in the link you listed is a "bullet sizing die". This is if you cast your own bullets from lead, you would push the bullet itself through that die and it makes it .311" diameter... only if you had cast them at .313 or .312".

You'll need to go to the link I provided in my first reply to you above. It's on Lee's website and you'll have to order it through them.

Bluehawk, I too think it is stupid that Lee doesn't just include both buttons. Shooting that .308" bullet down a .312-.313" barrel isn't going to shoot very good at all. So, I don't know where they got their "mis-information" from.

THOR, what reloading manual did you get? Both Lyman and Hornady manuals cover the .310" - .311" bullets with the .308" bullets also. Let us know which manual you bought.

September 30, 2010, 12:23 PM
The loadbooks manual has a lot of different sections in it. Some are older and cover .308" bullets, others are newer. In the end it doesn't matter much if any. Start with starting loads as usual and work up. Cross check by comparing multiple charts for similar size bullets with the same powder.

However, it looks like you're new to reloading entirely and if that's the case you should probably set 54R aside for a bit and start with .357 Magnum or another much easier cartridge for reloading. 54R is an old metric with a lot of quirks to it, such as the .308" vs. .311" issue. I'd class it as an intermediate skill level job. Once you have a better understanding of the basics it will get a lot easier.

September 30, 2010, 01:28 PM
Sorry Fellas, but this guy scares the bejezzus out of me.:eek::what::(

Someone in Texas needs to help him out before he hurts himself!!

Thor, you need to STOP trying to run and learn how to crawl first.

September 30, 2010, 03:25 PM
Read these
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214----- reloading terms


October 1, 2010, 05:31 PM
Sonier, That load data is for hodgdon, not IMR. I ordered IMR 4320. Thanks for all the help fellas. I will slow down and read the Lyman manual when it arrives.

October 1, 2010, 05:40 PM
Juniustaylor, I just ordered the .303 British button you mentiones. Wher do I put it in the die? It just looks like a long spike that gets wider. How will it reshape my brass? Maybe I put in the place where the .308 sizer is right? Just need to be sure before I try anything. Thanks!

October 1, 2010, 05:55 PM
Sonier, That load data is for hodgdon, not IMR. I ordered IMR 4320.

Hodgdon owns IMR powders too. IMR-4320 can be used, but it's not the best powder for the 7.62x54R.


October 1, 2010, 08:22 PM
What powder do you reccomend? Missed my powder being delivered by 5 minutes :( oh well, I will get it Monday. Need to go to a thrift store to find a decent table for my press. Wish me luck!

October 1, 2010, 09:08 PM
What powder do you recommend?

I'm not going to recommend another powder because as I said, IMR4320 will work, and you said, you have 2 lbs coming.
Just verify in your load manual the start load for IMR4320, using the bullet weight that you have.


October 2, 2010, 08:24 AM
THOR, at the top of your resizing die is a nut. Put a wrench on the die body, and a wrench on the top nut. Loosen it. Now, remove the "pin" the .308 button and just stick your .311 button up inside until it barely sticks above the nut. Retighten. The Lee die set says how to do it. There is no real specific torque, just get it tight.

As a side note... if you do somehow manage to get a case stuck up in the die, loosen that nut and remove it. You'll then use a mallet to whack the button to force the case out. A plastic / rubber hammer would be best to use for this so you don't mushroom the top of the button.

October 2, 2010, 02:45 PM
Thanks for the directions juniustaylor. I appreciate it :)

October 12, 2010, 01:46 AM
I fired my first 20 rounds of my reload. All went well. Only 1 misfire.seated primer too deep I suppose. IMR4320 reduces recoil compared to milsurp I have been firing. Now time to trim and reload after inspecting brass. Thanks fellas for all your help.

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